42149
42149
THE TRAVELERS’
Handbook for China
(INCLUDING HONGKONG)
BY
CARL CROW
With Nine Maps, and Plans and Numerous
Illustrations
TUrd Edition, Revised Thronghoat
<1-. j ■■ • fc— .rt —
W ffi ^ - A
“ONE SEEING IS WORTH
A HUNDRED TELLINGS’*
CARL CROW, SHANQHAI
Oo Salo at tha Ppineipal Offices of Tbos. Cook & Sob ^
TO MY WIFE
Wlien the second edition of this handbook for China
was brought out a few years ago every possible effort was
made to bring the book up to date and to make the informa-
tion in it accurate to the last degree. Every section of the
book was read and revised by some one with special know-
ledge on the subject involved and often several took part in
the revision. Among the many well known authorities on
China who gave the author their assistance were Dr. John
K. Hykcs, Mr. Thomas Torrance, Prof. N. Gist Gee, Dr.
G. H. Bcndfield, Mrs. Donald Christie, Prof. W. M. TJpcraft,
Mr. E. 0. Stocker the late Dr. Timothy Richard and the
late Mr. T. R. Jernigan^
With an edition so thoroughly revised it was thought
that the work of bringing out a third edition would be a
very simple matter. But once the work of revision was
undertaken it was found that China has changed tremend-
ously in the past few years. Scarcely a paragraph of the
second edition has been allowed to stand unchanged and the
work of revision which it was thought could be completed
in a few months has dragged out over the better part of a
year. As in former editions every effort has been made to
bring the volume up to date but it is offered to the pub-
lic with the realization that no book of this character on a
country which is changing so rapidly as China can ever be
completely accurate.
I wish to express my grateful appreciation to the many
friends who have helped in the revision of this edition and
especially to Mrs. Samuel Couling who has patiently and
painstakingly read all of the proofs and whose superior know-
ledge of China has added greatly to the value of this book.
Caul Crow
Shanghai, April 2, 1921
PAGE
General Information , 1
China and Touiists 1
Climate and Clothing (5
Customs Tlcusas 8
Shopping 8
Money and Exchange 9
Hunting 33
Servants 14 -
Transportation 16
Books on China 20
Calendar 24
Hotels and Inns 25
Brigands, Pirates and Rebellions 26
Guides 26
Food and Drink 27
Pidgin English 28
Routes and Parcs 32
Laws and Passports 35
Telegrams and Posts 35
Chinese Names 36
Treaty Port 36
Weights and Measures 38
'Historical Sketch 42
Beligions of China 64
Taoism 64'
Buddhism 66
Confucianism 69
Ancestral Worship 70
Mohammedanism 71
Christianity. 72
ii
CONTENTS
Sapcistition
i&rts and Industries .
Porcelain . . . . . . . . .
Painting .
Bronzes
Architecture and Monuments .
Silk
Carving
Jewelry
Cloisonne
Laoc
Embroidery
Lacquer
The Government of China
Shangliai (and the Yangtsze Valley)
Woosiing
Hangchow
Chekiang Province , . , . . ,
Shaohing
Pootoo, the Sacred Island. . . .
Mokanshan
The Hangchow Bore , , , ,
Ningpo
Shanghai-Nanking Eailway , .
Soocliow,,
Wusih
Chinkiang
Nanking
Kiangsu Province
Nantungchow
The Yangtsze River
Wuliu .. ,,
Anking
Anhui Province
Kiukiang
Kuling
PAGE
.. 75
78
.. 78
.. 83
.. $4
.. 85
.. 86
.. 88
.. 89
.. 90
.. 90
.. 90
91
93
.. 102
.. 116
.. 116
.. 125
.. 127
.. 128
.. 133
r. 134
(. 137
.. 142
.. 143
.. 149
.. 151
.. 153
.. 159
.. ]50
.. 160
.. 162
.. 163
.. 164-
.. 165
.. 166
CONTENTS iii
PAGE
Nanchang 168
Kiangsi Province 170
Ching-teh-chen 170
The Wu-Han Cities 171
Hupeh Province 175
Chungsha 175
Hunan Province 178
The Yangtsze Gorges 180
Ichang 184
Chungking 184
Chengtu 185
Szechuen Province 187
Tatsienlu . . . . ISO
Hangkew to Pelting 192
Kalfeng 193
Honan Province 195
Honanfu 197
Chenchow 197
Peking 199
Legation Quarter 207
Temple of Heaven 209
Temple of Agriculture . . 212
Lama Temple 213
Temple of Confucius 217
The Hall of Classics 218
The Drum Tower 219
The Bell Tower 219
Astronomical Observatory 220
Site of Old Examination Hall 221
National Art Museum 222
Altar of Earth 223
The Botanical and Zoological Gardens 224
Coal Hill 224
Ti Wang Miao 225
Mohammedan Mosques . , 225
Yellow Tempb .. .. 226
CONTENTS
PAG]
Summer Palace
The Ming Tombs 22!
The Groat Wall 23.
Western 23!
Pastern Tcml 23.
Chihli Province 23
Jehol 23
23'
Shensi Province • • • • 231
Tlie Loess Plain 24'
Lanchowfu 24
Paotingfu * 24
Taiyucnfii 24
Peking Mukden Kaihvay 24:
Tientsin 24-
The Grand Canal 24i
Peitaiho 24
Chin-Tvang-tao 24.
Moukden 24$
Manchuria 253
Shaif-hai-kwan . . . . 256
Harbin . . . . . . . . 256
Changchun 257
Dairen (Dalny) 258
South Manchuria Railway 259
Lushun (Port Arthur) 261
Newehwang (Yingkou) 263
Moukden to Antung (Ampo Line) 263
Chefoo 263
Weihaiwei 264
Tsingtau .. .. 266
Tsinanfu . , . . ^ , 267
The Yellow Railway 270
Tientsin-Pukow Railway .. 271
Shantung Provyice 273
CONTENTS
V
PAGE
Tai Shan 274
Chufou 277
Tsowhsien 279
Pukow 281
Hongkong (and South China) 282
Canton 290
Kwangtung ProTince 295
Macao ' 297
The West River 299
Amoy 300
Foochow 302
Fukien Province . . ^ 305
Swatow 306
Chaochowfu 306
[Vunnan 307
Tin Mines of Kochin 313
The Swallow’s Cavo 314
Face page 1.
GEEAT PAGODA AT SOOCHOW.
THE
TRAVELERS’ HANDBOOK
FOR
CHINA
g^Jeral information
HINA and Tourists. — As the fact is
becoming more generally known that
it is possible to visit the interesting
country of China without foregoing
the usual comforts of life or braving
extra-ordinary dangers, tourists are
turning to it each year in larger
numbers. They find that one may
travel hundreds of miles and visit
the most important points without
leaving the railway or steamship lines
or getting very far away from a
City Gate, Peking fairly good hotel. In foreign hotels
^ and railways, the fringe of China
that is accessible to foreigners is thoroughly modern, but with
the acquisition of these conveniences for travelers, the country
has lost none of its unique charm and remains as interesting
and strange as it was to Europeans who more than five
hundred years ago read Marco Polo’s amazing account of the
* land of the Great Khan.
A comparatively small part of China is open to travelers,
in the sense in which the word travelers is ordinarily under-
2
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Stood, but this part, fortunately, is the most interesting, ft
includes the great semi-foreign port of Shanghai, the
mysterious capital, Peking, the southern metropolis, Canton,
the tomb of Confucius and many places of less political,
historical or commercial importance, such as Nanking,
Soochow, Chefoo, Monk len, the ancient capital of the Man-
chus, the Yangtsze R ver for six hundred miles from its
mouth, and the old Portuguese colony of Macao. Any
traveler, no matter what the object of his trip to China,
may profitably spend several months visiting these readily
accessible places. Of course, some of the very interesting
spots cannot be included in any ordinary itinerar3^
Chengtu, the great metropolis of Szechuen Province,
Sianfu, old capital of the Han rulers, as well as many other
places intimately connected with Chinese history, are so far
from the ordinary and modern routes of travel that they can
be visited only by those who are willing to extend their visits
to the country and make special and often tedious arrange-
ments for these interior journeys. Equally inaccessible to the
ordinary traveler are many of the rivers and a wealth of
mountain scenery surpassed by few countries.
Ihc interest of a visit to China is not confined to any one
class of travelers. The s^ze, population and undeveloped
wealth of the country give it an absorbing interest to
statesmen, religionists, merchants, bankers, and all who have
to do with the affairs of the world. The artist finds new and
rich treasures in the comparatively unknown Chinese art. For
the curio collector there are the great stocks of rare brocades,
bronzes, pictures and porcelains, while the casual visitor who
does not care to do more than see China in a hurried trip w’ill
find every moment crowded with strange sights and will carry
away never-to-be-forgotten impressions.
It is^a trite expression that Chinese civilization has little
in common with that of the West. From, a time when the
world was very young to a comparatively recent period, China
was isQ^ated from all other countries and developed a
civilization unaffe^cted by the forces and influences which
moulded Europe and America. The result is equally interest-
GENERAL INFORMATION
ing to the casual traveler and to the serious student. One
cannot be in China many hours before noticing customs which
.‘Sivike him as being directly contrary to what he has always
thought to be the established order of things. So long as he
remains in the country evidences of this contrariness continue
to accumulate, a never failing source of interest and enter-
tainment. If he remains long enough to become a student of
Chinese customs, art and literature, he will find his interest
does not fag with more intimate knowledge, but rather that
China — any one of the many aspects of China — affords a study
at onc'e fascinating and inexhaustible.
The present Republic of China extends over an area of
about five million square miles; a great deal more than twice
that of the United States. This estimate, of course, includes
Mongolia, Manchuria, Tibet and Eastern Turkestan, in
addition to the eighteen provinces which make up China
proper.
However, the average traveler need concern himself only
with Manchuria and a half of the provinces. Tibet is one of
the very few places in the world which remain practically
forbid len to the foreign traveler; Mongolia is better known
but there is little in its vast desert plain to make a visit
enjoyable to the average traveler. Eastern Turkestan is less
attractive and more remote. The eighteen provinces which
have furnished the stage for the long and absorbingly
interesting drama of Chinese history occupy about two-fifths
of the entire area of the country. It is within this area that a
great part of the large population of the country is found,
all of the dependencies being very sparsely, populated. The
most popularly accepted figure for this population is 400
millions, though this, at best, is little more than a guess, called
an estimate by courtesy. Some have placed the figure as low
as 300 millions and others as high as 500 millions, so that the
generally accepted figure, which also happens to be that
approved by the Chinese themselves, Ij[es midway between the
highest and lowest estimate of foreign investigators. If the
populations of Austria-Hungary, Belgium, France, Germany,
Italy, England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, /apan, Serbia and
4
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
Roiimania had been wiped out by the Great War, these
countries could have been repeopled by Chinese and leave
enough residents of China to give it a population as dense tis .
that of the United States.
The population by provinces, according to generally ac-
cepted estimates is as follows :
Province
Population
Persons per
sq. mile
Anhwei
23,672,300
*132
Chekiang
1 1,580,000
310
Cliihli
20,930,000
180
Fokien
23,870 000
492
Honan
25,317.820
373
llur.au
22,169,000
265
Hupeh
35,280,000
495
Kansu
10,386,000
82
Kiangsi
26,532,000
382
Kiangsu
23,980,230
620
Kwangsi
5,142,000
66
Kwangtung
31,865,200
.318
Kweichow
7,650,000
1 14
Shansi
10,200,000
149
Shantung
38,247,900
OS3
Shensi
8,450,000
i 12
Szechuen
68,724,800
3^4
Yunnan
12,721,500
86
Figures pertaining to the area of China are as impressive
as those ^relating to the population. “ For a traveler to
encircle Chi na he would need to journey a distance con-
sideiably greater than half the circumference of the world.
Of this distance, some 400 miles would be coast line, some
6000 miles would be bordering on Russian Territory, another
4800 miles would touch British possessions, while of the re-
mainder, some 400 miles would be contiguous to country under
French rule and about 800 miles be described as doubtful.’"*
* Mrrshall Broomfiall in “The Chinese F,mpire.’‘
general information
The traveler will not find it necessary to leave the railway
or steamship lines in order to make an extensive visit to the
country. China has more than 5.000 miles of railway, the
lYangtsze River is navigable by ocean steamers for a distance
of 600 miles from its mouth, and several hundred miles farther
by river steamer and house boat, and several lines of coast
and river steamers connect important cities. At all principal
points hotel accommodations will be found, most of them
under European control and management. A great many new
hotels have been established in the last few years, and the
traveling public notes a constant improvement in all of them;
Both servants and provisions are cheap in China, and in theory
hotel rates should be low. They were low before the European
war, but with the increased cost of imported provisions and
the increased gold value of the Mexican dollar, rates are no
longer what they once were, perhaps the cheapest in the world
for the same class of accomodations. In fact at the time this
is written, (1920) travel and living in China are no longer
cheap.
Along the beaten path the stranger will find the way made
easy for him. Hotel servants, railway and steamship attendants
speak English and are familiar with his needs. The more
venturesome who are wulling to leave the railways, steamship
lines and hotels, travel on wheelbarrows, donkeys, or in sedan
chairs and junks, and live in native inns, can visit any part of
the country at small cost, and enjoy rare experiertces. But no
trip of this sort should be lightly undertaken. Provisions must
be carried and servants and interpreters engaged. The needs of
the traveler will depend so much on the object of his trip, the
season and the territory to be traversed that no guide book
formulae would be of much value. The advice of experienced
travelers must be sought, and followed.
The foreigner who knows only English will have no
difficulty in finding his way about the various foreign settle-
ments where pidgin ” English is spoken. One will pick up
a knowledge of this hybrid language within the first few days
of his stay. Except the missionaries, fe^ foreign residents
ever learn Chinese, which as a spoken language, differs
6
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
greatly in various parts of the country. The provincial
differences in dialect are especially marked in the southeastern
part of the country, from Shanghai to Canton^ where tlie
Chinese traveler has but little advantage over the foreigner.
Climate and Clothing.— If the territory of China were
superimposed on that of North America, it would reach from
Seattle to Halifax and from Winnipeg to the Isthmus of
Tehuantepec. Climatic conditions might well be expected to
be very different in such a vast extent of territory, but the
great plateau of Mongolia tends to establish rather uniform
temperature over this great area. The ascending air from the
heated sandy deserts in summer causes a current of air from
the Pacific ocean while the current takes an opposite direction
in winter when the prevailing winds are from the cold, dry
jdateau.
Although there are no very definite physical marks by
which the country is divided, China is generally considered,
geographically, as separated into three sections, North, Central
and South. The former may be said to consist of the basin of
the Yellow River, (Hoang-ho), Central China the basin of the
Yangtsze and Southern China that of the West River. The
winter months of North China extend from November to
March, during which time the rivers are frozen and the weather
is very cold. The Tientsin port is closed by ice during winter
and all traffic arrives over the railways. In the summer the
temperature is nearly as high as in other parts of the country
and there is a heavy rainfall with frequent floods. v?The spring
and autumn, as in most other parts of the world, afford the
best seasons for a visit as the temperature is then equable
and there is little rainfall. In Central China the range of
temperature is not so great as in the North and the rainy
season comes earlier in the year. However there is freezing
weather in winter and a temperature of lOO degrees in summer.
During April and May the rivers are usually swollen.
Theoretically, February and March are dry, but as a matter of
common experience they are often cold and wet. In South
China the winter .months are usually dry and the summer
season tainy. The traveler who desires comfort will goto
CLIMATE and clothing
7
South China in the winter and visit the Yangtszc Valley and
the North in the spring or autumn. No section of China can
bfe called particularly comfortable in summer. The rainfall
increases as one journeys southward, the annual average (1874
to 1909) being 84 inches in Hongkong, 44 in Shanghai and 25
in Peking. The summers on the sea coast are very moist
adding to the discomforts of the heated season. The mean
humidity at Shanghai is 80 and at Hongkong 77. Mould will
form on shoes, clothing and leather bags unless aired in the
sun at every opportunity. There are typhoons in the South
which occasionally reach as far North as Shanghai. In former
years these atmospheric disturbances caused great damage to
shipping and loss of life, but with improvements in weather
reporting, ample warning of the approach of tj^phoons is now
given and ships bound for threatened parts remain in port.
Clothing that is easily washed is essential for the summer
months, when except in the extreme north everyone is clad in
white. The traveler need not equip himself with an outfit
before leaving home, for on his arrival in China he will find
numberless Chinese tailors ready to make up any garments he
wants at about half the price he would pay in America, and at
somewhat less than English prices. The local laundrymen will
wash a suit of drill, duck or flannel for 7 to 10 cents.’^ The
usual hotel charge for laundry is five cents for each piece,
whether it be a handkerchief or a dress shirt.
Many large shops and department stores will be found
in Shanghai, Hongkong and Tientsin, where the traveler
will be able to purchase almost any article he may require
while there are few places which do not offer a small assort-
ment of foreign clothing, toilet articles, etc. Foreign tailors
and dressmakers are located in Shanghai, Peking, Tientsin and
Hongkong for the service of those who are not satisfied with
the Chinese.
A sun helmet will be found almost indispensable in
summer. The old resident's advice for thq heated season is
* Except where otherwise indicated all prices in this book arc «x»
pressed in Mexican currency. See paragraphs on'‘Money,” page 9.
8
HANDBOOK FOB CHINA
•'Never walk when you can ride, and keep out of the sun/'
With ricshas or chairs at every corner, ready to carry you
wherever you want to go, this advice is easily followed.
In the treaty port hotels, dinner dress is customary, but
not indispensable. For the summer months, the ordinary
dress coii or dinner jacket is replaced by a cool white duck
garihcnt known as a “mess jacket/’
Customs Houses. — There are three kinds of customs houses
in China— the Maritime Customs, which collects a 5% advalorem
duty on maritime exports and imports; the “Old Customs
Housfs,” which date from many centuries B, C. and levy
certain duty and fees on inland traffic ; and the Likifty a system
of transit duties levied at various points in a rather irregular
manner. In addition there is a duty levied at city gates,
corresponding to the old octroi duty of France. Except for
the octroi officials whom the traveler may meet at the gates of
Peking and a Ukin station at Tientsin, the only customs houses
one comes in contact with arc those under the foreign manage-
ment of the Maritime Customs. These are located at all the
treaty ports and until recent years the customs officials paid
slight attention to the baggage of travelers. But with the
success of efforts to stop the growth and importation of opium
the temptation to smuggle the drug has become stronger and
now all baggage is examined as a very necessary precautionary
measure. No attempt is made to levy customs tax on personal
effects, but there is prohibition or restrictions on ihe importa-
tion of opium, salt, fire arms, and ammunition. Travelers
should note that the customs duty of China is uniformly levied
on imports and exports and that if goods other than personal
effects are taken out of the country it is necessary to pass them
through the customs before they can be accepted by the
shipping companies.
Shopping.— Silks, porcelains, brasses, bronzes, cloisonne,
embroideries, carved jade and ivory are only a few of the many
beautiful things which can be purchased in Chinese shops, and,
for the .shopper who is willing to bargain, the prices will be
satisfactorily cheap. It must be remembered that the dealer
seldom has a fixed price for anything in stock. He. expects to
MONEY AND EXCUANGE
y
sell for as high a price as possible, while the wise shopper will
adopt the Chinese custom and use his wits to make the purchase
as cheaply as possible. Bargaining is considered by the Chinese
as indispensible in most business transactions. If a purchase
is made through a professional guide one may be sure that the
guide is adding to the shopkeeper’s price a commission for
himself, which he will return later to collect. Even the most
trusted house boys and personal servants are unable to resist
this temptation to pick up a little extra money, while the go-
between who often steps out of the crowd to suggest a
compromise price, does so with the tacit understanding, between
himself and the shopkeeper, that this price includes bis
commission. As a matter of fact this “squeeze" or commission
system is recognized as more or less legitimate in Chinese
business and if it did not exist much higher wages would be
necessary.
To these remarks there are several notable exceptions in
the principal treaty ports, where enterprising Chinese have
established stores catering especially for the foreign trade.
At these places there is a fixed price and the goods are of
dependable quality. This applies especially to jewelry, silk,
and fur stores. In all cases, careful inquiry should be made
of local foreign residents before making purchases of any
great value.
Peking is the great storehouse of fine Chinese curios and
ihc finest shops are to be found there. Shanghai perhaps
ranks second, with some shops which rival those of Peking
in the richness of their stocks. A rather different class of
goods will be found in Hongkong, Canton and other southern
ports where the offerings of old porcelain and other valuable.
^ art objects are not so numerous, but there are more interest-
ing articles of modern manufacture than can be found in the
northern ports. Some mention of the articles procurable in
the various cities will be found in the following pages.
Money and Exchange. — Several volumes might be written
on the subject of Chinese currency without exhausting the
subject. Although in foreign trade the unit is the tael, the
unit in native transactions is the cash, the •small copper coin
10
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
with a hole in the middle. According to theory, which .n no "
place squares with the practice, the coinage is as follow >.
loHao I Cash or Li
JO Cash I Candareen or Fen
10 Candareen i Mace or Tsien
10 Mace i Tael or Liang
It is first necessary to explain that the system of coinage
indicated by the above table does not exist except in this and
in other books whose authors are reckless enough to attempt
an explanation of China’s currency. Of the five coins
mentioned only one, the cash exists. That is, they do not
exist so far as the writer knows. He drew for several years
a salary fixed at a certain number of taels but never saw one
of the coins. The Chinese tael is really nothing more than an
ounce of silver of a certain degree of fineness which is
different in almost every locality. The Shanghai tael which
is fairly well known in all parts of the country is worth at the
time this is written about $i.6o (U. S. currency,) or 8 shillings.
The gold value, of course, fluctuates daily with the quotation
on silver. A few years ago the tael was worth about half of its
present gold value. While the gold value of the unit fluctuates
dizzily there is often an equal fluctuation between the tael and
the copper cash. In commenting on this variability in Chinese
currency the well informed author of Chinese Characteristics
says :
“The system is everywhere a decimal one, whicn is the
easiest of all systems to be reckoned, but no one is ever sure
until he has made particular inquiries, what number of pieces
of brass cash ar-3 expected in any i^articular place to pass for a
hundred. He will not need to extend his travels over a very
large part of the eighteen provinces to find that this number
varies, and varies with a lawlessness that nothing can explain,
from the full hundred which is the theoretical string, to pg,
98» 9('h (as in the capital of Shansi), down to 33, as in the
eastern part of the province of Chihli, and possibly to a still
lower number elsewhere. The same is true, but in a more
aggravated degree, of the weight by which silver is sold. No
two places have the same ounce, unless by accident, and each
ItONEV AND EXCHANGE
11
place has a great variety of different ounces, to the extreme
bewilderment of the stranger, the certain loss of all except
those who deal in silver, and the endless vexation of all
honest persons, of whom there are many, even in China/*
The common mediums of exchange in the interior were
until a few years ago the strings of copper cash and lumps of
silver. The latter are known to the Chinese as ^‘sycee** a term
which is applied to all uncoined silver used as money. It
means “fine silk” as the silver when heated can he drawn out
in fine silk like threads. The Dutch who came first called
these lumps of silver schuyi or boat because of the resemb-
lance to a common Chinese boat. Other Europeans who came
later changed the Dutch word to “shoe.” Every native bank is
equipped with scales on which the shoe of silver is weighed
to determine its value in taels. It is then exchanged. for copper
cash with which the small purchases of the country are made.
Happily for the traveler, he need not concern himself
with this currency unless he intends going far into the interior.
When the foreigners began to settle in the treaty ports, they
objected to a currency system which required them to carry
about five or ten pound lumps of silver as spending money.
To avoid this, they introduced the Mexican, and other silver
dollars and the former remains the standard currency of most
ports. Its value, like that of the tael, is determined by the
market price of silver. Before the Great War ^t was usually
exchangeable at two Mexican for one American or Canadian
dollar or ten for one pound sterling. Since the war the
Mexican dollar has come to be worth more than the American
dollar, owing to the increased value of silver. Local foreign
banks issue paper notes payable in Mexican dollars. Prices
at hotels and stores are quoted in dollars, while all large
business transactions, professional fees, etc. are in taelji.
Usually the two are exchangeable at a rate of about four dol-
lars for three taels.
While the Mexican dollar is standard at Shanghai the
Spanish dollar and a number of dollars of provincial coinage
are standard at other places, and in some cities several kinds
of dollars will be found in circulation, all 0/ them at different
12
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
values. Kecently a Chinese dollar containing the same weight
of silver as the Mexican dollar has been issued by Chinese
mints and it is rapidly becoming popular in all parts of the
country. Inquiry should be made as to the currency accef>t-
able at each place, and the traveler should buy only enough
local currency to supply his needs. The bank notes issued
locally by the various banks will not be exchanged in other
cities exv'ept at a heavy discount.
In addition to this dollar currency, smaller silver coins of
a nominal value of ten and twenty cents and copper coins
representing ten cash are in circulation. But it must always
be remembered that a coin in China represents nothing more
than the actual market value of the metal it contains. Thus a
few years ago a Mexican dollar would be exchanged for less,
than 100 of the large Chinese coppers. At the time this is
written, with the price of copper lower, the dollar is exchange-
able for about 120 coppers, and you will receive ii coppers for
each silver ten cent piece. At the money changer’s you will
receive for a dollar hve 20 cent pieces, one 10 cent piece and
two to four coppers.
These small coins are accepted, usually, on all purchases
less than fifty cents, but many shopkeepers, take advantage
of exchange. For instance, if you make a ten cent purchase
in Shanghai and tender a Mexican dollar in payment, you
will receive only 90 cents in change. But if you first have
your dollar changed into small money, you will be able to make
the purchase and have more than loo cents remaining.
This disparity between the dollar value and cent value in
China helps to perpetuate the chit system. At all hotels, the
traveler will be asked to sign chits for papers, cigars, etc. If
he paid cash for th*ese articles as he purchased them, he would
pay for them in ‘^small money"' that is, small silver coins and
coppers. But when he settles his bill at the end of his stay,
the amount is reckoned in “large money,” and he pays 10 to 20
per cent more than if he had made cash purchases.
When you offer your dollar to the money changer or the
shopkeeper, he will bang it violently on the counter, and, if not
satisfied with the result, subject it to further tests. In the
HUNTING
13
banks expert Chinese clerks juggle Mexican dollars so rapidly
that the eye can scarcely follow their movements, and they
throw out a spurious coin each time there is a discord in the
silver harmony. The traveler would do well to learn the
difference between the sound of silver, brass and lead, for
there are many counterfeit coins in circulation. If the coin
gives forth a brassy sound, place it in a shallow basin covered
with spirits. Touch a match to the spirits and when the flame
has died down you will find your dollar has been melted into
three pieces. The face of the coin had been removed and a
hollow scooped out of the center and filled with brass to give
it the proper weight. Then the face was soldered back, the
coin presenting a surface of pure silver and the correct weight.
This is the famous ‘"three piece dollar,’* and its existence offers
a striking commentary on the cheapness of the labor of the
skilled Chinese artisan who finds it worth while to undertake
such tedious work for the sake of the few cents’ worth of silver
he is able to filch from the bowels of the coin.
When the money-changer gives you silver dollars in
exchange for bank-notes, he will c^efully stamp each dollar
with his own “chop” or trade-mark.^f in Shanghai, the chop
will be applied with a rubber stamp. In Canton, it will be put
on xvith a steel die, the constant use of which will, in time,
deface the original marks of the coin and give it a cup shape.
This chop is the money-changer’s guarantee that the coin is
genuine. If it proves otherwise, return it to him and he will
make good the guarantee his chop implies.
Travelers are advised to carry with them, even if they
have the usual letter of credit, a certain amount of funds in
travelers’ checks or circular notes issued by well-known banks.
These checks can always be cashed at hotels or on board a.
steamer and will often be found convenient. The banks in
the Far East observe so many holidays that sometimes one is
subject to vexatious delays while waiting for the banks to
resume business before being able to replenish funds.
Hunting. — Wild ganie abounds in all parts of China, and .
this, the most thickly populated of countries, offers many
opportunities for the sportsman. Doubtless this is due to th«
14
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
fact that the purchase of firearnis by Chinese has been severely
restricted and the only game they secure is by means of
primitive traps. A shooting expedition can best be arranged
ill connection with a houseboat trip. The section reached by
houseboat or by the Shanghai-Nanking railway from Shanghai
is a favorite one for hunters. The pheasant is the most
common game in China and is to be found in nearly all parts of
the country, particularly along the Yangtsze river. Bamboo
partridge, sand grouse, duck and snipe are to be found in large
numbers and add variety to the day's game bag. Writing of a
trip through Shensi in the winter months, a correspondent of
the London Times says: “Nine deer, two wolves and scores
of pheasants were shot from the roadside. Pheasants were so
plentiful that the muleteers were often seen flicking them oif
the road with their whips. Ninety were once counted on a
small patch of ground a stone’s throw distant.” Tigers and
panthers have been killed within ten miles of Foochow and
many wild pigs are to be found in Chekiang. Strict regulations
forbid the importation of flrearms into China, but do not apply
to sportsmen, who are only required to register their arms at
the Consulate.
Ref erences for further reading: Shooting in China!* by
T. R. Jernigan; H. T. Wade in *'With Boat and Gun in the
Yangtze Valley.**
Servants. — Chinese servants are justly famous all over the
world, and nearly everyone who visits China goes away to add
to the praise which is accorded them. With some exceptions
the servant is patient and industrious and loyal to his employer.
He will work long hours without complaining, seems never to
require any time to sleep, eat or rest and no matter what
storms may rage over the household, he is usually cheerful and
smiling. Without being told he learns all the requirements of
the household and the likes and dislikes of the master and
mistress. Often he learns these all too well for if one ever
expresses a liking, let us say, for beefsteak and kidney pie, he
will find beefsteak and kidney pie on the table at every meal
and will And it diflicult to convince the servant that what may
be acceptable as an occasio::aI dish is very objectionable as a
SERVANTS
15
steady diet. The servant usually tries to make himself
indispensable to his employer and often succeeds. No matter
how much one may determine not to do so he rarely avoids
being spoiled by the Chinese boy, and when he returns to lands
less well supplied with servants, will often long for the
blue-gowned boy of the China coast.
The Chinese servant will never ask for a day off, but on
rare occasions finds it necessary to go to some distant place to
worship at the ancestral shrine. In this event the master will
find his regular servant replaced by another who apparently
knows the needs of the household as well as if he had been in
it a year instead of a day. If the servant is treated kindly,
he responds with unswerving loyalty and it is the rule rather
than the exception that a bond of real affection forms between
master and servant.
As a final good quality of Chinese servants, it may be
mentioned that they are very cheap. A good house boy may
be employed at a maximum wage of $r6 monthly, and an
excellent cook for $14. Coolies are content with $12, and
amahs, who do the work of maids or nurses at $15 to $20.
Out of these wages the servants will furnish their own food,
clothing and quarters though it is customary for them to live
on the premises. There is a very sharp line dividing the duties
of different servants and though the foreigner will often find
this annoying, he will do well to accept it rather than to try to
break down customs which had crystallized for cer^turies before
he was born. The house-boy who so willingly works all day
and half the night will not carry a parcel through the street,
for that is what is termed ^‘coolie pidgin,” and the boy or cook
cannot perform the task without losing face. As master of
that most important part of tlie household, the kitchen, the
cook insists on and is usually granted certain privileges, among
them being the domination of the other servants. The coolie
expects as a matter of right to have all the old bottles around
the place and would probably not stay long with a master
thrifty enough to dispose of them himself.
Admirable as the Chinese servant U in every other way,
he has one fault. He thinks it is his special privilege to
16
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
squeeze his master on all purchases made. He will collect
commissions from the tailor, the laundryman, and all others
with whom his master has any dealings. This system of com-
missions and petty grafting is so ingrained in custom, that no
foreigner need attempt to combat it. A little sternness now
and then will keep it within bounds.
The hotels furnish servants for all their guests, but when
a prolonged stay is intended, visitors often employ additional
servants. An intelligent boy, who will find his own food,
lodging and clothing on a monthly wage of $i6, will add a
great deal to the pleasure of a visit. Steamship and railway
lines offer special cheap rates for servants, who may accompany
the traveler at slight additional cost. However, few Chinese
boys arc of any great value in traveling, most of them being
helpless when taken away from home.
Transportation.— Considering its vast area, China’s five
thousand miles of railway cannot be considered to cover the
country very thoroughly, but as the railways connect the prin-
cipal points the mileage is ample to meet the requirements of
the average traveler. Though all the lines are included in the
system known as the Chinese Government Railways, some of
them are under the management of foreigners approved
by the foreign bondholders who furnished mone}'^ for the con-
struction. With the usual exceptions, travel on the express
tiaiiis in China will be found comfortable and satisfactory.
Sleeping cars and dining car accommodations are to be had on
all long journeys, as between Shanghai and Peking, but the
traveler should always make sure that he is taking the right
train as neither meals nor beds are to be had on some of the
ordinary mail trains. On some of the most important lines
e c lec system of handling baggage is in vogue and trunks
may be checked through to destination. On other lines the
passenger must look after his own baggage. Plenty of porters
wll always be found to carry baggage to and from trams but
e IS wise w 10 leaves this to the hotel runner’s management.
K ^ame to China long before its railways
Tn,! tl^“' followed the coast
and the navigable rivers. To this circumstance is due the fact
transportation
17
that nearly every port of China in which foreigners reside,
which are also the ports which travelers will >^ant to visit,
may be reached by one of the many coast or river steamship
lines, The sailings are frequent and though the boats are
small, most of them are comfortable and set a satisfactory
table. On the smaller streams steam launch lines have been
established connecting the larger ports wdth hundreds of
smaller towns.
In the treaty ports the riesha is the most popular means of
getting about. Its invention is credited to an American mis-
sionary named Globe who while living near Yokohama in 1869
converted a baby carriage into a vehicle in which his invalid
wife could travel about. From this modest beginning the riesha
has spread to all parts of the Far East, except Manila, and may
be found as far distant as South Africa. Its full name is ;m-
riki’Sha and its Japanese etymology is given jin, man;
riki, power; sha, vehicle, or, literally, man-power-vehicle.
Foreigners on the China coast have robbed the name of its
first syllable and call it rikisha while some who live in Ja^an
rob it of its last and call it jinriku Only newcomers dignify it
wdth its full name.
The first class rieshas in the principal cities are equipped
with rubber tires, and are very comfortable. The charges
vary in each place, but average about 40 cents an hour, 80
cents a half day, or $1.50 for a whole day. Treaty port re-
sidents use them for short trips about town, paying about 15
cents a mile, and five and ten cents for shorter trips. Never
make the mistake of asking the coolie what the fare should be.
He will immediately know that ycai are a stranger and de-
mand five times the legal fare. Very frequently the coolie
will demand a dollar for a trip from the steamer landing to
the hotel when the correct charge is 10 or 15 cents. If you
oyer-pay him your reputation for prodigality will soon spread,
and you will be bothered during yoiir entire stay by excessive
demands. The cheerful riesha coolie is crafty, and one of his
favorite tricks is quickly to replace the coin you have given
him with a counterfeit, which he will insist you have given
him. If you argue with him, he will enje^ nothing better, as it
18
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
gives him an opportunity to show off his gift of repartee to
the crowd which always assembles, and you are at a dis-
advantage in not knowing Chinese billingsgate. Pay him what
you think is right and then walk away.
Carnages of various degrees of comfort are to be found
in the principal ports, at a practically uniform charge of$i
an hour, $3 for a half day, or $5 for a whole day. These
rates apply to carriages with Mongolian ponies. At a higher
price, horse carriages may be obtained. The traveler who,
on his arrival, is inclined to criticise the appearance of
these carriages in the principal cities, will, after an acquaint-
ance, with the wrecks in the smaller interior places, find the
more elegant vehicles of the large ports highly satisfactory.
No matter what the style of the equipage, the mafoOt or
driver, will always expect a tip, though he seldom deserves
it. It should be very small.
In the larger ports, of recent years, motor cars have almost
driven public carriages from the streets. This is especially
true in Shanghai, Tientsin and Peking, where the former
long lines of carriages have disappeared and the advent of
motor cars has made radical changes in street traffic. Rates
for cars vary from two or three dollars an hour upward,
while special rates are provided for excursions, such as from
Peking to the Western Hills, etc.
In the Chinese cities, the streets are often too narrow for
richas and sedan chairs are generally used. Travel in
them is not very comfortable, but offers a novel experience.
Rates vary, but a rate based on $i a day for each coolie em-
ployed will be especially liberal. Donkeys will be found useful
in Nanking, Soochow and other cities. The rate should be
settled with the donkey driver before starting out. It will pre-
vent a stormy scene at the end of the journey.
Houseboats, wheelbarrows, mountain chairs, palanquins
and several styles of mule carts are among the many means
of transportation which one may find and use in China, when
he leaves the railways. It would be impossible to give any
general rates which would apply in all parts of the country,
or at any one place during all seasons, for the tariff is usually
TRANSPORTATION
19
what the traffic will bear. The ever valuable old resident
must be called upon to supply the information. In any event
it will be well, in all transactions of this sort, especially in
case of journeys of any length, to bear in mind the following
excellent advice given by Dr. Arthur H. Smith in his Chinese
Characteristics,
"Of all subjects of human interest in China, the one
which most needs to be guarded against misunderstanding
is money. If the foreigner is paying out this commodity
(which often appears to be the principal function of the
foreigner as seen from the Chinese standpoint) a future-
perfect tense is ‘a military necessity.* 'When you shall have
dojie your work, you will receive your money.* ‘But there is
no future-perfect tense in Chinese, cr tense of any descrip-
tion. A Chinese simply says, ‘Do work, get money,* the last
being the principal idea which dwells in his mind, the ‘time
relation* being absent. Hence when he is to do anything for
a foreigner he wishes his money at once, in order that he may
‘eat,* the presumption being that if he had not stumbled on the
job of this foreigner he would never have eaten any more !
Eternal vigilance, we must repeat, is the price at which
immunity from misunderstandings about money is to be
purchased in China. Who is and who is not to receive it, at
what times, in what amounts, whether in silver ingots or brass
cash, wdiat quality and weight of the former, w^hat number of
the. latter shall pass as a ‘string’ — these and other like points
are those in regard to which it is morally impossible to have
a too definite and fixed understanding. If the matter be a con-
tract in which a builder, a compradore, or a boatman is to
do on his part certain things and furnish certain articles,
no amount of preliminary precision and exactness in explana-
tions will come amiss.**
The observant traveler will at once note the absence of
roads in China, especially south of the Yangtsze River. Around
Canton, tind in many other places in the Southern provinces the
many natural waterways have been improved by the ad-
dition of connecting canals until the country is covered with
a criss-cross of water routes affording a means of transporta-
20
HANDBOOK for CHINA
tion more economical than the best of roads. These natural
water routes and canals exist in nearly all parts of the country
and afford a satisfactory explanation for the absence of roads.
They also explain why, in Southern China, there is very little
wheeled traffic. In the mountainous districts neither canals
nor roads can be built and instead there are narrow footpaths,
cargo being transported on the shoulders of coolies.
China was at one time equipped with an excellent system
of highways, there being roads leading from Peking to Sianfu
(1500 miles) to Tientsin, Kalgan and other points. Systems
of roads also centered at Kaifeiig, Tsinanfu, Foochow, Canton,
Yunnan, Chengtu and Lanchow. These thoroughfares, which
formerly covered the main trade arteries of the country, have
been left for many centuries to take care of themselves. Rest
houses and bridges which remain, as well as the records of
history, attest to the one time magnificence of these highways.
They were 20 to 25 feet wide and paved with large stone blocks.
But the blocks have turned on edge or been appropriated for
use elsewhere and little remains of the old system. The wheel-
ed carts of North China would soon cut to pieces any road
not kept in constant repair. Through centuries of use and
misuse the roads have been worn down until often the road
bed is 6 to 10 feet below the surface level of the surrounding*
country. In rainy seasons these roads became water courses
and according to one well known writer on China, instances
of wayfarers having been drowned in the roads are not un-
known. Of recent years there has been an awakening interest
in the building of roads, and although nothing in the nature
of a national system has been undertaken, many good modern
roads have been built for short distances from important
towns.
Books on China.—Onc finds the selection of a list of
books on China a difficult task, not because of a scarcity of
publications, but because of the very large number of books
on the subject. The interest of the country has inspired the
production of books by men and women of many nationalities
for several centuries and a complete bibliography would make
a volume several times the size of this handbook. In 1917
BOOKS ON CHINA
21
Millard’s Review (Shanghai) offered a series of prizes for the
best list of books on China and a large number of lists were
submitted. Rev. F. ly. Hawks Pott, who acted as one of the
judges of the contest made up a list of '‘Most popular books
on China,” the list consisting of the books most mentioned by
the contestants. The list contained the following ;
General and Introductory
“The Changing Chinese,” E. A. Ross. Century Co., New
York, 1912. It is a study of the conflict of Oriental and Wes-
tern Cultures in China: the views of a famous sociologist.
“The Middle Kingdom,” S. Wells Williams. Scribner’s
Sons, New York, 1882. Revised edition, 1907. This is a
standard work which still holds an authoritative position.
“China, An Interpretation.” James W. Bashford. Abing-
don Press, New York, 1916. A general view of present day
China from c.ie point of view of an able missionary statesman.
Manners and Customs
“Chinese Characteristics.” A. H. Smith. Fleming H.
R'cvell Co., New York. This book, first published in 1894,
run through many editions. It is not only the most popular
book on China, but one of the most widely read books of its
kind ever published.
History
“A Sketch of Chinese History.” F. L. Ilawks-Pott.
Kelly & Walsh, Shanghai. Revised edition, 1915. An excel-
lent condensed outline for introductory study.
“Outlines of Chinese Histor3^” L,i Ung Beng, Commercial
Press, Shanghai, 1914. An interesting exposition of Chinese
history from the point of view of a Chinese.
“China Under the Empress Dowager.” J. O. P. Bland
and E. Backhouse. Wm. Heineman, London, 1910. This is
a fascinating story of the life of the last great AXanchu ruler.
Political Relations
“Intellectual and Political Currents in the Far East,” Paul
S. Reinsch. Houghton, Mifflin Co.. New* York, 1911. An
TH# IIAMAK^lSHNA MtSMAW
22
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
authoritative discussion of a very oomplex question by a well
known authority.
“Our Eastern Question.” Thos. F. Millard. The Cen-
tury Co., New York, 1916. This book was written primarily
for Americans. It contains striking and convincing argu-
ments on the relations of China, Japan and America.
Finance
“The New Atlas, and Commercial Gazeteer of China.”
North China Daily News & Herald, Shanghai.
RELIGIONS
“The Three Religions of China.” W. E. Soothill. Hodder
& Stoughton, London, 1913. An interesting, popular presen-
tation of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism.-
“The Religion of the Chinese.” J. J. M. de Groot. Mac-
Millan’s, New York, 1912. This is a series of lectures giving
a summary of the contents of hi.s longer work, “The Re-
ligious Systems of China” which was published in six volumes.
Mission.*^
“China Mission Year Book,” a volume published annually
by the Christian Literature Society, Shanghai. It contains
much interesting information regarding the social progress of
the Chinese.
Education
. “The Chinese System of Public Education.” P. W. Kuo.
Commercial Press, Shanghai, 1915. This sketch of the history
of education in China with a discussion of present day prob-
lems was originally written as a thesis at Columbia Univer-
sity.
‘Educational Directory of China,” an annual publication
issued by Edward Evans & Sons, Shanghai, giving detailed
ir^formation and statistics.
Art
‘ Chinese Art,” Stephen W. Bushell. Victoria and Albert
Museum, London, 1904. This is a standard work giving a
general survey of the subject.
BOCKS ON CHINA
23
Rb^brbncb
"The China Year Book," an annual edited by H. T. Mon-
tague Bell and H. G. W. Woodhead. George Routledge and
Sons, London. E. P. Dutton & Co., New York. A reference
book of great value.
"Things Chinese," J. Dyer Ball. Kelly & Walsh, Hong-
kong, 1903 (fourth edition). Although this is generally classed
as a reference book, it is one of the most interesting works on
China. From Abacus to Zoology it is a mine of information.
"Village Life in China." A. H. Smith. Fleming H. Revell
6 Co., New York. By many this is considered superior to the
better known ‘ Chinese Characteristics" by the same author.
"Legge’s Chinese Classics." The original text and Eng-
lish translations by James Legge. Oxford University Press,
7 volumes. A monumental work which has never been sur-
passed in its field.
"The Lore of Cathay." W. A. P. Martin. Oliphant,
Anderson and Ferrier, J^dinburgh and London, 1901. An
exposition of the intellectual life of the Chinese as revealed to
a famous educationalist who spent almost his entire life in
China.
“China; Travels in the Middle Kingdom," J. H. Wilson.
D. Appleton and Co., New York.
The prize winning list in the contest conducted by Mil-
lard’s Review listed several other books which should not be
overlooked by anyone undertaking a serious study of China.
Among them are :
"The Trade and Administration of the Chinese Empire."
H.B. Morse. Longmans, Green and Co., New Yc rk, 1908, and
"The Guilds of China" by the same author and brought out by
the same publishers a year later. Both are standard works.
"Farmers of Forty Centuries," F. H. King. MacMillan
Co., New York. The authoritative work on the agriculture of
the Far East.
"Richard’r Comprehensive Geography of the Chinese
Empire." Translated and revised by M. Kennelly. Tusewei
Press, Shanghai, 1908. Certainly the best geography of the
country.
24
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
‘Encyclopaedia Siiiica.” Samuel Couling. Kelly & Walsh,
Shanghai, 1917. A larger, more ambitious and more modern
work than “Things Chinese/*
“Outlines of Chinese Art." Dr. John C. Ferguson. 'I he
University o'f Chicago Press. An authoritative interpretation
of Chinese art by one of the greatest living authorities.
Having gone this far in selecting a list of books, it is
difficult to find a stopping place, for there are many other
books which deserve mention and recommendation. Putnam
Weale’s “Indiscreet Letters from Peking” is only one of a
number of interesting books by this author, one of the best
informed of present writers about China. The Princess Der
Ling’s “Two Years in the Forbidden City"’ is an intimate and
very interesting description of life in court circles of Peking
during the latter years of the Manchu regime. As this is
being written there appears “Peking’" by Juliet Bredon, a
fascinating book on the capital which should be read by
everyone who is interested in that wonderful city.
Those who are interested in the Chinese language should
possess a copy of “The Chinese Language and How to Learn
it” by Hillier, a book which will be found of great interest
even by those who do not care to go ahead with a study of the
language. Among the books dealing in an authoritative way
with special subjects in China may be mentioned “Chinese
Forest Trees and Timber Supply ” by Norman Shaw. Those
who have read the foregoing list of books will doubtless find
that they have become interested in some special phase of
study. They can find no greater storehouse of information
than that contained in the annual publications of the North
China Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, Shanghai. They
are for sale by Kelly & Walsh.
Calendar. Officially, China has adopted the western
calendar. A resolution putting the western calendar into
effect was adopted in November 1911 and when Dr. Sun Yat
Sen took his oath of office as President of China on January i,
1912, It was officially recorded as “ the first day of the first
year of the Chinese Republic.” ^ince that time all official
documents have been marked with European dates, but in
HOTELS AND INNS
25
private life and in business contracts the old customs still
prevail. The Chinese year is lunar, the new year falling on
“the first new moon after the sun enters Aquarius, which
makes it come not before January 21st, nor after February
19th.’' The months being lunar, twelve of them do not make
36s days and this discrepancy is made up by the insertion of
an occasional intercalary month, making 13 in the year, an
occasion for joy on the part of landlords and others who
collect their incomes by the moon.
The one important holiday of the year comes at New
Year time when all shops are closed and all who can do so
quit work entirely for a week or more.
Hotels and Inns. — European or American style hotels
will be found in all the cities usually visited by foreign
travelers; these hotels ranging in size from the large foreign
establishments of Hongkong, Peking or Shanghai to modest
places under Chinese management in the cities less visited by
foreigners. All foreign hotels in China are conducted on the
American plan, providing an inclusive charge for rooms,
meals and the usual service. This charge will be found to
range from $5 (Mexican) per day upward, though $8 is the
more customary minimum charge. The daily tariff includes
the usual three meals a day, and, in addition, afternoon tea
and an early breakfast consisting of tea, toast and fruit,
served in the room. With an increasing number of travelers
to China each year, the hotels of the principal ports are often
crowded to capacity and it is advisable to make arrangements
in advance as far as possible.
In addition to the hotels which cater to foreign tastes
alone, there is an increasing number of Chinese inns which
are becoming Europeanized, serving what they fondly believe
to be foreign style meals. Some of these are quite satis-
factory. The food served at others is a ghastly travesty on
the five course table dlidtc which all Chinese cooks believe to
be necessary to the sustenance of the foreign life.
At most steamer landings and railway stations hotel
runners will be foUnd to take charge of baggage. A small
charge is made for this service. Unless one makes special
26
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
demands on the servants, tips at ail hotels in Cliina may be
confined to the dining room boy, room boy and coolie. If
much entertaining is done and special dinners ordered, the
head waiter, known as **the number one dining room boy^* will
expect a tip. Each one must decide the amount of these tips
for himself, but as a basis for the calculation it should be
remembered that a Mexican dollar represents about two days^
wages for the average hotel servant.
If one leaves the regularly traveled routes of Chinaf
marked by railway and steamship lines and foreign hotels, he
should be equipped either with letters of introduction or with
an interpreter and a competent staff of servants. With a few
letters of introduction, the stranger may travel to nearly
every part of China and find a hospitable welcome at mission
stations and foreigners* messes. Where these are not avail-
able, the Chinese inn will always be found. It will at least
afford shelter and an opportunity to prepare the food which
the prudent traveler will carry with him. However, it should
be thoroughly understood that no trip away from the main
traveled routes should be lightly undertaken. The traveler
who goes in for a trip of this kind without adequate reason
and complete preparation deserves the trouble and incon-
veniences he will undoubtedly meet.
Brigands, Pirates and Rebellions, — For the benefit of
timid persons who may forego the pleasure of a visit to China
because of alarming stories it may be well to point out that
the^e dangers are very small. It should be remembered
that China covers a very large territory, and brigands may
ravage some parts of it without in any way disturbing the
sections ordinarily visited by foreigners. All in all, travel is
as safe in China as in any other part of the world. Robbers
and pirates exist, of course, and there is usually a revolution
or rebellion going on in some part of the country, but these
things add zest rather than danger to the journey.
Guides.— In places where a guide is necessary, it is always
advisable to secure one from the hotel or through one of the
offices of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son. The plausible gentry
who hang about Ivotel entrances and gates of native cities
POOD AND DRINK
27
should be given a wide berth. Many of them are not guides
at all, but runners from curio stores sent to lure the unwary
traveler to a reckless purchase. The letters of recom-
mendation they frequently carry have been loaned to them by
a friend, or rented for the occasion. The advice of any guide
as to purchases should be accepted with a great deal of caution,
for according to universal custom he is entitled to a com-
mission on sales and it is to his interest to lead to shops where
the commission is the highest. It is not an unknown occur-
rence for the guide and the shopkeeper to take advantage of
the tourist's ignorance of the language and arrange the terms
of the commission in his presence while pretending to be
haggling over the price.
The payment for guides ranges from $1.50 to $3.00 per
day, to which must be added transportation and other
traveling expenses. If the guide is discharged away from his
place of employment the expenses of his homeward journey
must be paid.
The many who dislike being personally conducted will
find a riesha coolie who speaks a little English quite valuable,
and in many ways more satisfactory than a guide. The coolie
takes delight in showing off his accomplishments and is glad to
act as interpreter. Some try the experiment of taking a
servant with them throughout a trip, to act as interpreter,
guide and general handy man. Though the venture is some-
times successful it is more often a failure, for the average
Chinese servant, capable as he may be at home, is usually
quite useless on a journey, and, instead of caring for his
master, needs quite a little looking after himself. To this
general statement it must be added that there are quite a
number of experienced travel servants some of whom have
accompanied travelers on the usual railway and steamship
lines while others have done duty on the less traveled routes in
the interior. In every case, letters of recommendation should
be demanded and verified.
Food and Drink. — The foreigner in China will miss few
of the luxuries of food to which he is accustomed at home
and will find many new delicacies he canrfot procure in any
28
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
other counti.v. Nearly every variety of vegetable known in
Europe or America is cultivated in China and in addition
there are many native foods which it is a delight to know.
One will seldom find the American grape fruit served in China,
but he will cease to regret its absence after he has made the
acfjiiaintancc of the pumelo. Persimmons as large as tomatoes
may be had by all who care for them. Delicious mangoes,
reminding many of the Missouri pawpaw, are served ice cold
for breakfast during the season. The lychee, or lichee, which
is exported in large quantities, is equally delicious whether
eaten fresh, dried or canned. All the year round the fruit
stands of China will be found fully stocked with a variety of
fruits. Indeed while other countries can offer superior
quality, few have the variety of fruit all the year round that
can be secured in China.
China is especially rich in poultry and game. Pheasant,
duck, quail, rice birds, snipe and venison appear almost daily
on the bills of fare during the season. Many of these articles
of food, which might be accounted luxuries in other places,
are very cheap in China.
One bit of advice which the traveler will hear over and
over again is that he should not eat any food which has not
been thoroughl}' cooked and should especially avoid green
salads. This is good advice though one will often see it
ignored by old residents with no apparent ill effects. It ap-
pears that the old resident may, without harm to himself, do
man3r things which would send the newcomer to the doctor.
Even the old resident is careful about the water he drinks and
will have none which he is not certain has been both Altered
and boiled. As the traveler cannot always be certain that this
has been done, he will be wise to drink none but bottled waters,
of which he will find a wide variety on sale everywhere. The
Chinese themselves seldom drink water, but consume huge
quantities of weak tea which has been made with boiling water.
As regards alcoholic drinks, no country offers a wider varietv
or cheaper prices.
Pidgin English.— When the first British and American
traders visited the coast of China they found a great barrier
PIDGIN ENGLISH
29
to intercourse with the natives existed in the ignorance of
each other’s language. A long period of study is required of
a foreigner to gain even a working kjiowledge of one Chinese
dialect. This difficulty was overcome through the use of
pidgin or business English. *'Pidgin'* represents the Chinese
attempt to pronounce the word business and Pidgin English
means business English. This language consists of several
hundred English words, adapted to Chinese pronunciation and
used without regard to English grammar, but as they would be
in a Chinese phrase. In fact the language originated through
attempts of the Chinese to make word-for-word translations
from Chinese into English, expressing the sounds of English
words by means of Chinese characters. Early trading at Can-
ton was carried on largely by representatives of the East India
Company, who, coming to China from India, brought with
them a few Hindustani words which add picturesqueness to the
pidgin English glossary. Recently many attacks havebcen made
on chis jargon, especially by cultured Chinese, and it is believed
that it will eventually disappear just as it has in Japan. But for
the present, except for the small class of foreigners who speak
Chinese and Chinese who have a foreign education, pidgin Eng-
lish is the only means of communication between Chinese and
foreigners. It is often used between Chinese themselves, for
when two from different Southern provinces meet, each finds dif-
ficulty in understanding the local dialect spoken by the other. It
was used to a great extent in the recent revolution by officers
of the Republican army, who, brought together frohi all parts
of the South, communicated with each other through pidgin.
There are many parts of China where pidgin English is
unknown, but the traveler will find that a knowledge of the
jargon, which is picked up in a few days, will suffice for all
his needs so long as he remains in the treaty ports or on the
usual traveled routes. Interpreters will be needed on any
trip into the interior.
Owing to the great difference in local dialects it is
obviously impossible to include in this volume the usual list
of useful sentences found in a guide book, for they would be
found useful only in the locality for which they were prepared.
30
HANDD30K FOa CHINA
In pidgin English, one word usually does the work of
several, the jargon, like the Chinese language, being uninflected. .
For instance my is used for I, me, my, mine, our, ours, and
we. /fe expresses he, she, it or they. Catchee is a modifi-
cation of the English word catch, signif}?ing ownership or
acquisition. “He have catchee one piecee wife” means “He
has married.” Belottgee is the English word belong, as
pronounced by the Chinese, and has a variety of meanings.
”JVhat side you belong f” means “Where do you live?”
”He belongee too mtichee boilum tea” means “He has boiled
the tea too long.” Can do is used for yes, or as a form of
interrogation. The Chinese servant will seldom use the word
yes, and when he docs use it, he often means no. There is no
word for or no in the Chinese language. Maskee is
a very useful word which means all right, correct, never
mind, however, but, anyhow, and nevertheless. Chop chop is
equivalent to hurry— seldom met with in China. Chop, when
used alone, means trademark, brand, or name. ^^Nnmber one
means “first-class quality.” IValkee is used for all forms
of travel motion or pro'grcss. Not only men and horses, but
boats, birds and wagons ivalkee. Chit is a letter, but more often
it is the memorandum of indebtedness wliich you sign at the
hotel or club. Cumshaw is a tip or present. It need not be
large, but is always expected. If you eat a meal in a Chinese
restaurant, ten per cent will ^be added to your bill as a
cumshaw for the waiter. Pace: character, self-esteem. To
lose face is the worst punishment a Chinese can endure.
hmsh IS complete, or exhausted. When your boy tells you
/f^ finish,” ht means there is no more ice. How
wu form of interrogation meaning Why? or
What ,s the nutter? When the boy tells vou “Ice have
finish yen should ask “How fashion?” to which he will
ahnost invarubly reply “My no savvey,’- meaning that he
. nows nothing of the reason for its finishing and disclaims all
anTmeln^M Portuguese dies
and means Idol, god or luck. A foss-pidg in-man is, literally.
a God-busmess-man, or a clergyman. Larn-pidgin is the
pprcntice, who without pay will do most of the work around
PIDGIN ENGLISH
31
your house and be blamed by the regular servants for every-
thing that goes wrong. Look-see^pidgin is the general term
applied to everything done for show or effect and is used for
all forms of hypocrisy. Plopa is the Chinese pronunciation of
proper and is used for right, correct, or nice.
Prof. E. H. Parker in his delightful book John Chinaman
gives the following exaniple of a typical pidgin conversation
between himself and a Canton barber;
‘*Mornin*, barber-man.”
“Mornin’, Missi Consun; wanchee my cuttee heh?”
“Yes; no wanchee cuttce too muchee; can cuttee littee/'
“Oil ligh ! My savee. My cuttee any man heh ; plento
man catchee my shabe he, ebbily mornin’. Beforetime Hong-
kong gobbunor olio time my shabe he.”
“What ting have got to-day, barber-man ?”
“New piecy wicc-loy hab go ngamhn {yamhi) to*day.”
“That Chinaman talkee he belong good man?”
“No man savey ; moos wait li^tee time, can see. Some
man talkee he moos wanchee stop hit gambaloo.”
“Have got too muchee gamble-houscc that creek side !”
“Yih ! Beforetime Sir Block Eobisson no pay he stop lat
side.^*
“What for that viceroy he soldier-man no look out?'^
“He no likee. S’pose Missi Hance no bobbery [bother]
he, he no likee too hat [hard], Missi Hance no savey China
talkee : moos wanchee new piecy largce Consun talkee he.”
“Mr. Hance kr.<ew all about it: he told the flower-boats to
clear out long ago, and ^he wai-yun [the viceroy's deputy]
have got order.”
“Missi Hance numba one good man: he lat hat [that
heart] too muchee soft. My tinky Missi Consun too muchy
soft hat, too.”
“Any man talkee my so fashion? What ting that China-
man talkee my ?”
“Eat Chinaman talkee consun-si(Je too muchy bijinis;
Missi Consun any ting can makee. Maskee [never mind]
what ting, olio belong ploppa [proper].”
“Chinaman talky my so fashion ?”
32
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
“Yih ! Any man talky ; suppose no got Missi Consun, no
can ! ”
“What for no can? What thing my got number one?**'
“Olio man takee, fullin man come Canton ‘side, before-
time Missi Mayers numba one: Missi Mayers hab go way ;
olio Chinaman talky Missi Consun numba one onsz-tan
[understand]."
The most complete pidgin English vocabulary contains
but a few hundred words, and one who is used to a wider
selection of words will be surprised what a wide range
of conversational subjects these few hundred words will
cover. He should be careful, however, about the indis-
criminate use of pidgin English, for cultured Chinese
naturally dislike being addressed in that jargon. An old story
is told in the treaty ports of the recently arrived missionary
lady who sought the aid of the local mandarin in replacing
the mission organ which had been damaged by rain leaking
through a hole in the roof, “Have got before time one piecee
organ, belong makee sing song,” she explained. “Have puttee
organ house inside. Roof topside have makee break. Lain
come chop chop makee spoil urn organ. Just now must catchee
one more piecee.” The mandarin listened attentively but did
not appear to understand, so she repeated the story several
times. Finally the light of understanding broke over his face,
and he replied, “Ah, I understand. A rift in the lute, n'est~ce
/>ar?” He was a graduate of an American university and had
lived long in Paris.
Those who wish to pursue the study of pidgin English arc
advised to purchase those amusing little volumes Pidgin
English Sing Song by Charles G. Leland and Broken China
by A. P. Hill.
Routes and Fares.*— From America the principal routes
to China are by way of San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver.
Canadian Pacific steamers sail from the latter place direct to
*The information given here is only approximately correct for
both fares and routes are changing frequently in the readjustments
following the close’of the Great War.
routes and EARES
33
Yokohama. From San Francisco, the Pacific Mail, China
Mail, and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha offer sailings of approxi-
mately once a week. Steamers of alt three San Francisco
lines call at Honolutu, and at the principal ports in Japan
though some do not gall at Shanghai on the outward voyage,
going direct from Japanese ports to Hongkong. As there
are frequent sailings between Japan and China this need not
inconvenience the traveler. From Seattle, the Nippon Yusen
Kaisha and the Admiral line steamers sail fortnightly. All
these steamers call at Japanese ports, though only those
sailing from San Francisco call at Honolulu. The Nippon
Yusen Kaisha steamers also calf at Victoria, a few hours
from Vancouver.
The first class fare on the best steamers of the Canadian
Pacific, Pacifi: Mail, China Mail, Admiral and Toyo Kisen
Kaisha lines to Shanghai is $346 (U. S. currency.) Formerly
all steamship tickets from American ports to ports in China
included the option of free transportation over the Japanese
government railways from Yokohama to Kobe or Nagasaki,
where the steamer was rejoined but this arrangement is no
longer in effect. The China Mail, Toyo Kisen Kaisha and
Canadian Pacific lines maintain an intermediate service,
which is very popular. The intermediate steamers are some-
what smalleT and slower than the mail boats but in other
respects are satisfactory. They make the same stops at all
ports but sail less frequently. The intermediate fare is $269
(U. S.) Formerly special railway rates were offered in
connection with steamsbq) tickets, equalizing the fares
from practically all inland points in America to any sailing
point but this has been discontinued and domestic rates only
apply. Holders of first class steamship tickets are allowed
350 pounds of baggage on American railway lines and^ or.
Pacific steamers. In order to secure this baggage allowance
on the American railways, the steamship ticket or order
showing that a ticket has been purchased must be presented
when the baggage is checked.
From London, the quickest route to the Far East in
normal times was. by way of the Trans-Siberian railway,
34
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
which covered the distance from London to Shanghai in 14
days. At the time this edition goes to pr^ss the Trans-
Siberian route is entirely disorganized and there seems no
prospect that it will resume for many years. A number of
steamship lines connect Chinese ports vvith principal points
in Europe, including Peninsular and Oriental, fortnightly
sailings from London ; Mcssagerics Alaritimes, fortnightly
from Marseilles; Nippon Yusen Kaisha, fortnightly from
Royal Albert Docks, London; Lloyd Trestino, from Venice
and Trieste and Blue Funnel from London and Liverpool.
First class fares on these lines, from London to Hongkong
or Shanghai range from £104 to £150, with second class fare
£76 to £108. Intermediate service is offered at £120 first class
and £94 second. Quite a variety of routes are available by
these lines, all of which go via Suez. The time on the mail
steamers from Loudon to Hongkong is about 34 days, but by
traveling overland to Marseilles, this time may be reduced
six days. The intermediate steamers time is seven weeks.
Travel on some of the intermediate steamers offers the
advantage of longer stops at the pqi'ts so that one can often,
without leaving his ship, enjoy a fairly complete visit to
many interesting points between Cairo and China. The trip
from London to Shanghai, by way of Atlantic and Pacific
steamers and by rail across America, occupies 28 days by the
Vancouver route and 32 days by way of San Francisco, either
route being shorter than the route via Suez. The fare from
London to Shanghai by way of the United States or Canada
is dearer than by the Suez route and in addition to the
fare there is the expense of meals, sleepers and hotels on the
trans-continental journey.
A choice of several lines is possible from Australia.
Monthly sailings from Meibourne, Sydney and Brisbane are
offered by the Eastern and Australian Steamship Co and the
Nippon iTisen Kaisha. Vessels of both lines call at Hong-
kong, but do not call at Shanghai. The fare first class
Melbourne to Hongkong is £54.
Round trip tickets on some lines are offered at slightly
reduced rates, usually 5 to 10 per cent less than the price of
I'ULEGRAMS and posts
35
two single tickets. The principal lines sailing from Pacific
coast ports have a rrangements whereby a passenger may stop
over and continue his journey on vessels of another line.
Complete details of these arrangements should be learned
before the ticket is purchased.
In addition to these lines of mail steamers, there are a
number of freight lines which ply between New York, Lon-
don, Marseilles, Antwerp and ports in China. Seme of these
freighters carry accommodation for a few passengers, at
fairly cheap rates. The amount of comfort passengers would
enjoy is determined largely by the class of cargo carried and
the season in which the voyage is made.
Laws and Passports. — All foreigners in China are exempt
from the application of Chinese laws, and are subject only to
the laws of their own country, and to trial by their own
consul, or courts of their own country. At Shanghai there
are British and American Supreme courts and other courts
representing different nationalities. For this reason a pass-
port is of special value in order to establish ones nationality
and all who stay for any length of time in the country should
register at his consulate. Those who plan extensive trips in
the interior of China should consult their respective consuls
and secure special passports issued by the Chinese government.
They are required of all who travel more than 30 miles from
ai treaty port except on steamers carrying a foreign flag, on
trains, etc.
Telegrams and Posts* — The only inland telegram system
in China is the Chinese Telegraph Administration, owned by
the Chinese government, and under Chinese management.
Telegrams in foreign lainguages arc transmitted at rates twice
as high as those .charged for Chinese messages. In sending
Chinese telegrams, a code book is used, in which all Chinese
characters are numbered. The numbers are telegraphed,
according to the Morse system, and the receiver fills in the
Chinese characters from a similar code book. China has
more than 25,000 miles of telegraph lines connecting all prin-
cipal points. The Chinese post office has developed into a
very efficient organization, reaching almost every corner of
36
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
the country, and afTording communication at very reasonable
rates. Letters to countries in the postal union, ten cents
per ounce. The Chinese post office handles correspondence
addressed in the Romanized version of Chinese names and
shows remarkable ability in deciphering the many spellings
which are used. In addition to the Chinese post offices more
than sixty agencies of foreign post offices are maintained at
the various treaty ports.
Chinese Names.— The lack of uniformity in the Romaniz-
ed spelling of Chinese names is often a source of confusion.
Wheii foreigners first came to China they either expressed
Chinese sounds with their own alphabets or gave their own
names to places. Arbitrary systems of spelling sprang up,
and though the Chinese post office has adopted an official
Romanization for all place names, there remain in 'common
usage many methods of spelling the same names. For
instance, Scochow is variously spelled, Suchow, Suchau, and
Soutcheou, while Shanghai will often be spelled Changhai,
Schanghae, etc. Further confusion arises from the fact that
many cities are known to foreigners by names which the
Chinese do not use. Canton is known to Chinese as Kw^ang-
chau fu. Chinese elso experience difficulty in finding the
phonetic equivalent of foreign names. The Fames family;
(Emma Fames was born in Shanghai) is known as Aemih;
Jardine is expressed by Cha-teen ; and Lane, Crawford, by
Lane, Ka-la-fat. In Chinese usage the family name is first,
thus Li Hung Chang was a member of the Li family and not a
“Mr. Chang'' as he was frequently called by American editors.
Place names in this book follow the spelling adopted by the
Chinese Post office.
Treaty Port— This is the term applied to those cities
wherein foreigners are allowed to reside and carry on business
by reason of agreements to that effect in various treaties or
voluntary concessions on the part of the government of
China. Foreigners are not allowed to hold land, reside, or
carry on business in any other places, though this restriction
does not apply to missionaries. In many of the treaty ports
TRSATY PORt
Z7
now open there are foreign settlements under the more or less
complete control of the foreign residents.
The treaty ports are as follows :
Port
Province
Date of Customs
Opening
Est^materD hi*
ncse Population
Aigun
fHeilungkiang)
July
igop
5, 800
Amoy
Fukien
April
1863
114,000
Antnng
(Shengking)
March
1007
34,000
Canton
Kuangtung
Oct.
1859
900, OCO
Changsha
Hunan
July
1904
250,000
Chefoo
Shantung
March
1862
54,000
Chinkiang
Kiangsu
April
1861
184,000
Chinwangtao
Chihli
Dec.
1901
5.000
Chungking
Szechuan
March
1891
614,500
Dairen ,
(Shengking)
July
1907
20,000
FoocHow
Fukien
July
1861
634,000
Hangchow
Chekiang
Oct.
1896
594,000
I^arbin
(Kirin)
July
1909
3,700
Hankow
Hupeh
Jan.
1862
826,000
Hunchun
(Kirin)
Jan.
1910
3.700
Ichang
Hupeh
April
1877
55.000
Kiaochoit
Shantung
July
1899
34,000
(Tsingtao) '
Kiukiang
Kiangsi
Jan.
i852
36,000
Kiungchow
Hainan
April
1876
43, OCO
(Hoiliow)
Konginoon
Kuangtung
March
1904
62,000
Kowloon
Kuangtung
April
1897
—
Lappa
Kuangtung
June
1871
—
Lungchingtsiin
(Kirin)
Jan.
1910
500
Lungchow
Kuangsi
June
1889
13,000
Manchouli
(Heilungkiang)
Feb.
1907
5, OCO
Mengtze
Yunnan
Aug.
1889
10,900
Nanking
Kiangsu
May
1899
269,000
Nanning
Kiangsi
Jan.
1907
40,000
Newchwang
^hengking
May
1864
61,000
Ningpo
Chekiang
May
1861
450,000
^tkhoi
Kuangtung
April
1877
20,000
3g HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Samshui
Kuangtung
June
1897
6,000
Sansing
(Kirin)
July
1909
22,500
Santuao
Fukien
May
1899
8,coo' "
Shanghai
Kiangsu
June
i8S4
651,000
Shasi
Hupeh
Oct.
1896
93,900
Soochow
Kiangsu
Sept.
1896
500.000
Suifenho
Kirin
Feb.
1908
1,5^0
Swatow
Kuangtung
Jan.
1S60
70,000
Szemao
Yunnan
Jan.
1897
15,000
Tatungkow
(Shengking)
March
1907
4,300
Tengyueh
Yunnan
May
1902
10,000
Tientsin
Chihli
May
1861
800, oco
Wenchow
Chekiang
April
1877
100,000
Wuchow
Kuangsi
June
1897
40,000
Wuhu
Anhui
April
00
98,000
Yatuiig
(Tibet)
May
1894
—
Yochow
Hunan
Nov.
1899
20,000
Names of territories enclosed in brackets do not belong to
the eighteen Provinces of China Proper*
Weights and Measurof.— It is only fair to the reader
to state at once that there are no weights and measures in
China as they are known in other countries. In theory the
system is a very fine one, being based on the decimal notation,
but in practice every dealer or every guild fixes an individual
standard which may or not be like that of any other dealer or
guild. Thus while the picul is a standard of weight in all
parts of the country, it is always necessary to determine how
• heavy the />/cu/ is. As the picul is composed of a variable
number of catties which may also vary in weight and as each
one of the smaller divisions of weight is subject to variations
it is quite impossible for any foreigner ever to tell just what
is meant bv a picul Says Dr. Arthur H. Smith in his Chinese
Characteristics: “So far is it from being true that ‘a pint is
a pound the world around,' in China a pint is not a pint, nor
is a pound a pound. Not only does the theoretical basis of
each vary, but it is a very common practice (as in the §ajt
monopoly, for example) to fix some purely arbitrary stand^fd,
such as twelve ounces, and call that a pound (catty). The
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
39
purchaser pays for sixteen ounces. and receives but twelve,
but then it is openly done by all dealers within the same range,
so that there is no fraud, and if the people think of it at all,
it is only as an old time custom of the salt trade. A similar
uncertainty prevails in the measurement of land. In some
districts the acre is half as large again as in others, and those
who happen to live on the boundary are obliged to keep a
double set of measuring apparatus, one for each kind of acre/*
The same author continues, in discussing the Chinese disregard
for accuracy — “Under these circumstances, it cannot be a
matter of surprise to find that the regulation of standards is
a thing which each individual undertakes for himself. The
steelyard maker perambulates the street, and puts in the little
dots (called ‘stars’) according to the preferences of each
customer, who will have not less than two sets of balances,
one for buying and one for selling. A ready-made balance,
unless it might be an old one, is not to be had, for the whole,
scale of standards is in a fluid condition, to be solidified
only by each successive purchaser.**
With the foregoing explanations the following tables of
weights and measures are appended:
measures oe weight
10 Li I Fen (Candareen)
10 Fen I Ch’ien (Mace)
10 Ch’ien i Liang (Tael)
l6 Liang i Chin (Kin) or Catty
100 Chin I Tan or Picul
For purposes of foreign trade these weights are fixed as
follows : —
I Liang 583.3 grs.— 1-1/3 oz.— 37.783 grammes
I Catty 1-1/3 lb. or 604.53 grammes
1 Picul 133-1/3 lbs. or 60.453 kilogrammes
According to the China Year Book, from which this
information is taken, the catty ranges in native trade from 12
to 43 1/2 ounces, and the number of catties to the picul will
vary from 90 to 280,
40
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
Measures oi? length
10 Fen I Ts’un (inch)
JO Ts’un I Ch’ih (foot)
10 Ch’ih I Chang (Pu or Kiing)
i8o Chang i Li
For purposes of the foreign customs trade the length of
the c/i’ih is fixed at 14. i inches or 0.358 metres, this arrange-
ment being reached in the Anglo-Chinesc agreement of 1858.
A //, theoretically 2,115 feet or two-fifths of a mile, is
usually regarded as a third of a mile. One will often find
that the distance from A to B is reckoned at 20 li while from
B to A is 25 li. This discrepancy is explained by the fact
that the road one way is uphill. In rainy weather when roads
become difficult the “distance’^ between points will increase
ro to 100 per cent.
Some of the “standard” lengths in various trades, etc. arc
as follow : —
Inches
Carpenter’s ch’ih 11.14
Mason’s „ 11.08(10.9)
Artisan’s „ 12.569
Board of Revenue’s „ 13181
Tailor’s „ 1385— 14-05
Customs House „ 14.098
Junk Builder’s „ ^5.769— 15.69
measures oe area
• In measures of area the following tables are used:—
10 Ssu r Hao
10 Hao I Li
10 Li I Fen
10 Fen I Mow
100 Mow I Ch’ing
25 Square Ch’ih pu or Kung
240 Pu I Mow
Mow I Ch’ing
weights and measures
41
TJje mow is known to most foreigners as consisting of
one-sixth of an English acre, that being the standard fixed in
Shanghai where the foreigners insist on knowing exactly what
is meant by the term. In other parts of China the mow
means whatever local custom may have established as its mean-
ing and nothing more. It is known to vary in different parts
of the country from one- fifteenth to one-third of an acre.
MEASURES OE CAPACITY
Measures of capacity are probably used less in China
than in any other country, for most fluids are sold by weight.
Wooden measures are used for retail transactions in rice and
grain but in the wholesale trade these commodities are sold
by weight. Most of the measures of capacity which one sees
in the rice dealers’ shops are really measures of weight, local
custom decreeing that a certain measure full of rice be equal
to one, five or ten catties. Though the Chinese merchant
always makes a concession to the customs of foreigners and
sells his silk by the 3'ard, the Chinese customer when buying
some qualities will pay for it by the ounce. Eggs, too, are
sold by weight rather than by the dozen as in our own en-
lightened land where we pay as much for a dozen small eggs
as for a dozen large ones. However, on the rare occasions
when the Chinese do use measures of capacity, their theoret-
ical table is as follows: —
10 Ko I Sheng
10 Sheng ? i Tow
10 Tow I Shill
These terms may mean much or little for the iozv accord-
ing to one authority ranges from 176 to 1800 cubic inches.
The Chinese themselves are becoming dissatisfied with this
confusion in weights .ind measures and there is reason to
believe that reforms are under way. Foreign standards are
used, of course, in foreign trade. Formerly the Chinese peo*
pie traveled about very little and they were not greatly incon-
venienced by the different standards which existed in other
parts of the cousitry. Now with the building of railways,
there is a great deal of traveling about and the old standards
will not do.
4z
HANDBOOK ?OR CHINA
HISTORICAL SKETCH
ANDED down by legends, Chinese history
begins about 2500 B.C. with the reign of
the three emperors, v/ho in a remark-
ably short space of time brought a bar-
barous people to a comparatively high
stage of civilization. The first of these
semi-mythical rulers was Fu Hsi (or
Fuhi), who instituted marriage, taught
the people to fish with nets, domesticated
the wild animals for their use, invented
the flute and lyre and replaced former
methods of communication (by means of
knots tied in strings) with a kind of pic-
ture language which has developed into
the present Chinese ideographs. His grave is now pointed out
in Chechow, Honan, where thousands assemble annually to do
reverence to his memory. The following emperor, Shen
Nung, carried the advance of the people still further. He
taught agriculture and the use of herbs as medicine, and is
now known as ** The Imperial Husbandman.*’ The third
emperor, Hwang-ti, extended the boundaries of the empire,
reformed the calendar, established cities, and introduced the
use of carts and boats, while his consort taught the rearing of
silkworms. Foreign historians regard these three emperors
as merely representative of different stages of early civiliza-
tion, while the Chinese ascribe to them supernatural qualities.
After the death of Hwang-ti several unimportant rulers
succeeded and a little later (B.C. 2357) the famous ruler Yao
was placed on the throne. He and his successor. Shun, are
doubtless the most popular figures in Chinese history. Dur-
ng the reign of Yao, China was harassed by a great flood,
which from the Chinese descriptions bears a resemblance to the
deluge of the Bible. The minister of public works having
failed to combat the flood, the task was undertaken by Yu, his
son. He built great canals, dug tunnels through mountains,
HISTORICAL SKETCH
43'
and at ilMigth the flood subsided, after having devastated the
country for nine years. He is credited with engineering feats
which would compare creditably with the building of the
Panama Canal.
Yao finally handed over the government to his colleague,
Shun, and he in turn gave it to Yu. Yao and Shun are
two of the greatest figures in Chinese history and historians
have vied with each other in ascribing to them every possible
virtue and holding them up as examples to be followed by all
other rulers. In the recent revolution, when the monarchy
was exhorted to hand over the government to the Republicans,
the examples of Yao and Shun in voluntarily surrendering the
throne were cited.
Yu, the canal builder, founded the first of China's long
succession of dynasties which lasted from 2205 B.C. to 1766
B.C. There were frequent revolutions in its history, as was
true of all succeeding dynasties, but the Chinese people con-
tinued to advance in the arts of civilization. The dynasty,
starting with the able and resourceful Yu, fell on evil days
and the eighteenth emperor, Kie, was a cruel tyrant, whose
name is synonymous with all that is infamous and vicious.
Tang, the Prince of Shang, led a revolt, overthrew Kie, and
established the Shang or Yin dynasty, which stood from
1766 to 1122 B.C. <Tang is accounted one of the great
emperors of China and many writers have competed in their
praise of him. After a successful revolt against Chou-sin,
the last ruler of the Shang dynasty, Wu Wang set up the
Chow dynasty and rewarded those who had helped him and
his father, the Duke of Chow, by granting them titles and
certain portions of the kingdom, establishing a feudal system,
notunlikethat of mediaeval Europe. He also fortified his
position as emperor by the introduction of elaborate court
<;eremonial, and introduced distinctive court and ceremonial
dress. The dynasty was the longest in the history of China,
extending from 1122 B.C. to 249 B.C., a period of almost goo
years. The undisputed portion of Chinese history begins with
this period, for the stories of the earlier are mainly based
on records which both Confucius and Mencius showed to be
44
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
unreliable, and the present accepted chronology was not
known until after the time of Confucius. Indeed no dates in
Chinese history earlier than B.C.722 are authentic, but records
existing at that time show such a high state of civilization
as to corroborate the Chinese claims for the great antiquity
of their race. The Chow dynasty is notable for the fact that
during its rule the three great philosophers, Confucius, Men-
cius and Laotze were born.
The feudal system which had been established by the
founder of the dynasty at length resulted in great growth for
the various feudal states, at the expense of the central govern-
ment. As the centuries passed, the fiction of allegiance to
the central power became less, and the rival states engaged in
petty warfare among themselves, stronger states gobbling up
the weaker ones, until finally there arose the Napoleon of
China, a man strong enough to conquer all others and unite
the country under one rule. This was Shih liwang-ti, the
Duke of Tsin, who overthrew the thirty-fifth and last emperor
of the dynasty and in 221 B.C. established the Tsin or Chin
dynasty. From that date China remained an empire for
more than two thousand years, though the throne passed to
many houses. Although it was divided several times between
rival thrones, these short periods but briefly interrupted
the unity of the country.
Shih Hwang-ti, who assumed the title of emperor, realized
the weaknesses of the former administration and abolished the
feudal system. In its place he divided the country into a
number of provinces, over each of which he appointed a gov-
ernor-general. He removed his capital to Hienyang, now
known as Sianfu, and there built a magnificent palace which
far surpassed any previous architectural attempts in China.
His reign was one of great internal development, for he con-
structed many roads and canals. But a part of the people
refused to accept his reign without protest and the scholars
continued to tell of the glories of the old feudal system and to
insist that it be restored. As a reprimand to them and as an
indication that his dynasty liad begun anew and would not be
bound by traditions or precedents he ordered all the books of
HISTORICAL sketch
45
the empire burned, including the vast libraries which previous
monarchs had collected. The only exceptions to this order
were books on astrology, divination, medicine and husbandry.
Asa means of silencing the he ordered several hun-
dred of them buried alive. These orders have caused his name
to be execrated by all Chinese scholars since that time.
The empire of China had by this time extended from the
original scat near Sianfu until it comprised what is now
China proper, north of the Yangtsze river. The extension of
the northern boundaries had brought the Chinese into contact
with the Tartar tribes of the north, and Shih Hwang- ti built
the great wall around the confines of his kingdom to protect
it from Tartar attacks. Work on this great undertaking was
begun in 214 B.C. What is now Chinese Turkestan became
a Chinese colony and caravans passed through establishing
trade with Persia and Rome. Shih Hwang-ti died six years
after work on the Great Wall was begun and the throne
passed to his youngest son, with the title of Second Emperor.
Defeated rulers of the old feudal states were naturally jealous
of the success of the Duke of Tsin and one of them, the Prince
of Han, led a successful revolt against the Second Emperor,
who was put to death after a short and inglorious reign. This
dynasty lasted but fifteen years, the shortest of all in the his-
tory of China. It receives little praise from the Chinese his-
torians but it gave to China the name by which the country
has since been known to foreigners. The word Tsin or Chin
became corrupted into China.
The Han dynasty marked the establishment of the unity
of the Chinese people, and the Chinese, with the exception of
the Cantonese, still call themselves *‘The sons of Han.” The
Prince of Han began his reign by repealing the decree re-
garding the destruction of books, and aided in the restoration
of the burned libraries. He set the example for future rulers
by offering sacrifice at the tomb of Confucius, and the dynasty
originated the literary examinations on which China’s great
civil-service system was formed. The struggles with the
northern tribes began during this reign, the most serious be-
ing with the tribes of Mongolia, ancestors of the Huns with
46
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
whom Attila, 600 years later, scourged Europe. However
the territory of the country was enlarged, taking in a large
section south of the Yangtszc and the present province ot
Kansu.
The power of the Han dynasty declined after nearly two
centuries of rule, one of the causes being an outbreak of
pestilence which continued for eleven years. A Taoist priest
claimed to have discovered a magical cure for the pestilence
and on the strength of this claim secured enough followers to
take possession of some of the northern provinces and serious-
ly threaten the throne. Wang Mang, Tung Cho and Tsao
Tsao, who hive since been known to history as the “Three
Traitors,” took advantage of this period of disorder to seize
the throne and divide the empire into three parts, each of them
appropriating one of the kingdoms.
Although they had divided the country amicably, the
three kingdoms did not remain at peace and the 45 years
which this period of the three kingdoms endured were marked
by continual warfare between them. This was China's period
of chivalry and a great many of the most popular poems and
dramas are founded on the stirring events and deeds of daring
which occurred during the time. In the end the Kingdom
of Wei triumphed and assumed rule over the others. The
occupants of the throne were descendants of the founder of the
Han dynasty, so Chinese history regards the period of the three
Kingdoms as merely an interruption of the Han reign.
After the linal downfall of the Han dynasty there was
constant warfare for the mastery of the country and several
short-lived dynasties succeeded, these being Tsi (479 to 502).
Liang (502 to 557), Chen (557 to 589), and Sm (589 to 619).
Tai-tsung at length conquered the country, establishing
the Tang dynasty which existed from 619 to 902, during
which time the frontier of China was extended to eastern
Persia and the Caspian Sea. During this dynasty lived Em-
press Wu Hou, one of the consorts of Kao-tsong, who seized
supreme power and ruled the country for some time. Her
accession to authority established the precedent which enabled
the late Empress Dowager, Yehonola, to rule China during the
HISTORICAL SKETCH
47
latter part of the last and the beginning of the present century.
The peace of the country was disturbed several times by
Tartar attacks and by internal rebellions, all of which were put
down, Korea was conquered and made a vassal state in the
hope that it would serve as a buffer against the Tartar attacks.
The Emperor Wu-tsung who began a rule of six years in
841 abolished all nunneries and monasteries and ordered all
missionaries out of the country. Buddhism, however, soon
revived and was given a semblance of state sanction a few
years later when an Emperor claimed to possess one of the
bones of Buddha. The history of the latter part of the
dynasty is chiefly a record of a feeble government which was
finally overthrown. There followed five brief dynasties under
which the country was ruled from 907 to 960. These dynas-
ties were little more than military despotisms, set up by suc-
cessive victorious generals.
The next substantial dynasty was the Sung (960 to 1280),
but it was not allowed to rule undisturbed. The Tartars
continued to grow in strength and in 1125 successfully renew*
ed their attacks, taking possession of the capital at Kaifeng,
Honan, and forcing the emperor to pay tribute. Probably the
tribute remittances were not sent promptly, for the Tartars
came again and, just as they had done 700 years before, con-
quered all of the northern part of the country, the Chinese
retaining possession of the southern part. The Emperor
removed his capital, first to Nanking, and then to Hangchow.
A few years later, Ghengis Khan began the conquest of
the country, having previously formed a confederacy of the
Mongol states. They found their hardest foes would be the
Tartar occupants of the north, so a treaty was entered into
with the Sung Emperor, wherein it was agreed that he should
join forces with the Mongols to drive out the Tartars, and
should occupy Honan undisturbed. The Tartar tribes having
been defeated, the Sung rulers moved into Honan, in accord-
ance with the terms of the treaty, but were ordered to evacuate.
The work of conquest so ably begun by Ghengis Khan
was carried on by his json Ogotai, who conducted expeditions
overrunning Poland, Hungary and Russia. Kublai Khan
48
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
grandson of Ghengis, followed as the Mongol leader and com-
pleted the work of conquest. His armies were sent against
the Chinese and the Sung dynasty was wiped out, the last
Emperor being drowned near Canton.
The conquest of China, which had occupied the attention
of the Mongols for more than lOo years, was completed in
1260, when the Yuan dynasty was set up, a dynasty which
was destined to remain in power a shorter period than that
occupied by the conquest.
Kublai Khan made partially successful attempts to rec-
oncile the people to his alien rule, and then began fresh at-
tempts at conquest. An attack on Japan failed, but Annam
was added to the list of tributary states and remained so until
it became a dependency of France in 1864. The Burmese
were forced to pay tribute. The Emperor was as energetic
in public works at home as he was in conquests abroad and
is credited with adding many improvements to the Grand
Canal, which was widened and lengthened. It was during his
reign that Marco Polo, the Venetian adventurer, visited the
country and gave to Europe its first authentic and detailed
knowledge of the Great Khan.
The idea of foreign rule was hateful to the Chinese and
many secret societies sprang into existence having for their
purpose the overthrow of the Mongol rule.
At length the long-threatened revolt broke out, headed by
an obscure servant in a Buddhist temple north of Nanking.
The Mongols had lost their prowess as fighting men and so
great was the hostility to them that the rebels met with little
resistance. As the leader captured one section of the country
he established law and order and left the people of that district
to live in peace while he went on with his victorious army.
In 1355 he captured Nanking and thirteen years later, when
master of the entire empire, he proclaimed himself emperor
with tile reign title Piling Wu, establishing the Ming dynasty.
It was during this dynasty that China began to come more
in contact with European nations. In 1511 Portuguese traders
arrived at Canton and received a friendly reception. Six
years later Fernando Peres de Andrade entered Canton and
HISTORICAL SKETCH
4P
was allowed to proceed to Peking, the capital of the Mings.
A short time later, his brother Simon arrived on the Southern
coast, and not being satisfied with the reception he received,
committed depredations on the coast, from Foochow to Ning-
po. The Chinese retaliated by killing many of the Portuguese
and Andrade was put to death. In 1622 the Dutch appeared,
were driven off by the Chinese, and retired to Formosa, where
they established posts protected by forts.
The Ming dynasty, after ruling nearly three hundred
years, fell before the Manchus, a tribe of Tartars living near
the present city of Moukden. One of the last Ming emperors
neglected the administration of the country to meddle in the
affairs of the border tribes and in doing this earned the re-
sentment of the Manchus. Nurhachu, the Manchu chieftain,
led an attack against the Chinese and in 1618 invaded the
Liaotung Peninsula. The invaders put to rout the Chinese
who opposed them and on capturing a city compelled the
Chinese to shave the front part of their heads and braid their
hair into queues,' as a sign of their subjection to the invaders.
This was the origin of the queue which became such a distin-
guishing characteristic of the Chinese during the rule of the
Manchus and has, since their overthrow, been slowly disap-
pearing.
The Chinese brought cannon from Macao with which to
defend themselves against the invaders and succeeded in hold-
ing them in check. In the meantime two rebels, Li Tzu
Cheng and Cheng Hsien Chung, starting from Shansi and
Shensi, met with great success and overran a large part of the
Empire. The rebel Li assumed the title of Emperor and
advanced on Peking. Chuang Lieh, the last Ming Emperor,
committed suicide when a treacherous eunuch opened the
city gates for the rebels.
General Wu Sen Kwei, who was holding back the in-
vaders at the border, determined to avenge the death of his
Emperor, and like the Sungs several hundred years before,
entered into an agreement with the Manchus who were to aid
him in driving out the rebels. The allies marched on Peking,
routed the rebels, and General Wu pursued them to the South.
50
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
Returning to Peking he found that the Manchu Regent had
placed his nephew on the throne with the title of Emperor
and inaugurated the Ts^ing dynasty. The Chinese in the
South struggled for fifteen years against this usurpation of
power, but in the end were compelled to acquiesce in the
Manchu rule.
Exclusiveness and intolerance of any intercourse with
foreigners distinguished the foreign relations of the country
during almost the whole of the Manchu reign. In 163s Eng-
land had granted a charter to English merchants authorising
them to trade in China and as a result Captain Weddell sailed
for the East with a small fleet of vessels. Passing forts on
his way to Canton, his fleet was fired on. He retaliated and
silenced the forts. The Chinese authorities then granted the
right to trade at Canton, subject to heavy restrictions.
The value and importance of Chinese trade became
better known and in 1793 England sent Lord MacCartney
to negotiate a treaty with China providing for better relations
between the two countries, but little was accomplished. About
twenty years later Lord Amherst headed another embassy from
England but was not received by the Emperor. For more
than forty years after the embassy of Lord MacCartney, Eng-
land continued her unsuccessful efforts to secure from China
some satisfactory agreement providing for trade relations be-
tween the two countries.
During this period all English trade with China was in
the hands of the East India Company, but the monopoly came
to an end in 1834. On the Chinese side, all foreign trade
had been in the hands of a monopoly similar to that of the
East India Company, the famous Co-hong of Canton. In fact
all foreign commercial relations had been delegated to this
guild of Canton merchants, with which the foreigners could
deal and which had the authority to place many restrictions
on foreign trade. Although England ended her monopoly, the
Chinese saw no reason for similar action. The Co-hong was
unwilling to relinquish its rights and the foreigners had no
means of dealing directly with the government. At that time
the foreign traders were limited to a small section of Canton,
HISTORICAL SKETCH
51
where they could reside. They could sell their goods only to
members of the Co-hong and make purchases from them alone.
No one was allowed to teach them the language and they
could not leave the confines of their residence area without a
Chinese guard, nor were they allowed to go into the city of
Canton. Strained relations between foreigners and Chinese
resulted. The Manchu government at Peking all along took
the attitude that commerce was beneath the dignXy of the Son
of Heaven and did not deign to notice it.
About 1856 the Chinese government did deign to notice
foreign trade, for it became alarmed over the outflow of silver,
a great part of this being due to the sale of opium smuggled in
by foreigners often with the connivance of Chinese officials.
In 1839 it was decided to make a determined effort to abolish
the opium traffic, which had been introduced into China from
India. A commissioner appointed to carry out the plans of
the government arrived in Canton, seized the opium in the for-
eign warehouses, more than 20,000 chests were destroyed.
Further demands were made on the foreign merchants
and a year later war broke out between Great Britain and
China. China was worsted on every side, but the conflict
dragged on until the arrival of Sir Henry Pottinger, in 1841.
The war was then carried to the North, Sir Henry being in-
structed to make terms of peace with no authority less than
that of the Imperial government. The fleet sailed up the coast,
taking, in rapid succession, Amoy, Ningpo, Woosung and
Shanghai, then proceeded up the Yangtsze and bombarded
Chinkiang. By the time Nanking was reached, twe imperial
commissioners were there waiting to arrange for peace.
The treaty of Nanking was concluded on August 29,
1842. It provided that Canton, Shanghai, Amoy, Foochow,
and Ningpo be opened as treaty ports where foreigners could
reside and carry on their trade. .^ The island of Hongkong was
ceded to Great Britain and an indemnity of 21 million dollars
was to be paid, 6 million of wliich was for the opium de-
stroyed. Fair tariff rates were to be maintained at the treaty
ports and communication between the two nations was to be on
terms of equality. Similar treaties were then concluded with
IIANDECOK FOR CHINA
52
the United States and with France. Under the provisions of
this treaty, foreign firms were established at the five ports and
the foreign residents of China greatly increased in number.
A few missionaries had been sent to the country before this
time, but with the opening up of the ports, more active work
was possible.
In 1S51 Emperor Hicn Feng ascended the throne and
about the same time the Taiping Rebellion broke out under
the leadepship of Hung Hsio-chuen. The teaching of a
Protestant missionary in Canton was the indirect and innocent
cause of the rebellion, for Hung, with half-formed ideas of
Christianity, became a fanatic. For a time he organized a
religious society near Canton, the object of which was to
destroy idols. As the society grew in membership it became
political and anfei-dynastic. Hung announced himself as the
“Heavenly King" and led his forces against government troops
with the purpose of overthrowing the Manchus. The rebels
marched northward to the Yangtsze valley sacking cities and
devastating the country through which they passed. There is
scarcely a city of the Yangtsze valley which does not show
today some evidences of their visits. They seized Flanyang,
Wuchang, Hankow, Anking, Kiukiang and Nanking, the latter
dty being selected as the Taiping capital. In 1853 an expedition
was sent from there against Peking, but was repulsed at
Tientsin. Ei Hung Chang, who was then a young officer in
Anhui, first came into prominence as a result of this rebellion.
He employed two Americans, Ward and Burgevine, to com-
mand an army which had greater success against the rebels
than attended the efforts of the regular Imperial forces.
While this rebellion was progressing northward, the
friendly relations which had been established between Great
Britain and China again became strained. The Chinese com-
plained that opium was being smuggled into the mainland of
China from Hongkong by means of vessels flying the British
flag. The British asserted that they were still harassed by
useless and malicious trade restrictions. The Chinese auth-
orities seized and threw into jail the native crew of the
''Arrow," a small vessel flying the British flag, and the nego-
HISTORICAL SKETCH
53
tiations which followed led to serious difference of opinion,
both sides preparing for war.
The first contingent of British troops was sent out in 1857
under Lord Elgin, who had been appointed Lord High Com-
missioncr for Great Britain, but the force of 5000 men with
which he started was diverted to India to help put down the
Sepoy mutiny. Meanwhile a French missionary had been
murdered by the Chinese and the French government took
this as a deciding reason for joining with the British.
The tw'o forces sailed up the coast and easily took the
Taku forts, when peace terms were discussed. It was agreed
that Newchwang, Formosa, Sw^atow, and Kiungchow be opened
as additional treaty ports and the British be given the privilege
of trading on the Yangtsze river. An indemnity of 2 million
taels was to be paid to each government and the tariff revised.
The following year had been set for ratification of the
treaties, but the Chinese refused to agree on any place for ex-
change of ratifications. The two fleets proceeded to Tientsin
and found the harbor blocked with piling and heavy chains,
while they were fired on by the Taku forts. Another force of
20,000 men which was sent out captured the forts. The
Chinese '.ued for peace, but British emissaries sent to meet the
officials coming from Peking were captured and thrown into
prison. The forces advanced on the capital and a new treaty
v/as signed October 22, i860, the original indemnity being
increased to 8 million taels. Kowloon, on the mainland near
the island of Hongkong, was ceded to Great Britain and
Tientsin was opened as a treaty port.
While the Imperial forces were engageef with their foreign
adversaries, the Taipings had taken advantage of the oppor-
tunity to extend their operations and resumed possession of a
section south of the Yangtsze river. When the rebellion
started it was believed to be inspired by purely Christian
motives and foreigners who had long since grown tired of the
evasions and deceptions of the Manchu government readily
gave their sympathy to the Taipings, while misinformed
missionary societies in England and America held prayer
meetings for the success of the rebellion. But the quasi-
54
HANDBOOK ?OH CHINA
religious motives in which the rebellion orgihated soon
disappeared and when missionaries called on the “Heavenly
King” at Nanking they found him an arrogant fanatic living a
dissolute life which gave the lie to his religious pretensions.
Foreign sympathy finally veered to the side of the Im-
perialists and foreigners took an active part in the fighting
against the Taipings. General Ward was killed while leading
an attack against the rebels and then Great Britain loaned to
the Imperial government the services of Captain C. E. Gordon
of the British army to take the place of General Ward. Cap-
tain Gordon reorganized the Imperial forces, placed them
under foreign officers and continued the successes of his pre-
decessor. He finally secured the surrender of the rebel strong-
hold of Soochow, making an agreement that the lives of the
leaders should be spared. Ei Hung Chang broke faith with
the rebels and had the leaders beheaded, whereupon Captain
Gordon refused to remain with the army.
However, his work was completed, for soon thereafter
Nanking fell before the Imperial army, which had kept it in a
state of siege for eleven years, and the rebellion ended in 1864.
Some of the leaders committed suicide and the others who
escaped execution quickly dispersed. The rebellion ceased to
be and the rebels returned to their farms and shops as quickly
as they had taken up arms. But the country had suffered
devastation which is still attested to by the ruins of cities.
Over 20 million lives had been lost and half the country
plunged into extreme poverty.
Hien Feng died in i85i, leaving as the heir to the throne
his son, T'ung-chi, a child of five years. What proved more
important in the future history of China was the fact that he
was survived by Tsze Hsi, the little emperor’s mother, who,
owing to the birth of the child, had been raised from the
position of favorite concubine to that of Imperial consort.
With the legitimate empress, who was childless, Tsze Hsi
became joint regent. For fourteen years, the two empresses
ruled, the mother of the emperor by virtue of her superior
abilities slowly gaining the ascendancy. But in his nineteenth
year the young emperor died, an event not unwdeome to the
•HISTORICAL SKETCH
55
plotters around the throne who hoped tli-. reby to be able to
seize power for themselves.
In this conflict the Empress Dowager, Tsze Hsi, outwitted
them all, and secured the selection of the infant son of her
sister who had married a brother of Hien-Feng. This coup
gave her renewed power and prolonged the regency in which
she had, by this time, become dominant. The infant Emperor,
Kwang Hsu, ascended the throne in 1875 while the Empress
Dowager continued the dominating figure in all governmental
affairs. • His selection had been prompted by her boundless
ambition and in it she had violated one of the most sacred
traditions of the Chinese. The conditions of ancestor W'orship
demanded that each successor to the throne be of a generation
just succeeding that of his predecessor. Kwang Hsu did not
fulfil that condition, for he was a first cousin of the un-
fortunate Emperor whom he followed. There were many
criticisms of this act in China, and the prestige of the Manchu
court was weakened in the eyes of the Chinese.
Korea had long been a vassal state and foreigners natur-
ally looked to China to redress any wrongs they might suffer
there. In 1866 some French missionaries were murdered in
Korea, and soon thereafter an American vessel was burned
and members of the crew killed. Both France and the United
States demanded satisfaction but China replied that she was
not accustomed to interfere in the affairs of her vassal states
and paid no attention to the reprisals made by both France and
America. Shortly after this Japan found it necessary to
retaliate for Korean attacks on a Japanese gunboat. The
Korean government was compelled to pay an indemnity and
to open up the country for intercourse with Japan. In order
to neutralize the predominant Japanese influence established
by this arrangement, the Chinese government threw Korea
open to the whole world. -
France, in 1864, kad annexed Cochin-China, under the
pretext that France was the protector of the Roman Catholic
missions. Twenty years later France manifested desires for
Tonkin, north of Aiinani, as a country which would enable it to
tap the province of Yunnan*. Tonkin appealed to China for
56
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
protection. Negotiations followed and China agreed to cede
some territory fo France. When French troops came to take
possession of these places, they were fired on by the local
garrison, owing to the fact that no date had been set for the
actual transfer and the Chinese garrison was not advised
of the arrangement.
Although the two countries were actually at war, follow-
ing this occurrence, the fiction was kept up that each was
engaging in reprisals. The French fleet entered the harbor at
Foochow and after lying at anchor there for several weeks
opened fire on the Chinese fleet, gaining an easy victor^'.
Strongholds in Formosa and the Pescadores were taken as
easily. In the meantime the Chinese troops gained such suc-
cesses over the French on land that the latter were content
to forget their early demands for a heavy indemnity, and the
final terms of peace, concluded June 9, 1885, cast no discredit
on China. She gave up her claims to Tonkin while France
agreed to respect China’s southern frontier. The conflict
ended with a gain in prestige to China for .she had been able
to hold her own with a fzrst-class power.
Another break with Japan came in 1894. Each country
had agreed not to land troops in Korea without giving formal
notice to the other but China ignored this agreement when
serious disturbances broke out in Korea. Japan protested and
China agreed to withdraw the forces but while this arrangement
was being perfected a steamer arrived with more Chinese
troops. A mutiny on board made it impossible for the Chinese
commander to comply with the Japanese demands for a sur-
render. Japanese cruisers opened fire and sank the transport.
War was declared at once.
If the war with France had given the Chinese an ex-
aggerated idea of their fighting abilities, the conflict with
Japan soon created a different impression for it was immediately
apparent that she was no match for her small but aggressive
neighbor. The cause which probably contributed most to the
defeat of the Chinese was found in their own official corrup-
tion. The funds which had been raised several years before
for the building of a modern navy had been diverted by the
HISTORICAI. SKKTC«
57
Empress Dowager and used for the construction of a Summer
Palace. Only old vessels remained in the navy, and these
were improperly supplied with ammunition. The vessels were
either sunk or put to flight and the Japanese then made a suc-
cessful attack on Port Arthur, which the Chinese deemed im-
pregnable.
The Treaty oE Shiinonoseki was signed as a result of this
war and China suffered heavily. The independence of Korea
was recognized; Formosa and the Pescadores were ceded to
Japan; an indemnity of 200 million taels was agreed to;
Shasi, Chungking, Soochow, and Hangchow were to be
opened as treaty ports. The war had conclusively proven
the weakness of China and in the next few years she suffered
many acts of foreign aggression as a result.
During the drawing up of the Shimonoseki treaty, Russia
interfered, apparently on behalf of China, to prevent the lease
of Port Arthur to Japan. Shortly after the treaty was signed,
however, Russia forced China to lease this important fortress
to her, thereby giving her one of the strongest naval bases in
the world. The murder of two German missionaries was the
pretext by which Germany in 1898 seized Kiaochow, in Shan-
tung. It is here that they built up the important commercial
centre of Tsingtau which in the recent great war fell into the
hands of the Japanese. Great Britain leased Weihaiwei, in
return for assistance in paying the indemnity to Japan, France
secured Kwanchowman, in Kwantung, declaring this was
necessary in order restore the balance of power in the
Far East." -
In the early Summer of 1898, Emperor Kwang Hsu, who
had previously left all governmental affairs to his sunt, the
Empress Dowager, took over affairs of government himself.
To the surprise of everyone he entered on a series of reforms
as ambitious as they were visionary. He gathered about him
some of the most radical reformers in the country and for 100
days issued edict after edict which threw down established
institutions and set up new ones. The Manchu nobles were
to be sent abroad that travel might broaden their minds,
Temples w'ere to be replaced by schools in which western
58
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
learning was taught, and the publication of newspapers, which
hitherto had bee‘n studiously suppressed, was to be encouraged
and promoted.
The reactionary forces set in before any of these proposed
reforms were effective. The Manchu nobles appealed to the
old Empress Dowager to assert her rights as an ‘'ancestor*^
and again take over the control of the government. In Sep-
tember 189S the visionary period of reform came to an
inglorious end. The Emperor was seized by a band of palace
guards and for the rest of his life remained a virtual prisoner
completely under the domination of his aunt. In a very short
space of time all the reform edicts had been nullified and
the government of China was again in the hands of the reac-
tionaries, many of the reformers being executed.
A similar reaction took place in the provinces. The
chagrin at the defeat of China by Japan had led to an
increased interest in and demand for western learning, and
many societies had been formed for the translation of western
books into Chinese. The change came with the acts of ag-
gression by the foreign powers and the granting of the railway
concessions. This anti- foreign feeling was most intense in
Shantung, where it resulted in the organization of the Boxers,
a fanatical secret society having for its purpose the driving out
of all foreigners from China and the complete elimination of
foreign influence. The leaders declared themselves immune
from harm by foreign bullets and gave each member a talis-
man which would insure similar protection for him. The
movement rapidly grew in strength under th« v^ncouragement
of officials.
In May and June, igoo, the long-threatened trouble broke
out and not until then did foreigners appreciate the gravity of
the situation. A number of Shantung villages occupied by
Christian converts were destroyed, the converts massacred
and several missionaries killed. The whole of North China
was overrun by Boxers who tore* up railway tracks robbed,
looted, and massacred. In a short time they had reached the
capital itself, and the city was thrown into a turmoil of excite-
iNout. A small mixed body of marines was lufrriedly brought
HISTORICAL SKETCH
59
to guard the Legations. Foreign residents hastily gathered in
the Legation compounds and a state of siege began in the
early part of June. The Chancellor of the Japanese Legation
and Baron von Ketteler, the German Minister, were murdered*
From June 14, Peking was entirely cut off from communication
with the rest of the world and little was known of the
Legations until almost two months later.
A mixed force of about 2000 men consisting of British,
French, German, Russian, Austrian, American, Japanese and
Italian troops left Tientsin early in June to repair the railway
to Peking. It was set upon by large bands of Boxers and
retreated with a great deal of difficulty, the loss of life being
heavy. The foreign settlements in Tientsin were attacked
and, fearing that an attempt would be made to cut off com-
munication with the sea, the allied foreign admirals captured
the Taku forts. Reinforcements of foreign troops arrived and
Tientsin was cleared of Boxers, but with a loss to the allies of
over 700 killed and wounded.
After the taking of the Taku forts, China rashly declared
war on the rest of the world and there was no longer any
doubt as to the issues. Regular Chinese soldiers joined the
Boxer forces and all of the resources of the govenment were
pitted against the allied troops.
Many additional forces were sent to Tientsin to join in
the relief of the Legations, but international jealousies and
misunderstandings contributed to inexcusable delays. On
July 6, the Japanese government decided to embark two
divisions which had been mobilized. British troops from
India began to arrive in the early part of August and at the
same time American troops from Manila. A relief column of
20,000 men set out for Peking on August 4 and after meeting
with many difficulties and some loss of life arrived there on
August 13 and on the following day entered the city and
raised the siege. The Boxers during ail this time had kept
the Legations constantly under fire and there had been heavy
loss of life. The band of marines, bluejackets, soldiers and
civilians who made lip the guard for the Legations had never
numbered more than 560 and at the time the siege was raisc'd,
60
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
90 had been l<illcd and 131 wounded. When the foreign
troops entered, the Empress Dowager and the Emperor fled ^
from Peking to Sianfu.
Peking had suffered terribly from the Boxer activities.
In their efforts to destroy all foreign property, fires had been
set whicli spread over a large part of the city, destroying the
business section. Foreign and Chinese houses alike had been
looted, and a great part of the city was in ruins. The arrival
of the allied forces added to the devastation for the soldiers
looted uninterruptedly for several days. Order was finally
restored, and then began a long scries of negotiations, ham-
pered, as the relief had been, by mutual jealousies of the
foreigners.
Each nation had a long list of indemnities demanded for
property and lives lost and as a punishment to China. At
length it was decided that China should pay an indemnity of
ib/, 500, 000, in annual instalments extending over a pe^od
of 40 years. The Taku forts were to be demolished so as to
give access from the sea to the Esgations in case of another
attack and permanent garrisons were to be established by the
foreign powers both at the Eegations in Peking and on the
way to the sea. In addition a number of the leaders of the
Boxer movement were executed, others allowed to commit
suicide, and apologies were conveyed to Germany for the
murder of her Minister.
There were a few further outbreaks of Boxer activities in
1901 and igo2, but the Boxers no longer had the sympathy of
the government, and most effective measures were taken to
suppress any activity against foreigners.
Russia's need for an ice-free port led to her designs to
secure complete control of Manchuria. Her demands made
shortly after the Boxer trouble amounted virtually to annexa-
tion and Viceroy Yuan Shih K’ai urged on China the necessity
of warlike preparations. But in the meantmie Japan, having
her own plans regarding the development of Manchuria, grew
tired of the vacillating policy of China and took action her-
self, dealing directly with St. Petersburg. The result of these
negotiations was war, in which Japan succeeded, and took over
HISTORICAL SKETCH
61
from Russia the special privileges which had been granted to
that country in the Southern part of Manchuria, including the
lease of Port Arthur.
Through all the turmoil of the war with Japan, the Boxer
trouble, and other events of history of China, the reform
movement which in some places showed anti-dynastic tenden-
cies became more powerful and the throne itself began
preparations for the adoption of a form of constitutional
monarchy. Edicts were issued in 1906 promising this great
change at some indefinite date. A few years later a more
definite step was taken in the issuance of a decree fixing the
convocation of a parliament in 1917. The reformers were
jubilant for they believed a genuine desire for change was felt
in Peking.
Two months after issuing this decree, Emperor Kwang
IIsu died, the death of the Dowager Empress occurring the
next day. One of her last acts was to secure the accession to
of the throne of Pu Yi, the infant son of Kwang Hsu's brother,
Prince Chung. Immediately on his accession to the throne
in the latter part of 1908, Prince Chung became Regent and
inaugurated a change in policy. He dismissed Yuan Shih
K’ai, and other leaders of the conservative reform movement
and nothing more was done to further the reform program.
In the few years following, revolutionary activities,
secretly promoted by many leaders, grew so rapidly that in the
early part of 1911 the leaders were unable longer to hold it in
check. The plans of the national government to borrow
money from foreign banks and nationalize all the railways of
China led to serious riots in Szechuan, where the people
objected to the government taking over a property they had
promoted. There were other local complications which tend-
ed to accentuate the grievances of the people and Szechuan
was in a state of open rebellion in September.
In October, the activities of the ravolutionaries in the
three cities of Hankow, Wuchang and Hanyang had become
so noticeable that the Viceroy took active measures to suppress
them. He had thrown a number of them in jail and bzheaded
others when the accidental explosion of a bomb in the Russian
62
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
concession of Hankow revealed the location of one of the
revolutionary headquarters. The Viceroy was informed of
the discovery and at once a thorough search of Wuchang "
began, several suspected rebels being beheaded. The vigorous
measures taken by the Viceroy to suppress the movement
compelled the revolutionists to take action at once. A small
number of soldiers mutinied, were joined by others and with-
in twenty- four hours the Viceroy and other officials had been
compelled to flee while the rebels under the leadership of Li
Yuan Hung took complete possession of the three cities.
Imperial troops from the North were sent against the
rebels, but the anti-dynastic movement spread over all the
country with startling rapidity. The loyal troops were able
to make some headway against the rebels at Hankow, but
the Republican army grew rapidly, and city after city in the
South drove out the Manchu officials, declaring allegiance to
the provisional Republican government. At some places the
bitter race feeling led to bloody massacres^of the Manchiis,
neither women nor children escaping.
Within a month after the outbreak of the fighting in
Hankow, fourteen of the eighteen provinces of China had
thrown off Manchu authority and sent representatives to the
provisional Republican government. The Manchus made
frantic efforts to stem the rising tide of Republicanism and
regain the affections of the people, which had been forfeited
by so many years of misrule. Yuan Shih K’ai, who had been
so humiliatingly dismissed by the Prince Regent, was
racalled to the service of the throne and rapidly advanced in
power. Imperial Edicts were issued containing abject apolo-
gies for the poor government and injustices of the past and
promising even more than the reformers had demanded iu the
way o£ improvements for the future.
Dr. Sun Yat Sen arrived in China during the latter part
of December and was at once elected president of the pro-
visional Republican government, the capital being established
in Nanking. In the meantime two commissioners had been
appointed to decide on the future form of government, Dr.
Wii Tiug.fang representing the Republicans and Tang Shao
EISTORZCAL SR^YCS
Yi the Imperialists. These negotiations ended on February
10, 1912, when an Imperial Edict announced the abdication
of the infant Emperor and appointed Yuan Shih K'ai to carry
out the formation of the Republican form of government.
The edict made provision for an annual allowance for the
support of the Imperial Clan.
Shortly after the publication of this edict, the Republican
Assembly in session at Nanking accepted the resignation of
Sun Yat Sen and elected Yuan Shih K’ai as president. The
coalition Republican government was then established in
Peking.
64
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
RELIGIONS OF CHINA
'HERE are in China five religions —
Taoism, Confucianism, Buddhism, Mo-
hammedanism and Christianity. Of
these Taoism and Confucianism are
native religions, the others having been
introduced from foreign lands. Budd-
hism and the two native religions are
the most popular and though they con-
tain coiiilicting elements many claim
adherence to all, while the temples of
each have borrowed many gods from
the others. As the Chinese can see
no objection to accepting more than one religion, no
reasonable estimate can he made of the relative strength
of the adherents of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism.
One may “belong” to all three, just as in America he may
be a Methodist, Free Mason and Democrat. However, in
general it may be said that Cotvfucianism is the belief of
scholars and officials while the degenerate forms of Buddhism
and Taoism appeal to the more ignorant classes. The fol-
lowers of Mahomet hold aloof from the other religions and
tlieir temples or mosques contain no strange gods. Different
authorities place their number at 9 to 15 million. Christian
converts number about two million.
Taoism. — This religion was founded on the teachings of
Laotze, a sage born in 604 B. C. in the present province of
Ho'.ian. According to tradition he was an adult at birth,
from which circumstance he derived his name of Laotze, or
“old boy."' He taught contemplation and retirement as a
means of spiritual purification and the attainment of the Tao,
or “correct road,” a word which he used to signify the highest
spiritual ideals of mankind. Laotze spent his life in study
and teaching and about 500 B. C., old and discouraged at the
failure of men to accept his doctrine, he determined to quit
China and started on a journey to the West, to Tartary or
RELIGIONS OE CHINA
65
Tibet. Many Taoists claim that he found his way to India
and was really the founder of Buddhism, which, if a fact,
would justify the Taoist theft of popular Buddhist gods. His
teachings are incorporated in a profound hook Tao Teh
King which Taoists regard as the final authority in religious
matters. According to one authority .*** *‘The pure Taoism of
the Tao Teh King is as much quoted in every age of Chinese
history, officialdom, and poetry as Shakespeare is quoted in
the literature and speech of modern England; and though
officially Confucianism is the orthodox official belief, it is
Taoism, or rather the ancient natural religion as interpreted
and expressed by Laotze, which really forms the character of
the gentleman philosopher in China. The impassivencss,
stoicism, democratic feeling, contempt for profuse luxury and
vulgar show, patience, humility, calmness, deliberation, aver-
sion from imperial puffery, boastfulness, and military glory
which characterize the best Chinese minds are vShinto Taoist
rather than Confucian in spirit; and the fact that men in re-
sponsible positions only too frequently give way in fact to
cupidity, sensuality and cowardice in no way prevents the same
men in theory from honestly aspiring to, admiring and teach-
ing their true ideals; just as with us, a man may be or try to
be a convinced Christian gentleman, although occasionally
he may take.a drop too much, or yield to business frauds and
feminine seductions.'"
Laotze’s teachings are admirable but thjre is a great gap
between them and the Taoism of the pre'jent day, which has
incorporated into its temples local gods and beliefs and de-
generated into lower forms of mysticism and geomancy. The
priests “live in temples and small communitic: with their
families, cultivating the ground attached to the establishment,
and thus perpetuate their body; many lead a wandering life,
and derive a precarious livelihood from the sale of charms and
medical nostrums. They study astrology and profess to have
dealings with spirits, their books containing a great variety of
stories of priests who have done wonderful acts by their help.
H. Parker in “China and Religion.”
66
HANDBOOK BOB CHINA
They long endeavored to find a beverage which would ensure
immortality. They are now looked upon as ignorant cheats
and designing jugglers, who are quite as willing to use their
magical powers to injure their enemies as to help those who
seek their aid."t
The Taoist hierarchy is presided over by a pope who lives
in the town of Shang Shing Kung near the sacred mountain
of Lung Lu Shan in Kiangsi province. An important part of
his establishment consists of many sealed jars in which he has
imprisoned evil spirits which he keeps in subjection in con-
sideration cf numerous gifts.
The Taoist priests are distinguished by their slate-colored
robes. Their temples often contain hundreds of gods but of
these the chief (according to Dr. Timothy Richard) are Yu
Hwang Shangti, Tai Shang Lao Kun, Shiwangmu, Laotze,
Chwangtze, Chang Tao Ling (the first Taoist pope), Lu Tung
Pin, Kiu Chang Chun, Tien How (the sailors’ goddess) and
Ching Hwang, the city god.
“Taoist temples are built upon the same general plan as
the temples dedicated to the Buddhist cult. The adherents of
Laotze have borrowed from the Buddhist bonzes the interior
decorations of their sacred halls, as well as the plastic repre-
sentation of divinities, the worship of idols, and many of their
ritual ceremonies. The Buddhist triad is replaced by an
imposing triad of supreme deities called Shang Ti, who preside
over the jade paradise of the Taoist heavens; statues of
Laotze and of the eight immortals, called Pa Hsien, are posed
in prominent places ; and there are separate shrines for the
three star-gods of happiness, rank and longevity, and for a
multitude of lesser lights of the faith whose name is legion.
The sacrificial vases, candlesticks and incense burners, as well
as the other ritual surroundings, bear distinctive Taoist sym-
bols and emblems.”*
Buddhum.— Shaky amuni, the name by which Buddha
is generally known in China, was born in the fifth or sixth
tS. Wells Williams in “The Middle Kingdom.”
* Stephen W. Bushell in “Chinese Art.”
BUDDHISM
67
century before Christ but it was not until the early part of the
Christian Era that his teachings reached China, where they
were destined to have a profound effect on Chinese thought
and to leave an indelible impression on art. About A. D, 65
a Chinese Emperor as the result of a dream sent a mission to
the West for priests to teach Buddhism. The mission found
its way to India and two years later returned to the Chinese
capital with the first of a great band of zealous missionaries
who for more than a thousand years came to China both by
the northen land route and the southern sea route. It has
been suggested that the first missionaries were sent for because
of some vague rumors of the teachings and death of Christ
which may have reached China at that time. Buddhism
rapidly gained popularity and today the Buddhist priests pro-
bably outnumber the Taoist. '‘Their demonolatry allows the
incorporation of the deities and spirits of other religions, and
goes even further, in permitting the priests to w^orship the
gods of other pantheons, so they could adapt themselves to
the popular superstitions of the countries they went to, and
ingraft all the foreign divinities into their calendar as they
saw fit. The power of Buddhism in China has been owing
chietfy to its ability to supply the lack of certainty in the pop-
ular notions respecting a future state and the nature of the
gods who govern man and creation. Confucius uttered no
specu’ation about those unseen things, and ancestral worship
confined itself to a belief in the presence of the loved ones,
who were ready to accept the homage of their children. The
longing of the soul to know something of the life beyond the
grave was measurably supplied by the teachings of Shakya-
rnuni and his disciples, and, as was the case with Confucius,
was illustrated and enforced by the earnest, virtuous life of
their founder."
It is probably not far wrong to say that pure Buddhism is
unknown among the great mass of its followers. Though the
sutras have been translated into Chinese the liturgies used in
the temple have only been transliterated, Chinese characters
representing the sounds of the original Sanscrit words. As
the priests are unfamiliar with Sanscrit, the occasional Budd«
6C
Handbook pob cbina
hist service one will hear is just as intelligible to the tourist
as to the priests who perform it.
One of the interesting features of Buddhist teaching- in
China is a system of merits and demerits which allows one to
keep books on his virtues and vices and at any time to strike
a balance which will show his credit in heaven. Ten points
are allowed for making a road or digging a well, thirty for
the gift of enough ground for a grave. Against these credit
marks, which are computed on an elaborate scale covering
almost every possible good act, must be charged the demerits
reckoned by an equally elaborate scale. Thus to Ic vel a tomb
costs fifty demerits and to dig up a corpse one hundred.
The priests take a vow of celibacy and abstinence from
meat and wine, wear no skin or woolen garments and shave
the entire head. Begging, the sale of incense paper and
charms, the cultivation of the temple grounds and fees receiv-
ed for the performance of funeral rites afford them a means
of support. They are gathered in monasteries and nunneries.
The nuns are few in number as compared with the priests. As
they shave their heads and wear clothing like that of the
priests, it is frequently difficult to distinguish them.
Alost statistics of Buddhism are very much in error. It is
often spoken of as having a greater number of followers (500
millions) than any other religion. This error arises from the
supposition that all the 400 millions of China are Buddhists,
forgetting that (not counting Mohammedans or Christians)
there are few who could not with equal truth be called Taoists
or Confucianists.
The Chinese Buddhist temple usually comprises a number
of semi-detached halls, grouped about rectangular courts, with
the principal building in the center. The entrance is guarded
by a pair of carved stone lions and on festival days the wooden
columns beside the entrance are hung with banners and
lanterns. In the vestibule are always ranged the gigantic
figures of the “Four Great Kings/* while in the center are
usually the images of Maitreye, the Buddhist niessiah, and
Kuan Ti, the god of war. Maitreye, better known by his
Chinese name of Milo Fo, is a smiling and fat-bellied Chinese,
CONFUCIANISM
69
while Kuan Ti is a mailed figure in ancient costume seated on
a chair. In the Lama temples, Maitreye is depicted as a
dignified and commanding figure.
Buddha is always the central figure in the triad enthroned
in the position of honor in the main hall, the other two usually
being favorite disciples. Life-size figures of the eighteen
disciples who attained emancipation from rebirth are ranged
near by. Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy, is usually enshrin-
ed in a separated hall behind the main building. She is the
central figure of a group of three, the others being Wenchu,
the “god of wisdom’* and Pu Hsien, the “all good/* Ir. addi-
tion to these principal gods there are usually hundreds of idols
ranged along the walls representing lesser divinities and saints.
Confucianism. — Confucius, born B, C. 551 in what is now
the province of Shantung, was a contemporary of Laotze and
like him devoted much attention to the study of the old tradi-
tions of Chinese history. It was on the lessons taught by
these traditions that both Laotze and Confucius based their
teachings, though different and in some aspects opposing con-
clusions were reached. Laotze has been described as “a
rugged, radical denouncer of the Jeremiah or Carlyle type.
Confucius was a man of comfort, order, reverence and court-
liness.*’ Pure Confucianism cannot be called a religion in the
western sense, as it is only a system of ethics, based on the
old Chinese legends and the court ritual. Confucius codified
the five relations of Chinese life which embraced the duties of
ruler and minister, husband and wife, father and son, elder
and younger brother, friend and friend. He taught loyalty,
faithfulness, filial piety, respect for seniority, and sincerity.
His study was of the relation of man to man and he declined
to discuss a future state. He was once asked about his belief
in God and replied that as he had not been able to solve all
the mysteries of earth he could not be expected to solve those
of heaven/^ Again he said, “Heaven does not talk, and yet the
four seasons come with regularity.” Confucius differed from
Laotze (and in that probably laid the foundations for the
official adoption of his teachings) in that while Laotze was a
sturdy democrat, Confucius was always a courtier, whose
70
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
teachings were designed to encourage obedience on the part Of
the people to their rulers. Laotze expressed some contempt
for mere earthly relations, while Confucius made these his'
chief study. He devoted great attention to the perfection of
rites and ceremonies, not only for the feudal court of Lu to
which he was attached, but for the use of all his fellow coun-
trymen. He gave minute attention to the nurture and educa-
tion of children, the ceremonies of mourning the dead, and to
all the smallest details of etiquette.
Confucius died in 479 B. C. at the age of 72 and it was
not until about five centuries later that he became recognwed
as the great sage of China, a position which he hqlds officially
and in the minds of most educated Chinese, though foreign
students would be inclined to bestow that honor on Mencius
who followed and expounded Confucius. About the beginning
of the Christian Era Confucianism was officially adopted,
several Emperors paying visits to his tomb. His family was
elevated to the nobility and today his descendant in direct line
bears the title of Duke.
The orthodox Confucian ftinple is severely plain and
contains, as the only objects of worship, the ancestral tablets
of Confucius, Mencius and other worthies, but this is often
elaborated by the addition of an image of Confucius sometimes
accompanied by images of his disciples.
Ancestral Worship. — Apart from the three religions
previously mentioned, but sanctioned by all of them, exists the
family cult commonly known as ancestral worship. Dr. S,
Wells Williams,* to whom the writer is indebted for much
that appears in these brief chapters on the religions of China,
describes the cult as follows :
“In every household, a shrine, a tablet, an oratory or a
domestic temple, according to the position of the family,
contains the simple legend of the two ancestral names written
on a slip of paper or carved on a board. Incense is burned
before it daily, or on the new and full moons; and in April
the people everywhere gather at the family graves to sweep
In “The Middle Kingdom.
MOHAMMEDANISM
71
them, and worship the departed around a festive sacrifice.
To the children it has all the pleasant associations of our
Christmas or Thanksgiving; and all the elder members of the
family who can do so come together around the tomb or in the
ancestral hall at the annual rite. Parents and children meet
and bow before the tablet, and in their simple cheer contract
no associations with temples or idols, monasteries or priests,
processions, or flags and music. It is the family and a stranger
intermeddleth not with it; he has his own tablet to look to,
and can get no good by worshiping before that bearing the
names of another familJ^
“As the children grow up, the worship of the ancestors
whom they never saw is exchanged for that of nearer ones
who bore and nurtured, clothed, taught, and cheered them in
helpless childhood and hopeful youth, and the whole is thus
rendered more personal,, vivid and endearing. There is noth-
ing revolting or cruel connected with it, but everything is
orderly, kind, and simple, calculated to strengthen the family
relationship, cement the affection between brothers and sisters,
and uphold habits of filial reverence and obedience. Though
the strongest motive for this worship arises out of the belief
that success in worldly affairs depends on the support given to
parental spirits iu hades, who will resent continued neglect by
withholding their blessing, yet, in the course of ages, it has
influenced Chinese character, in promoting industry and
cultivating habits of domestic care and thrift, beyond all
estimation.’'
MohammedanUm. — In 735 ^ terrible rebellion broke forth
in China under a Turk or Tartar leader, and the Emperor of
China in his helplessness asked for help from the Arabs.
Some of these came overland, others by sea via Canton, in
numbers varying according to reports from 4000 to 100,000 and
were quartered in garrisons in different parts of the Empire.
When the rebellion was ended the Chinese Emperor sanctioned
the Arabs marrying Chinese wives and settling down. Thus
Mohammedan colonists were found all over the Empiye. Even
before this time Mohammedanism had gained some foothold in
China, for Arab traders had come to Canton and Hangchow
72
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
by sea while others found their way overland to Siaiifu. They
do not appear ever to have increased by means of converts
made through a religious propagandnm, but mainly by natural
increase of the original colonists.
To this is probably due the remarkable fact that *‘vvhile the
Chinese annals are clear about the Persian and Babylonian
religions which came and went during a couple of centuries,
none of their histories record a single word about the introduc-
tion into China of the Mohammedan faith.
The Mohammedans have not translated the Koran into
Chinese for they consider the book too sacred to be put into a
foreign language. On this account they have many theological
colleges, where Arabic is taught to the ahungst the preachers
who expound the Koran every Friday in their mosques. But
they have a few standard works in Chinese, explaining the
main principles of Islam, which they do not offer for sale to
outsiders, as they consider their religious literature too sacred
for sale to the public.
No idols are found in the Mohammedan mosques which
are severely plain in contrast with the Buddhist or Taoist
temples. The mullah or ahung does not call the hours of
prayer from a minaret but contents himself with shouting it
from the front door of the mosque. Though he puts on special
robes during the service, the aJniug w- cars the ordinary Chinese
garments at all other times.
Mr. Broomhall in his book Islam in China gives the
maximum of population of Mohammedans as 9,821,000. Au-
thorities do not agree about the number, The Mohammedans,
own estimate is considerably larger, and is given in Hughes,
Dictionary of Islam as 15,000,000.
Christianity. — There are traditions that Christianity
reached China before the end of the first century of the Chris-
tian Era, when Ashvagosha in the court of Kanishka was
converted, and when a life of Buddha, who was confounded
with Jesus Christ, was written. This life was the basis of
Edwin Arnold’s Light of Asia,
While Western Christians were hard at work converting
Europe, the Nestorian Christians set about the conversion of
MOHAMMEDANISM
73
Asia, at first from their original s^at of Antioch; and soon
they had established bishops in Syria, Babylcn, Bagdad, India,
Central Asia and China. There is good reason to believe
that Nestorian missronaries had reached China as early as
A. D. soo. Alopen, a Nestorian missionary, with a band of
followers, one of whom was an Ethiopian, went to Sianfu the
then capital of China in 635. The presence of the Nestorian
missions in Sianfu is attested by the Nestorian Stone, bearing
an inscription of 3500 words, consisting of a statement con-
cerning the being of God, the sin of men, the coming and
teaching of Christ and the work of Christian missionaries.
When Marco Polo was in China during the Mongol dynasty
he found many Nestorian Christians.
•The Franciscan mission began in China in the early part
of the 14th century, when John of Monte Corvino was received
by Kublai Khan and built a church in Cambaliic where he
remained 36 years, and “converted more than thirty thousand
infidels.” Monte Corvino was an immediate disciple of St.
Francis of Assisi and is regarded as the first Roman Catholic
missionary to China.
Francis Xavier began bis mission work in Japan, going
there at the suggestion of a Japanese convert he had made in
Malacca. In Japan he constantly met with the objection “If
yours is the right religion why have the Chinese, from whom
we get our civilization, not accepted it? ” He took the hint
and began to make arrangements for a mission to China,
going first to Malacca to get letters of introduction from the
Portuguese authorities. He returned to Macao and died on
an island near Canton without having set foot on the mainland
of China.
In 1583 the Jesuit Father Ricci brought clocks to China, a
great novelty than, to present them to the Chinese authorities.
On arriving at Peking he taught mathematics and science as
well as Christianity, and was highly honored by all who
knew him. He died in 1610 at the age of 58. Ricci was fol-
lowed by Fathers Schall and Verbiest, both brilliant men,
who were put in charge of the astronomical board at Peking
to reform the calendar.
74
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
From the time of Ricci to 1733 the Roman church sent
five hundred missionaries to China and the learned Jesuits
gained high honors in the capital. At length a controversy
arose over the question of ancestor worship, some insisting that
these rites were mere civil forms while others denounced them
as redolent of idolatry and superstition. This dispute was
carried to Rome and back to China again, the issue being
finally decided against the rites. This was one of the main
causes for the expulsion, shortly after 1735, of all Christian
missionaries and the systematic persecution of Christians.
Though thd Roman Catholic missionaries never definitely
abandoned the Chinese field, their activities were limited until
the opening of the treaty ports in 1842.
Ill 1807 Robert Morrison, the first British Protestant
missionary to China, arrived in Canton. He was soon joined
by Milne and together they translated the New Testament, and
later the Old Testament, into Chinese. In 1823 Morrison's
great Chinese-English dictionary in six volumes was published,
and became the key by which Chinese literature was afterwards
made known to the w®rld.
In 1830 the first American missionaries, Bridgman and
Abeel, came to China. These British and American mission-
aries soon founded hospitals and schools and distributed
books and tracts wherever they went. As was the case with
Roman Catholic missions, Prote.stant activity was limited until
the opening of the treaty ports. Within a short time after thi.s
event, many of them, chiefly British and American, arrived
and as soon as opportunity offered pushed into the interior.
Protestant and Roman Catholic missionaries are now
found scattered throughout the country, and there is scarcely
a city of any importance which does not contain a community
of native Christians, nor are there many places of importance
which do not possess schools, hospitals, dispensaries, orphans'
homes and other worthy institutions maintained by the mis-
sionary societies.
Christian mission statistics are as follows
Roman Catholic missionaries 1469, Converts 1,430,000
Protestant missionaries (including wives) 5171, Communicants 37 o.ooQ
Total Christians x, 860,000
superstition
75
Superstition. — Though not properly a part of any of the
religions of China, geomancy and superstition play a very
large part in the lives of the average Chinese. The native
priests are not superior to the common people in this regard
and divination has been for so long a part of their stock in trade
that ill the minds of the ignorant divination and religion are
indistinguishable. A large part of Chinese popular super-
stitions is embraced in the belief in feng shni, or “wind-
and>water^’ rules.
*‘The principles of geomancy depend much on two
supposed currents running through the earth, known as the
dragon and the tiger. A skillful observer can detect and de-
scribe them, with the help of the compass, direction of the
watercourses, shapes of the male and female ground, and their
proportions, color of the soil, and the permutations of the
elements. The common people know nothing of the basis on
which this conclusion is founded, but give their money as their
faith ill the priest or charlatan increases.''
In Chinese belief, the spirits which inhabit various objects
of nature have a profound influence over the life of man. It
is the function of the gcomancers to discover and sell charms
for these evil spirits, locate their haunts ar.d guard against
their attacks by the building of walls, the tearing down of
buildings or even the deflection of the courses of streams.
Needless to say, no foreigner in the remotest way understands
the rules of feng shui, but many who live in China have seen
examples of the influence of its belief.
The choice of a burial place is believed to affect the future
of the surviving relatives and its choice is left to the geo-
mancers. Malign influences will, it is believed, disturb the dead
and cause him to wreak vengeance on those who have failed to
provide him with a more comfortable habitation. Thus great
efforts are put forth to secure a grave site which will bring
about the happiest results and some families spend large sums
for the service of the best geomancers that they can secure.
That the “wind-and-water doctors” themselves believe in their
solemn nonsense Is indicated by Dr. .Wells Williams* story of
one who *‘after having selected a grave for a family was
76
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
attacked with ophthalmia, and in revenge for their giving him
poisonous food which he supposed had caused the malady,^
hired men to remove a large mass of rock near the grave,
whereby its efficacy was completely spoiled/^
An electric light plant was located in one of the principal
Chinese cities several years ago, the smokestack towering up
some distance from the yamen, or office, of the chief official.
The official suffered a period of illness and other misfortunes
which convinced him that the icug shui was not right, so he
called in a geoniancer. That worthy made a careful examina-
tion of the neighborhood and decided that the evil spirits flew
into the yamen from the vantage ground of the smokestack.
A request for the removal of the smokestack was refused by
the unimaginative foreigner who owned it, so the old entrance
to the yamen was carefully blocl^cd up and a new one cut on
the opposite side of the building. After tint the spirits did
no more harm.
Just inside temple and other doors will often be seen a
screen equal in size to the door opening, which it is necessary to
walk around before entering the temple. This is placed there
because evil spirits can fly only in a straight line and have not
the power to go around the screen. For the same reason, the
bridges which lead across artificial lakes to the teahouse in
the center follow a zigzag course, and blank walls are often
built ill front of doors which otherwise would be exposed to
the direct attacks of the spirits. This kind of superstition is
to be found in everything. When a Chinese is ill, he will
'Send to the Taoist priests for a charm, which consists of a
piece of paper with mystic characters. The paper is burned,
he swallows the ashes, and is better at once. When a baby is
born, a piece of raw ginger is hung outside the house as a
polite means of warning strangers hot to come inside, as the
presence of a stranger near an infant is supposed to have a
very bad influence. One of the amusing features of Chinese
superstition is the practice, rather common in some places, of
dressing small boys as girls in the hope that the spirits will be
deceived thereby and will pay no attention to the supposed
girl.
SUPERSTITION
77
These superstitious beliefs prevail among nearly all
classes of Chinese and many who laugh at them are at the
same time careful not to do anything which would, according
to popular belief, bring them ill luck. Each year every
Chinese family purchases an almanac in which are listed tlic
lucky and unlucky days and to a certain extent the actions of
every member of the family are guided by the advices of this
book.
78
HANDBOOK fOVL CHINA
ARTS AND INDUSTRIES
orcelain.— Always ready to add to the
glories of their ancient history, Chinese
writers ascribe the beginning of their
pottery to a very remote time. There
is no reason, however, to believe that
the art is any older in China tlian else-
where, though the Chinese are the world^s
greatest potters and have produced the
most beautiful and valuable porcelain
known. The pottery of China went
through the same process of evolution as
in other countries. The first rude bricks,
baked in an open oven, were succeeded
by moulded and scooped out pieces,
made in imitation of the forms of their
bronze, which had been developed
several centuries earlier. During the
Vase of Kang Hsi Qhow dynasty, 1122 to 249 B. C. the
Period, valued at potter’s wheel v/as known and books of
^30,000 that period clearly describe the difference
between moulded pottery and that made on the potter’s wheel.
From the very first knowledge we have of it, Chinese
pottery was different from that of any other country, largely
owing to the higher temperature at wdiich it was fired, result-
ing in a hard, vitrified ware. To the same cause must be
ascribed types of glaze unknown elsewhere, and so different
were the results obtained by the Chinese that for several cen-
turies after the introduction of the ware to ETurope, it remained
a mystery to the European potters, who thought it entirely
different from the ware they were producing.
Somewhere about the time of Christ, glaze was discov-
ere 1 the first mention of it being in the Earlier Han dynasty
(206 B. C — A. D. 22). This glaze was dark greenish, the ware
being vitrified, and so hard that it could not be scratched
with a knife. The Chinese were the first to discover that at
a high temperature pottery could be glazed with powdered
PORCELAlIf
felsp'itliic rock mixed with limestone or mnrble. Out of this
discovery, and the constant use of a very high temperature,
with great care in the selection and preparation of the clays
used, the Chinese developed the i)Orcclains which mark the
highest development of the art. But the development was
slow, and the next thousand years after the discovery of glaze
is included in the primitive period, the first of five periods
into which the chronology of Chinese porcelain is divided.
The primitive period ended with the Yuan dynasty (1368),
and before its close great advancement had been made from
the early brown pots, unglazcd, and daubed with various
colored clays. During the Tang dynasty, in the seventh
century, the industry began to flourish and successfully^
compete with the much older bronzes for the attention of art
connoisseurs. In the following Sung dynasty (q6o to 1280),
the industry was firmly established under Imperial patronage,
a royal manufactory being established at Ching-teh-chen, this
district remaining ever since as the center of the industry.
Contemporary writings describe the porcelain of that period
as being “blue as the sky, fragile as paper, bright as a mirror,
and sonorous as a plaque of jade stone.*'
Crackle is supposed to have been known during the
latter part of this period. Its discovery w^as probably acci-
dental, but the Chinese developed it to a high state of perfec-
tion. To produce this effect, the piece, while being fired,
was exposed to a sudden drop of the temperature, which
caused the glaze to contract more rapidly Ilian the body of
the piece, and break into innumerable crackles. So well did
the Chinese potters understand this process that they were
able to produce .' t will any size of crackle desired.
The second period of Chinese porcelain coincides with
the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), which is considered by the
Chinese to have produced the most glorious products. The
industry made much more rapid progress than in the preced-
ing period. During the 14th century, the Chinese came in
contact with Persian painted wares and at once began manu-
facturing them. 3ut the only colors in the Persian paint pot
which could withstand the fierce heat of the Chinese kilns
80
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
were cobalt blue and copper. Floral designs C'lme into ex-
istence at the same time, the early decorations were stamped^
the designs being strongly silhouetted . by raised outlines.
The famous green porcelain known as celadon was produced
about this time, probably being made in imitation of the
highly prized jade stone. The Chinese place the highest value
on the blue and white wares made during the reigns of Yung
Lo, Such Te, and Ching Hwa (1403-1488). This 15th century
blue and white set the standard for all blue and white produc-
tion of a later date. The magnificent sang de bcctif was
first produced at this time. Another ware of this period was
the eggshell porcelain, on some pieces elaborate designs being
engraved before firing. Some of the designs arc so delicate
that they cannot be seen until held to the light. The yellow
pieces of Hung Chi (1488-1505) and Cheng-te (1506-1521)
arc most prized.
Toward the end of the i6th century, China began to
produce porcelain with colors fixed over the glaze. Previously
the potters had been confined to cobalt and copper, results
from the latter being very uncertain. In the new process,
the pieces were refired after fixing the decoration. The first,
colors used were green, purple, and yellow, red over an
underglazc of blue being added later. During this time, the
production was enormous, and shipments to Europe began, by
way of Portuguese trading vessels. Thi^ led to certain
changes in design, to comply with what was thought to be
European taste.
. The most famous porcelain of the Ming dynasty was pro-
duced during the short reign of Siien-Te (1426-1436), the
favorite design being pale blue flowers. The product of Ching
Hwa (1465-1488) is most frequently copied. The system of
marking china by means of characters which show the reign
under which the piece was made originated during the Ming
dynasty, but only one piece of a set was marked. Decora-
tions of this period are usually in five colors, green pre-
dominating, and hence such pieces arc classed as famille vert.
Other colors used were : blue under the glaze, red, yellow and
deep purple over it.
PORC^LAIK
81
The third period was introduced with the Manchu dynas^
ty, 1644, and extended to the end of the reign of Kang Hsi,
1723. The Imperial pottery works were deJJtroyed more than
once in the 17th century as a result of rebellions and the
Manchu invasion, but the early Alanclui Emperors gave the
industry their protection and their reigns saw the height of
artistic production reached. Kang Hsi, the second of the
Manchu Emperors, was the only ruler of China who remained
on the throne for a complete C5^cle of sixty years, and during
this time some of the most notable pieces were produced.
Attempts w'ere made to reproduce the green and blood-red
glazes of former times, but the results w^ere different, and the
sang de hocitf reached perfection. The blue and white pieces
of the Aling dynasty were perfected not only with greater
decorative skill but the cobalt blue was more brilliant and Iht
purity and quality of the white glaze superior. The hawthorn
ginger jars were produced. Many specimens of this period
linve no date marks at all, for a rather curious reason. In
1677 the superintendent of the factory gave orders that the
name of the Emperor should no longer be used as a mark,
because wdth his name on it the accidental breaking of a
piece of porcelain would amount to an act of disrespect to the
h'mperor. Pieces marked with empty rings may be ascribed
to the few years following 1677, during wdiich the order was
enforced, though this mark is very frequently copied. The
three most famous monochrome glazes of the reign were:
apple green, sang de boenf and peach bloom. During the
Kang Hsi period the famille verty or five colored porcelain
with a brilliant green usually predominating, were first per-
fected and are much sought after and highly prized by con-
noisseurs who also place a high value on what is termed ‘Three
color Kang Hsi.” Some of the specimens of the latter have
sold at enormous prices, especially those with the black glazed
background. The marks of the period vary but the most
common are double circles and the fungus leaf.
Following this came the short Yung Cheng period, which
lasted thirteen years, from 1723 to 1736. Short as it was, the
period marked manj' advances, largely because of the personal
82
IIANDDOOK FOR CHINA
interest taken in the art by the Emperor. The drawing is
better than that of any preceding period, and the designs were
assigned to smaller space on the pieces, so that the porcelain
itself could be admired. Owing to an inferior supply of
cobalt, the blue was not so good as before, but to balance this
defect, the rose color, from gold, was discovered, giving birth
to the great rose family. The fine stipple work of Yung
Cheng, distinguishes it from the broad, bold washes of color
of the preceding period.
The Kien Lung reign (1736-1795) will always stand out
as a distinctive period, the fourth in the cycle. It represents
the highest technical skill and the perfection of not only
quality but details and finesse. The beautiful famille rose was
perfected and reached its highest stage of development. With
the perfection of details, however, a certain amount of the
forceful character and strength which characterized the Kang
Ilsi period was lost. During the first part of the period of
Kien Lung there were but few changes from the w'are of the
preceding reign. Then a new director of the Imperial works
was appointed and further experiments in the rose color were
carried out. The pink, ruby and rose eggshell plates and
dessert services which were so popular abroad were produced
during this reign. As this period was so much longer than
that of Yung Cheng, the production was larger and for that
reason the period is of more importance from the standpoint
of tlic collector. However, there is little difference in the class
of production, and it is difficult even for the expert to tell to
which reign many pieces belong, unless the distinguishing
marks arc present.
The modem period of porcelain making in China extends
from the close of the reign of Kien Lung to the present time
and has been distinguished by no remarkable developments.
The industry lias suffered a great deal through rebellions and
misrule, the works at Ching-teh-chen being destroyed by the
Taipings. A few new types have been produced, but the
potters have chiefly confined themselves to the reproduction
of older masterpieces, to copying Wedgwood and Sevres and
making pottery in semi-European style to meet the demands of
PAINflNO
83
the treaty port Chinese. A poor quality of blue and white has
been made in large quantities to meet the demand from Europe.
It is most difficult for any but the expert to determine
the period to which specimens of porcelain belong, for the
potters have always copied the best works of the preceding
periods. As the mark has been copied also, it seldom means
anything but an indication of the period to which the par-
ticular type of porcelain belongs. The collector will find
nothing earlier than the Ming dynasty in the shops, of which
there arc dozens in every city of China. If there are any
specimens of the Sung dynasty extant, they syre in the great
collections of the royal family, and former Manchu officials.
The pieces offered in the shops today belong to a much later
date, few of them being more than loo years old.
References for further reading: **Chinese Porcelainf*
by W, C. Gulland; **Chats on Oriental China/* by 7. R
Blocker; **Chinese Art/* by Stephen W. BushelU
Painting. — China can boast of a succession of great
painters for the past twelve centuries, with some worthy of
note who lived and worked much earlier. Chinese writing
being, in its earlier form, merely a kind of pictorial repre-
sentation of ideas, writing and painting developed together,
the distinguished penman usually being also a paintef of note.
By the end of the 3rd century B. C. painting was a developed
art as distinct from writing and since that time several schools
have flourished and given place to later developments.
It is unnecessary to go into a history of the art, which
followed about the same periods of prosperity and decline as
porcelain making. Developed without any outside influence,
Chinese painting is entirely different from European, and
foreigners, until they adapt themselves to the Chinese point of
view, find in it much to be desired. Chinese painting is an
art of lines, rather than of color, and one in which imagination
and poetry are more important than technical details. The
symbolic figures of Buddhism and Taoism and famous figures
of Chinese history make up the principal subjects of the
pictures. The painter always strives for harmony of composi-
tion and subtlety of conception. If a beautiful fe.iiale char-
84
HANDBOOK BOB CHINA
acter is to be portrayed, she must be surrounded by graceful
animals, billowy clouds or swaying reeds. If it is a stern
warrior who makes up the principal figure in the picture, the
artist will probably paint in massive mountain peaks in the
background. The first thing the foreigner notices in Chinese
paintings is the lack of perspective. The Chinese say it is
unreal and. therefore inartistic to represent space and distance
on a flat surface where it cannot exist.
The paintings of the old masters are carefully hoarded in
private collections but the shops offer many clever imitatione.
Good prints of the best paintings are now on the market and
can be secured at cheap prices.
Reference for further reading: **History of Chinese
Pictorial Art/' by H. A. Giles.
Bronzes. — Bronze work represents the oldest form of art
in China, and the history of the development of bronze can
be traced fairly clearly for 3000 years. The earliest speci-
mens in the collections of to-day date back to the Sliang and
Chow dynasties (1766-255 B. C.) These bronze vessels are
chiefly of a ceremonial type and the forms have been repeated
in both bronze and brass to the present day with but slight
changes. The older pieces display a savagery of design in
contrast to the delicacy and refinements of later Chinese art.
Very early in the history of the art, conventional designs of
real or fabulous animals were used as decorations. The e^rly
pieces arc covered with red, green and brown patina, and later
pieces show excellent counterfeits of these evidences of age.
The artificial patina is often put on with wax, “but the decep-
tion is at once revealed by scraping the surface with a knife,
or by immersing the suspected piece in boiling water.” '
In pieces dating about 500 B. C the highest development
of the art is found. Specimens were magnificently decorated
with gold and silver and the earlier crudities of technique
had disappeared. The later pieces are more elaborate and
less austere in design. More refinement of form was shown
after the 2nd century A. D., owing to the influence of Buddhism.
The art suffered a decline in the Tang dynasty, was revived
in the Sung and later by the Ming, the highest excellence of
AKCHITECTUHE and MON-MBNTS
85
the renaissance being reached under the reign of Kang Hsi,
the great Manchii Emperor. Chinese dealers often try to
cheat the traveler by offering him clever brass imitations of
old bronze pieces.
Architecture and Monuments. — Throughout the history
of China she has clung to the use of bricks and wood as build-
ing materials with the result that there are in the country but
few buildings either of great antiquity or of imposing stucture.
One type of architecture prevails now, as it has always pre-
vailed and one who goes to China today will see buildings but
little different from those in which Confucius lived. There
are few structures in China more than two stories high. The
crowded cities arc almost entirely made up of buildings of that
size, and the narrow dark streets give no encouragement to
architectural ambitions. The effect of the few fine facades is
lost for the same reason.
The roof is the predominant feature of the Chinese house,
with its elaborately curved corners, projecting eaves and grace-
ful sweeping lines. The construction of Chinese houses is
singularly similar to that of American steel buildings, as the
walls are not retaining walls. The structure is built up on
pillars, which are later filled in with bricks and mortar. Often
the roof is curiously ornamented with sharp barbs and points
which stick out in all directions, the object being to impale
any evil spirits ^vhich may be flying about. For a similar
superstitous motive all important buildings must face the
South. Official buildings and pretentious residences are made
up of a number of small buildings constructed around a series
of courtyards and connected by passages.
The pagoda is the most striking t3^pe of Chinese building.
There are several thousand of these structures in China, usually
crowning the summit of a hill or the highest ground sw'ell in
a flat country, and it is a poor city indeed which does not
boast of at least one. The erection of pagodas was often
prompted by superstition. .Some of them were put up by
public subscription in order to propitiate the evil spirits and
bring good luck to the towm. Alost of them are of seven or
nine stories, while some are thirteen stories, the number of
86
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
stories being always odd, and therefore lucky. Buddhist tem-
ples are usually found in the vicinity of the pagodas, the
priests profiting by the stream of visitors.
Often grouped in great numbers about ancient temples
and scattered throughout evfery part of China will be found
stone tablets, usually about six feet high and mounted on a
turtle-shaped base. These are known as stupa and the inscrip-
tions they bear usually refer to some event they weie erected
to commemorate or consist of transcriptions of the classics^
Among foreigners the most famous stupa is the Nestorian
Monument, mentioned in the article on religions (page 78.)
Not so numerous are the paitotvs, more commonly known
to foreign residents as ‘'widows* arches." These arc stone
arches erected with official permission to commemorate some
distinguished or virtuous resident. From. the fact that some
were erected in honor of widows, foreigners have given them
all the name of “widow’s arch,’’ though many are dedicated
to scholars, warriors and officials. The pailozvs are probably
more numerous in Western China than in any other part of
the country, though many will be seen around Shanghai.
Silk. — It is chiefly by means of silk that China maintains
the balance of foreign trade, the annual exports of this article
amounting to more than £13,000,000, while the Chinese
estimate that twice that amount is used at home. Chinese
history credits the invention of silk to Yuen Fei the wife of
the Third Emperor, who, for that reason, has been deified and
is worshipped as the goddess of the silk industry (lit-goddess
of* silk worms.) It is certain that silkworms were reared
about her time (B. C. 2600) and for many centuries the
secret was jealously guarded by the Chinese. The methods of
production were learned from China by Japan and the latter
country now produces, for foreign sale, a larger amount of
silk than China. China’s annual production is increasing, but
not so fast as the world’s demand.
Great care is taken in the cultivation of the mulberry
tree, which forms the chief food of the silkworms. These
trees are planted in rows five or six feet apart and are carefully
pruned down, seldom being allowed to grow to a height of
SILK
87
more than six feet. They live about fifty years. The wild
mulberry, which attains a height of forty feet, is also used, but
all of the fine silk is produced from the small domestic trees.
The coarser kinds of silk, including pongee, are produced
from worms which feed on oak leaves.
The eggs of the silkworm, carefully preserved during the
winter, are hatched out artificially about the time the mulberry
leaves are ready to supply food for the worms. In fome
places hatching trays not unlike poultry incubators are used,
but many peasants hatch the worms by the heat of their bodies,
or between blankets placed beneath the bed. The newly
hatched worms are no larger than a hair, and about one-tenth
of an inch long, one ounce of eggs producing about 30,000
worms. With their voracious appetites, the worms consume
huge quantities of mulberry leaves, often moulting or casting
their skins to make room for their rapid growth. The worms
produced from one ounce of eggs will, in their short lifetime,
eonsume a ton of leaves. During this time, the worms are
carefully tended, the peasants observing many superstitious
precautions regarding them. They believe that any noise is
very harmful, and when a visitor is taken into a feeding shed,
he is cautioned not to make any sound, while the worms are
informed of his arrival, so that any breach of etiquette he may
make will not startle them. From the time they are hatched,
the worms are supplied plentifully with leaves, only good
specimens beinig offered them. At maturit}’-, after a life of
about one month, the worms are two inches long.
They then climb to the top of loose bundles of straw
which have been provided for the occasion, and begin to spin
the cocoons. The keepers watch them carefully at this time
to prevent crowding, which would result in double cocoons.
A few threads are attached to the straw by the .worm, which
intfnediately begins spinning, moving its head round and
round and building the silken sheath, in which it encloses
itself. The spinning is completed in from three to four days,
and if left undisturbed the moth will break through the sheath
in,another ten days. Instead, the cocoons are gathered, and
the chrysalis killed within a few days after the spinning is
88
HANDBOOK m CHINA
complete. This can be done either by steaming the cocoons,
or packing them with leaves and salt in a jar which is buried
in the ground.
The cocoons are sold to the filatures, a few uninjured
ones being allowed to produce moths in order to supply eggs
for the following crop. The cycle of the ordinary* silk worm
extends over the year, but some produce two crops of cocoons
annually. The worms which feed on oak leaves are not fed
by their keepers, but are placed on the trees, being removed
to new trees as fast as they exhaust the leaves. They also
spin their cocoons on the trees, from which they are later
gathered.
Of recent years large steam filatures have been established
with foreign machinery in Shanghai, Canton, Hangchow,
Hankow, Soochow and other places, and these to a great
extent have replaced the more primitive methods of silk manu-
facture. However, the hand reels and looms still produce
enormous quantities of silk. More than joo varieties are made
by these primitive methods. Each sUk-producIng city is
famous for the manufacture of one or more kinds of silk, the
finest white cloth coming from.Wusieh and the richest brocades
being made at Soochow. Probably the best stocks in the
country are to be found in the Chinese shops of Shanghai.
Carving. — The patience and industry of the Chinese
make them excellent carvers, though their work is distinguished
by the tedious care with which it is produced rather than by
its artistic qualities. Ivory is one of their favorite materials,
and few are able to believe that the carved ivory balls, one
inside another, sometimes to the number of twenty, can be
produced without recourse to some trick. But this is the kind
of work in which the Chinese carver delights. The outside
ball is carved and through holes in the surface, tools are
introduced and the inside balls carved one at a time. AlMirc
then covered with minute designs. Elaborately carved and
gilded wood pieces are used to decorate the fronts of shops and
sometimes in private residences. Small images are carved
from ivory, jade, soap stone, or seeds. A favorite material is
goal led roots, which are carved into fantastic shapes of genii^
JEWELRY
89
polished and varnished. Under the training of foreigners, the
Chinese produce some magnificent wood pieces. At Siccawei,
near Shanghai, the Jesuits maintain a furniture factory where
Chinese workmen are employed. Some of the productions of
this place have been used in decorating the palaces of Europe,
and many travelers carry home one of their carved camphor
wood or teakwood boxes as the richest trophy of a trip to the
Orient.
Jewelry. — Few travelers return from China without
some piece of native jewelry, usually either jade or a piece of
gold or silver of distinctive design. The Chinese rank jade
as the most precious of stones and one who attempts to pur-
chase a piece of the color particularly prized by the Chinese
will find it at least as expensive as a diamond of equal weight.
The favorite color is a fine apple green. Other shades of
green, not so popular among the Chinese, are* left to satisfy
foreign tastes at very moderate prices. Much artificial jade
is made in Germany and chrysoprase from Siberia is sold
as jade. Some of the carved ornaments offered as jade are
made of a greenish white soapstone. This particular fraud
may be easily detected, for real jade is too hard to be scratched
with a knife, while soap stone is very soft. Defective pieces
of jade are frequently filled with wax and thus made to pass
muster as perfect specimens.
Very fine pieces of filigree work in both gold and silver
are produced by Chinese jewelers. The beautiful kingfisher
feather work is peculiar to China. Some of these pieces are
of striking beauty but they are not durable. The turquoise
tinted side plumes of the feathers are only gummed on to thin
plates and quickly wear off. The colors of kingfisher feathers
are often imitated in enameling, an art at which the Chinese
are very skillful.
Many imitations of precious stones are sold in China.
These are sold to the Chinese as imitations, but many foreign-
ers are deceived thereby. Very rarely will the beads on
mandarin chains be of real stones. The jade is glass, the
turquoise enamel and the amber made of resin which will
crumble into dust with age.
90
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
It may be useful to know that the jeweler stamps the
name of his shop inside any piece of gold he sells and thus
binds himself to repurchase the piece at any time by weight
without questionmg the quality of the metal.
Cloisonne.— Peking is the center for the manufacture of
cloisonn6 and one is advised to postpone any purchases of this
beautiful ware until he reaches the capital. The prices in
Shanghai are fairly satisfactory, but as a general rule Peking
prices arc far cheaper than those quoted in any other part of
the country and a greater variety is offered.
In the manufacture of cloisonne, which can be seen any
day in the factories of Peking, the design is outlined on a
copper base with thin flat wires, sometimes of gold and silver,
but more often of copper. These wires are soldered on and
when this process is completed the cells are filled with the
enamel colors in the form of paste. The piece is then fired
and the process of filling with enamel and firing is repeated
until all the cells are completely filled. The enamel is then
ground to a smooth surface with pumice stone, polished and
the wires gilded.
In the Peking factories (Lao Tien Li recommended) one
may have any design copied. It should be remembered that
the wires are only gilded and that on any piece such as a
cigarette case which will receive much wear, this gilding will
soon wear off. Vases and other purely ornamental pieces will
not tarnish.
Lace.— Lace making was unknown to the Chinese before
the coming of the missionaries, but is now quite important
among the minor industries. As lace making has been taught
by missionaries coming from all parts of the world, the visitor
will find almost every variety of lace produced by the Chinese
and at prices which cannot be duplicated elsewhere. But
care should be observed by the purchaser, for with labor so
cheap, there is a tendency to use cheap materials even in th«
most elaborate pieces. Those desiring it may have exact
copies of laces made while in China, and at very small cost.
Embroidery.— The same qualities of patience and in-
dustry which have made the Chinese such excellent wood
LACQUltR
91
carvers have made them equally good at embroidery. This
is an art which they share with other nations of the East,
but the earlier development of the silk industry in China
gives Chinese embroidery a longer history than that of any
other country.
Developed locilly, there are many different styles of
embroidery, varying both as to the stitch and the colors
employed. One of the most famous of these is the Peking
stitch, made by twisting the thread around the needle, the
result being similar to the French knot, but much finer. The
high esteem in which the Chinese hold all ancient products is
more justified in embroidery than in many other things, for
with the recent introduction of aniliti dyes, and attempts to
copy foreign patterns, the harmony and beauty of the older
pieces has almost entirely disappeared.
The richest examples of modern embroidery are to be
seen in theatrical costumes, for no producer of America or
Europe ever lavished on his theatrical costumes one half of the
expense that is borne by the actors themselves in China. One
costume worn by an actor will have required the labor of ten
or twelve women for five years, and during the performance
he will appear in many different garments. Naturally, fashions
in these expensive gowns do not change rapidly.
A great deal of embroidery is produced now for foreign
sale by the women and girls in mission schools and the traveler
will be able to secure fine pieces at but a fraction of the cost
at home. A large quantity of embroidered mandarin robes
and other purely Chinese products are offered for sale at the
Chinese pawnshops and curio shops, often at prices which
barely cover the original cost of the material. With the
establishment of the Republic, these elaborate ceremonial
costumes have been abolished for plainer dress, and there is no
longer any local demand for them.
Lacquer. — The Chinese very early learned the uses of
products of the lac tree which is cultivated throughout central
and^ southern China. From it centuries ago they made
wonderful pieces of lacquer ware which are not excelled by
the present products of Japan. The sap of the lac tree is
92
HANDBOOK FOR CBIHA
drawn when the tree reaches an age of seven years, being
collected in middle and late summer for the use of the lacquer
makers. The wood to be lacquered is carefully polished and
covered with thin paper or fine silk. Over this is placed a
layer of lac covered with a mixture, often of emery powder,
red sandstone and vermillion, though other mixtures are made
up of different materials. The piece is then dried and the
whole process repeated from three to eighteen times. When
pieces are to bear a design, it is drawn on heavy paper and
then marked with fine pricks. The design is transferred
to the piece by powdered chalk, and drawn with a needle.
Carved lacquer is very expensive and is seldom produced
now. In its manufacture, a dark paste, in which powdered
egg shells have been mixed, is applied to the wood and allow-
ed to dry. The piece is then carved and several coats of lac
applied.
The whole process of lacquer making is tedious and re-
quires a long time. Foreigners have been unwilling to give
the Chinese workmen enough time to complete pieces ordered
and as a result inferior methods of manufacture have become
prevalent. The work is done in dust-proof rooms, and not
without a good deal of physical suffering, as the raw lac is
very irritating to the skin, and will cause small boils. The
oldest specimens of lacquer ware in the shops belong to the
Ming dynasty. The finest present-day products conic from
Niiigpo and Foochow though Canton produces large quanti-
ties for export.
THE GOVERNMENT OF CHINA
an Imperial Edict, following a success-
ful aiiti'dynastic revolution, the Man-
chus abdicated from the throne of China
and acquiesced in the establishment of a
Republican form of government. The
Abdication Edict was dated February
12, 1912, and at the time this is written
it is too early to discuss the Republican
government which, in administrative
methods has made few radical de-
partures. The system of government
which it replaced had existed unchanged
for several thousand years, for although
the Chinese have often rebelled against
tyrannical rule, they were quite content, ^
until recently, with the form of govern-
ment to which they were accustomed. Much of the old
system will doubtless survive, tempered by a constitution,
elected legislative bodies, and a new sense of individual
political rights. Since the establishment of the Republic
radical local reforms have taken place; and there have been
administrative changes in Peking but the machinery of
government remains much the same as it was under Manchu
rule. What follows is a description of the foundation on
which the Republican government of China may be built
With the constant changes of this transition period, it would
be folly to attempt anything else.
Theoretically the government of China was an absolute
monarchy, strengthened by the fiction that the Emperor was
the “Son of Heaven, who offered sacrifices direct to the
divine powers, leaving his subjects to follow any religion they
liked so long as their worship included the worship of himself.
This fiction had behind it many centuries of Chinese custom
and tradition.
9*
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
In theory only, the Emperor was supreme, held the power
of life and death over his subjects, could regulate their lives
down to the humblest detail, was not amenable to any earthly"
authority and from his decisions there was no appeal. Though
surrounded by boards of councillors and advisors, it was not
necessary for him to follow their advice, or even to pretend
to do so. His rule was by divine right and he was subject
only to the displeasure of heaven, manifested by floods and
famine when his rule had been unwise, or by rebellions when
it had been tyrannical.
The ancient Chinese system of government was a curious
growth from clan rule. The unit of government was the
village, which usually consisted of a single hamlet with its
surrounding farm land, although in the larger cities several
villages might be included within the walls. The chief officer
of the village was the Tipao or village head-man, who was
selected by the villagers and then received official recognition
or sometimes the practice was reversed and he was nominated
by the magistrate and confirmed by the villagers. He was
the representative of his fellow villagers in all official capacities
and in ordinary times w’as the only official with whom they
came in contact. He attended to the registry of deeds and
the collection of taxes and was responsible for the enforce-
ment of law and acted as constable and coroner.
This democratic form of selecting officials ended, how-
ever, with the Tipao and all others in the Empire received
their appointment and their power direct from Peking. Leav-
ing out of consideration the numerous boards and councils
which surrounded the Emperor, the chief administrative official
under him was the Viceroy, appointed as Governor General
over one or more provinces, each of which may or may not
have had its own Governor. Arapng Chinese the Governor
was known as Inspector, a name which survived his former
status, when he made periodic visits to the provinces to see
that the provincial officials were properly attending to their
duties. Eater he became a permanent resident and enjoyed
supreme authority in his own province, but subject to the
check of the Viceroy and the Tartar General, the latter person
GOVERNUKNT OF CHINA
95
having command of the Manchu garrisons in the various prov-
inces. Other provincial officials were the Treasurer, Judge,
and Commissioner of Education, the latter being a recent
addition to the list.
Within the province, the unit of governmental administra-
tion was the county or district which might contain a score
of villages in addition to the county seat. A few dis-
tricts formed a prefecture, while two or more prefectures
formed a circuit, under the jurisdiction of a Taotai. The
Taotai was an assistant to the Governor, having charge of
military operations within his own circuit. The Prefect was
a means of cpmmunication between the lower officials and his
superiors, rarely exercising any executive powers, but acting
as a court of appeal from the District Magistrates, when the
resources of the litigants enabled them to enjoy the luxury of
an appeal. The District Magistrate was the lowest in rank
of all of those «nppointed by Peking and the representative
of the throne who came in closest contact with the people.
It would be very difficult to find, in any other govern-
ment, officials whose duties corresponded to those of any
Chinese official of the old order. In theory he was able to
undertake any task, no matter how technical. If troops were
to be provided, tribute paid, dikes to be built, and» in later
days, railways projected, the Viceroys and Governors were
ordered to perform the various tasks, the government at Peking
rarely going any furtluer in its commands than to demand that
certain results be accomplished, leaving the manner of accom-
plishment entirely to the discretion of the official who received
the Imperial Edict, In practice, each official shifted the task
always to his immediate inferior and in this constant shifting
of work, most of it finally reached the District Magistrate,
who was last on the list and had to satisfy his superiors that
the work had been done. The 'source of power, the gradations
of rank and the shifting of tasks, were usually indicated in the
proclamations of the District Magistrate, a typical one begin-
ning:
“The Magistrate has had the honor to receive instructions
from the Prefect, who cites the directions of the Taotai, moved
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
%
by the Treasurer and the Judge, recipients of commands
of their excellencies the Viceroy and the Governor, acting at
the instance of the Foreign Board, who have been honored
with His Majesty’s commands.” Then follows the command
and the signature of the Magistrate who indicates again the
sources of the command which in theory came from the
Emperor, although it might concern nothing more important
than the abolishment of a tax*collecting office or the promotion
of an official.
Within his own district the Magistrate or Mayor was the
supreme official. He tried all cases, was judge, jury and
executioner, jailer, coroner, famine commissioner, tax collector,
road and bridge superintendent, treasurer, commissioner of
education, and chief of police, and assumed all the duties usual-
ly attended to by the officials found in a county or town of
another country. The annual salary of this busy official
amounted to $120 to $360 with an allowance of a larger sum
granted “for the encouragement of integrity among officials.”
But the salary was no indication of the emoluments of the
office, which might be and often were a thousand times the
amount. He was equipped with a large number of subord-
inates, yamen runners, messengers, jailers, clerks, and tax
collectors, for all of whom he must provide and all of whom
must, to the extent of the opportunities offered by their dele-
gated powers, provide for him.=^
Although possessor of supreme authority in his territory,
the Magistrate was careful in all of his official functions not to
offend public opinion or to presume too much on his power.
His one aim was to serve his three years' term of office with no
disturbances in his district which would attract the attention
of his superiors. The people always knew very effective
methods of embarrassing a too-officious Magistrate. When the
tax collectors made unusually heavy demands, the people in
the country rioted and set fire to the official yamen. In the
cities the guilds declared a cessation of trade, which is a strike,
or an interesting and iristrucdve account of the functions of a
Chinese official, see "Letters from a Chinese Official" a pamphlet pub-
lished by the Peking and Tientsin Times.
TIIK GOVERNMENT GP CHINA
97
lockout and boycott combined, thereby effectively cutting off
all the incidental revenue of the officials and soon attracting
attention from the superiors of the Magistrate. In extreme
cases they seized the Magistrate, bound him and carried him
to the Governor’s or the TaotaVs yamen with the announce-
ment that they would have no more to do with him. These
small rebellions agginst misused authority have been going on
constantly in China for centuries and formed a very effective
means of counterbalancing the despotic power of Feking, no
matter what the dynasty.
Ill the old days official advancement was ob'.aiued by
literary ability only, and the Prefect with his other duties was
charged with conducting the examinations in his prefecture.
Success at these examinations carried with it only the privilege
of taking part in the Provincial examinations. These examina-
tions were usually attended by from 10,000 to 12,000 students,
out of whom only a few hundred would pass. The successful
ones, again, were entitled to compete in the great Metropolitan
Examination at Peking. Out of 6000 competitors at this
examination, probably 3000 would be successful and the names
of these were placed on a list from which all official appoint-
ments were made, except those awarded to sons of old and
faithful public servants and to students who had failed to pass
the examinations but had made frequent attempts. Chinese
literature is full of stories of students who grew old and grey
in their attempts to pass the examinations, finally succeeded,
and died enjoying the dignity and wealth of official life.
During the last century of Manchu rule this ancient civil
service fell into disuse and in its place was substituted a rather
open system of selling official positions. Under the later
years of the Manchus this system was highly developed and
practically every official, before receiving his appointment,
was squeezed of enormous sums, only a small part of which
ever found its way into the government treasury. Secret as
these transactions presumably were, residents of China
generally knew the sums paid fo^ various offices. For instance,
a cabinet position was supposed to cost about 200,000 taeis,
and the lucrative post of Taotai of Shanghai was worth
98
HANDBOOK tOR CHINA
100,000 taels for each year the incumbent held office. In addi-
tion to these lump surtis, the prospective official was compelled
to oil his way to those in power by liberal gifts to all the
hangers-on of the big yamens, and to the eunuchs in the
Forbidden City.
This purchase price of the office was an investment which
the office holder soon regained by similar^ deals for official
positions included in his patronage, and it was customary for
the relatives and friends of an aspiring young man to finance
him for the purchase of an office, confident that he would
soon be able to repay the amount invested.
With the offices purchased outright, the incumbent
named for only three years, and with practically no supervi-
sion from Peking, it was natural that bribery and extortion
should develop in all official dealings. The Viceroys and
the Governors bought their offices at high prices from the
Manchus and high Chinese officials and they naturally ex-
pected to regain the price paid and a good profit during their
term of office, and also to recoup themselves for the frequent
presents it was necessary to give the authorities in Peking in
order to make their official lives endurable. The same system
extended throughout the official lin^ to the District Magistrate
who was always careful to employ gopd tax collectors, but
paid little attention to the repair of roads or bridges in a
district which would be his home for only a short time, and
under circumstances which made everything spent ou repairs
reduce his private income.
. The transportation of tribute rice offered a good example
of the means whereby Chinese officials regained the amount
paid for their appointments. This tribute rice, coming from
the southern and Yangtsze Valley provinces, was formerly
shipped by the Grand Canal, each provincial governor
through whose territory the shipments passed securing certain
sums for the expense of transportation. In addition to this,
each governor was charged with the maintenance of the canal
and for this was given a specified allowance. Finally, with
the partial filling up of the canal and the establishment of
coast steatnship lines, it became much cheaper to transport
GOVERNMENT OE CHINA
the rice in the steamships than in the canal barges. Practi-
cally all of the shipments were made in this way in recent
years, but in theory the rice was still hauled over the Grand
Canal and for this purpose a fleet of imaginary barges was
maintained at great official expense. At frequent intervals
this fleet was destroyed by a storm and was theoretically re-
built, all of which added to the income of a large body of
enterprising and pOqrly paid officials.
The deterioration of official life in China extended to all.
classes daring the latter part of the Mancha rule. The sale
of an appouitment to one high official soon spread the cor-
ruption through all the lower ranks of officialdom, through
his efforts to recoup himself, and at the beginning of the
present century the term “Chinese officiar* was a synonym
for inefficiency, corruption and tyranny. The respect ac-
corded the average official was measured chiefly by the fear
he inspired and when one, by his tolerance, public spirit and
comparative honesty, gained the good will of those over
whom he ruled, his name was linked with the. names of the
local heroes.
With the overthrow of the Manchu regime in 1911 China
became a Republic, although authorities disagree as to whether
or not it is a Republic in ii*§mc only. Among the forces uhich
overthrew the monarc % there were rival factions while not
a few of the monarchical adherents, by a quick change of
front, managed to ride in on the popular tide of republicanism.
As a result the republican administration has been beset
by factional difficulties which have made the organization of
a permanent and stable government impossible. Owing to
these difliculties no permanent constitution has been adopted,
the government being carried on under the provisions of the
hastily adopted provisional constitution of 1912. In actual
practice this constitution is disregarded. The adoption of a
more permanent constitution has been retarded by the fact
that during most of the time since the establishment of the
Republic, two parliaments have been in session, one in Peking
and one in Canton, each of these bodies denying the legal
existence of the other.
100
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
With the country divided into two factions the natural
result has been the weakening of the central government and
the strengthening of the provincial governments. The civil
governor of the Manchu regime remains while the Tartar
General has been replaced by the Tiichun, or military governor.
Each of the military governors is in command of a body of
troops which he governs and on whose strength he relies as
a means of securing money from the central government.
While these weaknesses of administration are recognized and
deplored by all who know China, there have been actual
benefits from the change in form of government, these being
seen in the increased sense of nationalism and patriotism on
the part of all classes of Chinese.
Since the overthrow of the Manchus there have been two
abortive attempts to restore a monarchical form of govern-
ment, one by Yuan Shih Kai who sought to found an imperial
line, and after his death, an attempt on the part of the
reactionary Chang Hsun to restore the Manchu line. On
both these occa'sions the opposition of the Chinese people was
so determined and outspoken as to indicate that the old form
of government is gone forever and that the political future
of China will be worked out along modern and Western lines
rather than the old and Oriental. Thi^does not involve such
radical changes as one might think for the Chinese people
have for many centuries of their long history enjoyed a form
of local self-government more liberal, perhaps, than that
afforded in any other country. According to the theory of at
least one school of political economy the Chinese government
was the best because the individual Chinese subject was
amenable to fewer laws and had less taxes to pay than the
citizen or subject of any other civilized country.
That the change from the monarchical to the Republican
form of government should be marked by a decade or so of
confusion and dissension should not be surprising to any one
who is familiar with the history of 'dynastic or political
changes in other countries, where decades must pass before
the people adapt themselves to and accept the new form of
government. Is it any wonder that the most populous country
TH« GOVERN MCNt OF CHINA
101
in the world,— the oldest monarchy— should be slow about
realizing in practical form the change in government they
have undertaken ?
At the time this is written, China is preparing to celebrate
the ninth anniversary of the establishment of the republic.
Ail of the ten years have been beset with difficulties and most
of them made memorable by rebellions. As the anniversary
approaches China is divided between north and south and each,
section is ruled by a group of military dictators who govern
by reason of their control of soldiery rather than because of
the popular will. An academic study of the republican
government as compared with the monarchical might find little
cause for congratulation at the change; but one who has
followed the changes in the national consciousness of the
ordinary Chinese citizen rather than the changes in the official
roster; who has counted the improved streets in the provincial
cities instead of following the partisan debates of the power-
less parliaments in Canton and Peking; who has noted the
great increase in cottoi. and flour mills, newspapers, books,
schools, and other symbols and mediums of modern civiliza-
tion, cannot doubt that China by her change in form of
governnjent has definitely thrown off the old hampering
traditions and is prewiring to take in affairs of the world the
position to which she is entitled by reason of her history, her
enormous area and resources and her great population.
SHANGHAI
(And the Yangtsze Valley.)
fineral Information. — Distance from lyOn-
doii by sea, 11,000 miles; from San
Francisco, 5000 miles; from Hongkong,
850 miles. Local time 8 hours in advance
of Greenwich. Shanghai lies, in 31® 14*
N. latitude and 120^^ 29’ E. longitude
being on the same parallel as Cairo and
New Orleans.
Population * foreigners, about 25,000 :
Chinese, about 2,000,00a. These popula-
tion figures include all adjoining
municipalities and villages.
Aukival: Some steamers anchor at
Woosung, 13 miles distant, from which
place passengers are conveyed to the
landing jetty on the Bund^ by steam
lender. There is no landing charge.
Other steamers tic up at docks within ^sy distance ot principal
hotels. Steamers arriving from IlanTOw or other Yangtsze
River ports tie up at the Bund. Passengers from the North
by train arrive at the station of the Shanghai-Nanking Rail-
way. Representatives of all hotels meet the .steamer or ten-
der and take charge of baggage. Principal hotels are within
a short distance of the jetty and may be reached by riesha.
Looiitnvha Pagoda,
Shanghai
HotivLS : Astor House, Palace, Kalee, Burlington, Hotel
des Colonies, Bickerton’s. AH hotels are on the American
plan. Restaurants: Carlton, Parisien, Trocadero, Astor
Grill. The Great Eastern, Yih Ping Shang and Oriental Hotels,
under Chinese ownership and management, serve foreign
style meals and are patroliized by some foreign travelers.
Consulates: Belgium, Brazil, Denmark, France, Great
Britain, Italy, Japan, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Russia,
Spain, Sweden, United States.
PosTOEEicEs : In addition to the Chinese postofhee, others
are located in Shanghai for the benefit of their respective
nationals, the rates of postage through the various foreign
SHANGHAI
lOJ
offices to the countries they represent being about the usual
domestic rate. The postoffices are located as follows: —
An;erioan. 9 Whangpoo Road; British, 7 Peking Road:
French, 4S Rue Moutauban: Japanese, la Seward Road,
Russian, I\\ Soochow Road; Chinese, 9 Peking Road.
Telegrams and Cables : Offices of foreign cable companies
are located in the block between Canton and Foochow' Roads,
on the Bund, the office of the Chinese Telegraphs being just
in the rear. Cable rates are based on gold quotations and the
rate in local currency is changed each quarter in accordance
with exchange fluctuations.
Railways: Shanghai-Nanking Railway, from Shanghai to
Nanking, 193 miles, connecting by steam launch across the
Yangtsze with the Tientsin-Pukow line; Shanghai-Hangchow-
Ningpo Railway, from Shanghai to Hangchow, 125 miles. The
latter line will eventually be extended to Ningpo.
Foreign Churches: Holy Trinity Cathedral. Union
Church, St. Andrew’s Church, Free Christian Church, Church
of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, St. Joseph’s Deutsche Evangeli-
sche Kirchc, Japanese Union Church, Orthodox Greek Church.
Transportation : Carriage hire, per hour $r ; half day or
evening, $3; full day, $5, Rieshas, half hour, 20 cts. ; hour
40 cts. ; half day, 80 cts. ; whole day, $1.40. Motor cars, $2 to $4
per hour. Tramways, average fare 6 cts. per mile.
Newspapers: Daily English: North China Daily News,
China Press, Mercury, Times, Gazette ; French : L’^Echo de
Chine; English weeklies, Millard^s Review, Finance &
Commerce. Many daily Chinese papers are published in
Shanghai, in addition to many weekly and monthly publications.
Steamer Routes : Shanghai is a port of call for nearly all
the Trans- Pacific and European steamship lines as well as the
steamers which run from Japanese to Australian ports. At
the time this edition goes to press, all shipping in the Far East
is undergoing a post war period of re-adjustment, with so many
changes in service and rates that any information given here
would be out of date before the book is published. It will be
sufficient to say that Shanghai is the most centrally located of
all the Far Eastern ports and frequent sailings can be had to
all points on the China Coast, to Japan, the Philippines or
other countries of Eastern Asia.
Currency : The old standard currency of Shanghai was the
Mexican dollar but of recent )'ears Chinese dollars of the same
value have come into general circulation. The small coins,
ten and twenty rent pieces and coppers, arc always depreciated
and the dollar is usually exchanged for about no certts.
IvOcal banks issue bank notes payable in Mexican or local
104
bakubook foa caiNA
currency. Locaf money exchange shops are licensed and
strictly regulated by the Municipal Council.
Tkaox op Shanghai :
The foreign trade of Shanghai in the past two years was:
Net Foreign Imports<
Net Chinese Imports.
Exports
Total, Hk. Taels.....
i9i8 \
65.000. 000
38.000. 000
102.000. 000
208.000. 000
1919
84.000. 000
34.000. 000
121.000. 000
240.000. 000
Shanghai, the commercial metropolis of the China Coasts
IS one of the most interesting and cosmopolitan places in the
world, and the most important of the treaty ports. It is a
peculiar mixture of East and West, the dominating businesa
elements being western, while the greater part of the popula-
tion is Oriental. The street scenes are particularly full of
color, for one can see here almost every national costume.
Chinese, of course, make up the bulk of the population, but the
Chinese inhabitants themselves are greatly mixed, coming from
nearly every province in the country. Japanese contribute a
large part of the alien population and bring with them their
distinctive dress. In the Hongkew section are to be found
extensive Japanese settlements, with many shops which deal in
nothing but Japanese goods. Alongside them will be found
shops which deal exclusively in Indian goods, besides, Russian,
British, French and American shops which cater for their
particular nationalities. Every nation in Europe is represented
here ; in fact there is scarcely a nation in the world which has
not helped to make up the cosmopolitan community. Malays,
Parsees, Sikhs, Japanese, Koreans, Annamese, Brahmins,
Hindus, Singalese, Persians, Turks and Javanese are to be
seen on the streets daily.
The native city, which gives its name to the now important
port of Shanghai, is not one of very great importance, either
commercially or historically. It was a small rival of the
greater cities of Soochow and Hangchow, before the coming
of foreigners started it on the way to becoming one of the
great ports of China. When the Treaty of Nanking v/as signed
(1843) between China and Great Britain, Shanghai was included
as the mosf noriher n of the five ports to be made open to foreign
SBANCBAI
105
residence and trade. It is no longer considered to be a part of
North China but the earlier geographical division is perpetuated
in the name of the eldest local newspaper, the North China
Daily News. Until opened to foreign trade it had been nothing
more than a port of call for seagoing junks. The settlement
was formally opened on November 17, 1843, atid at first grew
very slowly. At the end of the first year as an open port,
Shanghai had but 23 foreign residences, one consular flag,
II business firms and two Protestant missionaries.
The site which had been selected for a British Settlement
was little more than a reed-covered marsh, intersected by
many small canals, and what is now the famous and handsome
street called the Bund was then only a path used by the boat
trackers. The settlement limits were marked by what are now
Peking Road, Avenue Edward VII, Honan Road and the Bund.
One of the first tasks of foreign residents was to make this
place habitable. How well that work has been accomplished
only the visitor to Shanghai can appreciate. Six years after
the British Settlement was marked out, the Chinese govern-
ment gave territory to France for a settlement between the
Chinese city and the British Concession. In the late
fifties Americans leased ground on the north of the British
Settlement though the so-called American settlement was
never formally taken over by the American Government
and in 1863 the British and American Settlements were
combined as the International Settlement, while the French
remains distinct. Thus there are three separate municipalities
in Shanghai: the Chinese City, the French Settlement and the
International Settlement. \\V In addition there ate several
Chinese municipalities which border on theforeign settlements.
The most important section is the International Settlement
which is governed by a Municipal Council. The Council is
elected by the Eurc^ean, Japanese and American taxpayers of
the settlement, and serves without pay. Under its long and
honorable administration, streets have been improved, the
town made healthful, parks and gardens acquired, until
Shanghai has come to be known as “The Model Settlement.”
Its modern buildings, clean, paved streets, and air of business
106
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
activity usually surprise the visitor who expects to find a
Chinese city rather than one which has the air of an Europeaiv
metropolis. The city is built on the lianks of the Whangpoo, a
river which flows into the Yangtsze near the sea. All the
surrounding country is a level plain, which because of its
fertility is the garden spot of China. The great productiveness
of the country as well as the commanding position of Shanghai
in the trade of the Yangtsze Valley have combined to make
it one of the most important business centers of the Far East.
Its trade territory embraces a population of about 200,000,000,
or half the population of China.
The visitor coming up the Whangpoo on a steam tender
sees but little that suggests the Orient. The river is crowded
with shipping, the waters dotted with large and small steamers,
tugs, lighters and sampans. The smoke stacks of many
factories stand out in a skyline which recalls memories of
Europe or America. On the shore there are huge ship building
plants, warehouses, cotton mills, silk filatures, oil tanks, docks
and a busy line of railway, the branch of the Shanghai-Nan-
king line from Shanghai to Woosung. The line from Shanghai
to Woosung was the first railway to be constructed in China,
it being built from Shanghai to Kiangwan by a British firm in
1876. For a short time the road was run successfully, but soon
native opposition developed, which grew to such serious
proportions that the Chinese government bought the line. The
rails and rolling stock were shipped to Formosa and dumped
on the beach to disappear in rust. The present line was built
many years later.
The traveler who arri /cs on a trans-Pacific steamer is
hinded on the Bund, the principal street, which marks the
water front of the city. It is shaded and inviting and behind
the trees are the proud buildings of the city’s principal banks
and business houses. The strange mixture which makes up
Shanghai is well illustrated by the medley of vehicles which
crowd the Bund at all times. They include tramcars, car-
riages, motor cars, rieshas, sedan-chairs and wheelbarrows,
all contending for the right of way.
The Northern end of the Bund is marked by the Garden
SBANOBAI
107
Bridge which spans Soochow creek. It may be interesting to
the newcomer to know that the slope over this bridge is the
steepest to be found on any Shanghai road and that motor
cars which can negotiate it have achieved the most gruelling
hill climbing test Shanghai can offer. The river life as seen
from the bridge is always interesting. Soochow Creek is
usually crowded with lighters for much of the cargo discharged
at Woosung is brought up this creek for storage in warehouses
along Soochow Road. Near the bridge are anchored the
many houseboats owned by Shanghai residents.
The public garden on the Bund at the junction of Soochow
creek and the Whangpoo is largely made ground. A small
vessel was wrecked near the present band stand and mud
collected round it. The muddy marsh, formerly a part of the
grounds of the British Consulate, was ceded to the settlement
by the British Foreign office and the present handsome garden
was built. In the garden and on the Bund lawn are a number
of monuments. Just inside the souhwest gate pf the garden
is a monument to the foreign officers of the “Ever-Victorious
Army" who fell in attacks against the Taiping rebels. At the
termination of Nanking road is a statue of Sir Harry Parkes,
British Minister to China, 1882-5. Before going to Peking as
British Minister he had served as British Consul at Canton,
Amoy and Shanghai and Minister to Japan and Korea. Near
by is a statue of Sir Robert Hart, who was for so many
years Inspector-General of the Chinese customs and to whom
much of the credit for organising that efficient service is due.
The finest business buildings in Shanghai are located on
the Bund. At the time this is written many of the older
buildings are being replaced by more modern structures and
it is possible that in a few years the entire Bund frontage
will be filled with six-storey buildings, the maximum size
allowable because of Shanghai's mud foundation. In the early
days of the settlement all the business houses were located pn-
this street./. Land was cheap then and these pioneer concerns
provided themselves with liberal sites. With few exceptions^
these concerns have kept their original locations, so that here
as elsewhere on the China coast a Bund address has come tp
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
10:5
signify age and stability. Among the notable buildings are
those of Jardine, Matheson & Co; Chartered Bank, Hongkong
& Shanghai Bank, Customs House, North China Daily News,
Palace Hotel and Russo-Asiatic Bank. The British Consulate
occupies a large area near the bridge. At the junction of the
Bund and Jinkee Road is a striking building of German
architecture, formerly the German Club. Near the junc-
tion with Avenue Edward VII, the street which separates
the International from the French Settlement, is the Shanghai
Club, the oldest and most important organisation of its kind
in the city and famous for the possession of what is reputed
to be the longest bar in the world, no feet.
Second in importance and in interest to the Bund is
Nanking Road, the location of the large foreign and Chinese
shops, the retail shopping street of the city. A few years ago
it was, except for a few blocks near the Bund, composed
almost entirely of two-storey native shops. Now many of
these have been replaced by what has aptly been described as
buildings of the ‘'compradoresque’' style of architecture, many
of them gorgeously colored with gold leaf. But the most
striking buildings on the road are two great Chinese department
.stores occupying opposite sides of the street at the Chekiang
Road crossing. Each store is under Chinese management
and each, in addition to its merchandise, maintains a modern
hotel, roof garden, restaurant, etc. A little farther on, at the
junction with Thibet Road (formerly Defence Creek) is
another pair of twin buildings, the “xMew World'* and “Great
World." These are modern Chinese amusement palaces and
each is equipped with arcades, skating rinks, menagerie, cine-
tn.as, restaurants and a thousand and one devices which enable
one to while away an evening. The two places are connected
by a subway under Nanking Road so that for one admission
ticket visits may be paid to both places. The construction of
these places of amusement and other improvements on Nan-
king Road have seemed to rob Foochow Road of its former
positio i as “The Great White Way" of Shanghai, for the
famous old restaurants of that street have not been able to
hold their own against these mpdern innovations. But Foo*
SHANGHAI
109
chow Road is still worth visiting especially at night when it is
ablaze with electric lights.
Thibet Road marks the end of Nanking Road, for from
that point on it is known as Bubbling Weil Road, formerly
the premier residence street of the city and still the most
famous street in the Far East. At the beginning of Bubbling
Well Road, only one mile from the Bund, is the Race course.
The presence of this fine race track and recreation ground
in what is now the heart of the city is a striking evidence of
the rapid growth of the place, for in the sixties when this
magnificent piece of land was acquired, it was on the outskirts.
Here the semi-annual race meets arc held in the spring and
autumn and the city maintains an old custom of its early
days by taking a halt holiday on race days.
No visit to Shanghai would be complete without a drive
through the residential portions of the city. Formerly the
fine residences were grouped about Bubbling Well Road but
now there are many streets able to compete with that older
thoroughfare. The French Settlement in recent years has
become the residential center for the rapidly growing
American colony while many pretentious mansions of many
nationalities are found on Avenue Joflfre. Nor should anyone
fail to drive around the Rubicon Road, the one country motor
road the city possesses. From any hotel the round trip can
be made in an hour without breaking the speed regulations.
The road takes one out of sight and sound of the city and
affords an excellent opportunity to see the Chinese country
side.
To list the parks, clubs, public buildings, etc, of Shanghai,
would be as tedious a task as to list similar things in any big
city of Europe and America. But, after all, Shanghai is a
foreign rather than a Chinese city. In spite of the great bulk
of Chinese population, its instututions are foreign and the
Chinese residents are more or less under foreign influence.
Anyone who studies China from the point of view of Shanghai
is sure to carry away wrong impressions. Because of the
size of the place and the importance of the local foreign
communities, Shanghai is, to most Shanghai residents, suffi-
no
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
cient unto itself. If one wants to see Chinese life, or study
things Chinese, he must go elsewhere.
Shanghai is essentially a commercial city, as is evident
to the visitor as soon as he arrives. The stretch of the
Whangpoo from Woosung to the Bund is always the
anchorage for dozens of ocean going steamers while on both
sides of the river are factories and warehouses. The Bund
foreshore is usually crowded with boxes and bales which
hundreds of coolies are transporting by means of bamboo
poles on their shoulders, keeping step to the sounds of shrill
cries which are repeated so persistently that a newcomer
often thinks a riot is in progress. In recent years imports
and exports have been rather evenly balanced, each running
to about Tls. 200,000,000 annually. The Customs revenue is
more than three times that of any other port and about one
fourth the total for all of China. The principal imports are
cotton cloth, iron and steel and kerosene, while the most
important exports are silk, skins, wood oil, etc. While
Shanghai is the commercial center of China it has also, of
recent years, grown in importance in manufacturing. There
are now about thirty cotton spinning and weaving works, and
in addition many soap, match and cigarette factories and paper
mills. One of the most notable successes in the manufactur-
ing line is the plant put up by the General Electric Co. of New
York for the manufacture of electric light bulbs. Here in a
very short time inexperienced Chinese labor has been trained
to turn out an article equal to that produced in America or
Europe. There seems little doubt but that the city will make
remarkable development in manufacturing in the next decade.
This development is being fostered by the municipality which,
through the municipal electric plant, affords a cheap supply of
electric power to the factories.
Shanghai is also the publishing center of China. The largest
and most important of Chinese newspapers are published here.
One of them, the Shun Pao, occupies a structure which would
do credit to any Western city. Here are located the large
mission publishing houses and the headquarters of the Bibb:
societies which each year sell hundreds of thousands of Bible!:'
SHANGHAI
lU
printed in the vernacular. Among the purely Chinese
enterprises worthy of note is the Commercial Press, a large
printing and publishing establishment employing about 2000
skilled Chinese workers. This and other concerns turn out a
constant stream of Chinese books, pamphlets and magazines,
many of them consisting of translations of foreign books. A
visit to the plant of the Commercial Press will be found
full of interest.
Until very recently the Chinese city remained unchanged
by the proximity of the foreign settlement and up to the time
of the establishment of the Republic was still surrounded by
walls which were first put up in the 14th century and repaired
and replaced many times since then. With the establishment
of the Republic, the Chinese officials have shown more energy
in cleaning up the streets though much remains to be done.
It is typical of Chinese cities, being filled with small shops
where all kinds of curios and Chinese goods can be purchased.
Near the center of the city, in a small artificial lake, and
reached by the zigzag bridges so common in China is a famous
tea-house, often pointed out as the original of the tea house
pictured in the famous willow pattern porcelain. This is a
mistake for the story of the willow pattern plate is older than
this tea house and in China there are many tea houses of this
type. There is nothing of interest to be seen in the building,
but from the top a comprehensive view of the tiled roofs of the
city may be obtained. The city contains several temples and
gardens and other places worth visiting. One of the most
interesting points is the section given over to bird dealers,
well patronized by the Chines^. Nearby is a tea house,
where the patrons bring their feathered pets and listen to
their songs while they drink tea- Guides, not more than
usually avaricious or untruthful, are always to be found
loitering about the approaches but more trustworthy ones may
be secured from the hotel or Cook’s. The stranger will
certainly be lost, as in other Chinese cities, if he ventures into
the city alone.
The finest native shops are to be found in the International
Settlement. The best Chinese jewelry is to be found on
112
HANBOOX BOR CHINA
Nanking Road, although the smaller places on side streets ask
much lower prices. Those in search of silks and furs should
go to Honan Road, where they will find the largest shops and
the best variety. At these places usually only one price is
asked. Curio shops are to be found all over the city and
Shanghai, next to Peking, offers the richest stocks of curios to
he found in the country. One of the finest stocks of Chinese
curios is carried by Li Van Chen at 35 Rue Eugene Bard.
One of the most interesting curio centers is in the native
city, near the Willow Pattern tea-house. Here the small
dealers spread their wares on the tables of a tea house and
await customers, meanwhile trading among themselves.
Sicca wei Road leads to the settlement of that name
established by the French Jesuits in 1847. "The name of the
place (literally Zi-Kai-Wei) means ‘‘Homestead of the Z\
Family,^’ recalling the famous Zi Kwang-chi, a cabinet minister
of the i6th century who became a convert of Matteo Ricci and
was a valuable ally of the early Christian missionaries. The
Zi family have been Christians for more than 300 years. The
settlement consists of a number of interesting buildings,
in which useful missionary work is carried on. One of the
principal groups of buildings is given over to a convent, where
Chinese girls are taught embroidery and lace making, many of
them being given to the convent by parents too poor to care for
them. The inmates number several thousand. A short
distance away is the furniture and brass shop, maintained in a
similar style for Chinese boys. The most popular production
of theshopis beautiful carved teakwood furniture. One of
the most complete meteorological observatories in the world
is maintained here by the Jesuits. Its service covers all of the
coast of China, weather predictions being sent out twice daily
and typhoon warnings sent to all the ports in the Far East.
This service, as complete as the government weather service in
other countries, saves many lives and thousands of dollars-
worth of shipping annually, and is maintained entirely at the
expense of the Jesuits.
Shanghai is an important center for missionary work and
administration and i.a the business headquarters of many
SHANGHAI
113
missionary enterprises. A number of societies are working in
Shanghai and the missionary and allied population amounts
to several hundred. The head office of the China Inland
Mission, and head office for China of the American Bible
Society are here, as well as the headquarters of the Christian
Literature Society and several other similar organisations.
Large publishing establishments are maintained by the Ameri-
can Methodist Episcopal Mission and the American Presby-
terian Mission. St. John’s University, one of the leading
schools of China, whose graduates occupy high positions, was
established by the American Episcopal Mission and occupies
beautiful grounds on the outskirts of the town. Among ihe
other notable enterprises are St. Luke's Hospital and St. Eliza-
beth’s Hospital for women (American Episcopal Mission)
London Mission Hospital, the Margaret Williamson Hospital
for Women (Women’s Union Mission), MctyeireHigh school
for Chinese Girls (Methodist Episcopal Mission, South) and
the Door of Hope Rescue Home and industrial schools. A large
number of smaller schools, chapels, orphanages, etc. are to be
found in all parts of the native city and the two settlements.
In addition to the schools maintained by the municipality for
Chinese and foreign children, there are a great many public,
private and semi-private schools, including the French school,
Jewish .school, American school, Japanese school, etc.
One will find in Shanghai his best opportunity to visit a
Chinese theatre. The drama in China until a few years ago
occupied about the same position as the Mediaeval drama of
Europe. The plays were mostly of a religious or historical
character and were performed on appropriate anniversaries by
strolling bands of players in temples or in the courtyards of
large residences. Usually the players were paid for the per-
formance by a guild, by a private individual, or by public
subscription. With the growth of the big Chinese population
in the foreign settlement of Shanghai, western ideas made
great changes in the drama of China and there are now in
Shanghai a number of pretentious Chinese theatres conducted
on western lines.
With the last few years, there have been a number of
114
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
foreign plays translated into Chinese, and others written about
foreign characters. Of these, Napoleon is the favorite, and
no traveler should miss an opportunity to see Napoleon and
Josephine as portrayed by Chinese actors. The native pro-
ducer of today is quite as up-to-date as his foreign contem-
porary, and before the end of the recent revolution in China,
the theatres of Shanghai were producing plays which portrayed
the stirring battles of the revolution. Formerly actors were
placed at the bottom of the social scale, along with barbers
and beggars. But the late Empress Dowager did a great deal
to put an end to this, for she was very much interested in
theatricals and received many famous actors at the palace.
Both Cantonese and Pekinese actors appear in vShanghai.
At Sungkiang, 25 miles southwest of Shanghai on the
Shanghai-Hangchow Railway, is the grave of General Fred-
erick Ward, the American who fought against the Taipings
and organized the “Ever Victorious Army” taken over by
General Gordon after Ward’s death. The cemetery, which
contains also the temple erected by the Chinese in honor of
Ward, is outside the West Gate of Sungkiang. Ward was
severely wounded in an engagement in Chekiang province
September 20, 1862, and died the next day. His body was
brought back to Sungkiang, where he had recruited his Chinese
volunteers. A tablet at the tomb sets forth his praises as
follows: “An illustrious man from beyond the seas, he came
6000 li to accomplish great deeds and acquire an immortal
fame by shedding his noble blood. Because of him Sung-
kiang shall be a happy land for a thousand autumns. This
temple and statue shall witness to his generous spirit.”
There are many Chinese and foreign houseboats avail-
.able in Shanghai, and the traveler will find this not only the
wost pleasant, but a very cheap method of seeing many of the
surrounding points of interest. But the trip should not be
attempted during the mosquito season, which extends over
the greater part of the summer. Several companies operate
steam launches which make daily trips between Shanghai,
Soochow and Hangchow, towing long strings of house or
cargo boats. The launch trains leave the landings on Soochow
SHANGHAI
115
creek each afternoon about 5 o’clock, reaching Soochow- early
the following morning or Hangchow during the following
afternoon. If the traveler is in no hurry, he can take a lei-
surely trip, the boat being yulocd* or sailed, stopping at any
point he likes.
Houseboats may be rented for $8 to $12 a day, servants
and provisions being extra. The hotels are usually able to
make all arrangements for houseboat trips, or they can be
made through Cook’s. Some of the most popular short trips
are as follows :
Week Bud Trip to the Leave Shanghai Friday,
sail or yuloh by way of Jessfield, reaching the hills af Feng-
wan-shan Saturday night. Spend Sunday on the hills, leaving
Sunday night and reaching Shanghai Monday morning.
Triangular Tn^.— The trip* from Shanghai to Hang-
chow, thence to Soochow and return to Shanghai may be
made in six days. Leaving Shanghai in tow at 5 o’clock in
the afternoon, one will arrive in Hangchow about twenty
hours later, giving time to make arrangements that afternoon
for the trip through the West Lake in a local boat on the
following day*;, taking luncheon along and returning to the
houseboat in the afternoon. Spend the fourth day in visiting
Hangchow city, leave that afternoon for Soochow, reaching
there early the following morning. Soochow should be visit-
ed in two ways, through the streets and through the canals,
for each trip*will give an entirely different impression of the
city. Leaving Soochow in tow of a steam launch at 4 o’clock
in the afternoon, one will arrive in Shanghai early the follow-
ing morning.
By adding one day to the trip, one may visit the beauti-
ful lake Ta Hu. There are many opportunities to extend a
houseboat trip by traversing the Grand Canal, visiting Ching-
kiang, Wusieh and other places.
Any houseboat or rail trip from Shanghai will show the
intricate system of canals with which this part of the China
coast is intersected. These canals furnish the principal
The yuloh is a long single oar worked in the rear of the boat.
116
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
means of transportation, taking the place of roads in other
countries, and in addition furnish the water wnth which
the land is irrigated, while the rich silt at the bottom is
periodically scraped out and used to fertilize the fields.
LfOonghwa Pagoda,— Tht visitor who cannot visit any
other city in China should see the Loonghwa pagoda, easily
reached either by houseboat or motor car. The pagoda is by
no means a fine one but it is typical and no one should leave
China without seeing an example of this peculiar Chine5e
architecture. A climb to the top gives an excellent view of
the surrounding country but owing to the dilapidated condi-
tion of the structure it is safer to remain on the ground.
Books for further Reference: Those who wish more
detailed information regarding Shanghai should purchase
Rev. C. H, Darwent's ^'Shanghai, a handbook for Travelers
and Residents’^ published by Kelly Walsh.
Woosung. — A fairly good motor road now leads to Woo-
sung, a favorite Sunday afternoon drive. A few miles from
Woosung is the old walled city of Pao-shan, formerly an
important place but now semi-deserted. It was formerly a
center for the spinning of cotton yarn and the weaving of
cotton cloth— all being done by hand. But with the coming
of foreign cotton mills in Shanghai and the increased im-
portation of foreign piece goods, the industry which was the
mainstay of Pao-shan has languished and a large part of the
population has moved to Shanghai. Plowever the old hand
looms remain — one of them being found in every home and
the traveler who is interested in Chinese handicrafts will find
no better opportunit to study the native weaving industry.
Hangchow. — This City with a population of 750,000, is
located on the Shanghai-Hangchow-Ningpo Railway and also
on the Ch'ieii T’ang River, no miles southwest of Shanghai.
The towing charge for a houseboat from Shanghai to the
Hangchow Settlement is from $10. to $15. 'From the Settle-
ment it is necessary to go by train to the city station and thence
to a hotel. Several Chinese hotels serve foreign style meals but
the New Hotel on the West Lake is especially recommended.
Among the renowned cities of China, Hangchow the
HANGCHOW
117
capital of Chekiang Province, holds a most important place.
Few other cities have pla3'ed such an important part in the
dramatic history of the country and few others are as pic-
turesque, though most of its ancient glories have disappeared
and the city is only a fraction of the size it was in its prime,
in point of historical interest Hangchow is second only to
Peking, while for the beauty of its surroundings it is even
now second to no other city in China.
The earliest notes we have of the site of Hangchow date
back to the time of the great King Yu about B. C. 2198, who
organized the river systems of China and stopped the floods.
In his travels he is said to have landed here, hence the original
name of Yu Hang, the ‘Tlace of the Boat-landing by Yu.”
About B.C. 210, the first emperor of the Ch’in dynasty came
to the foot of the hill where the Needle Pagoda now stands
and fastened his boat to the large rock now known as the Great'
Buddha. Evidently even at that time the plain of Hangchow
was flooded by the sea. From early times to considerably later
than the Christian era the present city hill and what is now
known as Phoenix Hill were occupied by fishermen who lived
in squalid huts.
Ill A. D. 606 Yang Su built the first city walls and changed
the early name to the present name of Hangchow. The walls
he built are said to have been 36 li and 90 paces in cir-
cumference. In A. D. 893, Ch’ien Liu, before he became the
first of the famous Wu-Yueh Kings, rebuilt the walls of
Hangchow with the circumference enlarged to 70 li or about
23 miles.
Then under the famous Wu-Yueh Kings, 900-980 A. D. four
in all, there came Hangchow’s golden age of building, when
most of the famous monasteries, temples and all the pagodas
were built. It was during this period that the first dyke walls
were built, by Ch’ien Liu, about 910 A. D. and since then his
name has ever been associated with this great work of engineer-
ing, in spite of the fact that many subsequent alterations have
been made. These dykes were built to hold the tidal wave or
bore within certain reasonable shore and river limits. There
are those who arc now living who have seen this bore ri^e toi
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HANDBOOK TOR CHINA
the height of 22 feet at Haining, the mouth of the Ch*ien T^ang
River. It has been grandiloquently described by an ancient
Ijhilosopher, Chuaqg Chow, as being like “a high mountain,
its crest as high as a house, its sound like thunder, its onward
rush sufficient to move the heavens and to wash the face of
the sun."
The second golden age in the history of Hangchow came
in the times of the Southern Sung Dynasty A. D. 1130-1278.
Hangchow became the center of foreign trade in China.
“Here the Parsee could be seen worshiping the rising sun or
bowing at his fire altar, or carrying a corpse to the Tower
of Silence : here the Jew intoned his Law and rested on the
Sabbath: here the Christian, who had come overland from
Persia, read his Syriac Bible: here too the Moslem built his
.Mosque, whence the muezzin chanted five times daily the
sonorous call to prayer."
InA.D. 1278 great Mongol hordes came to Hangchow,
then called Lin-an, demolished its splendid walls and took
vengeance on its inhabitants. Great libraries, both public and
private, for which Hangchow was renowned, were confiscated
and burned. Thousands of families were utterly annihilated
and their estates confiscated.
Marco Polo came to Hangchow, following the Mongol
invasion, and his description of the city shows that much of
its ancient grandeur had remained and some of it had been
restored. Even then, in art, literature and commerce it was
the Queen City of the Orient. It was the center of Oriental
fashions and gaiety. Hither came merchants, travelers,
missionaries and adventurers to view the place and enjoy
material delights. The account that Marco Polo gives reads
almost like the stories of ancient Rome in regard to the
sensual indulgences of the people.
Friar Odoric, who visited China A. D. 1324-1327 wrote
of it as follows: “Departing thence I came unto the city of
Cailsay, (Hangchow), a name which signifieth the City of
Heaven and *tis the greatest city in the whole world, so great
indeed that I should scarcely venture to tell of it, but that I
have met in Venice people in plenty who have been there. It
SAKOaftOW
119
is a Rood hundred miles in compass, and there is not in it a
span of ground that is not well peopled. And many a tenement
is there that shall have ten or twelve households comprised
in it. And there lie also great suburbs which contain a greater
population than even the the city itself. This city is situated
upon lagoons of standing water, with canals like the city of
Venice and it hath more than 12,000 bridges on each of which
are stationed guards, guarding the city on behalf of the Great
Khan. But if any one should desire to tell all the vastness
and great marvels of this city, a good quire of stationery
would not hold the matter, I trow. For 'tis the grandest and
noblest city and the finest for merchandise that the whole
world containeth.”
After the Mongols were driven out Chang Shih Hsiii
rebuilt the walls of Hangchow about A. D. 1359 and because
of great military emergency it is said the walls were completed
in three days and three nights. The walls were thirteen miles
in circumference and thirty feet high. The record states that
in order to build the walls in this short space of time it re-
quired S40»ooo stone masons, 50,000 carpenters, 360,000
plasterers, 6,675 metal workers and 4,500,000 coolies. The
stone for this work was quarried from near the site of the
present Needle Pagoda.
In A. D. 1651, Emperor Shun Chih of the Ch’ing Dynasty
built the wall of the recent Tartar City, which wall has been
torn down since the Revolution and the entire section has been
made into the present modern city, still called the “Tartar
City.'’ In this same Ch’ing or Manchu Dynasty, Hangchow
was honored by several visits from two of China’s greatest
emperors, K’ang Hsi and Ch’ieii Eung. Many evidences of
the visits of these emperors exist to day in temples, tablets,
and in specially constructed roads.
In A.D. i860 and again in 1862 the T’ai P'iiig or Long
Haired Pebels came to Hangchow and in a feSr months reduced
nine-tenths of the city to ashes and utter ruin. It is stated
that fourfifthsof the inhabitants were massacred, or committed
suicide, while the remainder were driven from the city. The
canals were so full of the bodies, of those who had committed
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HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
suicide that those later wishing to end their existence could not
find sufficient water in which to drown themselves. Even the
West Lake was so filled with dead bodies that one could walk
out on it for a distance of a half li on them.
Since the establishment of the Republic Hangchow has
made notable civic progress. The Tartar City section is one
of the finest of its kind in all China. Not even in Shangliai
are to be found such broad fine streets. With the building of
the railway Hangchow has again become the objective of
thousands of travelers and it would seem as if the new hotels
could not be built fast enough to accommodate all who come.
The city abounds in pleasant little gardens and parks and
altogether has the air of the pleasure resort that it is.
A variety of industries are carried on in Hangchow. Like
Soochow it has been noted for centuries for its silk
manufacture which in recent years, through the iiiitrod action
of Japanese hand looms has had a marked revival. Among
the ancient industries which have survived is the manufacture
of "joss paper”, made from paper and tin foil. Even this
industry has become modernized for in Hangchow they m^ke
imitations of Mexican dollars rather than the former clumsy
representations of the silver sycce.
The most famous fan shop as well as the most famous
drug shop in China are to be found in this city. One wall of
the fan shop is covered with certificates of awards received at
foreign expositions. The drug shop is uncontaminated by
modern ideas and dispenses nothing but remedies approved by
the Chinese pharmacopeia. Attached to the establishment is
a large number of deer cages where deer are kept. Any deer
that are presented for sale are bought at once, so as to
encourage the hunters. The cost per deer is from two to four
hundred dollars. The shop claims that everything is used but
the honis^ a statement that may be skilful camouflage rather
than the exact truth. A modern electric light plant, two cotton
mills, six silk filatures, a soap factory, match factory, and
other institutions for the development of manual skill and trade
in their products, are among the enterprises which mark Hang-^
chow's participation in the industrial development of China.
HANGCHOW
121
The Needle Pagoda or “Prince Shus* Protecting Pagoda"
with the other two famous pagodas of Hangchow mentioned
below date back to the great building period of the Wu-Yueh
Kings, approximately 950 years ago. There are two accounts
concerning this one.
The first account is that it was originally built by one of
the Wu-Yueh Kings, and later that it was rebuilt by a priest
whose name was Yang Pao Shu. This priest was stricken
with blindness for the recovery of which he took a vow. On
his recovery he fulfilled his vow by the rebuilding of the
pagoda and later it was called after him Pao Shu Pagoda.
The other account is that the last of the Wu-Yueh
Kings, Ch’ieii Hung Shu, went to Pien Liang to give his
allegiance to one of the Sung Emperors. He feared he would
not be allowed to return and made a vow that if his hopes
were fulfilled he would build a pagoda as a taken of grati-
tude. Because he was cordially received by the Emperor and
permitted to return to Hangchow in peace he built this pagoda
which commemorated his protection while absent from home.
On the opposite or southern side of the Lake is the
Thunder Peak Pagoda, also called the White Snake PagoJa.
This pagoda was built by a concubine of one of die Wu-Yueh
Kings, also about 950 years ago. It was originally planned to
be seven stories high but for gcomantic reasons it was reduced
to five. Many of the the pagodas in China are built in order to
affect the feng shui, in other words to control weather condi-
tions. They are often built over the bones of some Buddhist
priest who was regarded as a saint. Very often there are
attached to them a monastery or temple and the pagoda itself
often contains many Buddhist images which are worshipped
by the pilgrims who come from the countryside.
This structure is also called the White Snake Pagoda
because of a legend built up about it. An enchantress called
the White Snake, who could change her form and ofteii
appeared as a beautiful woman, was buried under this pagoda
by the Goddess of Mercy to make atonement for her past and
to prepare her for the immortals. Her story fills a large
volume and is one of the most famous of Hangchow legends.
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handbook for china
It is also interesting to note that of the ancient structures
in Hangchow this is the only one built of red brick and built
long before red bricks were made in China^s kilns. About 370
years ago this part of the coast was infested by Japanese
pirates. They regarded this pagoda as a point of vantage for
spying upon them in their approach from the sea so they built
a great fire around it and for three days and nights it was
burned, until all the outside framework was destroyed and the
outer bricks were burned red. The nearer one goes to the
core of the pagoda the mofc is the original color of blue
grey in evidence.
The Six Harmonies Pagoda is located on the Ch’ien T’ang
River about a mile and a half from the terminal station
Zahkou. In China * the six harmonies'' means “everywhere"
that is the four points of the compass plus up and down. This
pagoda was built to harmonise the geomantic influence of
these six points. Another reason for its erection was to
stay the force of the Hangchow Bore which in ancient
times was more violent than it is to-day. It was built
in the times of the Wii-Yueh Kings by a priest whose
name meant “The Prolongation of Life.’' It has seven
stories on the outside and thirteen on the inside. It differs
from the other two pagodas mentioned above in that it has
an outside superstructure. The other two have only the
original core. This wood superstructure was built about the
20th year of the Emperor Kuang Hsii in iSgS at a cost of
$^75^000. It is one of the largest Pagodas in all China. ’ '
. Approximately 1660 years ago a Buddhist monk, Hui
Li by name, came from his home in India to this beautiful
valley where the Monastery of Ling-Yin or “Soul's Retreat."
is located. The scenery was so similar to his native
haunts that he named the hill to the left of the present
main road the “Peak that Flew Over (from India)". In
proof of his testimony he called forth from a cave some
distance from the real entrance, tw^o small white monkeys.
In the “Peak that Flew Over" are some of the oldest relics
of Hangchow, carved Buddhas that date back to as far as 1300
years ago. In front of this peak is also a small pagoda which
HANGCHOW
123
marks the tomb of Hui Li. Passing two pavilions one enters
“The Temple of the Kings of Heaven** in the center of which
is the Laughing Buddha who welcomes the incoming pilgrims
and who smiles upon all, whether good or evil. At his back
is Wei T’o who is Commander in Chief of the Four Heavenly
Kings. These latter, four in number, are in the four corners
of the hall, and beginning wdth the nearest figure on the right
going from East to South, North and West, form the temple
guardians. The first deity has a kind of mandolin, the purpose
of which is to rectify with music the hearts of men. The
second has a sword to destroy evil spirits. The third has an
umbrella to cover and to give protection and the fourth has a
snake wherewith to overcome all evil.
In the main hall of the monastery are immense, newly
built figures the center of which represents Shih Chia Mou
Nyi, the Indian Prince Gotama or Siddartha who was the
founder of Buddhism. The main figure at the beholder's
right is called Yao Shih, a physician who represents the
future ages. The one at the beholder*s left is A Mi T*o
w ho represents the ages of the past and the intermediate figure
on the left is A Nan, both of whom were disciples of Gotama.
On the sides of this main hall are the principal Lohan or
Disciples of Gotama. At the back of the main group will
probably be erected a huge image of the Goddess of Mercy.
To the left of the main hall is the * Hall of the Five
Hundred Lohan,’* also disciples of Gotama, among whom can
be seen the image of Marco Polo who visited Hangchow about
1280 A. D.
The main hall was built in igri at a cost of $200,000, Most
of the lumber used in its construction is of Oregon pine. The
erection of some of these huge pillars by primitive methods
is a wonderful example of Chinese engineering.
The Upper Monastery of India is farther up the same
valley in which the Ling Yin Monastery is located and
dates back to 980 years ago when a priest by the name
of Tao I saw here a gleaming log of wood and carved
from it a Goddess of Mercy. In the three main halls of this
monastery which is dedicated solely to the goddess, she
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HANDBOOK FOB CHINA
appears under different forms and names, the inner temple
being dedicated to her as a goddess who grants children.-
There are many imposing tablets in the main hall, testimonies
to her prayer-answering power.
The Monastery of Manifest Congratulations is near the
site of the former Ch’ien T’ang Gate and was built about A. D.
967, during the rule of the Wu-Yueh Kings. It is especially
noted for its “Altar of the Oath” which is in a hall at the
rear of the grounds. Here it is that men take their
vows as priests and have the markings on the crowns
of their heads burned in with incense. In the main hall the
principal figures are covered with the old fashioned official
umbrellas, a sight not common to-day.
The principal points of interest on the West lake are the
Imperial Island, called Kti-Shan (Solitary Hill) by the
Chinese, also the lake dykes or causeways. About A. D.
8ii a lock was built on the lake so as to store up water
and deliver it at will for the irrigation of the country to
the north-east.. In A.D. 1090 the great Hangchow poet Su
Tung P’o dug the lake deeper and built the causeway named
after him on the western margin. About A. D. ii3o and later
the lake and Imperial Island were made famous by the resi-
dence of the Southern Sung Emperors. In A.D. 1700 and later
the great Manchu Emperors K’ang Hsi and Ch’ien Lung built
their palaces on the Imperial Island. In addition to visiting
the various memorial halls on the island one ought to visit the
public park, originally the site of one of the palaces of Emperor
Ch’ien Lung, From the upper part of the park one can get a
fine view of the lake.
A smaller island is known as Island of the Three Pools
and the Moon’s Reflection. (San T’an Yin Yueh). In the
times of the Wu-Yueh Kings there was a pond here for
the “Preservation of Life.” At the farther end of the
Island, towards the Thunder Peak Pagoda, are to be seen
three small iron pagodas in the lake. When the poet Su
was commissioned to dig and to improve the lake it is said
that here there were three deep pits which were occupied by
'CViJ spirits. He caused tfiree pagodas to be built over these
CHEKIANG PROVINCE
125
pits and thus locked up the spirits so that boats could pass
without fear. The original pagodas are not to be seen to-day.
On the island is the “Bridge of Nine Windings.” There are
also some memorial halls and pavilions for the pleasure of
guests.
The “Pavilion of the Lake's Heart” is the name of a small
island where W'as once a monastery which later was destroyed
in the Ming Dynasty because of the ill-repute of its priests. The
small temple now on the island is dedicated to the worship of
tl^.e Dragon King.
If one has the time it is worth while to visit the Moham-
medan Mosque built in the T’ang Dynasty about A.D. 630.
'i his Mosque is one of the ancient landmarks of Hangchow.
Jf possible it would also repay the tourist to visit the City
Hill and from there get a view of the city, the bay and the
Ch'ien T'ang River, also the lake and the surrounding hills.
It is a view of picturesque beauty uncommon in China.
The Hangchow Union Evangelistic Committee has
published a handbook of the various forms of missionary
clfort in Hangchow, including the medical "work of the
Church Missionary Society, the Hangchow Christian College
(with a location and view finer than that of any other institution
ill the Orient,) the Union GiiTs School, the new Y. M. C. A.
building, the Wayland .Academy and the Mary Vaughan High
School. If one wishes to make a study of such institutions,
it would be wise to write to the General Secretary of the
Hangchow Union Evangelistic Committee, Da Fang Pah,
Hangchow.
Reference for further reading: **Hangchow Itineraries**
by Dr. Robert Pitch, a local resident. Those who make an
extended visit to Hangchow should certainly purchase a copy
this book which gives the routes of many pleasant
excursions around the city, and the hills.
Chekiang Province.— Chekiang is the smallest of the
c.ahteen Provinces of China proper, containing 36,670 square
with a population of about 17 millions. Though it is.
bnown in a general way to travelers, few realise how much-
scenic beauty it contains.
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handbook for china
Rice is the principal crop of the province, practically all
of the country being intersected with natural streams and
artificial waterways, used for irrigating the rice fields. The
silk industry is also one of the most important industries and
in Hangchow, the capital^ the finest guild hall of the city is the
hall of the Silk Guild. Many parts of the province are
covered with forests of mulberry trees so dense that one can
easily lose one’s way in them unless previously acquainted with
the general direction of the little paths that run through them.
Tea is largely grown in the hill districts and that culti-
vated round Hangchow is famous especially that which is
called Dragon Well” tea, a variety of green tea from the
‘'Dragon Well” valley which was served to the Imperial House-
hold previous to the founding of the Republic. Fishing is an
important industry on the rivers, and canals and along the
coast, and in the country around Ningpo may be found many
ice houses, virtually straw huts, where ice is stored to be used
for the preservation of fish by the fleets of boats when out
fishing at sea.
From an historical standpoint, few provinces are more
interesting than Chekiang, which was for many centuries the
southernmost part of China, all to the south of this province
being given over to barbarian tribes. Shun and Yii ar-
frequently mentioned in the annals of the province, in which
annals are also mentioned the visits of the first emperor of the
Chin Dynasty (B. C. 255-206) and K’aiig Hsi and Ch’ien Lung
of the Manchu line. Chang Tao-Iing, the “pope” of the Taoists,
was born A. D. 34 in thij> province. The province was overrun
by the Taiping rebels who took all of its principal cities and
laid most of its territories waste. ^
The principal cities are Hangchow the capital, Ningpo ami
Shaohing. The latter place is much older than Ningpo while
Hangchow- is comparatively modern.’ There is evidence tha.
Shaohing existed as far back as 2200 B.C. and that the grea-
Yu held court there after the flood. His tomb is situated in
the country not far from the city of Shaohing and constitute:
one of the famous sites of Chekiang.
By going to the port of Haimen one can go up to t\v
SBAOHING
127
T*icn-Tai monasteries which are famous throughout China,
They are built on mountains from three to four thousand feet
above the level of the sea and have long constituted a center for
higher Buddhism, sometimes visited by Japanese and Korean
priests. They date from the visit of an Indian monk who came
there over a thousand years ago, and on the hills there are many
legends concerning him, connected with the temple and the
natural features of the place. In connection with one of the
monasteries are io8 hermitages, running along the bank of a
lovely mountain stream, in the midst of thick woods. The
begging bowl of Tsu Tsai Ta Su the Indian founder is also
shown. There are fine virgin forests, beautiful streams and
many striking waterfalls.
The gorges of the Ch’ien T’ang River are also famous for
their beauty. To reach them it is necessary to go to the
Hangchow suburban station, Nan-shin-chiao, and from there to
go on the Ch’ien T’ang launch line, which takes one to T’ung Lu,
arriving there about five p.m. of the same day. From thence
one should take a native houseboat, especially designed for the
river current and go up the gorges for about eighty li to the
town of Yen-chow. In the gorges the current is crystal clear,
there are many sand bars, charming native boats, huge rafts of
pine and bamboo, and a constantly unfolding panorama of
loveliness in hills, water and sky, with swdft rapids, the channel
opening occasionally into open country but generally closing in
within narrow banks. If possible one should walk the entire
distance up the stream on the narrow tow path on the high
banks, so as to enjoy the scenery more and to view it to better
advantage.
The Hangchow Tidal Wave, or Bore, a natural wonder
of this province, is fully described on page 134.
Shaohing.— This important but little known city of
Chekiang is seventy miles west of Ningpo and 35 miles east of
Hangchow. The place may be reached from either Hangchow
or Ningpo by steam launch, sedan chair and native house boat.
Being off the usual routes of foreign travel it should not be
visited except by those who have special business there and
who are willing to make the necessary preparations. From
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HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Shanghai the Ningpo route though longer is more attractive a»
it takes one through some beautiful mountain scenery. Popula-
tion about 300, oco.
The records of Sliaohing go back to the beginning of
China’s history, for places in the district are intimately associat-
ed with the great Emperor Shun (2255-2205 B.C.) His mother
is said to have been a native of Yu Yao or Shang-yu. Shun’s
successor, the great Yu (2205-2197 B.C.) is buried in the hills
three miles east of the city. The fine system of water-ways
for which the fertile Shaohing plain is famous are attributed
to him. The city which is now known as Shaohing was built
in 480 B.C. The day after the completion of the city it w’as
discovered that a new hill had appeared during the night, which
was given the name “Flying Hill’’ as it was said originally to
have been an island off the coast of Shantung.
In 1862 the city suffered severely at the hands of the Tai-
pings, but it made a quick recovery. Today it is a busy market,
famous throLightout China for its silk and satin, spirit money,
wine and vessels of brass and pewter. The largest of the
Chinese bells on exhibition in the British Museum was cast
just outside a gate of the city. But the best known product of
the city is its men, A Chinese proverb says there are three
things which are found everywhere under heaven “bean curd»
sparrows and Shaohing men.” The Shaohing men are to be
found in every corner of the country and are famous as govern-
ment clerks. Another class have, in many places, dominated
the business of carrying chairs. Nearly all the chair coolies of
Hangchow are from Shaohing.
The city is an impertant center for missionary work which
dates from 186 r. Three socielives are represented there —
China Mission Society, China Inland Mission and American
Baptist Foreign Mission Society.
Pootoo, the Sacred Island. — Fifty miles east of Ningpo—
off the north eastern coast of Chekiang and accessible by
means of steamers either from Shanghai or Ningpo is the
sacred island of Pootoo one of the Chusan archipellago notable
for two reasons. Among foreigners living in Shanghai it is
known as the nearest bathing beach, to Chinese Buddhists it is-
POOTOO, TUK SACRED ISLAND
129
the most sacred place in East China. During the suthnier
occasional excursion steamers run direct from Shanghai to
Pootoo, enabling one to spend the week end there. The Sacred
Island does not maintain a hotel and those who go there except
by the excursion steamer will find lodging in one of the many
temples. As the island is purely Buddhist, no animal is sup-
posed to be killed on it and no animal food can be served.
However, there is a Chinese hospital and under the pleasing
fiction that all foreigners and other non-Buddhists are ill, eggs,
chickens and other forms of animal food are available. Those
who go to Pootoo to spend a holiday should remember that as
in other parts of China the hospitable temple means bare
walls and floors with, usually, an equally bare bed.
Pootoo is about four miles long and very irregular in
•shape, ranging in width from three miles to a few hundred
yards. It is known to the Chinese Buddhist as one of the four
sacred hills, a distinction which its geography justifies by the
possession of a hill nearly looo feethigh. Owing to the nearness
to the outlets of the Yangtze and Ch’ien T'ang rivers, the w ater
surrounding Pootoo is muddy. The bays on the eastern side are
bordered with beaches of yellow sand on which heavy breakers
roll. The landing place is a well built jetty on the extreme
southern part of the island. From here well-paved roads,
kept in good repair, lead to all the principal temples with
smaller roads branching off in all directions to the various
grottoes, shrines and smaller temples. The full name of
Pootoo is Putoloka, the name of the mythical sacred hill from
which Avalokitesvara, one of themc^t important of Buddhist
Gods, looks down on the world. With the spread of Buddhism
to Thibet, a second Putoloka came into existence at Lhasa and
Pootoo is the third. Because of the natural beauty of the
place it was famous in Chinese mythology long before the
advent of Buddhism and indeed it did not become a Buddhist
shrine until 847 A.D. when a Buddhist pilgrim from India
saw in the mists of a cave a vision of the goddess Kuanyin.
Other pilgrims visited the place and there were other miraculous
manifestations which have continued to the present time. The
powers of the goddess, however, were not strong enough to
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HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
prevent the depredations of Japanese pirates, who during the
Ming dynasty, destroyed most of the religious settlements and
in 1387 drove most of the monks to the mainland. For a century
Pootoo was nominally deserted and its history a blank. The
work of rebuilding started in the early part of the sixteenth
century but 150 years later, in 1665, Dutch pirates driven from
Formosa, plundered and burned the temples. In i683 the
monks returned and since that time they have lived in
comparative peace and prosperit3^
The island contains about one hundred temples and
monasteries and is the residence, normally of about one
thousand monks. Almost all of the temples and monasteries,
with their neighboring shrines and grottoes, are intimately
connected with the mirculous happenings of the island, or with
the visits of the many famous pilgrims who at various times
have visited the place.
The nineteenth day of the eleventh month of the old
Chinese calendar is regarded as the birthday of the Kuan-yin
and this event is celebrated on Pootoo with special stately
ceremonies. The number of regular monks is greatly increased
while thousands of laymen came from all parts of China.
Interesting as these ceremonies are, it is a time to be avoided
by the foreign traveler who does not want to undergo the
discomforts of crowded travel.
Most of the buildings on Pootoo date from the early part
of the eighteenth century when repairs and reconstruction
were undertaken by Yung Cheng. Of these structures the most
important are the “Southern*' and “Northern" monasteries,
located on the island as therr names imply. These two
establishments divide the honors in the ordination of monks,
performing the function in alternate years. Each monastery
is a triumph of Chinese arhitecture and each contains treasures
which have been accumulated during the centuries. The story
of ^ch is a story not only of Pootoo but of Buddhism itself
and of the history of China because every change in the ancient
Empire was reflected here and recorded in the local annals.
As might be supposed many fabulous stories are told— and
believed— -about Pootoo. It does not, like another island, boast
POOTOO, THE SACRED ISLAND
131
of the absence of snakes for they are numerous here but
according to the monks, all are harmless. In at least one
place the vision of the Lord Buddha may be seen by those
whose faith is strong enough. Among the many miraculous
happenings connected with the history of the island, none is
more interesting to foreigners than the story of the loss and
recovery of the great bell of the Northern Monastery. The
story is told by R. F. Johnston in his Buddhist China, a book,
which all students of Chinese Buddhism should read.
“This bell was cast by the founder of the monastery,
Ta-Chih, in the last quarter of the sixteenth century* The
Red-hairs carried it off as part of their loot, and succeeded
in safely conveying it to the gateway of their capital in ‘the
country of Europe.’ There, however, it fell down, and, owing
to its great weight, was left lying where it fell. Gradually
sinking into the soft ground, it at last disappeared altogether,
and was forgotten. But in 1723 a sound like the rolling of
thunder was suddenly heard coming from the ground; where-
upon amazed people of the neighbourhood dug up the ground
and discovered the bell.
“Somehow or other these events came to the knowledge of
the monastic authorities. The abbot of the monastery at the
time of the discovery of the bell was one Fa-tse, who happened
to be a native of Fukien, and was acquainted with many
merchants who were engaged in foreign trade. Through these
merchants negotiations were opened with ‘the country of
Europe ’ with a view to the recovery of the long lost bell. The
negotiations ended successfully, and in the year 1728 it was
brought back to China and landed at Namoa Island, near the
port of Swatow, in the Canton province. Difficulties as to its
reshipment were not overcome till 1733, which by a happy
coincidence was the year which witnessed the completion of a
restoration of the monastery under the auspices of K’ang-hsi's
*5011, the emperor Yung-cheng. To the great joy and worker
of the monks the bell was finally disembarked at Pootoo on ine
thirtieth day of the tenth month, at the very time when a
solemn service was being held in the great hall of the monas-
ery to celebrate his Majesty's birthday.
132
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
“There is no reason to doubt that the story as thus told in
the annals of the monastery is substantially true ; but it seems
improbable that the monks were correct in their belief that the
bell had actually been conveyed to Europe. The Chinese of
those days had very vague ideas of geography, and the monks
of Pootoo had evidently no very distinct knowledge of the
political divisions of the 'country of Europe/ Perhaps the
bell did not make quite so long a journey as they supposed. The
suggestion may be hazarded that its resting place during the
period from 1665 to 1732 was no European town, but Batavia,
a city of the Dutch East Indies, and though its old ramparts no
longer exist, it was a strong walled town in the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries. Possibly the Chinese story of the
fall of the bell at the gates of the city, and its subsequent
disappearance until its presence underground was revealed by
a sound like rolling thunder, is based on the historical fact
that in 1699 Batavia was visited by a destructive earthquake.
Thus the real course of events may have been something like
this: the bell was carried from Pootoo to Java in 1655; it was
suspended in a tower on the wall of the city of Batavia ; it re-
mained there till 1699, when the wall was destroyed by ap
earthquake; it lay buried under the ruins of the wall until
1723 ; and in that year, after it had disappeared from view for
almost a quarter of a century, the removal of the debris
restored it to the light of day, The inscription on the bell, we
may suppose, was read by Chinese residents in Java, who
learned thereby the name of the monastery to which it
originally belonged. Through them the story may easily have
come to the ears of the Chinese merchants of Fukien, who at
that time controlled a large proportion of China's foreign trade.
“The joy of the monks at the return of their founder’s bell
was tempered by their discovery of the melancholy fact that it
was no longer in a fit condition to serve its proper purpose.
It ||^d been cracked and injured to such an extent that before
the hearts of monks and pilgrims could again be thrilled by its
mellow tones it had to be put through the process of recasting.
Their work was not carried out for nearly a hundred years. It
hung silently in its tower till 1825, when a wealthy pilgrim
MOKAKSHAN
133
named Hsu having interested himself in its history, undertook
to defray the cost of having it recast. It is the bell of Ta-
chih, originally cast before the year 1592, but re-cast in or
shortly after the year 1825 by the pilgrim Hsu, that hangs
today in the bell-tower of the Northern Monastery.'*
The highest point on the island is near the Northern
Monastery and is reached by a pathway from that establish-
ment. From the summit there is a magnificent view of the
Chusan archipellago.
Only recently have foreigners come to appreciate the
natural beauties of this place, one of the prettiest in the
country, and its many advantages as a place for an outing. It
is always possible to secure rooms in one of the temples or
monasteries, but bedding, food supplies, and cooking utensils
should be taken on the trip. One should be careful not to
visit the place when the pilgrimages are at their height.
Throughout China the anniversary of the ‘‘goddess cross-
ing the sea" is celebrated at Buddhist temples on the 19th of
the 6th moon, commemorating the crossing of the image of
Kwanyin to Pootoo with the Monk Agaku.
References: — The author is greatly indebted to R. F.
Johnston*s ** Buddhist China** for the information about
Pootoo contained in these paragraphs. One of the first
foreigners to visit the island was Charles Gutslaff xvho landed
there in 183^ and described it in his'* Journal of three Vogagesf*
The place is mentioned in books by many travelers but none
has so complete a description as that co"itqjned in Mr.
Johnston's book.
Mokanshan. — About 30 miles to the north of Hangchow is
Mokanshan, a summer resort, frequented by foreigners. The
resort is situated on a hill 2000 feet high, covered by a bamboo
forest which provides many pleasant shaded roads. The
houses are mostly owned by foreign missionaries of Chekiang
province and of Shanghai. Mokanshan can be reached fi^i
Shanghai in ten hours by rail, motor boat, and mountain chairs.
The Shanghai-Hangchow Railway undertakes all arrange-
liients or the traveler can secure transportation through Cook's.
Advance reservations at the hotel should be made.
134
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
The Hangchow Bore. — The Hangcho’»v Bay derives its
name from the fact that the city of Hangchow lies practically
at the end of an extensive gulf and on the mouth of a river,,
the Ch'ien Tang, which has a drainage area of 12,000 square
miles. The port and suburb of Hangchow is Zahlcou lying
directly on the shores of the Ch’ien T’ang.
The bay has become known to navigators and the general
public more because of its inaccesibility to power crafts than
from the standpoint of a port. Its inaccessibility is due to a
tidal phenomenon known in different countries as bore, eager,
mascaret, pocaraca, etc. which usually takes place in a bay
or estuary which has extensive mud flats, dry at low water
and where the tide frequently rises with such rapidity as to
cause the wave to break in the form of a vertical wall of water.
The bore of the Ch’ien Tang is not a tidal wave. There are
no regular undulations of the surface. Particles of wood
have been seen borne along on or immediately behind the crest
of the bore — retaining their relative position with respect to
the crest of the bore for long distances.
The ocean tide, breaking as it does at spring tide into a
vertical wall of water running up the river, is the result of
several influences acting simultaneously and may be described
as follows. The conformation of the Bay may be likened to an
enormous funnel. At its entrance it is approximately 60 miles
wide, narrowing down to a width of nine miles at Kanpu, 70
miles inland, a contraction of 51 miles in 70 miles. At Zahkow 30
miles further inland it has a width of two miles. The entrance
is traversed by a chain of islands, the Chusaii Archipelago,
which occupy about sixty per cent of the wddth; a natural
promontory projects into the bay from the northern shore at
Kanpu, and another promontory, probably the result of silting
and reclaiming, projects from the southern shore opposite
Hsiao Hsi San.
4|(rhe depths at the entrance of the bay and as far as Kanpu
are fairly uniform ranging from four to five fathoms
Occasional deep holes appear along the Chapu bay. Near
Kanpu the sand bar practically extends across the bay suddenly
reducing the depth in the channel to one or two feet and
THK HANGCHOW BOIIE
133
from here up the river to Zahkou the depths never exceed two
feet at lowest low water.
The ocean tide has a rise varying from 6 to i6 feet
and enters the bay through the narrow passes between the
islands. This tide advances rapidly into the bay, causing a
piling up of the waters in the vicinity of Kanpu, the rise
here in the spring being 28 to 32 feet. The rise during
the first and second hour of Hood at Kanpu is twelve to
fourteen feet.
During this rapid rise at Kanpu the water is rapidly fall-
ing above Kanpu ; two hours before the wave breaks into a
bore there is a difference of level of nine to twelve feet
between Chapu and Kanpu — and a similar difference between
Haining and Kanpu, the slope of the water surface being
towards Kanpu from both directions. The rise at Kanpu is
very rapid and when it is low water at Haining, the water
has risen so that the slope from Kanpu is reversed and the
difference betweer Kanpu and Haining is 12 feet; when this
condition becomes critical the wave breaks and runs up the
river in the form of a bore.
The sand bars and the natural channel of the river cause
the currents to divide near Kanpu ; one current is deflected
towards the southern shore and the other runs up the channel.
The current running towards the southern shore is again de-
flected to the northern shore and comes against the sea wall
at right angles to the current coming up the channel. These
meet about 13 miles below Haining Pagoda and run up the
river as one wave. The bore passes Plaining practically as the
moon crosses the meridian.
The height and force of the wave depend primarily upon
the tide. As a general rule the bore is highest at the equinoxes
and when it is new or full moon, with the moon in perigee. The
height however is greatly affected by the wind, the fresh water
discharge of the Ch’ien T'ang and the position of^he
£iand bars opposite Kanpu. The position of the bars change with
every tide but seem to be shifted back and forth across the
river according to the season. When the bars are forming along
ihe northern shores or are reduced by the river’s flow, the bore
136
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
is less. At low river they are built up again and the bore is
again higher.
At Haining the roar of the rising water may be heard
from 4S inir.utcs to an hour before the bore arrives at the
Pagoda. It first appears as a long white streak across the
horizon, alternately rising and falling. Shortly after the bore
arrives in sight, junks riding in on the after rush may be seen.
The front seems to grow higher and higher. The wave from
the south-east superimposes itself on the wave from the east
about ten miles below Haining, reaching its maximum height
about at the Pagoda ; from here it begins to fall away.
The front advances at about 15 knots at spring tide and
from eight to ten knots at neaps. After the vertical front has
passed the water rises rapidly — eight to ten feet in one hour —
and the tidal stream runs from four to six knots; the duration
of the rising tide is about three hours and of the falling
nine hours.
During the first two hours of falling water the tidal stream
runs about four to six knots, and the water falls about four
feet in the first hour, while during the last two hours of
falling water the change in level is hardly perceptible.
Haining is an important market for charcoal which comes
down the Ch’ien T’ang. Junk harbours or shelters have been
constructed to protect the junks from the force of the bore.
These junk shelters are elliptical buttresses about 1000 feet
apart, built out some 30 to 40 feet from the sea wall. Between
the buttresses junk shelves from six to eight feet high and
extending along and out from the sea wall about 20 feet have
been built. The junkman comes alongside at high water, lashes
his strong hawsers on shore and when the tide goes out,
the junk is resting on the shelf. The vertical face of the
bore seldom reaches the top of the shelf for the buttress has
brollpn the force of the wave— and he rides up clear again on
the after rush.
The wall at Haining is about 26 feet high; the bore and
after tide seldom reaches the top of the sea wall. However
an earthen dyke four to six feet high, and eight to ten feet
NINGPO
137
behind the sea wall provides additional protection iu case of
higher tides.
Legends relating to the bore indicate that this phenomenon
was known in the early part of the sth century B.C. and that
embankments were built outside Hangchow in looo A.D.
Various mythical accounts of the cause of the bore arc
related by the Chinese; the most generally told myth is that a
General being unusually successful against the enemies of the
emperor and thereby having become very popular with his
people, excited the jealousy of bis sovereign who caused him
to be assassinated and thrown into the Ch'ien T’ang, and
his troubled spirit sought ever after to avenge its wrath by
flooding the country. Many pagodas, temples and smaller
places of worship have been erected along the sea wall and
thousands proceed here yearly to offer sacrifices.
The best place to observe the bore is at Haining — a small
market town about 40 miles from Hangchow. Haining may
be reached by rail from Shanghai or Hangchow. Leaving the
railroad at Changan, small native boats or chairs may be
obtained, and one arrives at Haining Pagoda in about 2 hours.
Changan and Haining arc both accessible by houseboat from
Shanghai.
The usual supposition that the bore only occurs at the
equinoxes is wrong. The Chinese have made it a custom to go
at this season, but the bore may be seen at any time; probably
the best is at new or full moon.
Ningpo. — Is 150 miles south of Shanghai, connected with
that port by daily steamer sdffvice. Fare $10. Population
about 260,000 ; with the suburbs, another 150,000. Opened as
a treaty port 1842, but has no extensive foreign settlement.
British and French post offices in addition to Chinese.
With the history of Ningpo is associated the earliest
attempts of Europeans to establish themselves in China, for
the Portuguese traders settled here in 1522 and soon establUhed
a prosperous colony, which numbered 1200 twenty years later.
At that time trouble arose between the Portuguese and the'
Chinese, when the settlers, refusing to obey the laws of China,
were ordered to be expelled. The colony was attacked by
138
HANDBOOK JOR CHINA
Chinese troops and 800 Portuguese massacred. In the latter
part of the I7lh century, the East India Company established a
post near Ningpo on the island of Chusan, but trade conditions
were not good and the place was abandoned. Ningpo was one
of the first five ports thrown open to foreigners and though
the center of a large foreign trade at one time, has since
declined in importance.
Ningpo was a city of great antiquity at the time these
European adventurers came. The present city, 1200 years old,
was built near the site of a much older city which was men-
tioned in the time of Yii (B.C.220S). The great Emperor
Shun, the Cincinnatus of China, is said to have tilled his fields
near Yuyao, a small city about 40 miles west of Ningpo.
Near Shaohing stands the tomb of the Great Yii, who sub-
dued the deluge four thousand years ago.
The city is situated 15 miles from the sea on the Yung
River whose branches water the fertile Ningpo plain. A good
view of Ningpo’s magnificent surroundings can be secured
from the top of the Heaven-Invested Pagoda, built in 696, and
one of the oldest in China. The hills which form the
easternmost portion of the mountain range of which the
Himalayas are a part enclose the plain in a great natural
amphitheater in a grand sweep of more than 100 miles. The
walls of the city are five miles in circumference, 25 feet high and
partly enclosed by a moat. Plans are fully matured for the
destruction of this wall and its disappearance, together with
the filling in of the intramural canals should add perceptibly
to the health of the inhabitants. Several of the main streets
are spanned by magnificent arches, erected in memory of the
many Ningpo men who have played important parts in China’s
history.
An interesting legend concerning the river is told by
Archdeacon Moule, who has written so interestingly of Nifigpb.
In ancient times a dragon used periodically to emerge from
the river and unless appeased by the yearly offering of a boy
and girl would ravage the community. In the year 618 a
mandarin was on his way to Ningpo to assume office, coming
at a time when the annual sacrifice was made. As he traveled
NIKGPO
139
aross the plain he saw two country people, man and wife, with
a little boy and girl being taken for the sacrifice. The
magistrate's heart was stirred at hearing their story and on
arriving at the spot where the dragon was due to appear, he
mounted a white horse and armed with a sword made of rushes
plunged into the water. In a short time there v/as a great
commotion in the river and soon the surface was dyed with
the blood of the dragon and champion. Neither was seen
again. At the same moment a pool welled up in the city, over
which a temple has been built in memory of the mandarin and
each May every house in Ningpo has a cross of reeds over its
door in commemoration of the anniversary.
Ningpo is the commercial metropolis of Chekiang province
and although the foreign trade is not now what it was forty
years ago, owing to the opening of other ports, the Chinese
trade shows a steady increase. A great deal of household
furniture is made there, and it is a center for the manufacture
of “joss paper." Ningpo is second only to Foochow in the
production of lacquer, and is famous for carved work in white
wood.
Shallow draft steamers are able to navigate the mouth of
the rivei* and anchor at Ningpo, maintaining a daily service
with Shanghai. Steam launches ply farther up the river,
enabling the traveler to visit the interior. A railway connects
the port with Pah-Kwun, fifty miles distant and will eventually
connect with the railway to Shanghai.
Tlie approach to the port is through the islands of the
Chusari archipelago, and the scenery which they form has been
often likened to that of the most beautiful parts of the Inland
Sea of Japan. The banks of the river, from its mouth to the
cjty are lined with straw huts, but as the traveller is preparing
to commiserate the people on the wretchedness of their dwell-
ing, he learns that these huts are all of them ice-houses. Ningpo
is the greatest fishing-port and the greatest fish market in the
entire land; to this fact the existence of the ice-houses i?
due; and the business man or missionary who passes the
summer in the fervent heat there, can thank the fishes in the
sea that he is able to eat ice cream every day if he wishes, as
140
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
not many dwellers in Chinese outports are able to do. With
the coming of the cuttle- liih season each spring, great fleets
of boats move down the river to the sea, and for weeks
afterwards the pervasive odor of drying cuttle-lish is wafted
on nearly every breeze that blows over the town.
Except for the influence of the trade in fish, the streets do
not show much outward difference from those of any of the large
towns in the Wu-speaking districts. The average visitor thinks
that when he has seen one of them, he has seen them all. But
there are none the less many things of interest to him who
will take the trouble to search them out.
The river is spanned by two bridges made of big barges
lashed together, which rise and fall with the tides. Life on
the bridges from month to month is almost that of a little
world in itself. There are of course hucksters and fortune-
tellers and beggars of every description. There is the high-
soulcd brother who will help you to acquire merit by selling
you a snake which you may release into the water (they arc
all harmless water-snakes). Just across the newer of the
bridges is a pyramidal structure of stone some twenty or
more feet high, which on examination proves to be a
monument erected to the memory of the sailors and soldiers,
French and British, who perished at Ningpo in the troubles of
the Taiping rebellion. Half a mile up the river is the little
Catholic cemeter)’’, where several French officers, also victims
of those stirring times, are buried. Inside the city is a
residence of the Church Missionary Society where they
preserve with care a hole in tjie wall, and the cannon-ball
which made it, the result of fire from a British gunboat at the
same period.
The pagoda has been already spoken of. It is in the care
of the priests of a monastery next door. No census of
the temples of Ningpo has yet been made in English but the
casual passer-by soon comes to the conclusion that Ningpo is
much what St. Paul said Athens was, —very religious. There
are of course the regular temples to the city deities. There is
the Foochovv guild temple, with its remarkable carved stone
pillars. There is a fine old Confucian temple, which with its
KlM'.rO
141
attendant buildings makes a group iliat can only be compared to
foreign college building groups; and the existence of a library
and of a residence for an Educational Commissioner makes
the comparison not wholly inapt. The temple itself, however,
is used only for the semi-annual sacrifices. Ningpo is the seat
of a vigorous Buddhist movement, for which the neighboring
monasteries of Pooloo, the sacred island, and one of the five
great Buddhist centers in China, is largely rcsponsrble. The
Buddhist religion is decadent in many quarters of China but
not here. The Buddhists support an excellent orphanage and
have begun to publish a bi-weekly paper, called “The New
Buddhism,” written in popular style and with contributions
from returned students. The Confucianists arc not so much
in evit>ence, but the “Society for Mutual Good Works” which
professes to be elected and which claims a large membership
here, is really a form of Confucianism.
The most interesting street for the stranger to visit is the
main shopping street which extends from the fiast gate for tWo
miles to the opposite West gate. This magnificent thoroughfare
is a little difficult to find, for the entrance is narrow and is
approached through shops crowded on the valuable land just
outside the gate. A few years since the first half mile of the
street was a fine example of the old style Chinese street of the
better sort, with splendid old signs whose calligraphy was
much admired by scholars. But one fire after another has
“occurred”; incidentally a fire is a common thing in the city,
and the summer night that does not furnish a glare on thcv
horizon indicates a wet season. Fire walls at intervals of
about two hundred yards through the business portion of the
city confine the fires, but there have been enough of them to
change the character of that part entirely, and now the visitor
will walk past Anglo-Chincse architectural abominations for
a long distance, resplendent in gilt and black, and in red
brick, and lit with sun-bursts of electric lights, till he will
wonder what sort of creature conceived this style of renais*
sance building. Fortunately the goods within are the same,
and should he wish to buy silks and satins, or furs, or linen,
or pearls or jade, or what you will, here is the chance. The
142
HANDBOOK FOR CHWA
furniture which has been alluded to is most of it made in a
quarter not far away, which is decidedly worth a visit. The
inlaid bone work is a speciality of the port, not made
elsewhere, and the work in it on a Chinese bedstead the size of
a whole room will make the visitor gasp, when he realizes the
amount of artistic labor involved.
The visitor interested in mission work will find much to
observe. The Roman Catholics have a large work in three
widely separated compounds. Their cathedral is on the Bund,
and its clock-tower is a land-mark for miles around. Only
the pagoda overtops it. There are six Protestant missions
at work.
Mention was made earlier of some of the ancient worthies
who come from Ningpo and its neighborhood. To that number
should be added the philosopher Wang Yang-ming called the
Chinese pragmatist who was born in the city of Yuyao and
has his temple there still; to his writings many Japanese
ascribe the origin of the spirit which has made their nation a
first-class power. The Chinese worship him as a divinity but
they have not yet absorbed his spirit Many of the great
merchants of Shanghai are Ningpo men.
The long-time resident of Ningpo comes to learn that the
people are not very progressive, in spite of the fact that they
have burned out and rebuilt the business portion of their city,
and have an electric-lighting system, and a telephone system.
But in general the town is unfriendly to new ideas. The
proximity of Shanghai has drained the town of just the class
that is forward-looking, for Shanghai is filled with Ningpo
men. The slower and more cautious element is left at home;
hence the orthodox conservatism of the old city; progress
there undoubtedly is; and when the railroad is completed to
Hangchow, progress will be faster; but on the whole one
can more easily find old China here than in almost any open
port in the land.
Shanghai-Nanking Railway. — This road runs through
one of the most thickly populated sections of China, connect-
ing Shanghai and Nanking, with an extension from Shanghai
to Woosung. The length of the Shanghai-Nanking line is
SHANGHAI* NANKING RAILWAY.
Drawn for Crow*s
GCOCliOW
143
193 miles. With the branch to Woosuug the total mileage is
203. Construction of this road was begun in 1904 and the
work was completed four years later at a total cost of Tls.
18,718,000. The funds for construction were secured from a
British loan. At Nanking the road connects, by means of a
river ferry, with the southern terminus of the Tientsin- Pukow
line, making possible a rail trip from Shanghai to Peking, or
from Shanghai to Paris. The road makes it possible for the
visitor with only a short time in Shanghai to see some of the
most interesting places in China at small cost. Although the
night express is comfortable, travelers should make the trip
between Shanghai and Nanking by day because of the very
interesting country traversed. It is one of the most fertile
and intensely cultivated sections of China and throughout the
growing season nearly every square foot of the countryside
is planted. The trip between Shanghai and Nanking may be
made in seven hours by express.
V
Important points on the line are:
-
Miles from
Miles from
Shanghai
Nanking
0 Shanghai (see page 103)
.... 193
32 Kunshan, a seaport 2000 years ago —
161
53 Soochow (see page 143)
80 Wusih (see page 149)
.... II3
150 Chinkiang (see page 151)
.... 43
193 Nanking (see page 153)
.... 0
Soochow is 53 miles from Shanghai, on the Shanghai-
Nanking Railway. Fare $2.80. Can also be reached by
houseboat from Shanghai or Hangchow. A treaty port
opened in 1896. Population over 500,000. Several com-
fortable hotels for foreigners are maintained here under
Chinese management. Chinese and Japanese post offices.
Carriages and rieshas are to be had at the station, but neither
can be used in the walled city because of the narrow streets
and the many arched bridges. Donkeys are offered at $i a
day or 20 cents an hour. The new rattan chairs are every-
where available now and may be had for a small sum for
each section of the road traveled. They afford a very com-
fortable and pleasant way to get about.
144
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
The many canals which intersect the rich and beautiful
city of Soochow have given it the name of “The Venice of
the Far East/’ while the every high standing which its scholars
have always enjoyed has made it the Athens of China. It is
one of the oldest and most famous cities of China and the
admiration of the Chinese for the place is expressed in the
familiar quotation “Heaven above, and below Hangchow and
Soochow.” The history of the city covers more than 2000
years. In about 525 B. C. only 250 years after Rome was
founded, Prince Ho Lu, of the Kingdom of Wu, ordered his
prime minister to build a city for him to serve as his capital.
The instructions were to build ‘‘a large and influential city
where his subjects could dwell in time of danger and where
his government stores could be protected from the enemies
that constantly menaced his kingdom.” The official decided
on ambitious plans. The city was to have eight water gates,
like heaven, and be square like the earth. The total length
of the outer walls aggregated 47 li, about 15 miles. Inside
were two inner enclosures, the larger one enclosing the For-
bidden City, for the palaces and yamens, and the smaller
enclosure for the personal use of the prime minister.
The city became the capital of the kingdom and grew
in importance, but about 591 A. D. a new city was built
for the reason that the old one was full of robbers, rebels and
thieves, whose organization was so strong that it was impossi-
ble to drive them out. The walls of the new city were of
wood, and the people lived within these insecure enclosures
•only a short time, moving back to the old city during the
first years of the Tang reign. In 876, a band of robbers
captured the city and again a new enclosure was built for the
protection of the people. The new city took a rough w^edge
shape. Within the walls were many canals and 500 streets.
The walls thus constructed were allowed to fall into disrepair
and were restored several times.
In the 14th century, following the fall of the Mongol
dynasty and while the Mings were struggling to subdue the
whole country, Chang Shin Cheng attempted to re-establish
tbc Kingdom of Wu, with himself as Emperor and Soochow
SOOCHOW
145
as the capital. The imperial troops made short work of the
city walls and the ambitions rebel was captured and executed,
along with his troops. The most recent restoration of the
city walls was in 1662, under the renowned Mancha Em-
peror, Kang Hsi. A ^ranchu garrison was quartered here
and the town refortitied. Battlements were added, rising to
a height of 6 feet above the wall, which is 12 miles in circum-
ference, 28 feet in height and 18 feet thick.
The walls as they stand today have been frequently re-
^raired but are much the same as in 1662. The walled city
is aboyt 4 miles long from north to south and about 3 miles
broad.'" A walk along the broad wcll-pavcd top of the wall is
dcligi|tful, far away from the noise and crowds below and yet
givilij an excellent view of the whole city. A moat £0 to
loo/y^ds wide surrounds the city and is used as a canal,
coniijcting with the narrower intersecting canals of the city.
' the water gate, toll is collected by a bag at the end
of a long pole, such cathedrals use. There is of course
some ^elay here, a^id it gives opportunity to oi)serve the
cormS'rant fishing boats. The birds are cciuipped by nature
with JJ^rge pouch to deposit their catch in, and by art with
• aVylg r^und the m^k to prevent its slipping — accidentally —
any- further. They sit in double rows round the boat till the
manager pushes tl/em into the water with a bamboo; when
'oje ftfids a fish, hd pecks out the eye and pouches the crea-
ture ;Mf it be too farge, he invites other cormorants and they
together will lift^but any fish not exceeding eleven pounds."*
Approaching Soochow from any direction, tall pagodas
-first come into view. There arc five of them inside the city
and three crown the near-by hills. The South Gate Pagoda
is one of the many for which claims of the greatest antiquity
are made, the date of construction of the original btn’ng about
248 A. D. The Great Pago Ja, seen near the city wall from
the railway station, is one of the most famous in China. It
* “The Eighteen Capitals of China” by William Ed^far Gci). A
Soochow coi rcspoiu^ent says: “There is no repiilar toll for beats.
Sometimes the "atchccpcrs do squeeze on .cargo* I liavc never known
it on passengers.”
146
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
is said to have been built in 1131 A. D, The Taipings, who
did not harm the pagoda, destroyed the temple which formerly
stood in front of it, so that it is possible now to get a complete
view of the* famous structure. It consists of nine stories,
250 feet high and is a marvel of proportion. Sixty
feet in diameter at the base, it is 45 feet at the top, each
story being proportionately shorter, each balcony nar-
rower, each door and window smaller. The whole is of
massive construction and carries well its seven hundred years.
From the upper stories an excellent view of the beautiful
surrounding country can be obtained. In the vicinity are
many small hills and lakes, the latter connected with each
other by innumerable small canals. To the east is a level^plain
broken only ty a number of groves planted about small villages.
To the west lies the Great Lake or Ta Hu, celebrajed by
many Chinese poets for the beauty of its surroundings^, and
a famous resort for Shanghai houseboat parties. It is 40
by 50 miles in extent, dotted by many small islands which con-
tain interesting temples and monasteries; Five million people
live within the radius covered by the eye from the top bal-
conies of the pagoda. From few other places can oi^e view
the habitations of so many of his fellow il|en. The old jy^est
who opens the entrance to the pagoda for visitors expects
a small tip, and the boy who carries a light through the one
dark passage does so in the hope of receiving a few coppers.
The Tiger Hill Pagoda, the “leaning tower” of Soochow,
was first built in 601 A. D., burned down in ^428 and the pre-
sent structure was built ten years later. The. Twin Pagodas,
known also as the Two Pen Pagodas, stand near the Exami-
nation Halls, and to their good influence is attributed much of
the fame which has come to Soochow through her scholars.
Near these is the Ink Pagoda. “A scholar built the Two Pen
Pagodas to attract the good luck required to insure good
scholarship to the town; but as most of the candidates kept
on failing afterwards, he consulted the gcomancers, and they
showed how absurd it was to provide two pens but no ink.
The omission rectified, the candidates passed.” Soochow
University, an American institution, is located near the Ink
SOOCHOW
147
pagoda. Soochow, through many centuries, has sent more
honors men to the great Metropolitan Examinations at Peking
than can be claimed by any other city and it rivals Hangchow
in the space it occupies in the literature of China. The
History of Soochow, a compilation begun looo years ago by
one of the city's most famous men, has grown to 150 volumes,
through the contributions of generations of scholars.
The City Temple is one of the show places of Soochow,
though infested by beggars, who annoy the foreign visitor.
Within its enclosure are fourteen separate temples, containing
More than two hundred principal images. Within the city
iv'alls there arc several hundred temples, nunneries and
monasteries. There is one large Confucian temple at which
the provincial officials formerly worshiped and one smaller
one where the district magistrate worshiped before going
over to the large one. Near the large temple, to the east and
south, are a normal school, a college, a middle school and an
industrial school, all* run and financed by the government.
The governor's yamen is just to the north of the temple and
to the west are three other interesting places, the Provincial
Mint, the Horticultural Garden and the Beamless Temple.
This famous building is of two stories built about 1572 A. D.
and without any timber at all. There is no wood in any
part cf the building, the roof being supported by arches made
of specially constructed brick. The robf is arched and
covered with beautiful colored tiles.
The Temple of Scrolls is full of scrolls of all kinds and a
walk through it gives one some idea of the various tendencies
of Chinese art to run to commercialism. It is said that only
countrymen go there to buy scrolls, as the best artists do their
work upon order or exhibit it in private shops. On the east
side of this large temple there is a smaller one that has very
interesting representations of the lower regions with its varied
tortures and also of saints seated upon clouds in heaven.
These are in different wings of the temple.
To the south of the customs house (which is at the oppo*
site end of the horse road from the railway station and the
southeast corner of the city) is a magnificent bridge called the
US
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
Precious Girdle Bridge. It consists of 53 arches and is built
entirely of granite. This and many other attractive bridges
in the vicinity are well worth the time taken to see them.
Tile bridges of Soochow are famous all over China and the
average Cliincse finds it difficult to believe that anyone can
teach the Soochow people anything about bridge building.
The gardens of Soochow could afford an interesting
day’s outing in themselves. There are several inside the
city, but the two largest are the Loen Yoen and the Si Yoen
(yocn means garden). One of these was formerly owned by
a high Manchu official. The property was siezed by the
Republican government. They are both located outside of the
Northwest gate (Tsaung Muiig) of the city and may be
reached by carriage from the railway station. A small
entrance fee is charged and one may wander at leisure through
the many walks and rockeries.
To the west of the city are a number of hills a few hours
journey by boat from the binsy thoroughfares of the city.
There one may tramp through many shaded spots rich in
historic lore. An excellent little booklet, “The Hills About
Soochow,’’* by Dr. J. B. Fearn, gives interesting information
about the hills. They afford good climbs and excellent views.
The fields of yellow rape and patches of purple clover in the
early spring arc well worth seeing.
Soochow has regained much of what it lost because of
the Taiping rebellion and is again the rich and cultured city
of old, with a very large class of idle rich. In addition to its
fame as the birthplace of many scholars, Soochow is also
wid(jly known in China as the birthplace of the most famous
sing-song girls. Soochow women are noted for their beauty
and the pleasing softness of their dialect and fashionable
women from other parts of China ape the Soochow dialect.
The place has not held its own, commercially, with other cities
of the neighborhood, but rcniaius the silk metropolis of the
Orient, maintaining 7000 looms for the production of brocades.
“The silken goods wffiich form the staple export are the
•Sol l by the North China Daily News, Shanghai.
WUSIH
149
glory of the place, and the Imperial household formerly got
its chief supplies hence. It is strange to see the primitive
surroundings, a little but with an earthen floor in which they
are produced, with their exquisite designs and perfect work-
manship. In these uncleanly surroundings a basin of water
stands for the weaver to keep his hands unsoilcd. He can
make four or five feet daily, a yard wide, thus earning 300
or 375 cash and producing material w'orth nearly two shillings
a foot. It is the best paid occupation in the city.’'
The foreign settlement of Soochow has been built up
outside the city wall.<?, near the Customs house, and very little
has been done in developing it. However the streets arc wide,
paved, and well cared for.
To the west lies the Great Lake, one of the most beautful
places in China. I has been the scene of outings by residents
of Soochow for the past 2000 years and should be included
in any houseboat trip. It can be made a part of the itinerary
from Shanghai by houseboat, or local houseboats may be hired
in Soochow. This is only one of the many lakes about the
city.
Five American missions are represented in Soochow, z'is:
Southern Methodist, Northern Presbyterian, Southern Presby-
terian, Southern Baptist and Protestant Ivpiscopal. Probably
the most important missionary enterprise is Soochow Univer-
sity, maintained by the Southern Methodists. This mission
also has a large girls’ school. The university is a thriving
institution with a large foreign faculty and over 350 students.
There are a number of mission hospitals, schools, etc. and a
large Roman Catholic mission.
Wusih. — To the northwest of Soochow on the Shanghai-
Nanking Railway is Wusih, a progressive walled city with
a population of about 300,000. Formerly a place of small
importance, Wusih is growing rapidly now and next to
Shanghai is the most important industrial city in the province.
It has supplanted Soochow as a transfer point for goods
destined for Shanghai and with the introduction of modern
methods is also supplanting that city as a silk center.
F.vidence of the city’s industrial importance is ofTered those
150
HANDBOOK F02 CHINA
who do not stop to visit the place for many tail factory
chimneys may be seen from the train.
The industrial development has been carried out by Chinese
themselves, but with fereign machinery and a certain amount
of expert foreign assistance. Among the enterprises of
Wusih are: fourteen modern steam filatures, eleven modern
rice mills, five large flour mills, three cotton mills, two
cotton seed and bean oil mills. A great many other enterprises
of this nature are either under construction or arc
being promoted. The surrounding country is famous for the
production of silk and Wusih is one of the most important
centers for the marketing of cocoons.
Though the building of the railway has made great
changes in the transportation of goods, Wusih remains a very
important boat town and most of the boatmen between
Shanghai and Na::king call it their home. The city is
intersected by many canals, which are wide and filled with
clear water, in contrast to the muddy streams seen elsewhere.
In common with many other Chinese cities it is sometimes
kiiown as “The Venice of China.” The canals cover 150 miles
in the city and surrounding vicinity.
The people of Wusih are very progressive and there are
many evidences of municipal enterprises. A fine paved road
leads from the station to the city gate and many good riesha
roads have been built into the factory districts. One of the
remarkable institutions of the place is a public library of
I/O, coo volumes, all of which have been collected since the
Revolution.
An interesting and curious industry of the district is the
manufacture of clay images, which are well-modeled and
artistically decorated. The images are small and represent
everything under the sun from the human figure to beasts and
birds. They are to be found in Chinese homes all over the
land.
An hour distant by boat is the Weidzien spring, with a hill
near by on which are located temples, a monastery and a great
number of ancestral halls. All are kept in good repair, are
clean and surrounded by fine gardens and courts. From this
ClIlNKlANG
151
place there is a good view of the Great Lake. The approach
to the spring is through a canal lined by fine trees. On the
left is to be seen a regular mound 6o to 70 feet high, surmount-
ed by a ruined, ivy-covered pagoda.
Chinkiang. — Located 112 miles from Shanghai, Chin-
kiang is at the intersection of the Yangtsze and the Grand
Canal, and is one of the most important stations on the
Shanghai-Nanking Railway. Fare from Shanghai $6.40.
Chinese and Japanese post-offices. The town is about 20CO
years old and has borne its present name for half that time.
It is a favorite resort of hunters, who come from Shanghai by
the railway and find pheasants and other small game in the
vicinity. The population is given as 182,000. The port was
opened to foreign trade in 1861. “Chinkiang is undoubtedly
the piettiest place on the river below Hankow. The Silver
Island Pass with its narrow and difficult channel, its great
rush of waters, its overhanging dills and bristling forts is
justly called the ‘Gate of the Yangtsze.’ Silver Island itself,
with its ancient temples, its fine trees and magnificent view,
is one of the most attractive spots in China. From the sum-
mit of the hill a good idea of the neighborhood can be gained.
On the north a low-lying plain interspersed with trees stretches
to the horizon, and on a clear day the pagoda of Yangchow
(a city associated with the name of Marco Polo) may be
discerned. To the eastward lies a labyrinth of islands and
waterways, all of which appertain to the Yangtsze, the main
stream of which bends to the southeast, passing the entrance
to the southern portion of the Grand Canal at Tant’u. On
the right bank classical Kanliishan, with its newly restored
temple and the remains of its famous iron pagoda, juts sharply
up. The native city and foreign settlement, overshadowed
by hills, line the water’s edge, and Golden Island w’itli its
temples and pagodas forms a weird background to the harbor
and shipping.^*
Golden Mountain, or Golden Island, is a place of more
than usual fame, partly because of the visits paid to it by the
*0. G. Ready in “With Boat and Gun in the \angtsze Valley.’*
152
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
renowned emperors, Kang Hsi and Ch’ien Lung, and •equally
because of tbe many beautiful spots, peaks, rocks and grottoes,
each one connected with some legend dear to the Chinese.
Kmperor Kang llsi visited the place in 1703 and gave names
to a number of points on the hill. About fifty years later
tlie Kmperor Ch’ien Lung came, occupying a temporary palace,
which had been erected for him on the summit. Here his
prolific poetic muse was inspired and he wrote a number of
poems in praise of the beauty of the place. On five subse-
quent visits he adtlcd a great many more poems, thus setting
the style for all the literati who followed him, with the result
that Golden Mountain could be hidden under the reams of
paper inscribed with poems in its praise. The Buddhist
temple on the hill was first erected in the sixth century, was
restored in 1021 and endowed by the court.
According to ]\rarco Polo Chinkiang was at one time a
stronghold of Neslorianism. lie says: “The Grand Khan, in
I27(S, sent there one of his barons, Marsargliis, who was a
Ncstorian Christian, to be governor of this city for three
years. And this is what he did: in the three years of his
rostdence there he built two Christian churches. And they
have remained since then, for before \vere none.”
The city is a center for the sale of what is known locally
as '‘Yangtszc mud ware” which is made at Yangchow.
Many kinds of small objects, especially trays and boxes, are
made of wood and covered with mud and papier mdche
which, when baked, presents a hard, glossy, black surface, a
rather crude imitation of black lacquer, or inlaid ebony.
Mother-of-pearl ornaments are laid in the mud, forming some
very handsome designs. The ware is serviceable and will
last a surprisingly long time, even when in daily use. It is
very cheap and not more than a few dollars should be paid
for the most elaborate piece.
The British fleet anchored off Chinkiang in 1842, after
silencing the forts, but since that time the channel of the river
has changed so much that the spot on which the fleet anchored
is now covered with villages. «
Among the missionary enterprises at Chinkiang are the
NANKING
153
China Inland Mission Hospital, Methodist Hospital tor
Women, Boarding School for Boys (Soiithern Presbyterian)
and Girls’ Boarding School (Methodist Episcopal). American
Baptists are also at work in this center.
Fifteen miles to the north of Chinkiang, on the banks of
the Grand Canal, is Yangchow, famous lor the wealth of its
men and the beauty of its women. It is the city where
Marco Polo served as governor for three years. A daily
launch service connects Chinkiang with Yangchow.
Nanking. — Capital of Kiangsu province, on the south bank
of the Yangtsze River, 193 miles from Shanghai. May be
reached by train on the Shanghai-Nanking Railway, or by
river steamer. Railway fare $8.40. Steamer fare $15.
Hotel, Bridge, near the railway .station and steamer landings.
Population, about 400,000, of this number 407 are Europeans
and Americans. The southern terminus of the Tientsin-
Pukow Railway is at Pukow, across the river from Nanking,
a launch service connecting the two places. Chinese and
Japanese post-offices. Automobiles, carriages and rieshas are
available. Automobiles $3 per hour, carriages $2 for half day,
rieshas about 20 cents an hour.
Nanking (southern capital) owes its name to the fact
that it has served several limes as tlie capital of the country.
The last emperors of China to reside in Nanking were the
early Mings, but the third Ming emperor, Yung Lo, deserted
it for Peking, as a means of keeping more secure control over
the north, threatened as it was by the Tartar and Mongol
tribes. Previously Nanking had been tlie scat of a kingdom
^even times. It was the residence of the king of Wu and
later, for 120 years, the capital of Eastern Chinai. For 800
years before the Ming dynasty, it was a city of great political
importance, though not the capital of the countiw. As
Nanking, the city dates only from the beginning of tlie Ming
<lynasty, but the city which was built as the capital of this
dynasty occupied the site of other cities whicli have Bgurcd
in the history of China for more than two thousand years'
under different names. The ancient city was known as
Kin-ling, but several centuries before Christ the name was
1S4
H A XDBOO K FOR CHINA
changed to Tan-yang, and later to Kiang-nan and Sheng
Chow.
It has been a walled city since the 5th or 6th century, the
present walls being built about 500 years ago. Surrounded
by hills and facing the Yangtsze river, Nanking is very
advantageously situated for defense and has been the vantage
point striven for by many of the leaders of China's numerous
rebellions. Probably a deciding reason why the great pirate
Koxinga failed to unseat the Manchus and restore the Ming
dynasty to the throne of China was because he failed to
capture Nanking. lie subjected it to a twenty days’ siege in
1657, but on the twentieth night those in the city made a
savage soitie, killing several thousands of the pirates’ re-
tainers and forcing the others to retire. The Taipings captured
the place and held it against a siege for eleven years (1853-
1864), it being the Taiping capital during that period. More
recently the Republicans captured it (1911) and made it the
capital of their provisional government. It was here that Dr.
Sun Yat Sen took his oath of office as President of the
Republic of China, on January 1, 1912, and here that he
remained until he resigned in favor of Yuan Shih K'ai.
The present walls of Nanking are among the linest in
China, being 40 to 60 feet high, 22 miles long, and 20
to 40 feet in thickness. They enclose a vast area, a large part
of which is now in vacant land, grown up with bamboo
groves or utilized by farmers. A number of stone bridges
crossing streams in the middle of fields, and unused for hun-
dreds of years, indicate the location of streets which existed
at a. time when Nanking was many times its present size.
The population inside the wall once numbered a million. During
the occupation of the Taipings, practically all of the monu-
mental works of an older period were destroyed, but enough
remain to indicate the glories of Nanking at its prime.
Outside the South gate of the city lies the only remaining
remnant of the great Porcelain Pagoda of Nanking. It is the
bronze cupola of the pagoda, now overturned, forming a
basin. That world-famous pagoda, the most beautiful in
Chinn, was destroyed by the Taipings. It was built in the
NANKING
155
early part of the fifteenth century by the Emperor Yiing-Lo
to commemorate the virtues of his mother aiid was encased in
the finest white glazed brick, while overhanging caves were
covered with green tiles and more than 100 bells hung from
the ornamented cornices. A few of the tiles from this pagoda
arc treasured by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New
York.*
A good macadam road leads from the suburb of Hsia
ivwan to the soutliern part of the city, seven miles distant
.11(1 several miles farther to the old Aling tombs. A
few minutes after leaving the suburb on this drive, one
passes through the principal gate in the walled city; on the
left is Lion Hill fort. There are a few scattered houses and
.1 few small groups of residences, and only an occasional ruin
indicates that it was ever more populous than at present.
Indeed, in places it is dinicult for one to believe that he is
not in the open country, but in a city, which, in its zenith,
was second to none. The circumference and solidity of the
Yanking walls indicate the importance of the position it
formerly held. After a drive of about four miles through
this part of the city, one reaches the Drum tower.
This massive structure is approximately the geographical
center of the city and was first erected in 1092 a.d. just 400
>cars before the discovery of America. The present structure
was built by Hungwu of the Ming Dynasty in preparation
for a battle against a force of rebels. He beat the large
drum, which could be heard at a great distance, and
*I<ongfellow celebrated this wonderful pagoda in his poem ‘‘Keramos,”
“And yonder by Nanking, behold
The tower of porcelain, strange and old.
Uplifting to the astonished skies
Its ninefold painted balconies.
With balustrade of twining leaves.
And roofs of tile beneath whose eaves
Hang porcelain bells that all the time
Ring with a soft melodious chime;
While the whole fabric is ablaze
With varied tints all fused in one
Great mass of color like a maze
Of flowers illumined by the sun.”
156
HANDBOOK ?OR CHINA
served as a sign for urging his soldiers to march against the
enemy. It was also used as a place for the study of geomantic
influences. The earliest European visitors to China made
note of this tower. Marco Polo spoke of it in 1274. So did
Xavier in 1552 and Ricci in 1581 though Xavier never visited
it. Fifty years ago, Mr. Duncan, the pioneer Protestant mis-
sionary to Nanking, took up his residence within the tower
because there was “no room for him elsewhere.”
Three roads branch off from the Drum Tower. Turning
to the right thc'gate of the Japanese Consulate is seen, and
beyond that the campus of the University of Nanking, which
stretches beside the road for more than half a mile. Farther
on other mission ])uildings arc seen, and within a radius of
a mile are to he found the compounds of the Methodist,
Presbyterian, Quaker and Catholic missions. Twisting
roads, at some places very narrow, bring the visitor to the
southern portion of the city, where resides the bulk of the
population.
Turning to the left at the Drum Tower and descending
the hill, I^c-chi-ko, or North vStar hill, a low hill surmounted
by a Taoist temple, is' seem at the left. This hill was the post
of command of the Manchii forces during the siege of igir.
Farther on the road passes the GovcVmnient Higher Norma,!
College, which has probably the best reputation of any school
of its kind in the country. The drill grounds and military
barracks are still farther east.
By any one of a number of routes the visitor may be
taken through the Tartar City, now a scene of desolation,
but containing an interesting museum, out of the East Gate
of the city and across the plain to the famous tomb of the
lirst Ming emperor.
Here in the side of a mountain the Emperor was buried,
in 13 ,8, and around the site of the tomb are grouped walls
and buildings which for more than five hundred years have
stood witness to the grandeur of the beginnings of the last
purely native dynasty to rule over China. Leading to the
tomb itself is a long avenue, bordered by huge stone figures
of animals and men, the whole being similar to the later
NANKING
157
Ming tombs near Peking, and the various burial places of
the Manchu rulers. . Indeed, this was the model of imperial
l)urial places followed thereafter for all the dead Emperors
of China. It is one of the thousand illustrations which go
to prove that the Manchus brought to China nothing superior
to that which they found there. The toml) suffered from the
visits of the Taipings and the buildings arc roollcs-s.
Dr. Sun Yat-scii visited these tombs on the establishment
of the Republic of China and in a solemn ceremony
informed the spirit of the first Miiig Emperor of the overthrow
of the Manchus, This is also the burial place of Empress
Hsiao and Prince Fiao, Emperor Hung Wu’s consort and
'jOn, both of whom died before him. Hung \Vu came of a
liumble family, living at Feng Yang Hsien, about 100 miles to
the north of Nanking, and served there as a servant in a
'duddhist temple. After his accession to power, one of his
first acts was to confer the posthumous titles of emperor, king
and queen, on his father, grandfather, great grandfather,
uncles, mother, aunts, etc. and to surround their graves with
monuments befitting tlieir rank. Many other interesting ruins
in or near the city include what remains of Hung VVu's palace
which was occupied by the Mings for fifty years. It is inside
the city walls and can he reached by the road leading east
from the TuchuiFs Yamen.
Other spots which may he of interest to the visitor arc
the Mint, one of the largest in the world; the beautiful
Lotus Lake; and various temples. In a .small temple not far
from the Drum Tower is one of the largest bells in
existence, said to owe its peculiar tone to the fact that the
daughters of the maker threw themselves into the metal
while still molten. Effigies of the daughters arc preserved to
testify to the authenticity of the story which is told of several
other bells in China.
The Examination Hall, containing cells for 20,000 stu-
dents, was built during the Ming dynasty and enlarged
iater. It is now unused and is being torn down. Near by
is an ancient Confucian temple. Outside the South Gate is
the Precious-Stone Tea-house, built on a small hill. Accord-
158
IIANBOOK fOK CHINA
ing to an ancient legend, a priest in the reign of Wu Ti, of
the Liang dynasty, chanted the sutras of Buddha and showers
of flowers come down from heaven and turned into colored
stones. The soil of the hill is full of gaily colored pebbles
which are disclosed every time a heavy rain falls and are sold
at the tea-house. From the top of the hill a good view may
be obtained.
Although a city of great commercial importance in
ancient times, Nanking has been outstripped by its rivals but
is now entering on a new period of development.
Nanking was made an open port for foreign trade by the
French treaty of 1858’, but it was not formally opened until
1899. Chinese officials have tried for many years to maintain
the contention that the open port is confined to llsia Kwan,
but tin.sncccssfully. In 190S the Shanghai-Naiiking Railway'
was com))leted, while the Tientsin 'Pukow Railway was
opened in 1912. Pukow is on the opposite bank of the
river from Nanking. The railway station and steamer land-
ing are in llsia Kwan, a suburb of Nanking, north of the city
walls. During the late years of the Alanchn regime progres-
sive viceroys made many improvements in Nanking, including
the building of good roads, so that it is possible to reach
almost any point in a carriage, a rare privilege in a Cliinese
city. A city railway runs from llsia Kwan to the southern
end of the walled city, making connections with the Shanghai-
Nanking trains.
Nanking is a favorite place with hunters, who find fox,
wolf, rabbit, pheasant, pigeon, wild duck and wild pig in the
vicinity.
Nanking was an early field for the work of foreign
missionaries and is to-day one of the most important
missionary centers in the country. Probably the most
noteworthy achievement of missionary work in Nanking has
been the establishment of several union enterprises. The
University of Nanking is under the joint management of
four dilTcrent denominations. The Union Bible vSehool is
conducted by five denominations and students attend from a
larger lunnber of communions. The Union Bible School for
NANT'JNCCllOW
159
bible women is supported by a number of different societies
iiaving work in the Yangtsze V'alley and a training school
for nurses is supported by the different societies working
in Nanking. Besides three ho'^pitals for Chinese the mis-
sionary community maintains a hospital for foreigners only.
Kiangsu Province. — The province of Kiangsu has an area
of 38,600 square miles and a population of 14 millions. “Its
name is derived from the two cities Kiangning (Nanking)
and Soochow.” With the exception of a few hills which were
once islands off the shore of the mainland, almost the whole
of the province consists of flat and very fertile land, formed
of the sediment deposited by the Yangtsze and the Yellow
Rivers, and is only a few feet above the sea level. In addition
to the many natural waterways which traverse the province,
there are hundreds of canals, marking the boundaries of almost
every large land holding. The land is so intensely cultivated,
especially in the southern part of the province, that the whole
country has the appearance of a garden and is particularly
beautiful during the growing season. The important cities
are Shanghai, Nanking, Soochow, Chinkiang and Wusih.
Nanking and Souchow have for centuries been looked upon as
among the mo.st cultured cities in the country, while Shanghai
holds first place in commerce. No other province has such a
large population of foreigners and probably in no other are
there so many Chinese who have been educated abroad, or arc
graduates of mission schools in China. All of these things
go to make Kiangsu the most cultured, the wcaltliiest and
the most progressive of provinces.
Nanlungchow.— Unlike other cities in China, this place is
not noted for its ancient monuments but rather for the fact
that it is the model modern city of China. Naiitungchow is
not a tourist resort and the hurried traveler will find there
little to interest him but no one who is making a serious study
of China should fail to visit it. It is al)out 100 miles from
Shanghai on the Yangtsze, easily accessible by the Yangtsze
River steamers. The population of the city is 150,000 and
of the district about 1,500,000. The city is the home of
Hon. Chang Chien, formerly Minister of Commerce and
160
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
Agriculture, and it is largely due to his efforts that the city
and district stand out as models for the rest of China. No
beggars are to be found in the entire district and there is
none of the poverty which is to be found in all other parts of
China. The city and district contain fifty miles of modern
roads, cotton and sericultural experiment stations, modern
cotton mills, cotton seed oil mill, modern banks, a match
factory, etc. As an indication of the progress of the place it
may be said that Nantungchow has more country motor
roads than can be found around Slianghai. Those who wish
to make a study of this progressive section should, if possible,
secure letters of introduction to Mr. Chang Chien or notify
the Nantungchow Chamber of Commerce in advance of the
proi)Osed visit. There are several semi-modern liotels in
the city.
The Yangtsze River,— No trip to China would be complete
without a voyage on the Yanglsze, one of the largest river.s
ill the w'orld. Rising on the high plateaux of Tibet, the
Yangtszc flows into the ocean near Shanghai, 3000 miles from
its source. It is navigable for ocean steamers for 600 miles
and several lines maintain regular sailings from Hankow to
ports all over the world. Hankow is the terminus of the river
steamers which sail from Shanghai daily. Other lines connect
at Hankow for the upper river. The lower part of the river
is broad and the fall is so slight that tides are strong enough
to swing vessels anchored at Wuhu, 200 miles from the ocean.
The river drains an area of 650,000 square miles, but of this,
more than four-fifths is above Hankow, so that for the 600
miles between Hankow and the sea the river is very much
like a’ great canal. At a comparatively recent geological period
practicrll/ all of the present Yangtsze Valley was under the
sea, and the land has been built up by the sediment carried by
that great river. At the present time this amounts to 6428
million cubic feei: a year— enough to deposit a layer a foot
thick over an area of 23 square miles. The country around
the mouth of the river is recently formed, as indicated by the
fact that Kunshaii was formerly on the seacoast.
The rather dreary flat country near the mouth of the
The yangtsze river
161
Yangtsze soon gives way to wooded hills, which at Kiukiang
rise to mountain heights. 1 he land is the most fertile in
China, and the river is bordered with small farms and villages
and several important cities.
The upper 1,600 miles, from Tibet to Sui-fu (Hsii-chou-
fii) in south Szechuen, is torrential and is almost anknowm.
From the Tibetan border to Sui-fu it falls at about eight
feet per mile. It is there known as the Chin-sha Chiang or
Chin-Ho, the ‘‘Golden” river, and has one big tributary, the
Ya-Iung. At Sui-fu another important tributary, the Min,
enters. This, being rather more navigable, was formerly
considered the main stream. From Sui-fu to Ichang, the
river varies greatly in width, passes through numerous
gorges and lias many dangerous rapids. Two large tributar-
ies enter it, the Kia-ling and the Kung-tan. The former is
important as being the main stream of the Szechuen plain,
and at its junction with the Yangtsze there is the important
treaty port of Chungking. From Ichang, which owes its
importance to its position at the emergence of the river from
the gorges downward navigation is normal and continues
thoughout all seasons of the year, whereas between Cluuig-
king and Ichang, the great variations in the water level (as
much as one lumclred feet at Chungking has been recorded)
make that section difficult and dangerous both at low and
high waters,
*Tchang is one thousand miles from the mouth. Fifty
miles further down is Shasi, at which point dykes commence
and are continued, with a few breaks in the hilly parts, down
to the sea. The annual variation of level in this part
averages about thirty-five feet. At Yo-chou, a treaty port
about two hundred miles below Ichang, a large volume of
water enters from the Tung-T'ing Lake and its feeders.
The important city of Changsha is served by this water
connection. Next comes Hankow, some six hundred miles
from the mouth, at which place the Han river discharges into
the Yangtze. From Hankow to the sea, navigation is
possible at all times of year for small draught steamers and
in the summer large-occan going vessels may be seen along
162
HANDBOOK TOR CHINA
it. At T\Iuki\ing another lake and its feeders pour into the
river. 'Uiis is the ik)-yaii" lake around the shores of which
most of the population of Kiangsi dwells.” *
Important points on the Low er Yangtsze arc: —
Miles I'rom Miles from
Shangiiai Hankow
0 Shanghai (see page 103) 600
112 Cliinkiang (sec page 151) 4?8
205 Nanking (see page 153) 395
255 Wuhu (sec page 162) 345
355 Ahking (see page 163) 245
45(S Kiukiang » see page 165) 142
600 Hankow (see page 171) 0
For a description of the famous Yangtsze Gorges trip
see page 180.
Wuhu. — On the south bank of the Yangtsze, about 50
miles from Xaidviiig, is Wuhu, a treaty port opened in 1877.
It has a population of 200,000. Uice is grown in great quantity
near \^'uhu, which is the Yangtsze valley emporium for that
grain.
One of the important industries of Wuhu is lumber.
Here the groat Yangtsze timlter rafts arc hiokcii up and
smaller ones formed to ho sent itito creeks and estuaries.
The foreshore of the city is usually lined with wood and
timber rafts, b'ignrcs for 1919 show total imports and
exports of all commodities amounted to d'ls. 66,000,000. The
principal export items were: rice, 534,000 tons; iron ore,
138,000 tons and 80 million eggs. As Wuhu is at low water
the head of navigation for deep draught steamers, its com-
mercial importance will doubtless grow.
Among several interesting temples in the city is one built
in memory of Li Tai-po, the popular Chinese, poet, who
ilourished in the eighth century. For a long time his great
talent wa.s unappreciated for the poet was drunk so often
that no one dared present him to the Emperor. At length he
agreed to reform, was received by the Emperor ami prospered
in the receipt of royal favor. But one night while crossing
dSncyclopaedia Sinica.
ANKircC
163
the Yangtszc near Wului, after a rather convivial dinner, he
attempted to embrace the reflection of the moon which lie
saw in the water, fell overboard and was drowned.
The Roman Catholic church is a conspicuous object
from the river. Missions: American Episcopal, Methodist.
Christian, ^Missionary Alliance, and China Inland.
About midway between Wuhu and Anking, 25 miles to
the south, the passenger on a Vangtszc river boat can see the
Nine Lotus Flower Mountain made up of a number of sharp
and rugged pcak6. This mountain is one of tlic most famous
])laces in this part of China and on it arc located many
temples of more than usual fame, as well as the burial places
of some of the greatest saints, both real and imaginary, of
past ages. Each autumn the mountain is visited by thousands
of pilgrims who come for hundreds of miles to pay their
devotions.
Anking.*— On the Vangtszc River, 150 miles from Nan-
king and 355 miles from Shanghai, is Anking, the capital of
Anhui province. It has a population of less than 100,000,
being one of the smallest and least important of China's
provincial cajutals. With the exception of one or two
buildings and the walls, the city was completely destroyed by
the Tai|)ings and has L’cen rebuilt since that time. Some of
the T.iiping embankments remain in the vicinity. The (treat
Fagoda, outside the luistcni gate, is the finest in the Yangtsze
Valley, and in the fanciful ideas of the Chinese, serves as a
mast to the city, winch is thought of as a boat. To heighten
the illusion, two large anchors arc fixcfl in the walls. 1 he
I)agoda is seven stories high and on each tier arC luiiig many
small bells which tinkle in tlie wind. In conformity wiih its
diameter as a mast, it is reputed to b3 elastic and to sway
in the wind. For a similar reason, there is a popular local
superstition against the appointment of men with the names
of Peng, “sail,” or Chiang, “oar,” to important locnl offices
as it is believed that if this were done the city would float
down the river.
Sometimes spelled Ngankliig-
164
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
Anking is a center for the manufacture of Indian ink. Oil
lamps are lighted in closed rooms and the soot which collects
on walls and ceiling is removed and compressed into cakes of
ink. The city formerly enjoyed more political importance
than at present, as it was once the capital of the ancient
kingdom of Wan.
Missions: American Episcopal, China Inland.
Anhui* Province. — The area of the province of Anhui
is 54,810 square miles and its population is 23 millions. The
Yangtsze divides the province, one-third being south and two
thirds of the area north of that river. The southern part is
mountainous, fertile, has many fine forests and abounds in
beautiful scenery, while the northern part is a plain, subject
to drouth and flood and is practically deforested. The soil
in this part of the province has been greatly impoverished
by the deposits of sand from floods of the Yellow River,
made before that erratic stream adopted its present northern
course. It is one of the famine regions of China and was the
scene of a disastrous famine in 1911-12. At that time over
$1,000,000 was spent in relief, most of the work being done
by missionaries, who used the labor of the famine sufferers
in the construction of embankments and ditches built to pre-
vent future disasters of the kind. For several years the
American Red Cross Society has been making surveys of the
northern part of Anhui and the adjoining northern part of
Kiangsu, preparatory to planning permanent flood-preventive
work. That part of Anhui province which lies south of the
Yangtsze is prosperous. There arc a number of lakes in
Anhui, the largest being the Hongtsze in the northeast and
the Chao in the center; all abound in wild fowl, and are the
winter homes of wild geese. Probably the best hunting
section is near Taiping, Hweichow is a city of the province
famous for its bankers, who are so wealthy and have such a
monopoly of the business in some districts, that there is a
popular saying: “It is impossible to do business without a
Hweichow man.”
Sometimes spelled Nganhui.
KIUKIANG
165
Kiulciang.— This city, “The City of Nine Rivers,” is on
the Yangtsze, near the outlet of the Po3^ang Lahe, 142 miles
from Hankow and 458 miles from Shanghai. Steamer fare
from Shanghai $35, return $55. Population about 70,000.
River steamers usually stop long enough at Kiukiang to allow
a trip through the Chinese city.
Kiukiang has great fame as having been one of the most
fruitful fields for the propagation of Buddhism when that
religion was introduced from India. The beautiful Lushan
mountains (4000 feet high) surrounding the place arc covered
with famous temples and arc visited by thousands of pilgrims
every autumn. Kiukiang was occupied by the Taipings in
1853 and when again recovered by the Imperialists had been
almost completely destroyed. Since the opening of the place
to foreign trade, it has slowly built up, but tlie present city
has not regained its old-time importance.
,, Opposite the campus of the American Methodist
Women’s Foreign Missionary Society in Kiukiang is the
Monastery of Benevolence, a sacred place which was once
famous as far away as Tibet. More than a thousand
years ago, an abbot in Kiukiang had a dream in which
Buddha told him that on a certain day a divinity would
come down the Yaiigts/e from Tibet. At the appoint-
ed time, the abbot and many others were on the bank
of the river watching, when a stone boat arrived, occupied by
a majestic being, who was immediately escorted with great
pomp to the shrine appointed for him and Buddhists came from
far and near to offer their devotions. A life-size image of
the divinity was made of iron, in order to perpetuate his good
influence, and the temple remained the Mecca of thousands
for several centuries.
After the Taiping rebellion, the old abbot’s successor
returned to Kiukiang to find his famous temple destroyed an^
no vestige of the iron god, which had brought it so much
fame and prosperity. Discouraged and despondent he was
walking across the fields one day, when he stumbled over an
object which protruded from the ground. This proved to
be the iron god, minus an arm, and suffering from other
166
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
mutilations at the hands of the sacrilegious Taipings.
defects were soon remedied and the idol restored, with a fresh
coat of gilding, ft may now he seen in the monastery, while
the stone boat in which the deity arrived is in the courtyard.
The idol is in a glass case in the rear of the grounds. In th.c
temple is a bell which is continuously tolled, every stroke
sending a flash of light into the Buddhist Hades. The pagoda
near by was constructed by the literati of Kiukiang who had
for several years failed to pass the official examinations.
The spirits were so propitiated by the erection of this pagoda
that thereafter the local scholars were almost uniformly suc-
cessful.
Kiukian.g is one of the mo.st noted centers in Cliina for
the sale of both porcedain and silver-ware. 'I'he former is
brought to Kiukiang from Ching-tcdi-chcn, where all the im-
perial pottery was made for centuries, Kiukiang being the port
from which it was sliipped after inspection by the porcelain
commissioner who h ul liis residence in this city until the
revolution of 1911, The silversmiths’ work is very interest-
ing to the touri.st not only because of the primitive methods
employed hut also because of th.e cx(|uisitc results attained.
Much silk is made in and about Kiukiang and on the shelves
of the crude-appearing shops may be found roll upon roll
of luxurious brocades, .satins and silk.s of every shade.
Tliis city boasts of the largest and oldest girls’ school in
Central China — Rulison High School — which was founded
over forty years ago under the auspices of the Woman’s For-
eign Missionary Society of the Methodist Fpiscopal Church.
On the school’s alumnae roll appear the names of Doctor Ida
Kahn and Doctor ^lary Stone, whose hospitals arc well known
in Central China. William Nast College is also maintained
at Kiukiang by the American Methodist Episcopal Mission.
Among tlic other missions are: American Protestant Epis-
copal and China Inland.
Reference for further reading: Sac red Places in
China'' by Carl Kiipfer.
Killing. — This summer resort which each year grows more
popular* with foreigners living in Central China is 15 miles
KULIXG
l67
south of Kiukiang in the Lu Shan at an altitude of 3500 fee
above sea level. The climate here is temperate, rarely falling
below 15^ in winter while the mean niaximuin of the summer
is about 75^. During the summer season when hundreds of
visitors come to Kuling from all parts of the Yaiigtsze valley,
special arrangements are made for transportation from Kiu-
kiang. Motor cars, carriages and chairs have been used with
varying success. Information as to the best means of trans-
portation available at the lime of one’s visit can always he
obtained at Kiukiang. If possible it is belter to notify the
Manager’s Assistant at Kiukiang several days before arrival,
giving information as to the number in the party and amount
of baggage. Letters should be addressed, “Rest House,
Kiukiang.”
The estate at Kuling is situated in one of the finest
valleys of the Lu Shan and has been made a very attractive
place. There arc now about 300 summer residences in the
valley. Tennis courts and a swimming pool have been
provided and a hotel built. Protestant missionaries from all
parts of China congregate here during the summer and many
meetings of educational and religious associations arc held.
Kuling is admirably situated for a summer resort and is
surrounded by many points of interest, which can be reached
by short excursions. The White Deer (irotto, one of the
most famous of these, has the more or less romantic repu-
tation of being the oldest university in the world. During
the ninth century Li Pu, an illustrious poet, made this place
his study, living in the artificial grotto which he built. He
was* always accompanied by a tame white deer and in the
14th century an image of the deer was carved by one of his
followers and placed in the grotto. Owing to the fame of Li
Pu, the grotto became a favorite resort for scholars, es-
pecially during the troubled period following the end of the
Tang dynasty, when there were many contenders for the
throne. A school was opened here at that time and buildings
erected. In 9G0, the school was raised to the rank of a
university and the attendance greatly increased. The
university was enlarged during the Sung dynasty by the
168
HANDBOOK rOR CHINA
famous PIiu Hsi, but of late years the buildings have fallen
into decay. It is still freqiu^nted by students, who con-
gregate tliere in great numbers during the summer.
Nanchang. — To the south of Poyang Lake, on the Kan
River, is Nanchang, with a population estimated at from
750,000 to 1 million, the capital of Kiangsi province. It is
connected by rail with Kiukiang and intending visitors should
take the rail route though it is possible to go by boat across
the lake. Nanchang is not a treaty port, has no foreign hotel
and only about thirty foreign residents. No one should go
there except with letters of introduction to local foreigners.
The secretary of the Y. M. C. A. can usually make arrange-
ments for the accomodation of visitors.
Nanchang is unique in that its fine walls, 22 miles in
circumference, have never been scaled by an enemy during
the l>0() years of its existence. It is one city in Central China
which the Taipiiigs were unable to lake and during the recent
revolutions it suffered little damage. In the minds of
Nancliang residents credit for this remarkable record is due
to the town’s great deified srdnt, Hsu Chin Yang who at one
time saved the province from flood by killing a dragon snake
which was threatening to make the province a part of the
Yellow Sea, ITsu cast the dragon into a well and as a result
he was (A. D. 200) deified by the Taoists and made
’‘Universal Lord of Happiness.” Many temples in all parts
of China are dedicated to him.
Located 120 miles from Ching TchChen, the great pottery
and porcelain center, it is an important point for the distribu-
tion of these wares. The local grass cloth is specially famous.
Other important exports are tea, cotton, hemp, tobacco, paper
and indigo. The stock of curios and works of art are
perhaps more numerous than in most cities because the place
has never been looted. The city is located on the old
“Ambassador’s Route” which led directly from Canton
northwnrd through Kwangtung and Kiangsi provinces to
Kiukiang. It was over this route that the McCartney Embassy
passed in 1793 on its way to Peking (see page 50,) Later, in
1816, the Amlierst Embassy returned by the same route.
NANCHANC
169
Long and glowing accounts of the journeys through the
Meiling Pass and down the Kan river to Nanchang and out
into Poyang Lake are given in the record of these missions.
Nanchang is- a conservative, proud, and wealthy city. It
still looks with suspicion upon the innovations brought in by
the foreigner. Western influence has not yet penetrated the
city to any noticeable extent. Foreign goods are exceedingly
scarce and western methods of doing business have not been
adopted by the local merchant. A foreigner is unable to
jiurchase western made clothing or other goods in
the city. He must even send his white collars a hundred
miles to Kiukiang to be laundered. If he wants a first class
roast of beef to break the monotonous diet of chicken and
duck, he must send to the same place for it. China is a
country of contradictions and conservative Nanchang is
most progressive along some lines, for there were electric
lights here some years before this modern innovation wms
seen in Nanking. Compared with other Chinese cities, sani-
tation is well taken care of. A health department does consi-
derable in the way of street cleaning and food inspection.
The first o])ject of interest that one notices on his
approach to Nanchang is the pagoda of the gilded ball, a
ball which is said to be of pure gold One of the unique
features of interest is the pavilion called Tung Wen Kou,
built in honor of a twelve year old boy of marvelous ability.
He was a poet and essayist and possessed a remarkable style
which has been copied by thousands of scholars. To see
Nanchang in its entirely and in its natural geographical
setting, one has only to climb the steps of the Fire Tower.
Here from a height of nearly three hundred feet one can
pick out every point of interc.st that makes the name of Nan-
chang so famous among Chinese.
Five Protestant and one Catholic missions are operating
in the city: the. Episcopal, Methodist, Plymouth Brethren,
China Inland Mission and the Y.M.C. A., the latter being the
latest to enter the field. Day and night schools, hospitals,
social service programs^ etc., are carried on by the missions in
addition to the regular strictly religious activities.
170
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
Kiangti Province.— The province of Kiangsi has an area
of 69,480 square miles and a population which is estimated at
26 millions. One half of the province is mountainous and
hilly while there are a few large tracts of flat land which are
given over almost entirely to the cultivation of rice.
Tobacco, sugar cane, hemp and lumber are among the less
important productions of the province. In many places the
land is so fertile that with favorable seasons four crops a
year may be gathered. There are extensive orange groves in
several of the prefectures. Probably the finest tea in the
world comes from the famous valley ofWuningand Ning-
chow, most of the production going to Russia, where it
commands a high price. The mineral resources of the province
are extensive but, as in other parts of China, are inadequately
developed. A great deal of the coal used in the great steel
>Yorks of Hanyang comes from the Pinghsiang mines. A
railway extends due west from the mine to connect with the
proposed llankow-Canton railway. There arc also iron
mines and a few unimportant washings for gold. The finest
porcelain in China is manufactured in this province. The
only forests in the province are in the southeast and
southwest. Kiangsi is very rich in skins and tliose found
on the market are leopard, wolf, tiger, wild cat, oppossum,
raccoon, badger, deer, otter and fox. •
Ching-teh-chen. — A visit to the famous porcelain center
of Chiiig-tch-chcn from Kiukiang may be added to a Yangtszc
River trip without a great deal of difficulty. The town
stands on the northern branch of the Jaochou river, which
flows into the Poyang lake. The most convenient route
is across this lake from Kiukiang, in a junk, or, possibly, with
a steam launch. Chairs may be engaged at Jaochou for the
fifty-mile trip. The route follows close to the river bank,
passing through a hilly, wooded and well cultivated country.
It is also possible to make the trip in a shallow-draft river
boat, which arrangement would add tg the pleasures of the
journey. Travelers, however, should take a Chinese guide
and servants or arrange to go with some one who knows the
country. There are only the poorest of native inns. No
TH£ WU-HAN QltlZS
171
one should undertake a journey of this kind without
the proper preparations. The town itself is almost entirely
devoted to porcelain making, in which 100,000 to 200,000
persons are employed at the 160 furnaces. Its works are not
now so important as they were in the days of Marco Polo,
but the processes are the same, and the visitor will have
every opportunity to sec how the world-famous porcelains
arc produced. Here are the imperial kilns in which
porcelain for the imperial family was manufactured. This
is of superior workmanship, only the most skilled workmen
being employed. The output was supposed to be limited
to the wants of the Imperial family but many pieces alleged
to contain imperfections were sold.
The Wu-Han Cities. — At the junction of the Han and
Yangtsze Rivers, 600 miles from the sea, are located the
three cities of Hankow, Wuchang and Hanyang, commonly
grouped under the name of “The Wu Han Cities.’' Fare
from Shanghai $50.00, from Peking, e.xpress train, first class,
$73.50. Of the three cities Hankow is the most important,
though Wuchang is capital of the province of Hupeh, and in
Hanyang arc located great steel works and a government
arsenal and powder works.
The Chinese city of Hankow and the British, French,
Russian and Japanese foreign settlements occupy the
north bank of the Yangtsze, east of the Han. A fine
Bund fronts the various concessions, extending for two
miles along the river. Each settlement has its own national
post office, and, to a certain extent, its own local government.
The port was opened to foreign trade in 1S61, when the site
of the British concession was marked out. At the same time
the French and Russian concessions were granted but the
French did not take possession until 1896. The German
and Japanese concessions were granted in 1895. In 192(J llie
Chinese government took possession of the German conces-
sion. The great commercial growth of the port dates from the
completion of the Peking-Hankow railway. West of the Han
is Hanyang, and south of the Yangtsze, which is 1300 yards
wide at this point, is Wuchang. Hankow is connected with
172
HANDi:OOK POR CHINA
PVkinc; by the Han!:ow-Pekin" railway (768 miles) and ocean
steamers sail rec?nl:irly from this port for principal European
ports. Hankow has the center ofthe black-tea indus-
try, chielly corKhicted. by Russians, while at Hanyan.q: are the
famous steel works which have been able to deliver jiijr iron
in Xcw York in competition with tiic furnaces at Pittsbur;*.
When China’s railway system is complete. Wuchang will hr-
connected with Canton by rail and the three cities will then
])e at the junction of the biggest railway artery in the country
(t’lc Peking-Canton railway) and the Yangtsze and Han
rivers. It has already assumed great commercial importance
and is vShanghai’s most serious competitor for the trade of
the Yanglsze valley.
Wuchang is cliielly famous as the starting point for the
roi cut revolution, though the most bloody battles were fought
outback of the foreign concessions of Hankow. The Chinese
city of Hanlcovv. with it.^ rich shops and line guild houses,
was almost completely destroyed by fires during the revolu-
tion. \iter the revolution it was proposed to relaiild the city
along modern lines, the most popular hitilding plan being
inoilekal after that of Washington. 1). C., hnt at this writing
llie work has not been commenced owing to the liiiancial
emlairassinent wliich lias hampered the government.
Hankow was ftjrmerly regarded as only a siihiirli of tlie
ancient city of Hanyang, but has oiitstrippeil tliat city, its
growth being especially rapid since the establishment of tiie
foreign concessions. The handsome I’nnd, liegun by the
nriti;di, has been extended by other nationalities until it is
now more than two miles in length. Chinese arc not allowed
to own property in tlie foreign settlements whicli are consc-
iliiently less crowded than other settlements of foreigners in
China.
A visit to the great steel works in Hanyang should be
made, it being advisable to secure perniisjion for the visit
from the h.cad ollice in Shanghai. The plan for the steel
works originated with Chang Chih-tiing who, as viceroy of
Canton, memorialized the throne on the need of railways
built with Chinese capital and material. Accordingly he was
THS WU-HAN CmfiS
173
sent to Hankow where 5 million dollars were spent on the
works without much success. The plant represents a strange
mixture of Chinese progressiveness and superstition for, while
it contains the latest and best machinery, it was located on
the direction of geomancers, with the result that expensive
and unnecessary trans-shipments of coal and ore add to the
expenses of operation. The iron ores are mined at Taych,
50 miles southwest, and the ore is loaded into lighters at a
place called Wong-shi-kong which can be seen from the river
steamers. The coke comes from the colliery at Pinghsiang
more than 300 miles distant. The plant is under contract to
supply the Japanese government iron works at Wakamatsu
with ore of Bessemer grade. Hanyang is also the location of
large government arsenal and an extensive plant for making
smokeless powder.
Several foreign hotels are to be found in Hankow, but
travelers usually make arrangements to remain on board
river steamers which anchor alongside the Bund.
Wuchang is surrounded by a wall 7 miles in length and
is cut into two almost equal parts by Serpent Hill. Some years
ago "a new road was blasted across the ridge for wheeled
traffic ; but when the Viceroy took up his residence, he suffered
irom an obstinate carbuncle on his neck. The Chinese doctors
ilcclared it was because this carriage road had cut down into
the serpent’s neck and was hurting his backbone. The
Viceroy hastily enlisted all available men and had the new
rut filled in at a cost of 600 taels; then the serpent let his
ucck heal.” Since the revolution, however, the dragon has
tost his power and a tunnel has been made through the hill,
'-'he principal street of the city, lined by 700 shops, runs north
of the hill.
Wuchang, before 300 B. C. was the capital of the King-
oom of Chu and from 25 to 589 A. D. was the capital of Wu.
As has been mentioned, it was around the three Wu-
lan cities that the principal battles of the recent anti-dynastic
• evolution were fought. On October 9, 1911, the accidental
f xplosion of a bomb at 14 Pao-hsing Li, a street in the
Russian concession, revealed the headquarters of the local
174
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
revolutionists. Viceroy Jui Cheng, in Wuchang, was notified
at once and during that night and the following day in-
stituted a vigorous search for rebels in Wuchang, a number
being captured and beheaded.
On the evening of October 10, the city of Wuchang
was filled with excited crowds, and a small section of the
troops mutinied. Others joined them and before dawn they
had driven the Viceroy, the imperial commanders and other
officials out of the city. The fighting began about a week
later, the interim being occupied with preparations on both
sides. The rebels quickly grew in number, thousands
coming from near Wuchang to enlist under the leadership
of General Li Yuan Hung. Peking quickly realized the
gravity of the situation and hurried troops to Hankow.
By the latter part of the month, the rebels had moved a
large part of their forces across the river to Kilometer Ten,
near Hankow, where they met the imperial forces recently
arrived from Peking. The actual engagements betv;een
organized forces on each side began on October 27, when 500
imperial troops opened fire on a village near Kilometer Ten,
where a number of revolutionists were encamped. With short
lulls, the fighting continued for a month, the imperialists slow
ly driving the revolutionists along the rear of the foreign con ■
cessions to the Chinese city of Hankow. Failing to dislodgr
them from the streets, the city, was fired by the imperial com
manders and practically all was burned. The great majority
of the population of half a million had fled to the country
before this and few lives were lost in the flames.
The revolutionists crossed the river and made ineffectual
attempts to drive out the imperialists, while they were siu •
cessful in preventing an attack on Wuchang. Early in th^-
engagement it developed that practically all of the crew aii l
officers of the Chinese fleet sympathized with the revolii
tionists and later the guns of the vessels were turned on tlr
imperialists.
The local fighting ended on November 27, when tb *
imperialists, after a battle of five days, crossed the Han riv( '
and took Hanyang, the victory being attributed by many to
CHANGSHA
175
the fact that the revolutionary troops had been bribed. Im-
mediately thereafter, Nanking was taken ty the Republi-
cans, and an armistice brought an end to the fighting.
Those who are interested in missionary work should not
fail to visit the Roman Catholic Orphanage in the British
concession, Boone University (controlled by the American
Church Mission) in Wuchang and the Hodge Memorial
Hospital and the David Hill School for the Blind (both in-
stitutions being under the control of the English Wesleyan
Church) in the heart of the Hankow Chinese city; the
Griffith John Memorial College, and the headquarters and
printing works of the national Bible Society of Scotland.
There arc many other missions and missionary institutions.
Hupeh Province. — This is one of the most densely
populated provinces of China, having a population of 3.S
millions and an area of 71,000 square miles. The province is
hilly and mountainous, while there are numerous lakes and
swamps in the two valleys (Yangtsze and Lower Han) into
which the province is divided. A very small part of the total
area is arable land. Timber is scarce except in the hills and
mountains of the west, which are 7000 to 10,000 feet high.
Marco Polo spoke of the thick woods on the plains but these
forests have disappeared as have so many other forests of
China. Iron and coal milling are among the principal
industries of Hupeh, large quantities being mined in the
Tayeh and ^-Pingdisiang districts. Agriculturally, the
province is of minor importance. It produces no rice for
export and the exportation of tea has declined. Outside the
Wu-Han cities, the principal towns are Ichang and Shasi.
Changsha.— For about nine months of the year, as long
as the river Siang has sufficient water, foreign steamers run
between Hankow and Changsha. Fare $27. The railway
from Wuchang to Changsha was opened in 1918 but owing
to military activities in the province, the service has been
uncertain. There is no food or bedding and these the traveler
must provide for himself. The steamer service is usually
closed from about the middle of November to the middle of
February. A foreign-style hotel has recently been opened
176
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
outside the South Gate and it sends a small boat to meet
steamers. Frequently those who visit the city make the
round trip on the steamers, which generally go on to
Siangtan where an afternoon and night is spent.
Changsha, the capital of Hunan province, lies more than
200 miles southwest of Hankow on the Siang river. It was
one of the last cities in China to hold ou*: against the dc-
raancs of the foreign merchant and missionary for entrance.
Until the Boxer movement in 1900 less than a score of
foreigners had ever been able to get inside the city and most
of these were promptly expelled as soon as their presence
became known to the authorities. In 1901 the missionaries
were permitted to come into the city and in 1903 the place
was opened as a treaty port ; but it is still difficult for a
foreign firm to rent a shop inside the city. Outside the walls
there is an increasing number of foreign business houses and
the foreigti residents number more than 100.
The city has a population of 400,000 and is enclosed by a
wall with seven gates. Five new gates, however, have been
uponed since the revolution, making twelve in all. Accord-
ing to local tradition the first wall was built by Prince Wu
Jui al)Out 202 B. C. The only relic of this famous ‘‘ King of
Changsha" is found in the Chia I temple on Taiping Road in
Changsha, where a marble bed on which his great adviser,
Chia I, once slept is exhibited. In 1637 the city w?s captured
by rebels and ten years later the walls w^ere entirely rebuilt
by the Manchus.
Changsha, like the mountainous province of which it is
the capital, is even more famous for the men it has produced
thfn for any of its manufactured or natural products. Many
families of the city are able to boast of having in the family
tree the names of viceroys, governors and famous generals,
and the city abounds in temples and arches which honor the
local heroes. "The celebrated Dragon Festival, observed
with the greatest iclat on the fifth day of the fifth moon
throughout China, owes its origin to the suicide by drowning,
near Changsha of an early statesman and poet, Ch'u Yuan,,
author of the interesting elegy, the L,i Sao." Changsha was-
CHAMGSHA
177
one of the few places which successfully withstood attacks of
the'Taipings, though it was besieged for eighty days. Be-
cause of this, it earned the title of “The City of the Iron
Gat?s.” The Changsha people are justly proud of the walls
and gates, which have been kept in a good state of repair.
Visitors are usually shown a few rusty old cannon, mounted
on the city wall. The weapons lost their usefulness long
ago, but are still held in j:rcat esteem because of the excellent
service they performed in the defense of the city against the
Taipings.
The city is on the eastern bank of the Siang, the largest
of the three rivers which flow into Tungting kakc. On the
western bank of the Siang river is Yolii Shan, a hill said
by geomancers to be under the literary star. A university
which has been in continuous existence for 700 years
is located on this eminence. On the hill is a stone monu-
ment recording the mastery of the floods by the great Yii.
This monument is but a replica of the one on Ke Lo Feng, a
mountain peak near Hengchou about a hundred miles south
of Changsha, which though said to have been placed there by
an order of Yii Wang in 2205 B. C. is generally believed to
be a forgery. The characters on this monument, in imitation
of the old tadpole style of Cliinese writing, would appear
to indicate a great age. The hill is much frequented by
residents and visitors, especially in the warm days of
spring.
The streets of Changsha are cleaner and wider than those
of most other Chinese cities and it has I'uie buildings and w'ell-
laid-out gardens. Many of the shops are magnificent and
imposing. A distinctively local industry is outline embroid-
ery in black and white, on silk and satin. Linen, or China
grass cloth, is produced in the neighborhood and is exported
in large quantities. Changsha is also noted for its white
brass ware and pewter teapots. The bamboo workers of
Changsha produce beautiful boxes and other articles made of
this useful plant. At the bazaar on White Horse Lane all
articles of local manufacture are exhibited for sale. Many
flrecrackers are manufactured in Changsha, Siangtan and
178
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
neighboring towns, most of those used in the United States
coming from here.
A railway line now under foreign management is in
operation with daily through trains between Changsha and
the Ping-hsiang collieries. The portion of the line between
Changsha and Chuchow will be made a part of the trunk line
from Canton to Hankow.
Graduates and students of Yale University have estab-
lished in Changsha ‘*Yale in China.” The purpose of this
institution is to provide for Chinese students in their own
country as thorough an education under Christian influence as
they could get by going abroad. The immediate aims include
a college of arts and sciences and a medical school.
Missions: Wesleyan Methodist; Uiibcnzell (with
school for the blind) and others.
Hunan Province.— The picturesque mountainous pro-
vince of Hunan is sometimes described by the liunanese
as containing three-tenths mountain, six-tenths water and
one-tenth plain, but a more accurate estimate would be six-
tenths mountain, one-tenth water and tlircc-tcnths plain. Its
area is 8.i,0U0 square miles and its population 22 millions.
One of the most intereisting geographical features of the
province is Tungting Lake which covers about 4200
square miles in the high water of summer, when the water
sometimes rises thirty or forty feet above winter level.
In the winter it dwindles to a mumber of mud flats between
which run the channels of rivers. It abounds in wild fowl.
In recent years large areas on the north side of the lake
have been reclaimed for cultivation, most notably the whole
region now composing Nan Ting Chou. Various projects
have been discussed for dredging part of the lake, making it
lit for navigation, and reclaiming still other parts for cultiva-
tion. However, it has been found that floo Js have been more
disastrous since the building of the great dikes reclaiming
land, and very serious questions are involved in this project.
In addition to Changsha other important cities of the
province are: Ch’angteh, west of the Tungting Lake, tlie
leading trading center; Siangtan, south of Changsha, a great
HUNAN PROVINCE
179
transshipment center; and Yochow, celebrated for its cloth
manufactures.
Ycchow is the strategic military center of Hunan and at
the time of the temporary independence of the province, in
the summer of 1913, Hunan troops were sent to Yochow from
the South and at the same time Northern troops were also
sent to this place.
Hunan is- noted for its rice production, the region around
the Tungting Lake and the plains bordering and extending
back from Siangtan leading in this crop.
It is also in this region that tlie most famous tea of the
province is grown. Green leaf for the imperial family was
produced for centuries on Chunshan Island near Yochow
Changsha is an important center for the production of anti-
mony in which China leads the world, exporting large quan-
tities annually to France, Germany, Holland and the United
States. The ore is brought to Changsha by boat from
numerous sections of the province. Coal is mined for use at
the iron works and river ports. Gold, lead, zinc, tin, copper
and arsenic have been mined in small quantities.
Most of the lumber used in Central China and as far
down the river as Wuhu comes from Hunan province. Large
areas are still under forests in the south and west. Great
rafts representing hundreds of thousands of taels in value
are constantly being floated down the Yuan River from
Western Hunan across Tungting Lake to the Yangtsze
River. The annual exports amount to about Tls. 10,000,000, the
greater part of this consisting of fire wood. Oil is also one
of the most valuable exports from Hunan. The International
Export Company maintains a pork-raising farm between
Changsha and Siangtan from which many tons of fine
rice-fed pork, as fine as any in the world, are exported every
year.
In ancient times the territory which is now included in
Hunan formed a part of the '‘Kingdom of the Three
Aboriginal Tribes.^' Members of these non-Chinese tribes
exist to the number of several thousands to-day, mostly in
the hills of the southern and western parts of the province.
18J
lIAMiliOOK FOR CHINA
The great Emperor Shun died while on an expedition
against these tribes and on Chunshan Island in Tungting
lake is tlie grave of his two wives, the daughters of Yao,
who were on their way to nurse him and committed suicide
hy throwing themselves into the lake when they received
news of his death.
During the Taiping Rebellion, when the rebels had
driven out most of the civil authorities in the 'province, the
Hunancse gentry came to the aid of the Governor, assisting
him in organizing military expeditions which restored the
machinery of government. The men who drove out the Tai-
pings followed up their success to lasting advantage. The
great Tseng Kuo Fan, a na.tive of Changsha, was the leader
in these military operations and it was uiuler him with the
assistance of General “Chinese” Gordon that the Taiping
Rebellion was finally put down. The Ilunanese gentry
never till the end of the Manchii rule relinquished the ad-
vantage they gained through this. Government officials in
Hunan always acted with the committee of the gentry, which
was usully more powerful than the officials themselves.
There are many mountain peaks in Hunan, the Nan Yo
or Hengsheng Mountain being the most famous. The Nan
Yo is one of China’s sacred mountains ; it rises to a height of
4500 ft. Its sides are covered with temples and well wooded
and it is a place of regular and crowded pilgrimage,
The Yangtsze Gorges. — At Ichang, the famous Yangtsze
gorges begin and a trip through them is well worth the time
and expense. Ichang, 1000 miles from the sea, is only 130
feet above sea level, but Chungking, 400 miles farther inland
is 630 feet above. This drop of 500 feet in a distance of 400
miles is accomplished through a scries of gorges unsurpassed
for their beauty and grandeur. The most famous of the
gorges are between Ichang and Kweifu, a distance of 140
miles.
Passage through this part of the Yangtsze, where the
great river has cut a channel for itself through deep mountain
passes, would appear to be impossible. But it is the only
means of transport for the great province of Szechuan, which
THE YANGTSZE GOROKS
181
has a population as large as that of the United States, and
millions of dollars’ worth of cargo are hauled over the rapids
each year. This is accomplished by means of trackers, who
pull the boats along against the swift current with long bam-
boo roper, the coolies climbing over the rocks alongside, or
using steps, which were cut into the sides of the cliffs centuries
ago. In 1898 a small steamboat was constructed by private
enterprise for this perilous voyage and now regular trips are
run between Ichang and Chungking, except during the low-
water period. Mrs. J. F. Bishop, who made this trip in a
houseboat about 1895 writes of it as follows in The Yangtsse
Valley and Beyond:
‘'VVe were then in what looked like a mountain lake.
No outlet was visible ; mountains rose clear and grim against
a dull grey sky. Snowflakes fell sparsely and gently in a per-
fectly still atmosphere. We cast off from the shore ; the oars
were plied to a wild chorus ; what looked like a cleft in the
rock appeared and making an abrupt turn round a high rocky
point in all the thrill of novelty and expectation, we were in
the Ichang gorge, the first and one of the grandest of those
gigantic clefts through which the Great River, at times a mile
in breadth, there compressed into a limit of from 400 to 150
yards, has carved a passage through the mountains.
"The change from a lakc-like stretch, with its liglit and
movement, to a dark and narrow^ gorge black with the shadows
of nearly perpendicular limestone cliffs broken up into but-
tresses and fantastic towers of curiously splintered and
weathered rock, culminating in the Pillar of Heaven, a
limestone pinnacle rising sheer from the water to a height
of 1800 feet, is so rapid as to bewilder the senses. The
expression ‘lost in admiration’ is a literally correct one. :
"With a strong fair wind our sail was set; the creak and
swish of the oars was exchanged for the low music of the
river as it parted under our prow; and the deep water (from
fifty to a hundred feet), of a striking bottle-green color, was
unbroken by a swirl or ripple, and slid past in a grand, full
volume. The stillness was profound, enlivened only as some
big junk with lowered mast glided past us at great speed, the
182
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
fifty or sixty men at the sweeps raising a wild chant in keep-
ing with the scene. Scuds of snow, wild, white clouds
whirling round pinnacles and desolate snow-clothed moun-
tains, apparently blocking further progress, added to the
enchantment. Crevices in the rock were full of maidenhair
fern, and on many a narrow ledge clustered in profusion a
delicate mauve primula unabashed by the grandeur and the
gloom. Streams tumbled over ledges at heights of 100 feet.
There are cliffs of extraordinary honeycombed rock possibly
the remains of ‘potholes ’ of ages since, rock carved by the
action of water and weather into shrines with pillared fronts,
grottoes with quaint embellishments — gigantic old women
gossiping together in big hats — colossal abutments, huge rock
needles after the manner of Quiraing, while groups of stalac-
tites constantly occur as straight and as thick as small pines
supporting rock canopies festooned witli maidenhair. Higher
yet, surmounting rock ramparts 2000 feet high, are irregular
battlemented walls of rock, perhaps twenty feet thick, and
everywhere above and around are lofty summits sprinkled
with pines, on which the snow lay in powder only, and ‘the
snow clouds rolling low’ added to the sublimity of the
scenery.
“It was always changing, too. If it were possible to be
surfeited with turrets, battlements, and cathedral spires, and
to weary of rock phantasies, the work of water, of solitudes
and silences, and of the majestic dark green flow of the Great
River, there were besides lateral clefts, each with its wellsided
torrent, with an occasional platform green with wheat, on
which a brown roofed village nestled among fruit trees, or a
mountain, bisected by a chasm, looking ready to fall into
the river, as some have already done, breaking up into piles
of huge angular boulders over which even the goat-footed
trackers cannot climb. Then, wherever the cliffs are less
al^olutely perpendicular, there are minute platforms partially
sustaining houses with their backs burrowing into the rock,
and their fronts extended on beams fixed in the cliff, accessible
only by bolts driven into the rock, where the small children
are tied to posts to prevent them falling over, and abovc»
the Y \NGTS2E cities
183
below, and around these dwellings are patches of careful
culture, some of t lem not larger than a bath towel, to which
the cultivators luwer themselves with ropes, and there are
small openings occasionally, where deep-eaved houses cluster
on the flat tops of rocky spurs amoiig the exquisite plumage
of groves of the golden and green bamboo, among oranges
and pumeloes with their shining greenery, and straight
stemmed palms with their great fanlike leaves.”
A journey of three or four days above Ichang would
take the traveler througii Ichang Gorge, twenty miles in
length, and well worth seeing. The journeys may be ex-
tended almost indefinitely, and may be made a part of an
interesting trip through Szechuan, to the borders of Tibet.
The following tabic of time required for journeys from Ichang
has been prepared by the Shanghai office of Messrs. T. Cook
and Son. who undertake arrangements for these trips : —
To Tatung Rapid-2 days : return 1 day, total 3 days
Tungl intan
2^ „
-
3'A
Chentan
3 „
,, 3;4
Yet an ,
4 „
, 2 „
„ 6
Kweifu City ,
, « ..
, 4 „
12
Wanshien ,
, 12
* 1* »>
18
Chungking ,
. 22 „
. 10 „
32
The times given vary, depending not only on the state
of the river and the wind, but also a great deal on the
desires of the boat crews to make a quick or a leisurely trip.
Specially built river steamers now operate frequently
between Ichang and Chungking performing the double jour-
ney in about a week. Return fare, 1st class, $200.
Several kinds of boats are available for the trip above
Ichang. Large sampans, without sleeping accomodations,
for a one-day trip, are $3 a day. Wnpans, without toikt
accommodations, are $5 a day. Two-roomed houseboats are
15, and three-roomed houseboats or kwadsas, $7 a day. The
latter are the most comfortable and practically the only boats
in which it is possible to make long journeys.
References for further reading: ‘'The Gorges of the
YangtszeT h\ A. Little; “The Yangtsse Valley and Beyond^’
by Mrs. J.F. Bishop. “A Glimpse Through the Gorges of
the Great Yangtsse/* by Captain Plant.
lo4
HANDBOOK ^OR CHINA
Ichang.-^Ichang is the present terminus of a railway
line projected to connect this port with Chungking, and
tlic Irouhles which arose over the construction of the line
arc credited with starting the revolution of 1911. In order
to prevent llie construction of the proposed railway by
foreign capital, a local company had been formed and about
£2,000.000 raised. Of this amount less than one-third had
been voluntarily subscribed. By the terms of the Hukuang
loan agreement, signed in May, 1911, the Chinese government
agreed to take over the shares in this line. Violent opposi-
tion to this plan arose, and the disturbance in Chengtu pre-
cipitated the revolution. When the revolution halted work
on this line, sixteen miles of track had been laid and prelimi-
nary work completed for sixty miles. It is estimated that
the construction of the line, which passes through an exceed-
ingly mountainous country will take from 10 to 15 years,
^fissions. The American Kpiscopal church, the Swedish,
the Church of Scotland, and the China Inland.
Chungking. — Chungking occupies the end of a bold and
rocky bluff at the confluence of the Kialing and Yangtsze
rivers some 1400 miles from the sea. It is surrounded by a
stone wall five miles in circumference built in 1761. To-
gether with Kiangpeh, a walled town on the opposite bank of
the Rialing, it boasts of a population of 500,000. It is the
most inland treaty port on the Yangtsze. As Chengtu is
the political and literary center of Szechuan, so Chungking
is its commercial cnirepot. British, French, American
and Japanese gunboats usually lie at anchor here for the
protection of trade and their respective national interests.
Half surrounded by a range of hills over 1000 feet in height,
live situation of the city is one of great beauty. Its drawback
lies in the moisture of its climate in summer. Like Wan-
hsien, it forms a terminus for Chengtu, 10 stages distant.
From Chungking also the traveler leaves the river for the
overland journey to the Province of Kweichow.
Chungking is a center of operations for several mission-
ary societies; the Friends (British), Canadian Methodist,
American Alclhodist, China Inland, etc.
CHENGTU
185
Chengtu.— It is only through the Yangtsze gorges or by
a more tiresome trip through the narrow passes of the moun-
tains separating the province of Hupeh fnom Szechuen that it
is possible to reach Chengtu from the Yangtsze Valley. This
city is the capital of the province of Szechuan and one of the
oldest and most important cities in China. It was once the
capital of the independent Kingdom of Shuh. Its inhal)itants
number nearly half a million. It is situated in the center of
the famous Chengtu Plain, 120 miles by 40, the population
of which is estimated to l)e 1200 to the square mile. The soil
is rich, the climate mild, and the e.KCcllent system of irriga-
tion devised more than 2000 years ago by Li Ping, China’s
great irrigation engineer, insures water at all periods of the
rice season. O'he farms of the plain arc valuable, and are
so intensely cultivated, that they resemble small garden
patches rather than farms. It is possible to raise a winter as
well as a summer crop and four seasons of garden vegetables.
Famine has been unknown for two millcniinns.
The city is unique as being without a pagoda. It is
.surrounded by a massive wall nine miles in length and over
40 feet broad, which being splendidly paved forms a favorite
promenade for the citizens. The citadel and enclosed place
of residence of the ancient ICmperors still exists dating from
A. D. 221-265.
Ill few other places in China can such a contrast in
architecture be seen, for while the Chinese who live there cling
to the standards (jf South and Central China, the Manchus as
persistently duplicate the old styles of Manchuria and as a
result types both of Peking and Canton can be seen. The
population of Szechuan province and of Chengtu is compara-
tively modern. The independent Szechuanese refused to ac-
cept the rule of the Manchus and it was necessary for the
Manchu troops almost to depopulate the province before the
anti-dynastic rebellions were put down. The invading Man-
chus liked the country so well that they remained as per-
manent residents. Little remained of the ancient Szechuan
population and the rich province w^as filled up with immigrants
from South and Central China. These sturdy settlers have
186
HANDBOOK m CHINA
produced a race as independent as the more ancient Szc-
chuanese as evidenced by the fact that one of the first outbreaks
which heralded the revolution of 1911 was in Szechuan.
The streets of Chengtu are noted throughout China for
their width and cleanliness, all being paved by wide stone
slabs and well policed. On the principal Great East Street
are many silk stores. Szechuan is one of the most important
silk provinces of China and is famed for the excellent weave
of its various silks and satins. Its export of this commodity
continues to grow.
A large number of Moslems are found on the Chengtu
plain. They have lived in China for many generations and
are nearly indistinguishable from the native Chinese, but still
persist in regarding themselves as foreigners. They are the
cattle merchants and butchers of Chengtu and its neighbor-
hood. Chengtu is (juite a missionary center. Six missions
arc represented and two Bible societies with nearly 70 mis-
sionaries. Two magnificent hospitals have been erected and
another is in process of being built. A Christian Union
University has been established in the south suburb.
To the south of Chengtu on the banks of the Min river
are found many rock-cut tombs. They contain stone and
burnt-clay coffins together with fragments of grave goods be-
longing to the times of the Han dynasties and the period of
the Three Kingdoms (B. C. 206 — A. D. 265). The en-
trances to them are occasionally finely carved, They vary
much in size but the larger ones measure from 40 to 100 feet
deep and feet high, with an equal breadth. In the sides
are niches for the placing of coffins and the hades images
and articles.
The 260 miles from Chungking to Chengtu is usually
traversed by sedan chairs, the traveler stopping at native
inns along the road. The time occupied is ten days. Chairs
with bearers can be hired at $i per day and coolies at 40 cents
per day for the trip. Inns cost 12 to 25 cents per night for
the best room. The road between Chengtu and Chungking
passes through the densely populated heart of Szechuan
Province, touching eight walled cities. The return journey to
SZECHUAN PROVINCE
137
Chungking can be made by boat, (see page 184). The traveler
an delay at Kiatingfu to visit Mount Omi, 30 miles distant,
the famous Buddhist mountain, nearly 11,000 feet high. A
,tone path runs all the way to the top, where, on a clear day,
,ai excellent view can be had of the snow-topped mountains
'>f Tibet. Lodging can be secured at the many temples by
the wayside.
Visitors to Mount Omi are often able to see the strange
apparition which made Omi famous as far away as India,
riiis consists of a rainbow floating in space one to three thou-
sand feet below the precipice, and, in the center, what appears
■0 be a colossal human figure. The rainbow is formed by
^hc sun and the mists while the figure is tlie shadow of the
observer. In the time when Buddhism exerted a stronger
influence than at present, this phenomenon excited such awe
that many devotees threw themselves from the cliff, expecting
to be caught in the arms of Buddha. Among the many
temples on the mountain, those most worthy a visit are : Ta-
vvu-su, Chiu-lau-tung (famous for its caves), Kinting (on the
summit) and Wan-yan*su.
Szechuan Province.— The area of the province of Sze-
cliuan is 218,480 square miles and its population is about 75
millions ; its name, “four streams," is derived from the faetthat
four rivers, the Kialing, Ching, Min and Yulong flow through
the province into the Yangtsze. Szechuan is peculiarly isolat-
ed from the other parts of China, for it not only lies in the
remote western part of tlie country, bordering on Tibet, but
its mountainous boundaries make communication difficult,
even with the provinces immediately adjoining it. The hills
rise to great heights on the Kweichow boundary and the
northeast corner, bo’'dering on Hupeh is wild mountain land.
The gorges here are almost inaccessible but are said to be
finer than those on the Yangtsze. The fact that the
province is so densely populated testifies highly to the agree-
ableness of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and the
efficiency of the ancient system of irrigation. The most im-
portant parts of the province are (1) the ‘'Red Basin," in
which lies the plain of Chengtu and many small valleys, all
188
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
of them about 1000 feet above the sea level; (2) the famous
salt-well region lying in the triangle between the cities of
Kiatingfu, I'lihsuenhsieh and Imikianghsien ; and (3) the
country around Chungking. All of the valleys and even the
hills are intensely cultivated, the province being “dotted
witli farmhouses, hamlets, villages, and market towns, main
of them larger and more important than ‘cities' in other parts
of China.’’ The whole of the province has a climate peculiar
to itself. There is rarely any frost or snow in winter and the
average maximum summer heat is 92^. Eastern Szechuan is
often cloudy in winter but in Western Szechuan it is not un-
common to have long spells of the brightest sunshine in
December and January. Two harvests are reaped in the
year, the first of wheat, pulse and rape seed in April and ]May
and the second in August and September of rice, maize,
potatoes, etc. The high mountainous region of the west,
bordering on Eastern Tibet, is the paradise of the botanist,
the ethnologist and the sportsman. Traveling in Szechuan
in spring and autumn is a pleasure no visitor ever forgets.
The climate is ideal, the scenery unsurpassed for beauty, food
is always plentiful, coolie hire is not expensive and the people
if treated rightly always show the utmost friendliness.
In the southwest of the Szechuan Alps, an independent
race inhabits the uplands adjoining the Kicnch’ang Valley.
They call themselves No-su, but the Chinese nickname them
Mautsze (barbarians) or Lolos, also written Laolao, and
Liaoliao (wild hunters). In the northwest arc several tribes
of aborigines of different origin. One of them shows a pure-
ly Aryan cast of feature. By the Chinese they are generally
classed as the Sifan tribes. They more or less recognize the
supremacy of China. In the west at Tatsienlu the Tibetans
and Chinese live side by side, but on the further side of the
Yalung river the Tibetans are frequently in revolt against
Chinese authority.
The Cliincse race is predominant throughout the rest of
Szechuan, but their features vary somewhat; and some, espe-
cially ill regions near to the w'cstern mountains, are of mixed
blood. “These varieties result from the position occupied
TATSIUNLU
189'
Szechuan, it being the limit and border land where widely
.crent races come into contact with each other. Revolu-
i ns have also largely modified the population of the country.
n.ong those upheavals, we must mention the great massacre
^:ichtook place there at tlie close of the Ming dynasty.
I : rce-fourths of the inhabitants arc said to have been ex-
cniinated. To repeopic the province, a large number of
ir nigrants flowed in towards the middle of the 17th century.
[ races of this immigration are still met with at Chungking,
\!k‘re the local Council of the Gentry is called I’asheng
T:ie 8 provinces), alluding thereby to the eight provinces to
liich the members of the Assembly originally belonged. The
'redominating element of the population is said to have
.striking resemblance to the aborigines of Yunnan, the
\achyns (Burmese ‘wild men’) who inhabit the Burma-
.'liincse frontier, and whose principal characteristics arc: a
n'angular face, large, obliquely-set eyes, light hair, and cx-
rt'inely short stature (4 ft. 8 to 5 feet). In the cast, a portion
tlic population is made up of families that came from
!unan.
“'I'lie people of Szechuan arc shre\vd, active, quarrcl-
iiic, but nevertheless very polite. They are also hospitable,
nid migrate easily from their homes, being found in Kansu,
Shensi, Kweichow, and even upon tlie lofty table lands of
funn?n.”* As Chinese they rank much above the average
11 intelligence and in wealth. They are free in their habits,
Il lustrious and as a rule naturally kind to foreigners.
Tatsienlu.— Tatsienlu, 8349 feet above sea level, is an
>cecdingly interc^iting little city betwceen Szechuan proper
I'ul Eastern Tibet. It is situated in a narrow valley amidst
'.’st mountains through which runs the main road from
dhcngtii to Lhassa. The former is 12 stages or 267 miles
li:>tant, the latter 66 stages or 1506 miles. Official estimates
?ive the population of the place as 700 Tibetan and 400
fliinese families, but besides it has a numerous floating
^"pulation of merchants, soldiers and visitors.
Riciiai d’s * Comprehensive Geography of Chinas
190
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Being at once a Tibetan and a Chinese capital, as a o
a commercial and a missionary center, travelers to \V t
China, if they have time at all. generally make it a point *o
visit Tatsienlii. Here the deposed King of Chala has ! s
town residence and a country seat 9 miles distant at V i-
ling-kong. Here are administered the Chinese affairs of t ,e
whole of Kastern Tibet and here come long caravans d
merchandise from the interior returning with tea, cotton, a: d
metal goods. Though only at the threshold of Tibet,
Tibetans come and go in such numbers that they can ! e
seen here in all their quaint, free, happy ruggedness f
character. Eight lamasaries are to be found in or near tho
city. Prayer flags fly from the houses, large prayer whci Is
are driven by water power on the banks of the streams, cair i-;
of sacred inscribed stones rise from the wayside. On ail
sides are the snow-topped mountains. A day or two to li;.*
west the snow line on the highway can be reached at a pa^-s
13,923 feet high. Bear, leopard, wild cow, wild sheep an I
goat, deer, pheasant, pigeon, etc. can be shot in the neit;’i-
borhood. The country is one of mountain, forest, tableland
and rushing river; grand, free, bracing, fascinating, the fitting
home of its hardy sons and famous dogs.
From Chengtu to Tatsienlu the traveler can ride a poav
or hire a sedan chair while coolies carry his luggage, ’’0
catties per man. Each coolie costs 50 to 60 cents per di:\.
From Tatsienlu westward all luggage is transported on tiic
backs of pack animals. These are provided by the Tibet n
system of “ Ula,” the hire of each animal being about nO
cents for one day.
From Tatsienlu two roads run westwards into Tib t,
called the North and South roads. The first is the busim s
route, and proceeds by way of Dawo, Kantsze and Derge ; f e
second is the official route and proceeds by way of Hok-
(where French engineers have erected a steel bridge o\
the Yalung river), Litang, Lamaya, Batang, Kiangka a: 1
Chiamdo. At Chiamdo the Chinese postal service has • s
most western post office.
On the official route the distances are as follow :
tatsi^nlu
191
itsienlu to Hokow, 120 English miles ; Hokow to Litang,
; Mniles ; Litang to Lamaya, 46 miles; Lamaya to Batang,
17 miles; Batang to Kiangka, 120 miles; Kiangka to
i .iiamdo, 274 miles. A stage or day’s journey may be
1 ughly reckoned at 18 to 25 miles. The full distance from
i iiengtu to Lhassa is 1646 miles.
From Batang a road runs to Derge ; the traveler can thus,
V. lien the political situation is quiet, proceed by the north
r -ad and return by the south or vice versa. Southward from
b itang an important road leads to Yunnan, from which the
r ute can be followed on into Burmah. According to the
Iv. v. A. J. Clements of Batang the distance between Batang
and Talifu in Yunnan is about 600 miles or 31 stages;
batang to Yentsing, 6 stages ; Yentsing to Atensze, 7 stages;
Aiensze to Talifu, 18 stages.
Between Tatsienlu and Ningyuanfu a road can be pursued
which also leads into Yunnan and Burmah. The chief in-
trrest of this is that it passes through the Nosu or Lolc^country.
The Lolos, are a race of aboriginals whom the Chinese have
failed to subdue. Driven out of the Kienchang or Ningyuan*
fa valley they have maintained their independence in the
mountains. From Tatsienlu to Fu-lin it is 4 stages; from
l u-lin to Yue-shi-hsien, 4 stages; from Yue-shi-hsien to Ning-
uianfu, 4 stages, twelve iw all. Mode of travel : sedan chair,
horses, coolies. From Ningyuanfu to Hui-li-chow, 5 stages,
irom Hui-li-chow to Yunnanfu, 12 stages.
There is another road from Ningyuanfu to Yunnan which
i - chosen by those who wish to go to Talifu. Ningyuanfu to
^'enyuenhsien, 5 stages; Yenyuenhsien to Talifu, 12 stages.
British, American, Norwegian and French missionaries
.:re at work in Tatsienlu and Eastern Tibet. In the summer
t.me they take long journeys into the interior, carrying the
f ospel and civilization to this upland pastoral people. When
idiina and Tibet manage to define their respective areas and
the present unrest dies down a new era of progress is con*
t dently expected to set in when the whole of this vast country
1 etween Tatsienlu and the Yangtsze will be fully open to the
t'-aveler, the merchant and the missionary.
192
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
Hankow to Pelclngr. — Hankow is connected with t’
capital l)y the Peking-Hankow, or Ching-Han Railway, 7m
miles Fare, first class, $65.40; second class $43.60. \
through “ de luxe” train on wdiich these fares apply mak.:^
the round trip each week, the journey one way occupy in. i
30 hours.
Important points on the line are:
MiUsfr<^m Miles from
Hankow Peking
0 Hankow or Han k*eou* (seepage 192) 753
109 Cross Mu Ling mountain by a tunnel 644
1115 feet long, leaving the basin of
the Yangtsze for that of the Yellow
River. The country between Hankow
and the Yellow River was formerly
divided between the three kingdoms
of Chu, Chin and Wei and this is the
scene of many stirring adventures of
^ that period.
112 Hsin-tien or Sin^tien, Two miles e. st 641
at an altitude of 1980 feet is Chi-kung-
shaii, a summer resort frequented by
foreigners from Hankow.
236 Yen-cheng Hsicii or Yen Vcheng 517
Sien. Cross the Sha Ho, a tributary of
the Yellow River.
295 Hsm-chens }lsicn or Sin T’chcug Sien, 458
a very old town which was captured by
the state of Cheng (806-375 B. C.).
323 Chengchow or Tcheng Tcheou, Rail- 430
way connections to Honan fu and to
Kaifeng. Cross Yellow River.
590 Chengting-fu or Tcheng Ting Fou 163
Branch line to Tai Yuan-fu (see page
241).
• The French spelling of Chinese names is used on this railway.
Both the official and the French spellings are here given, the French
italics.
KAIl'ENG
193
^63 Pao-ting"fu (see page 241). 90
701 Kao-pei-tien. A branch line 25 miles 52
long leads to the Western Tombs (see
page 2:2).
722 Liou-li-ho. Sixteen miles distant are 31
the famous grottoes, Yiian-shui Tung.
733 lyeang-hsiang Hsien. Ten miles dis- 20
tant are the burial places of the ten
mouarchs who ruled China from 1115
to 1234. The tombs are in ruins.
753 Peking (see page 199.) 0
Kaifeng.* — The 40 miles by railway from Chengchow to
Kaifeng is traversed in 2^/^ hours, bringing the traveler to
Kaifeng (population 230,000), capital of Honan province,
this city has been the capital of the country on several
occasions. The northern Sung dynasty reigned here when
file place was known as Pieu-liang, from 960 to 1129.
(t was also the eastern capital of tlie Mongols and has been a
renter of great wealth. “At one siege Kuan Li-pit demanded
an indemnity of five million ounces of gold, ten thousand
horses and as many oxen. While this enormous exaction
shov/s the wealth of the capital, the fact that it was paid ex-
plains the rapid decline afterwards and the one reason why it
was abandoned in favor of Nanking."
Osving to its central location it has been the scene of
many fierce battles. Under the Mings Kaifeng was destroyed
hy robbers and floods, but rebuilt. The city was captured in
’642 by the rebel-brigand Li Tze-cheng, whose later victories
at Sianfu and Peking led to the overthrow of the Ming
dynasty and the establishment of the Manchus as the rulers of
China. The city at that time withstood a long siege, but was
at length subdued when the rebels cut the embankments of
the Yellow River thereby flooding the town. One hundred
thousand people perished. Later there were many disastrous
fires which seriously affected the importance of the city. The
population is now small and except fora few ancient temples,
• TiavcUrs to KaifciiR must have Chinese passoprts.
194
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
the city has few places of interest. One of the
pagodas of China is the “Iron Pagoda” of Kaifeng, buii.
largely of glazed tiles and porcelain. It is one of the fcv
remaining: of this style of construction. The old thron
room of the Sungs can also be seen.
Kaifeng is noted as the location of a Jewish coloin ,
which has attracted a great deal of attention from students oi
history. It is known that the Jews settled in China durin;,
the Han dynasty, and “ it is supposed that the settlement tool-
place soon after A.D. 34, at which time a terrible persecution
of the Jews took place in Babylon. No less than 50,00()
were then massacred. Others hold that the settlement tool
place 35 year later, after the fall of Jerusalem. It is quite
possible that the Jewish colony in China may be of even
older date— Is. 49: 12 ‘And these from the land of Sinim.’ '
When the great Jesuit missionary, ^latteo Ricci, was in
Peking, he was visited by one of the Kaifeng Jews, who wa^
familiar with the tenets of his religion and told of a large
congregation of Jews with a synagogue in Hangchow, as we-
as large Jewish populations in other provinces. Other Jesuits
at later dates made copies of inscriptions on stone tablets ar
Kaifeng, giving isolated details of the history of the colony,
and also translated some of the inscriptions found in tlit
synagogue.
From these inscriptions as well as from the writings of
Jesuits and of Marco Polo, it is evident that the Jewish colon}
at Kaifeng was at one time large and important and able tn
support a fine synagogue. As late as the first part of the
eighteenth century the colony was still vigorous and the mem
bers distinguishable from their neighbors by their Hebrai*
features. In the flood of 1642 many of the Hebrew manu-
scripts were destroyed and the fragmentary records of tlu^
colony tell a pathetic story of the efforts to repair and revis •
the damaged sacred papers which remained. The syna
gogue was rebuilt, apparently for the last time, in 1653.
Two centuries later when the Jews of Europe began to be in-
terested in the colony it was rapidly declining. A letter wa'i
sent to the Kaifeng Jews, and a reply received in 1870 told a
HONAN PROVINCE
195
patlKtic story of the colony’s plight. The teachers were all
(lead and no one remained who could read Hebrew, a know-
ledge they had preserved for almost two thousand years, while
isolated from all others of their race. “ Daily with tears in
our eyes we call on the Holy Name; if we could but again
procure ministers, and put our house of prayer in order, our
religion would have a hrm support.” At that time only
seven of the seventy Jewish clans remained, consisting of
about 200 persons. At present the Kaifeng Jews are indistin-
guishable from their Chinese neighbors, with whom they
have intermarried, though a few still persist in calling them-
selves Jews. Only in abstinence from pork do they exhibit
any knowledge of the beliefs of their religion.
Missions : Canadian Kpiscopal Church Mission. China
fnland, American Baptist.
Honan Province. — The area of Honan is 67,940 square
miles and its population 35 millions or an average of 520 per
square mile. With the exception of the mountainous western
parts, the whole of the province is a remarkably flat and fertile
plain, crossed by a number of rivers which connect principal
market places of the province with Chinkiang, Hankow and
Tientsin. Roads from principal centers cross the province
and unite at Honanfu. The central part of the plain is
buried in sand brought down from the Yellow River, but •the
remainder is fertile, "dotted over with cities, towns and
villages, and crossed in every direction with brown earth
roads, wide in the north and center, and narrow and paved in
the south, teeming with a hardy farming population.” The
province is probably the most treeless region of China, even
the bamboo being very scarce. In its absence the fences are
built of Kaoliang stalks. The houses are mostly built of mud
and stone. The climate of the province shows great
extremes, the winters being cold and bracing, with a temper-
ature which often drops below' zero, and summers with a
maximum temperature of 100®. There are extensive coal mines
in the province, successfully worked by primitive Chinese
methods. "The Honanese do not care for traveh
Their view of the world is limited by their own horizon.
196
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
The majority arc farmers, somewhat rude and uncouth in
manner, easily roused to anger, quick to take offense. They
are of an independent turn of mind and will not brook re-
proof ; very conservative, they do not welcome foreign inno-
vation. In certain districts the anti-forcign feeling runs high,
and the people w'ould rejoice if all ‘barbarians’ were ex-
pelled. In other districts they are very friendly, and welcome
the stranger in their midst Poverty and squalor pre-
vail; the people are indifferent to discomfort and dirt, and
apparently lack the enterprise necessary to ameliorate their
own condition. The cold of winter js met without any warm-
ing apparatus. They add warm clothing, but as their gar-
ments are rarely washed, their condition at the end of winter
can be better imagined than described. A common proverb
runs, *A Ilupeh man, unless he has cleansed his feet does not
sleep at night; a Honan man unless he fords a river never
washes his feet.’ Tliis principle runs through everything :
roads, houses, people, animals, all suffer from neglect.'’
Honan province has occupied an important place in the
history of the country, having been the seat of the government
more frecpiently than any other province. As early as 21S(*
B. C. Taikang was the capital of the Hsia dynasty, while
400 years later Kwcitchfu was the capital of the Shang dy-
nasty. Honanfu and Kaifcng have also served as the capital
on several occasions.
'Pen miles to the south of Honanfu is the famous moun
tain defile. Lung Men, decorated with many huge carvings,
which include statues of Buddha over 60 feet high. The
IvUng Men is an artificial river channel cut through a lime-
stone mountain, the work, according to tradition, being done
by Kmperor Yu, with the aid of a dragon. In the seventh
century hundreds of temples were quarried into the limestom-
sides of the defile, and thousands of images carved, chiefiy of
Buddha and his disciples. Hot springs in the neighborhood
add to the interest and fame of the region. To the south of
Honanfu is the sacred mountain of Sung Shan, 7000 feet high.
In the southeastern part of the province, in the district of
Kwangchow, is the Shwang-ho Shan, a mountain of consider-
CHENCnOW
197’
able interest as the inhabitants of the district believe it is the
dwelling place for the souls of the departed. Because of this
belief, they have gone to considerable expense to build hun-
dreds of rooms and dwelling places for the souls of friends
and relatives.
Honanfu. — Before the Chinese people moved far from
iheir cradle in the valley of the Yellow River, Honanfu was
an important city, well located in the rich valley of the Lo-
ho, and at the crossing of the two great high roads to Sianfu.
At present it is the western terminus of the Kaifeng-Honan
line, which connects at Chengchow with the reking-Hankow
line but is of small commercial importance. A Chinese
company was organized to construct a railway west from
Honanfu to Tungkuan, a distance of 160 miles, and thence to
Sianfu, but in 1914 only 70 miles of earthworks had been
completed and 30 miles of rails laid.
The city is of great historical interest, having served as
the capital of the country under four dynasties : Chow, 781 B.
C. ; Eastern Han, 25 A. D. ; Tsin. 280 A. D. ; and T’ang
904 A. D.
Chenchow. — Clienchow, which is not to be confused
with the near-by city of Chengchow,* is one of the oldest, if
not the oldest city in China. According to the annals it was
in existence as long ago as vlOOO B. C. when it was the resi-
dence of ITi Hsi, the legendary first ruler of China, who is
supposed to be buried at the place. Shen Nung, the “ Divine
Plowman,” also lived here. The burial i)lacc of Fu Hsi is at
a temple about a mile from the city, where several hundred
thousand come each spring when the festival in his honor is
celebrated. According to Chinese mythology, Fu Hsi ])cgan
all things. ‘‘ He discovered the use of salt, under the in-
llueiice of which men. lost the gills and hair with which their
bodies had previously been furnished. He taught them how
to hunt and how to fish, how to split wood for firing and
therewith to cook what they took iii the chase and from the
streams. He taught them the care of flocks and herdsr too,.
Spelled Tcheng Ttheou on the railway time*tablei
198
HANDEOOi; FOR CHINA
and how to twist silken threads and produce harmonious
sounds therefrom. He found family life matriarchal; he in-
stituted marriage and so produced the patriarchal type which
has nowhere persisted so strongly as imChiiia. Men in those
days kept their records by means of knotted cords, similar
probably to those Cortez found in use in Mexico. Fu Hsi
superseded them by written characters and introduced a
calendar.” At the tomb in Chenchow there is a circular
raised platform, on which the signs of the Pa-kua are in-
scribed in stone. In the center is placed the Long-ma, or
dragon horse on which has been marked the sign of the ele-*
mental principles according to Chinese theory— the T'ai-ki-
t’u. The dragon horse is supposed to have emerged from the
Yellow River at the command of Fleaven, to aid Fu Hsi in
his task of civilizing the earth; the figure of the l”ai-ki was
found on its back, and from it Fu Hsi deciphered the Chinese
system of written characters. According to Chinese history
Fu Hsi lived about the time of the Hood, and some Europeans
tliink that probably Noah is really the character referred to.
However that may be, a very interesting and curious thing
about these diagrams is that they represent father, mother,
three sons and three daughters, thus exactly coinciding with
the number and relationship of the family of Noah.
PEKING
EKING is located on a flat plain, eighty
miles west of Tientsin, with which it is
connected by a double-track railway. It
is also connected with Hankow by rail
and through the Peking-Moukden,
Tientsin-Pukow and Shanghai-Nanking
railways with Shanghai. The Peking-
• Moukden line (in normal limes) makes
connections with the Trans-Siberian
route. Population, 700,000.
Arrival: Passengers from the south
s/ft’ji Nung 'Ian. gyer the Peking-Hankow railway arrive
at the station inside the Chinese city
.nil just south of the Tartar city wall, within a few minutes'
iirsha ride of the T.c.gation Quarter and the hotels,
i assengers from '^I'ientsin arrive at the station of the.
'.uvernment Railway of North China (Peking-Moukden
i-)Ute) , a short distance east of the Peking-Hankow railway
.*>'ation and equally near the legations and hotels.
Hotels: Grand Hotel de Pekin, (motor bus meets
I rains,) Grand Hotel des Wagon Pits, Astor, Palace.
i’ost-oificcs : In addition to the Chinese post-oOice, postal
..'-^encies are maintained by Prance, Japan and Russia.
Telegraphs and Cables: Kastern-Rxtension, Australasia
.'iud China Telegraph Co., Ltd.; Great Northern Telcgrapli
Co., Ltd.; and Chinese Telegraphs. The rates abroad are
:)OUt the same as from Sbangliai.
Transportation: Carriages, $6 per half day, $10 per
ay ; rieshas, first class, with two coolies, cts. per hour,
sC per day ; one coolie, 20 cts. per hour; mule cart, ,'10 cts. per
anir ; motor cars, morning, $10 to $la, afternoon, $15 to $25;
. ictorias, 50 cts. to $1 per hour; guides, inside city $2 per
;ay, outside city, $2.50 per day.
Churches and Missions: American Mission, London
Mission, American Hoard, American Presbyterian, Methodist
■piscopal, Anglican, St. Saviour’s Cathedral, St. Michael,
Russian Church, Union Church, Y. M. C. A., etc.
203
HANDCOOK FOR CHINA
Legations: American, Belgian, Britisli, French, Italian
Japanese, Mexican, Netherlands, Portueiiese, Russian, anc'
Spanish. All the legations occupy substantial buildings in
the Legation Quarter and practically all of them maintaii
military guards.
With China a republic, Peking is no longer an imperial
city, but the change in the form of governmenf has not
detracted from its interest to the visitor. For nine hundred
years, under various names, it has been the capital of China,
with short intervals during which the capital was removed to
other places. During its centuries of imperial residence
the city has been beautified by the erection of nian>
buildings, temples and altars, most of them typifying the
barbaric splendor of the Tartar rulers of China. Foreign
influence and the establishment of the Republic have made
few changes in it and the city remains the same mysterious,
picturesque, interesting place it has been for centuries. But
the whole history of China is told by the l)ricks and stones
and plaster walls of Peking and here are mementos of
conquests and dynastic changes, and evidences of the influence
of Jesuits, Mohammedans and Persians. The changes which
have been brought about by modern influences and by the
change in the form of govcriimciit are trivial and superficial
With slight changes the Peking of the twentieth century
might well be the Peking of five centuries ago. The soul of
the city has remained unchanged and the dramas of intrigue
and treachery, cruelty and conquest are played to-day in a
setting of the Middle Ages.
. Located on a flat, sandy plain, and surrounded by high
walls, Peking from a distance looks much like a giant box
and the scarcity of habitations on the plain makes it difficult
for the approaching traveler to viziializc the busy life within
the w'alls. Nothing can be seen to indicate the presence of th<.'
many temples, pagodas and palaces inside for it is a city of
two story houses, few of which are as high as the Walls. The
city occupies the northern extremity of the great alluvial
delta which stretches to the south for 700 miles, broken oiil:
by rivers, gaiials and a few hills.
r-EKING
201
Peking is on the same parallel of latitude as Madrid.
The climate is dry and bracing, there rarely being any rain
(.etween October and April while there may be several feet
of ice in the rivers in January. The short period of hot
weather, lasting six to eight weeks, comes during July and
August. The thermometer climbs high and tlie heat is often
more annoying than in points farther south. The annual
range of temperature is from above to 10"^ below zero.
Jf one remains long in Peking he will not escape one
of the famous Peking dust storms. ‘‘ On some sunshiny
days it is noticed that the rays of the sun appear to he
less powerful than usual. Presently they are obscured.
No cloud is to be seen, but a dull haze of dark-brown hue
becomes more and more pervasive, until the dust settles
down quietly from above, or the wind which has arisen arrives
in swirls speedily enveloping everything, so that on tlie
worst occasions it may be necessary to light the lamps in the
middle of the day. No one knows whence the dust comes,
why it comes at some times and not at others, or why it
comes at all. Jt is simply an indisputable and an influential
fact. "
As long ago as 1200 B. C. a city was built on the present
site of Peking and later became the capital of the Kingdom
of Yen, which was overthrown by the Ch’in dynasty (222 B.
C.) and the city reduced in rank. It was taken in 986 by tlie
Kitan Tartars who established themselves there and called
the place Nanking (Southern Capital) to distinguish it from
their more northern scat. The Chinese again recaptured the
city in the early part of the 12th century, clianging the name
to Yen Chau-fu. A few years later the “Oolden” Tartars suc-
ceeded to the city, restored it to its former imperial rank, and
gave it the name of Chung-tu (Central Capital.) When
Ghengis Khan, the great Mongol leader, began his conquest
of China, one of the first places he captured was Chung-
tu, \vhich was occupied as the capital by his renowned
successor and grandson, Kublai Khan. In the latter part of
the thirteer' n century, he rebuilt the city, and gave it the
name of Is /.balik (City of the Kl.aii). It was under this
202
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
name, corrupted into Cambaliic, that the capital becam -
known to Kurope. vSome ruins of the mud walls of thi.
ancient city may be seen outside the An Ting Gate near th •
Bell Temple while the Bell Tower and Drum Tower are two
.surviving; monuments to the architectural pretensions o:
t!ic tdacc.
hnr a short time at the beginning of the Ming dynast
the capital of Cliina was located at Nanking, but the thir*.
Kmperor, ^hing-lo, removed to the northern city and in order
t(» distinguish it from the southern capital he had deserted
gave the place the name of Peking (Northern Capital), Tlu
location of the capital is an unhappy one. being far remove '
from tlie southern and most prosperous part of the countr\.
hut its selection was dictated by sound politics. The Chinese
Knipcrors found it necessary to make Peking the capital iu
order to keep watch on the restless Tartars and Mongok,
while the later Manchus naturally preferred it to any othei
location hccause of its proximity to their ancestral home i:
Manchuria. The repuldicans were anxious to remove the
capital to a more southern position but feared that tlu
removal would endanger the allegiance of Manchuria an !
Mongolia. A great many southern Chinese believe that tlu
capital will eventually be removed to Nanking or Wuchang
but to the average sou of Peking, this idea is absurd.
Peking is built in the form of an exaggerated Gotlii-
letter T, with the lines of the letter so thickened and the t"!'
so shortened that it re.semblcs a rectangular oblong. Th«
northern part is almost exactly square and is known as tlu-
Tartar City. This part of the city was restored by Yung-1<-
the walls l)cing completed in 1437. The walls are 50 fee:
high, 00 feet thick at the base and 40 feet thick at the top
They have been kept in a perfect state of repair although tlu
guard houses which surmount them are in a dilapidated con
dition and brush is allowed to grow on the top. The^ wall
arc faced on both sides with brick and filled in with dirt aiu*
mortar. After this city was built, the Chinese population use*'
the ruins and debris of the older city of Cambaluc on tin
south to build up a large suburb, A hundred year^ aftci
PEKING
203
the completion of the walls of the Tartar City the suburb
was enclosed in walls and has since been known as the
Chinese city. The wall around the Chinese city is 30 feet
high, 25 feet wide at the base and 15 feet at the top.
irquare buttresses are built on the walls at intervals of
oO feet, surmounted by guard houses. The two walls en-
close an area of about 20 square miles and are 30 miles in
circumference.
When the Manchiis captured Peking in 1644, the Tartar
City was taken over by them for residence. Here they
settled Manchu soldiers, together with the Chinese who
had aided them in their conquest, each of the eight Chinese
troop banners or divisions being assigned to certain
sections of the city. From that time until the overthrow
of the Manchu dynasty in 1912, these men and their
descendants existed on tribute rice sent to Peking by
the provinces. The original inhabitants were Chinese,
Mongols and Manchus, but it is now difficult to distinguish
the races, except for the Manchu women who are easily
recognized by their large distinctive head dress, and shoes
with high “heel" in the middle of the foot.
The Tartar City is intersected by six main thoroughfares,
three running north and south from the principal gates and
three running east and west. These streets are broad and
are kept in a fairly good state of repair. Unlike other Chin-
ese cities farther south, Peking has a great deal of wheel-
ed traffic— springlcss Peking carts drawn by mules — while
the city’s proximity to the sandy deserts of Mongolia is
shown by the presence of many double humped Bactrian
camels. The street life of Peking is fascinating and a visit
to the city would be well worth while even if one never
got behind the gates and walls and saw nothing except from
the seat of a riesha. Peking funerals are famous even in
China, the home of gorgeously panoplied funerals. In this
as in other things royalty set the fashion and lesser families
followed the impressive royal corteges as far as their purses
allowed. There are dozens of bands of musicians who get
the most unearthly sounds out of instruments unlike anything.
204
HANDBOOK tOR CHINA
an3'whcrc else. The hired mourners may run into the hundred^,
while the priests in their gaudy embroidered robes will
be numerous enough to staff a fair-sized temple. Tlu.
foreigner will be unable to tell whether the procession
he is Viewing is in celebration of a wedding or in observance
of a funeral until the latter part of the procession passer*
him and he is able to see whether it is a coffin or a
bridal chair being carried. The Peking carts will be
seen in many parts of North China but it is only in the
capital that one finds these vehicles in the apex of their
glory, with varnished sides* silver trimmed harness and silken
hangings. Formerly the color of the cart hangings as
well as the richness of the harness trappings w-ere severely
regulated as belonging to certain classes but there is more
laxity now and any one who wants to use a silver harness
buckle may do so. In the old days all officials traveled by
lacking cart, or sedan chairs, those being the only conveyances
of sufficient dignity, but to-day the automobile is the vehicle
preferred. Those owned by the tuchuns, or military chieftains,
travel at a terrific rate of speed, with sirens going at full
blast and usually with a couple of soldiers standing on the
footboards.
Leading from these main thoroughfares are smaller
streets, usually very crooked, which are known as hutungs.
A trip though any hutung will give the visitor no idea of
the really beautiful homes which arc hidden by the mud
or plaster walls. As in other parts of China the
magnificence of the home is always carefully concealed from
the street, and the finest residence may be hidden by the
meanest wall. These Peking residences usually cover a large
area and are valued more for the spaciousness of their
courtyards than for the buildings. Many foreigners have
rebuilt and refurnished these houses and made them
wonderfully attfuctivc.
Occupying the center of the Tartar City, and taking up
about two square miles, or one sixth of its total area, is the
Imperial City, surrounded by a wall 20 feet high. The four
«ntrances g;e tach pierced by a triple gateway, and, until
PEKING
205
he downfall of the Manchu line, the middle gateway was
ppened only for the Emperor. Inside this city were the
lesidences, formerly, of the princes and high Manchu officials.
Inside this Imperial City and surrounded by its own reddish
pink walls, is the still more exclusive Forbidden City, for
I enturies a mystery to the outside world, for until the Boxer
trouble, no foreigners were allowed to enter it. Within it
were the palaces, the royal residences and the quarters for
the hundreds of servants and eunuchs. Indeed it was a city
in itself, with a population of several thousands. The pre-
sent palaces occupy the site marked out for the palaces of
Kublai Khan. Indeed the spot has served as an imperial
residence for about ten centuries, for the Liaos had a palace
here at the end of the tenth century, and their successors
a few centuries later began the construction of the series of
artificial lakes which have been elaborated into the present
system. However, the Mings deserve credit for the beauties
of the Forbidden City, and the Manchus added little to it.
Until Peking was captured by the Allied troops in 1900
the Forbidden City was inaccessible to any foreigner. When
the Manchu rulers returned after their flight from the capital
one of the measures of conciliation they adopted toward
foreigners was a slight relaxation of their rigid policy of
exclusion and for the first time foreign ladies were entertain-
ed within the sacred precincts. With the establishment of
the Republic additional parts of the place have been opened
until now it is possible for the traveler, through his legation,
to secure permits to visit the most interesting buildings.
However, it is quite impossible, under any circumstances,
to enter the part of the Forbidden City in which the young
cx-emperor resides.
The best general view of the two cities of Peking can be
gained from Chien Men, the tower on the south wall of the
Tartar City reached from the Legation Quarter by a sloping
roadway near the end of Canal Street. To the north of this
point of vantage may be seen the greater part of the Imperial
and Forbidden cities, the brilliantly colored tile roofs of the
palaces, temples and pagodas and the busy life of the street^
206
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
below combining to form a picture which cannot be duplicated
elsewhere. One can understand, after a view from thi^
ancient wall, why Peking has a population of less than one
million despite the large area it occupies. For a long time
this city was thought to be the largest in the world. But such
a great part of the space is taken up with temple and palace
enclosures and the average Chinese house of the better clas.,
cKXUpics such a large amount of ground space that the
pf.pulation per s^piare mile is probably lower than in any other
large city. To the south, from the Chien Men, the Chinese
City offers a less imposing view but one which is full ot
interest. The tiled roof of the Temple of Heaven can ))'
seen from here, ; nd is one of the most conspicuous landmark ,
in Peking. P'rom the summit of these great walls the human
life below looks strangely small and inscct-like. This portion
of the wall between the Chienmen and Hatamen is exten-
sively used by foreigners as a promenade. It is patrolled
by foreign troops and no Chinese are allowed to walk on it.
It was from the w'all between the Chienmen and Hatamen
that Chinese bombarded the Legations in 1900 and later it was
from here tluit tlic guns of the foreign forces shelled the
palaces. Under one of the provisions of the Boxer protocol,
this portion of the wall was handed over to the Powers not
only as a retrihutory measure but also as a means of insuring
that the Legations he given adecpiate protection. It i^
patrolled by foreign troops and near the Chien Men is the
wireless tower maintained by the American Marine corps a^
a means of ensuring that the Legations shall never again
he cut otl from communication with the outside world. Thi
portion of the wall is paved and kept clear of weeds an<!
brambles. The remainder of the wall is poorly cared for
and one who attempts to walk it will usually find the going
through tangled vegetation rather difficult.
Aside from the sights of Peking, the city is a fascinating
center for the purchase of Chinese curios and art works of
all kinds. In variety of curios, no other city surpasses it and
those who intend doing shopping of this kind should resist
the temptation to purchase elsewhere unless it be at one of
PEKING— legation QUARTER
207
{'.e larger shops in Shanghai. For many centuries the
; 'lest products of the weaver, porcelain maker, artist and
..’her craftsmen came to Peking either as tribute to the ruling
I iinily or were brought here for the collections of rich
,aficials. In addition, there may be found many European
j. wels which somehow or other have found their way into
t!;e Peking shops. The city has been looted many times and
from year to year one hears that the stocks of embroideries
(,r porcelains are diminishing. But the source of supply, the
treasures of prominent families which fall on evil days, seems
to be inexhaustible. The types of porcelains and embroideries
found elsewhere may be purchased in Peking and the local
shops offer many things not usually found in other cities.
.\mong these are Thibetan and T^Iongolian brass and Mongt)!-
iaii carpets and rugs. Among the modern manufactures i:i
which Peking leads are cloisonne and lanterns. Peking is
also a center for the manufacture of the woolen rug which
has become known to foreigners as the ‘‘Tientsin vug.'*
The sights of Peking are so numerous that one can .spend
several weeks there and leave without having seen all of the
important ones. The Temple of Heaven would probably
head any list of attractions with perhaps the Lama Temple
v'oming second, hut few will ever agree as to the relative
interest or importance of the (hjzcns of others. In addition
to these places inside the city, there arc many others ontsiile :
the Great Wall, the I\Iing Tombs, Summer Palaces, Yellow
Temple, etc. No attempt is made in this book to arrange any
^et itinerary. New roads are being opened up and new
iransportatioii systems put in which will disarrange the best
'aid guide book plan. Cook’s or the hotel management can
. ive all necessary information.
Lcfiation Quarter.^JAke most of modern Peking, the
negation Quarter dates from the time of the Boxers for
ince that time a definitely marked and adc(iuatcly protected
luarter has replaced the ohler group of legations which w^cre
separated by Chinese residences and official buildings.
Adjoining the southern wall of the Tartar City, the cpiarter
s separated on all sides from the city itself by walls and
208
handbook rOR CHINA
open spaces. On the south there is the Tartar Wall patrolle d
by foreign troops and on the north the wide glacis on whici
no buildings or other obstructions are allowed. Under th
terms of the Boxer protocol no Chinese are allowed to reside
in tlie Legation Quarter and on the other hand no foreigners
except missionaries are supposed to live outside. However,
ill limes of stress and political uncertainty the quarter i
lijled with Chinese refugees, while as the quarter is small ami
inadequate, foreign business men reside in all parts of thi
Tartar City. Here they arc not officially recognized unless
they are indiscreet enough to mark their places of business
with signs too blatantly large. The Legation Quarter is
removed from Chinese control and is administered by the
foreign legations.
Though the quarter is quite modern, its history goes back
two hundred years, for the church in the Russian Legation
was erected in 1727 for the use of Russian missionaries, while
the site of the Russian Legation was the residence of several
of the Russian embassies and special missions which visited
China in tlic latter part of the seventeenth century.
However, the British legation is actually the oldest, hav
iiig been established after the Treaty of Tientsin was signed.
It was formerly the residence of the thirty-third son of Em-
peror Kang Hsi and was leased to the British government
The original form of the buildings has been retained as far
as possible. More recently the sites of the Han Lin college
and of the Imperial Carriage Park were incorporated in tht
Icgati(Mi grounds. The Imperial Carriage Park w^as formcrl.N
used to stable the elephants sent as tribute from Annam
Although the fiercest fighting in the Boxer siege was at thr
French Legation the British compound sheltered the greates*
number of refugees and almost every foot of the soil wa>
stained with blood. A portion of the old wall, marked witli
many bullet holes, has been preserved near the Jade Canal.
The French Legation was established about the sani '
time as the British and occupies its original site, though som(
additional land has been acquired. 'I he other legations an-
more modern. One of the least attractive is the American.
PEKING— TEMPLE OP HE WEN
209
or the American Congress has always proven niggardly in
' ousing its consular and diplomatic officials in the Far East.
Temple of Heave tu — In the southern extremity of the
Jhinese City is the Temple of Heaven and nearby is its
iccompanying sanctuary, the Altar of Agriculture. They
nre reached by following Chien Men Street through the
Jiiinese City from its northern terminus, the Chien Men,
,uite near the Legation Quarter. The Temple of Heaven is
urrounded by a wall 3^4 miles in circumference. The
.^rounds are filled with gnarled old cypress, fir and pine trees
:tnd served as a pasturage for the oxen sacrificed in the
annual worship by the Emperor. No permit is required ta
visit this place, but a small admission fee is charged.
For centuries before the establishment of the Republic
the Emperor prayed here semi-annually, with special prayers
during times of famine, drouth or other national calami-
ties. The ceremonies were most imposing, the Emperor
l)eing accompanied by thousands of the highest officials,
and they in turn by many minor officials, all escorted by
many thousands of soldiers and servants, the entire company
being gorgeously clad in gowns elaborate according to their
rank. The great pageant composed of these thousands of
officials and courtiers formed at the palace in the Forbidden
City the day before the ceremony and proceeded to the
temple along Chien Men Street. AH the houses along the
route were closed during the progress of the procession and
no one was permitted to view it. The Emperor spent the
night on the grounds in prayer and fasting and the ceremony
was held the following morning at dawn. The worship of
Heaven by the Emperor or *'Son of Heaven” was the survival
of an ancient nature worship much older than Taoism or
Confucianism. The worship was not alone to Heaven, but
also to the tablets of four imperial ancestors, the sun, moon
clouds, rain, etc., though these were looked upon as minor
deities. Separate temples for the sun, moon and patrons of
agriculture are erected in Peking.
The principal structure within the enclosure is the Altar
of Heaven (Tien Tan), the most sacred object in China. ‘Tt
210
IIANTBCOK FOR CHIN/
consists of tliree circular terraces with marble balustrades
and triple stair cases at the four cardinal points to ascend
the upper terrace, which is 90 feet wide, the base being 21o
feet across. The platform is laid with marble stones in niru
concentric circles and everything is arranged in multiples
of the mimljcr nine. The Emperor, prostrate before
Hc.ivcn on tlic altar, surrounded first by the circle oi
the terraco.s and their railings, and then by the hor-
izon seems to lie in the center of the universe, as he
acknowledges liimself inferior to Heaven, and to Heaven
.'done. Round him on the pavement are figured the nine
circles of as many heavens, widening in successive multiples
till the S(|uarc of nine, the favorite number of numerical
philos(^p]iy, is reached in the outer circle of eighty-one stones.”
In the northern part of the upper terrace is a seat where
Siian^-ti. the Ruler of Heaven, was supposed to sit during
the cert'inony, beside it being shrines of the “witnessing
saints,” ancestors of the Emperor. No foreigner ever
witnessed this ceremony, though some have seen the place
as prepared for the visit of the Emperor when it was
decked with lanterns and standards and many ornaments
and decorations of archaic significance. The ritual itstdf
has been described by Dr. John Ross in “The Original
Religions of Cliina.” No priests of any religion ever
olViciated and the elaborate ceremonies were carried out
by court officials who in preparation for it underwent months
of training and instruction.
Near the altar in one corner of the enclosure is the
furnace of green tiles where the sacrificial bullock wa-
placed' at the time of worship. The sacrifice was a calf
without blemish and of uniform color. The eight metal
braziers which partly encircle the altar were used for tlic
luirnt offerings of silk and also for the written prayers
after they had hct.i formally rea<l to tlie sacred tablets. The
black tiled building near the altar was used for the storage
of the tablets and otlicr paraphernalia of worship.
North of the Altar- of Heaven is a smaller altar of the
same design known as the Altar ot Prayer for Grain (Chi
Pf: ICING— TEMPLE OF HEAVEN
211
Ku Tan.) The approach is very impressive over a raised
iiiarble tiled avenue, with groves of evergreen on either side.
.\l)OUt midway may be seen the platform provided for the
I.mperor’s resting tent. On the upper terrace of this altar
i the building known as the Temple of the Happy Year
{Chi Nien Tien.) The building, 99 feet high, is the highest
ni the enclosure, and its roof can be seen from the south
wall of the Tartar City. The triple roofs supported by
massive pillars are covered with blue tiles, blue being the
symbolical color for the worship at this temple, Avhich took
j/lace each spring, the Emperor being the chief ritualist,
'fhe sacrificial vessels used on this occasion were of blue and
all who took part were robed in a similar color, the effect
beirg heightened by the fact that the windows were hung
with Venetian l)linds made of rods of blue glass. This
luiilding is a very modern structure for the older one was
‘Struck by lightning in 1889, because, according to popular
Cliinese belief, an impious and foolhardy centipede climbed
to the gilded ball at the top. When rebuilt every care was
taken to reproduce the older building in all details but it
was impossible to find native timbers strong and long enough
to support the massive roof. Oregon pine was turned to and
the pillars used were secured and transported from Portland
to Peking at great expense. A few unimportant and dusty
i>ieccs of furniture is all that can be found inside the hall.
One object which seems strangely out of place is an electric
light-fixture. Tlie place was lighted in the early days of the
Republic for the convenience of the Committee for Drafting
the Constitution who thought to give this document (which
was not completed in 1920) an added sanctity by making the
Altar its birthplace. The buildings around the temple are
uninteresting, consisting of guard rooms, places for the
^torage of paraphernalia, provisions, etc.
Near the principal entrance to the grounds and usually
the first building shown to the visitor is the Palace of
\hstinence. surrounded by a moat, where the Emperor spent
the niglit in fasting before the ceremony. The place
212
handbook for china
formerly contninecl a throne and handsome furniture but
these have been removed.
The grounds have on several occasions been closed t6
foreigners })ecause of gross disrespect to the sanctity of the
place. It has sufTered at times from neglect. Weeds have
been allowed to grow up between the marble tiles of the
altar itself and the avenues have been obstructed. Walls fell
into disrepair and the place became a refuge for avaricious
menials who held up every visitor. In 1917 General Chang
Hsiin, in his attempt to restore the monarchy, camped his
troops here and the republicans shelled the temple but without
doing any serious damage. More recently there has been
a serious attempt to preserve the beauties of the place and
make them accessible to Chinese and foreigners alike. New
roads have been built and underbrush cleared away and
the hangers-on who formerly battened on tourists have been
banished from the sacred precincts.
Every conqueror of China took to himself the privilege
and responsibility of worshipping at the Altar of Heaven,
and the chief functionary has at various times been ot
Chinese, Mongol or Manchu blood. But though custom and
tradition would allow this elevated station of chief ritualist
to he transferred, even to one of another race, they would not
brook a change in government. When Yuan Shih Kai assum
c(l the dictatorship of China, under the title of president, h‘
sought to prepare the way for his imperial program b:
assuming the functions of the Son of Heaven. One ma>
safely presume that this astute politician made ever\
preparation to assure the success of the ceremony but it wa
a flat failure. The idea was repugnant to the Chinese aii'*
tliere was no second attempt.
Temple of Agriculture. — This temple is situated across
the avenue from the Temple of Heaven and is knowm i:;
Chinese as Shen Niing Tan, i. e., “ Altar dedicated to Shet:
Nung. ** Shen Nung is the mythical emperor who rule '
China about 3000 B. C. and who is credited with the invention
of the plow, the institution of markets and the discovery 0:
the value of herbs. (See page 197.)
PEKING—LAMA TEMPLE
213
It was here that the Emperor annttally, on the first day of
the spring season worshipped the tablet of Shen Nung and at
the same time paid tribute to the respect in which the Chinese
hold the vocation of a farmer. Attired in a peasant’s garb of
imperial yellow he plowed three furrows from east to west,
being attended by officials who flourished whips, held the
seeds, etc. The officials then finished the field which waa
carefully cultivated and the crop kept for use in special
sacrificial ceremonies. Similar ceremonies were observed
at the same time in all the provinces.
The imperial plow, the costume worn by the emperor and
many other objects of interest were formerly on display
here but the halls in which they were kept have been closed
and scaled.
Originally the Temple of Agriculture was much like the
Temple of Heaven but attempts to modernize it have greatly
changed the character of the place. Upon the altars are now
erected pavilions of a semi-modern type, used as band-stands
and tea-houses. On national holidays this place becomes an
ordinary Chinese fair and is thronged by thousands of
people.
Lama Temple.— This show place of Peking, (really not a
temple but a monastery) is on Hatamcn street near the north
wall of the Tartar City. It is easily reached hy riesha from
any hotel. Although an admission fee is charged and notices
urgently request visitors not to give tips, they may expect to
be annoyed by the impudent Mongol monks.
Although there are several temples in Peking devoted to
this unattractive form of Buddhism, this monastery is the
most important Lama and Mongol center, being the official
residence of a Living Buddha, although he does not actually
live there. It is known to the Chinese as Vung Ho Kung, or
“Lamasery of Eternal Peace. ” Originally the residence of
Yung Cheng, before he came to the throne, t!iat monarch
stored up merit in the Lama heaven and at the same time
strengthened his hold on the loyalty of his Mongol and
Tibetan subjects by dedicating the propeity to the Lamas.
According to old Chinese practices no buil ling once occupied
214
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
by J\n Kmperor could ever be used as a dwelling place. Since
his day many emperors have used this monastery as a means
of contr«dling Tibetans and Mongols, for the abbots hold
im[)ortant places in the elaborate and complicated hierarchy
of Lamaism. Many of the valuable articles the monastery
contains are imperial presents. Even the republican govern-
ment takes particular pains not to offend the 1500 dirty
nmnks who make this their home. However, Republican
support is not so munificent as was that given by the
nionarchs. Money grants have been cut of¥ and the
monastery is no longer the recipient of its former opulent
revenue. Perhaps that is one of the reasons why foreigners,
once so rigidly excluded, are now welcomed because the
admittance fees they pay as well as the tips they give, eke out
a scanty revenue, l^'ormerly the place was difficult of entry
and nnny travelers had disagreeable experiences, for the
ill-favored monks would surround and threaten them in what
was usually a successful attempt to ext;rt illegal fees.
Conditions arc better now and it is only in the more sechuletl
places that one is annoyed and then, usually, by an impudent
neophyte. It is interesting to note that tlicse nr>nks, wiio are
all Mongol or Tibetan, have scorned to learn Chinese;
but many of them have picked up a little iiidgia English as
a means of getting money from foreigners.
'I'he temple grounds arc (juiet and secluded, and shaded by
ancient trees. On entering, one jjasses tlirougb a long wide
avenu'’ past tlie living quarters of tlie monks. 'lhei>e poorly
ventilated, cells have accumnlated the tilth of centuries and
have doubtless furnislied the setting for many a weird crime.
Like most Puddiiist structures in China, the monastery con-
sists of a series of scmi-detachcd huildiiigs grouped about
courtyards. The buildings, though in a sad state of decay,
are decked with wonderful carvings and tlie courtyards are
paved with flagstones. The equipment of sacerdotal para-
phernalia is said to be the most complete in Cliiiia.
In the first courtyard to be entered is a i)air of bronze
Eons worthy of more than passing attention because they are
remarkable examples of casting. In another courtyard is a
PEKING— LAMA TEMPLE
2iS
huge stone monument inscribed on its four sides with the
history of Lamaism in the Chinese, Manchu, Tibetan and
Mongol languages. Prayer wheels, which one may turn,
and thereby acquire the merit of having said a thousand
prayers, are numerous.
The principal object of interest in the monastery is the
huge image of Maitreya, the Buddhist redeemer, over 70 feet
liigh, which stands in a building in the northern part of the
enclosure. The temple attendants say this image is “seventy
elbows high,” that being the height the pious lama is suppos-
ed to reach in his reincarnation. They also assert tliat the
image was carved from a single tree trunk and brought from
Tibet. It passes through several successive stories of the
])uiUling it occupies and around it is built a staircase which
the devout must climb. A huge praying wheel in the same
building is almost as high as the image. It is curious to note
that this stern image of Maitreya represents the same god
tliat Chinese Buddhism depicts as a fat-hellied smiling crea-
ture.
The monastery abounds in objects which are held in high
esteem by lamas. In one. of the principal balls is an incon-
spicuous and somewhat crude and ugly image of Buddha.
The story goes that Kmperor Chicn Bung dreamed of the
existence of this image in a temple on the borders of Tibet.
A monk was sent to bring the image to Peking and
after several miraculous experiences succeeded in finding it
and started to return with the image tied on his back.
But he had to travel through Russian territory and the monk
had a great deal of tr^juble finding his way as he did
not speak Russian. He tried to learn the language and
failed. But the image found no difficulty about understand-
ing it and acted as interpreter throughout the long trip. The
visitor will usually have this image pointed out to him as
soon as he enters the building. It can be distinguished from
the other gods by its yellow silk cape and hoo*!.
The many objects of greater or lesser interest in the
monastery are too numerous for detailed description. They
include a golden model of paradise, a replica of the great*
216
BAND300K fOE CHINA
Lamasery in Lhasa, images of the two hippopotami which
made a murderous but unsuccessful attack on Chicn Lung and
of tlic two grotesque servants who saved their royal master.
In a side hall not often visited by foreigners but acces-
sible to those who are persistent is a group of strange and
often obscene images which depict the grosser forms of
Lamaism, which appear to be connected with an older Phallic
iult.
Visitors should plan to see the Lanii monastery either
early in the morning or late in the afternoon for then they
may have an opportunity of seeing and hearing the very
interesting matin or vesper services in which many of the
monks take part. Clad in their yellow, orange or brick red
costumes the monks lile into the hall and kneel about the
abbot who by lifting a bunch of peacock feathers gives the
signal for the service to l)Cgin. There is a burst of cymbals,
drums and conch shells, a weird harmony which sounds
like nothing else on earth. A chant follows in which a prayer
is recited time after time and meanwhile the monks make
strange gestures, mysterious to the stranger, and perhaps
obscure to most of the worshippers for the l^i^nas have ever
been more scrupulous about carrying out the forms of their
religion than about learning the spirit which the forms
represent.
Those who vi.sit Peking in the right season many be
fortunate enough to see the famous Lama “ devil dance
which is held annually on the 30th day of the first Chinese
moon. This is largely attended by Chinese for although no
Chinese is a lama, many have sohie belief in the efficacy of
lama superstitions. '* After a long period of waiting,
patiently endured, several beings half human, half devil,
tiuddenly hurl themselves into the very midst of the expectant
throng. Their costumes are weird, resembling those of Ped
Indian Medicine men. Death's head masks cover their faces,
red painted flames lick their limbs from foot to knee, and in
their hands they carry fearsome-looking long-lashed whips to
be used in clearing a space for the dance. With demoniacal
yells they dash about, pushing back the crowd and beating
WRING— TEMPLE OP CONPUCIUS
217
ihe unwary till they have made sufficient room. Then from
the temple emerges a strange procession of dancers. They
also wear strange vestments of many colors and huge ghastly
masks of bird or beast. To the slow and measured cadence
of unmelodious music, to the sound of hand drums and great
drums, small flutes and great flutes, and pandean pipes of a
form unknown to Western Pan, they advance in fours
bowing and circling, their heads lolling from side to side
with the time and movement of their bodies. The per-
formance, which lasts for hours to the immense delight
of the crowd, who, regardless of the attentions of the long
whipped devils, draw closer in an ever diminishing circle,
culminates in the cutting up of an effigy of the Evil Spirit.”*
Temple of Confucius. — The Confucian temple is located
in the grounds of the Kuo Tzu Chien, the old national
university of China. The chief object of interest in the large
hall of the temple is the ancestral tablet of the sage enshrined
in an alcove. Tablets of four sages and disciples flank
the tablet of Confucius, while tablets of many other disciples
are placed in the hall. Before the alco-ve stands the conven-
tional “ sacrifical set of five,” 1 incense burner, 2 candlesticks
and 2 flower vases. The table in front is for the sacrificial
offerings. Above the alcove are four Chinese characters
meaning “ The Model Teacher of a Myriad Ages,” a tribute
paid to Confucius by Emperor K’ang PIsi. The tablets on the
roof are also in praise of Confucius, being presented to the
temple by various Emperors.
There is more of interest in the courtyard, where will
be found ten roughly chiseled boulders inscribed with a
description of a great hunting expedition which King Shan
undertook nearly three thousand years ago. The stones arc
known as the “ stone drums of the Chow dynasty.” It will be
noticed that one of the drums has been cut off and hollowed
out as a mortar, thus destroying a part of the inscription.
Grief over this mutilation is expressed in several famous
poems. The stones were discovered in the seventh century
'^Peking** by Jullict Bredon.
218
HANDBCpK FOR CHINA
and 800 years ago they were considered such valua1»lvi
antiquities that a special palace was built for their Exhibition
at the then capital of Honanfu and the inscriptions were filled
with gold. When the Tartars captured Honan they dug oy
the gold and carried the stones to Peking. So many rubbing
have been taken that the inscriptions are now indecipherable.
Stone tablets in the courtyard bear the names of all those
who have taken literary degrees for five centuries. Huge
monuments, standing on carved stone tortoises in the main
courtyard, are covered with inscriptions telling of the sue-
cessful wars undertaken by the Manchu li^mperors.
The Hall of Classics.— This structure, called the Pi Yung
Kung, adjoins the national university in whicli the Temple
of Confucius stands and may be entered from the temple
grounds. The hall is of a pure type of Chinese architc:ture
being modeled on ancient lines, though the present building
was erected by Chien Lung, ’Tt is a lofty square building
witli a four-sided roof covered with tiles enameled imperial
yellow, and surmounted by a large gilded ball, encircled In'
a pillared verandah under a second projecting roof of yellow
tiles. The four sides consist, each one, of seven pairs of
folding doors with tracery panels. It is surrounded by ^
circular moat with marble balustrades crossed by four
bridges leading to the central doors." Along the main
courtyard sheltered by buildings stand three hundred stem'
steles covered with inscriptions comprising the complete
texts of the nine classics. This was done in order to prevent
their possible destruction, as was attempted by Shih Hwang
ti. The characters are disposed in page size so that rubbings
taken could be conveniently bound up in book form.
It was formerly the custom for the Emperor to come
here on state occasions, and, seated on the throne provided
for the occasion, expound the classics. The throne building
contains tablets to the memory of several well-known
Emperors. A magnificent porcelain pailow stan.ds in one
part of the courtyard, displaying a dedicatory tabUt. - The
pailow is constructed of marble and tiles and is one of the
Pi- KING— DRUM AND BELL TOWERS
219
f structures of the kind in China. An interesting old
: j.i-dial stfhds in the main courtyard.
The Drum Tower.— In return for a small tip, the keeper
f the Drum Tower several blocks west of tbe Hall of
•v lassies will allow the visitor to climb to the top of
ti.e structure. This is reached by means of 75 rather
r,ncomfortable steps which lead to a height of 130-
loot, where an excellent view of the Tartar City is obtained.
1 he tower is one of the landmarks of Peking as it can be seen
from nearly alJ parts of the city.
Formerly the hours of the watch were marked here by a
rlcpsydra, an instrument which measured time by the
t -ickling of water, but a clock is now used.
The Bell Tozvcr. — Between the Drum Tower and
i\\Q northern wall stands the Bell Tower, containing one of
the five great bells ordered to be cast by Emperor Yung-lo,
wlio built the famous porcelain pagoda of Nanking. The bell
>i.inds on a platform 130 feet above the street level.
.According to local tradition the casting of the bell was
attended by considerable difficulty and several attempts
resulted in imperfect specimens. The Emperor finally
became angry and announced that another failure would
result in the execution of the bell maker. The beautiful
daughter of the bell maker visited a shrine to pray for her
father s success and was told in a dream that the bell would
be a success only if a life was sacrificed in the casting.
When the molten metal was turned into the mould, she
jumped into it, and the bell was a success. Credulous
Chinese are still able to hear low moans of pain proceeding
from the bell. Visitors will hear the bell only at 8:30 at
n’ght, when the watch is changed, and its deep tones can be
h-ard in all parts of the city.
Having told this story it is only fair to state it really
applies to another and more remarkable bell to be found at
the Buddhist temple Ta Chung Ssu, or “Big Bell Temple,’'
3 z miles west of the city. This bell is the most famous of
t c five cast by Emperor Yung Lo and the legend told above-
well as the dimensions and the description, has been*
220
handbook j*or china
applied to the more accessible bell in the tower. The bell ii\
Big licll Temple is 14 feet high, 36 feet in circunfference ar ;
weighs 60 tons. It is said to be the largest suspended bell i -
the world and is certainly the most remarkable. Both ti.o
inside and the outside of the bell as well as the mechanise i
with wdiich it is hung are covered with Chinese charactei
consisting of extracts from .the Fa Hun Cliing and Ling ,
Ching. These characters are not inscribed, as is usually sai !,
but were cast with the bell. The bell was cast about 14(‘^
where it now stands and the ground excavated from beneaih
It. It was covered over in a temple in 1578. The bell in tl.?
tower, though ((uite remarkable for its size and workmanshi*-,
is in both respects inferior to the one in the temple.
Astronoinical Observatory. — This is in the.south-eastf:n
part of the Tartar City, adjoining the eastern wall.
observatory formerly marked the southeast corner of tin*
Mongol capital under Kublai Khan, but when the capital
was rebuilt for the occupancy of the Mings, the southern
wall was carried further to the south. This is the oldest
astronomical observatory in the world, having been built by
Kublai Khan in 1279 and equipped at that time with bronze
instruments made by a celebrated Chinese astronomer. It
was not until three hundred years later that Europe ha<I
Its first observatory, founded by Frederick III of Denmark
in 1576. However, the building is not so ancient as the site
on which it stands for about 100 years ago the origin d
structure was replaced and the present ouilding is even more
modern.
The principal instruments are on top of the tower, abe d
ten .feet higher than the city wall, from which there w^is
formerly an entrance, but the place cannot be entered no v
from the wall but through the buildings below, where son:'
of the instruments are to be seen. Visitors are supposed t »
be admitted only on certain days and on presenting car ^
from their legation but those who go are rarely >turned away
Most of the instruments now in the observatory wc: '
made under the direction of the Jesuit Priest Verbicst, wh >
was placed in charge of the observatory as head of th«
PUKING— EXAMINATION HALL
221
npcria! Board of Mathematics. Verbiest was m charge of
.e observ^ory until 1688 and taught the Chinese astronomical
•ience as known to the Europeans. “The Chinese proved
lemselves apt pupils. They soon learned to compute
.'lipses but when the moment of the eclipse arrived, the
’ 1 embers of the Honorable Board reverted to their old habits.
. rraycd in the official robes, they assembled in the courtyard
^ad frantically beat tomtoms to scare away the dragon
. '')out to swallow the sun or moon." The instruments
\ crbiest had made were copies of older Chinese models,
( vccept that the circles were divided into 360 degrees instead
365i^, which was the old Chinese system, allowing one
ilegrce for each day in the year. One of the instruments was
presented to the Emperor of China by Louis XIV of France.
When Peking was looted by the foreign troops in 1900 some
( f the finest instruments from this observatory were taken'
by the Germans and sent to decorate a terrace in Potsdam.
The looted instruments were replaced by copies half the size
(T originals. When the treaty of Versailles was signed,
(lermany agreed to return the originals, China thus gaining
the booby prize of the Great War, as this was her sole reward
for joining the Allies.
Site of Old Examination Hall. — This is west of the
IvCgation Quarter just inside the city wall and north of the
\stronomical Observatory. From this vantage point the
\isitor can see all he needs to see of the historic spot. The
large compound was formerly filled with prison-like stalls
which are now torn down, the intention being to erect
here a building to house the Chinese Legislature. Under
Mie old regime students met here to compete for the inetro-
’.^olitaii degree, the highest which could be awarded under
Mie old Chinese system of civil service, in which promotion in
>rficial life was gained only through literary merit. Long
before the examination halls were.torn down, the system of
which they formed a part had decayed and what once had
f)een the most advanced method of selecting civil servants had
degenerated into an elaborate system of bribery and cor-
ruption. But the old forms remained long after the spirit of
2J2
IIaNUBOOK for china
the institution had departed. Every third year candidate'
came from the provinces and suffered themselves t^be locke 1
into the hare cells for three days and two nights while they
wrote essays on Confucian ethics in order to prove the.r
fitness to collect taxes, administer laws, build bridges
siii)in-css pira'cy and perform the many other legislativ>\
adiniiii.,trative and judicial functions demanded of a Chinese
official.
l\v rnc of his reform edicts of 1898 the Emperor Kuaim
Hsn sought to aboli.sh this old system and two years later tli >
c.xai.iination halls were partially destroyed during the Boxc:
troubles. According to Peking gossip the liricks were carried
away to be used in rebuilding the Legation Quarter.
'Ihe old Imperial (Iranaries where Manchu tribute rice
wa.s collected can also be seen from the Observatory. 'I hc
buildings arc now falling into decay and have been unused
for a decade.
Xiitional A) t Mtisciiiit, — During the brief period that he
ruled China as president or dictator. Yuan Shih Kai initiated
many reforms and improvements and one fc7 wliich he
deserves great credit is the establishment of an art museum,
w ithin the Forbidden City, but accessible to all.
Tt occupies buildings which were formerly used as halls
of audience for military officials. This museum, about
twenty minutes from the Legation Quarter by riesha, is open
to all oil the payment of a small fee. The art objects are
largel V taken from the old imperial collections formerly kept
at Moukdeii and Jehol and removed to Peking following the
]Maiicliu abdication. It is without doubt the most complete
collection of Cliiiicse art to be found anywhere and it is of
trcnicndou.s value, some expert valuations being as high a^
SIOO.OUO.OOO. The collection is so large that the exhibition
halls are cro^vded to the ceilings and yet there is not room
for all and many priceless objects are stored in adjoining
buildings. Foreign experts aided in the arrangement of the
museum but it is to be regretted that the Chinese government
has not seen fit to i.ssuc a catalog in Fnglish. for though each
ALTAR OF EARTH
223
J^iece is marked with a Chinese card, the visitor who does not
Know thaf language is at a disadvantage.
In the main hall will be seen cloisonn6, lacquer, porce-
i.iins, paintings, carved ivory and jade, embroideries and
t>pical examples of other forms of Chinese art. In a
-eparate hall just outside the entrance to the main liall of the
’nuseum is found a wonderful collection of old bronzes, most
.'f them dating from 1000 to 1500 B. C. The student of
Chinese art should visit this hall first'as that will give him
m opportunity to observe how the forms of the earlier
iironzes were copied in the later porcelains. The museum is
^0 arranged that one may casually inspect its treasures in an
hour or two but the serious student of Chinese art can
[irofitably spend days in any one of the many sections.
According to Dr. Jolui C. Ferguson in his “ Outlines
nf Chinese Art” this is “unique among the museums of the
’.\orld. In architectural design and detail and in historical
Vtirroundings, as well as in the examples of art products
dored within its walls, this museum is exclusively and
characteristically Chinese. The bronzes and jades, paintings
ind manuscripts, pottery and porcelain, inks and writing
hrushes, all owe their common origin to the genius of
die Chinese race. This museum has not needed to borrow
from other nations examples of an earlier art, out of whicli
'ts own development has directly or indirectly sprung : on tlie
contrary, the art spirit which found its exprcssitni in llie.se
'.arious forms during the historic period joins hands even
Aith the earliest mythological and legei^dary traditions of
he country. ”
Altar Of Ti Tan Miao or Altar of Ivarth i.-i
icated just outside of the north wall of the Tartar City
lid to the east of the An Ting Men, being separated from the
'.ama and Confucian temples only by the city wall ami moat.
The Altar of Earth is square instead of round like the Altar
f Heaven, it being the ancient belief of the Chinese that
caven was round and the earth square. The main altar is
omposed of two terraces io6 feet across, and the enclosure
s surrounded by a moat. The structure is chiefly of wiiite
224
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
marble, while owing to the use of tiles the predomiijant color
is yellow, not necessarily because yellow is the imperial color,
but because it is the symbolical color for earth just as blue
is for heaven, red for the sun, greenish-white for the moon,
etc.
Worsliip at this altar was conducted by the emperor as at
the Altar of Heaven but the ceremony, conducted during the
summer solstice, was on a smaller scale. Offerings of bul
locks, etc. were made as at the Altar of Heaven, but here they
were buried in the ground instead of burned. The present
altar dates back to Mongol times.
T/ic Botanical And Zoological Gardens, — These are in
one large enclosure a few miles directly W'est from the Hsi
Chih Men, the gate from which the trip to the Summer Palace
is made or the station of the Kalgan railway reached. The
gardens arc connected with the city by a good carriage road
and the visit could be made at the same time as the trip to the
Summer Palace is taken. The “Old Buddha" (the Empress
Dowager) spent a great deal of care on these gardens.
The pleasure boats she used can still be seen there and
other pleasure boats are for hire and thus trips around the
garden or the moat can be taken in comfort. The gardens
have been modernized. An entrance marked by three fine
buildings graces the frontage.
The gardens as. a whole are kept in fine condition, and
with their winding paths, camel back bridges, pavilions of
many styles, tc.i-houscs, etc. this place is fast becoming a
pleasure resort for the people of the city who care for a da.\
amidst trees and flowers.
The Zoological Carden is also well worth seeing and is
well kept. The entrance is by ticket to be had at the gate
for 20 cents.
Coal Hill. — Just to the north of the Forbidden City and
enclosed by a wall which forms the northern boundary of the
city is an artifical mound 210 feet high variously known as
Co: I Hill, Prospect Hill, or City Mountain — one of the
prettiest spois in Peking. According to local tradition, the
mound was partly formed during the Mongol dynasty by huge
MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUES
225
tores of coal when revolution threatened. If this is true
diere are no evidences now of the store of fuel, for the place is
I overed by grass and trees, the whole forming an attractive
jiark. There are many theories as to the reason for building
fhe hill which is obviously artificial, the most generally accept-
ed being that it was built of earth taken from the moats and
< anals. The hill terminates in five summits, on each of which a
.cmple has been built. The last Emperor of the Mings hanged
himself on one of the trees in the enclosure, when Peking
was taken by rebels, a short time before the Manchu oc-
cupation of the capital.
Several holes have been bored into the hill at different
limes but no coal was ever found. According to Chinese
'Delief, the hill serves a very useful purpose of fdng shut
warding off from the Forbidden City the evil influences
which come from the north.
Ti IVang A/fao.— This, the Walhalla of China, is on the
avenue leading to the west gate of the Tartar City. It is
a collection of halls wherein the tablets of all the
monarchs of China from the remote ages are worshiped.
The rule for admission is to accept “all save the vicious and
oppressive, those who were assassinated and those who lost
their kingdoms. This memorial temple was opened in 1522.
The Manchus have even admitted some of the Tartar rulers
of the Kin and Liao dynasties, raising the total number of
tablets to nearly three hundred. It is an impressive sight,
these simple tablets of men who once ruled the Middle
Kingdom, standing here side by side, worshiped by their
successors that their spirit's may bless the state. The selection"
of the good sovereigns alone recalls fo mind the custom in
ancient Jerusalem of allowing wicked princes no place in the
sepulchres of the Kings. Distinguished statesmen of all
ages, called by the Chinese Kwoh-chu, or ‘pillars of state/
are associated with their masters in this temple, as not un-
worthy to receive equal honors.''
Mohammedan Mosques^ — There are about 40 small
mosques in Peking, but the principal one is to be found on
the street outside the south-west wall of the Imperial City.
226
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Tho principal building of the mosque was burned several
years ago and has not been rebuilt, the services being c jii-
du< ted in a small side building, where the Mohammedan,
assenibb* every Friday for prayer. The most interestinc;
object it contains is a great stone monument dedicated to tin
inuvinc by Emperor Chien Lung. The inscriptions arc ir,
Turkish, Manchu and Chinese. Other stones about the place
bc.ir inscriptions in Turkish and Arabic, which language.,
arc .spoken by many of the Chinese attendants.
]’cIloiu Temple —About a half-hour’s riesha ride nortl;
(jt \n Ting Men (gate) is the great Yellow Temple (Hwana
Knng) composed of two buildings erected in 1651 and 1722
One was intended as a place of residence for Dalai Lamas on
iheir visits to Peking and the other for the entertainment ot
Mongol princes when they came to the capital with tribute
Tlic grounds cover a vast area and the buildings still show
evidences of their former magnificence though they are now
neglected and are fast falling into decay. The idols it
contains are more of the Tibetan or Indian type than of the
Cliincsc. This was formerly a celebrated factory for tiie
]ir<)diiction of religious paraphernalia for the temples oi
Mongrel ia and Tibet. Many of the curious Tibetan prayer
wliccl.s, incense burners etc. offered for sale in the Peking
cm io shops are produced at this temple.
The chief glory of the place is the white marble stupa or
dagoba built by the Emperor Chien Lung in memory of the
Panclian Bogdo, the Grand Lama of Tashilhunpo, who died
there of smallpox* on November 12, 1780. His robes were
buried under tliis stupa, although his cremated remains were
<'arried back in a gobl casket to Tibet. “The stupa is modeled
on 'fibetan lines, adhering generally to the ancient Indian
type, but differing in that the dome is inverted. The spire or
toran, composed of tliirtccn steplikc segments, symbolical of
the thirteen Buddhist heavens, is surmounted by a large
cupola of gilded bronze. It is mounted on a series of angular
plinths, posed upon a solid base of octagonal form. On the
eight sides arc sculptured in high relief scenes in the life of
the deceased Jama, including the preternatural circum3tancc>
SUMMER PALACE
227
attendant on his birth, his entrance into the priesthood,
combats with heretics, instruction of disciples, and death. ”
This stupa, one of the best examples of modern Chinese
sculpture, was wantonly mutilated in 1900 by the Japanese
troops quartered in the temple during the Boxer uprising.
The temple is the scene of an interesting ceremony
(luring the fir^t moon, when the evil spirits arc driven away
by exorcisms and incantations, many of the lamas appearing
hideously disguised as black and white demons. The
(.eremony, accompanied by strange dances, terminates at noon
when a painted statue of a demon is placed on a pile of hay
and burned by the living Buddha.
The priests who insist on acting as guides and demand large
hums for their services do not know a word of English and
are only annoying. A guide should be brought from the city.
Summer Palcu'c. —A macadam road leads from the Hsi
Chi I>Ien (north gate in the west wall of the 'L'artar City) to
tlic famous summer palace, Smiles distant. There are really
two summer palaces near Peking and as tlicy are equally
famous and are located near each other, they are very fre-
(iucntly confused. The old summer palace was the inspiration
of Kang Hsi who l)uilt here a summer residence. His
ren(.)\vncd successor, Chicn Lung, added many improvements,
'securing the aid of Jesuit priests and the best of Chinese
architects and landscape gardeners. Many of the pavilions
were Iniilt in semi-Kurovean style. 'Vitliiii the grounds were
.ibout thirty places of residence for princes and ofticials and
many small villages for the residence of servants aijd eunuchs,
leather Beviot. writing of the place 150 years ago, said;
’To form any idea of iis beauty one must drift into the re-
gions of fairyland, such as dcscril ed by imaginative writers.'*
This summer palace was practically destroyed by the English
and French troops in ld60. but many interesting ruins remain,
Before setting fire to the place the French and English looted
It, the finest art objects being selected for Queen VT’etoria
and Napoleon Til. Many of the wonderful examples of
Chinese art in European museums or private collections were
taken from this palace at the time.
228
HANDBOOK m CHINA
The present summer palace was built by the old Empress
Dowager near the ruins of the older palace. In its construc^
tion she lavished the money which had been appropriated for
the establishment of a modern navy for China. Like tiie
older palace it is built on a scries of hills and contains mar.;
pavilions, bridges, etc.
“ The grounds are lovely, a beautiful clear lake spaniic'l
l;y a white marble bridge lying in their midst, like a diamcjj. ]
sparkling in a setting of green. The palace itself is Vu .*
all other Chinese houses, a succession of one-storied ha]i>,
liullt round central courtyards, and each one divided insiib'
into three, by tall, beautifully carved blackwood parti-
tions. These halls are raised upon stone terraces, and ap-
proached by a flight of broad steps. Their curling roofs aia*
tiled with imperial yellow or bright green and each corner
is bestridden by half a dozen curious little devils, frut i
SIX to eight inches high, made of porcelain and represont-
ing dragons or phoenixes, their position there being in some
way connected in the Chinese mind with the feng shut,
or occult influences affecting the prosperity of ti.<‘
inhabitants. The caves supporting the roofs are paint^ I
and decorated by hand with a multitude of gay scenes fiom
Chinese life, treated with the utmost brilliant coloring ' f
greens, blues, and vermilions, the ubiquitous Chinese drag' ij
appearing over ami over again under a hundred diflori ; t
aspects. Some fine bronze birds and beasts, stand si ' *
tinel at the chief entrances. A creeper-overgrown ‘cove; i
\vay* meanders through the grounds, skirting the lake /. i
leading from the palace to a group of temple buildings sv : t
tered on the side of the hill which backs it.” One of t *
most interesting objects in the grounds is a white mar’ i
summer house built in the shape of a boat and appare::* ’ >
floating on the surface of the water.
During the monarchy the summer palace was open ' •
foreign visitors on certain days of the month wdien the coirt
was not in residence there, admission being secured throu i
application to foreign ministers. The palace is now oi >
MING TOMBS
229
ilaily to Ooth foreigners and Chinese at a fixed fee, tickets
I eing secured at the entrance.
The Ming Tombs. — The completion of the Peking-Kalgan
railway makes possible a pleasant excursion from Peking to
:he Great Wall and to the Ming tombs, interesting places
vliich could formerly be reached only by mule cart, a trip
vvhich involved a good many hardships. Both these places
are best visited from Nankow, about two hours' railway
Journey from Peking. The railway station at Peking is
Miitside the northwest corner of the Tartar City, about an
hour’s journey from the Legation Quarter. By taking the
morning train one can reach Nankow before noon and the
.Ming tombs can be visited the same day, spending the follow-
ing day on a trip to the Great Wall and to the Nankow Pass,
the great gateway between China and Mongolia. Two hotels
at Nankow, the Railway and the Ching Er, afford comfortable
topping places for travelers, who should notify the managers
ui advance of their coming, so that there will be no delay about
l)roviding donkeys and chairs for the excursions. Donkeys
for the trip are provided at $1 and mountain chairs at $7.
All other expenses, including railway fare from Peking and
return, will amount to less than $15.
The beautiful valley in which the tombs are located is six
miles long, and the tombs, each in a separate enclosure, are
on the slopes of the wooded hill which mark the valley. The
Chinese name of the place is Shih-san Ling or “Tombs of the
Thirteen (Emperors)," that being the number of rulers
buried here.
Approaching the tombs from Nankow one comes first
to an enormous white marble pailow of five arches, marking
the entrance to the “Holy Way." This is three miles distant
from the tombs. The inscription on the pailow enjoins on
all visitors a feeling of reverence for the holy place about to
be visited.
On each side of the avenue are large images carved of
blue limestone. “The military mandarins, six in number, have
mailed coats reaching down below* the knees, close-fitting caps
hanging over the shoulder, a sword in the left hajid and a
230
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
marshal’s baton in the right. The civil officials have robcf
with long hanging sleeves, tasseled sashes bound with jade-
mounted belts, embroidered breastplates, and square cai-
The animals which follow, facing the avenue, comprise t\\ ,
pairs of lions, two of unicorn monsters, two of camels, two
of elephants, two of hi-lin and tw'o of horses, one pair being
rei)resented standing, tbe other seated'^or kneeling.” There
has been a great deal of wanton destruction of the monu-
ments and arches on the Holy Way, which in places is
difficult to follow. At one time this avenue was magnificcntl\
paved and stretched through a beautifully wooded connlr) .
It was then the scene of many gorgeous processions wher.
the later Ming b'mperors offered sacrifices to their ancestfi ^
Much of the paving has been torn up, the trees cut down ftu
fuel and the tine bridges allowed to fall into disrepair. I'lu-
country now has a hare and forbidding look.
At tlic end of the avenue is the scmi-circlc of thirtet :i
t<)mhs and in the center the great temple or sacrificial h;i!l
dedicated to F.mperor Vung-lo. The large hall 200 feet Inii'
by 00 wide contains forty red lac(iuered columns, e.u'.
consisting of an enormous iV-rsca Xanmu tree trunk, ()\cr
()0 feet high and ten feel in circumference at tlie base. 'I'ia
columns rcacli to the true roof under which there is >•
lower coiling, 'flu* Persea Xanmu is a fragrant wood an**'
these old colnnins still exhale a faint odor. In the hall i
the ancestral tablet t>f Vnng-lo, before which sacribci:!!
offerings arc regularly placed. The fine building; has remaiia 1
intact fur five hundred years. It is pr(>l)al»ly the la
building in China and certainly one of the best preserved
In the rear of the hall after passing through heautiiai
courtyards one conies to the tomb, and a suhtcrraiiea '.
passage leads to the top of the tumulus. This is a half mif
in circuit and has the appearance of a natural hill, thoiigli
is really artificial. According to tradition the coffin wn.'
carefully siii>i>ondcd in a pit so that no water could toucli ;
and all of the requirements of good fi'njshui be compile ’
with. One feature which will always impress the visitor i •
THE great wall
231
the absolute silence of the spot for it is seldom that even the
cry of a bird will be heard.
The twelve other tombs are constructed on the same
i;eneral design, though the dimensions are dilTcrent. They
are rarely visited. Of the sixteen monarchs of the Ming
dynasty, thirteen are buried here, while the founder, Hung
\Vu, is buried in Nanking. The second sovereign was
obliged to fly from Peking in disguise wlicn Ynng-lo seized
the throne. Emperor Ching-tsong (1450-1457) ruled only
while his brother was held in captivity by the 'Partars and on
his death was not accorded imperial honors. Guides and
donkey drivers, in order to save time often take the visitor
from Nankow direct to the sacrificial hall. The trip should
he made as described above, approaching the tombs by the
■‘Holy Way.’'
The Great rF(7//.— The trip from the village of Nankow
to the Great Wall and Nankow Pass is made on a train
which leaves Nankow very early in the morning, h'.arly
breakfasts are provided at the hotels.
The railway extends to Kalgan. a distance of 124 miles,
with an extension which will ultimately be completed to
Urga, replacing, as a means of transportatif>n, the many
camel trains which now cross Mongolia. The railway line is
especially interesting as being an enterprise successfully
carried out by Chinese without foreign aid. It was Iniilt by
Chinese engineers, who successfully solved many diflicult
problems of construction, and has always been under purely
Chinese management. The engineering difficulties w'ere
greatest at Nankow Pass, where the grade is steep and many
sharp curves were necessary. Between Nankow and Pata
IJn, a distance of ten miles, the railway rises to an altitude of
1600 feet, a difficult piece of construction which was accomp-
lished by Chinese engineers. Four tunnels were necessary at
this point, one of them. which reaches to the summit of the
pass being 3000 feet long. Tlie building of this small section of
the line took four years.
Some idea of the immensity of China may be gained
from the fact that of the 1500 miles of wall the small portion
232
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
of it seen nt Nankow Pass is the most accessible. The
C(Jii:ariifHnn of tlie wall was begun in the third century before
Ciirist. Originally it w^as built to the seashore, near Peking,
l)fit that portion has since been destroyed. Running eastward
and north of Peking, the wall turns south and east through
j^hensi to the Yellow River. The height of the wall is 20 to
50 feet, and at stniie places, at intervals of 200 yards, there
are towers 40 feet high, designed for sentry stations and
as places of \aiUage from which stones could be hurled at an
attacking party. Cannon were formerly mounted at these
points but liavc now been removed. The base is 15 to 25 feet
thick and the summit 12 feet, the whole structure being
constructed so that it will drain perfectly. The wall is
carried over mountains and through valleys and at some
places is 4000 feet above the sea level. The views from some
of the high points near Nankow Pass are magnificent. Part
of the wall has fallen into decay or has entirely disappeared,
but in valleys and along roads through which attacks might
be directed, it is built of solid masonry, has been kept in good
repair, and is still guarded by small garrisons. Chinese
history contains very little reference to this monumental
piece of construction, which was designed to prevent attacks
by the Tartars. The portion of the wall seen at Nankow
Pa.ss is really only an inner section of the great w’all, the
outer section being at Kalgan.
iy ester n 'I'niubs. — Some of the Emi)erors of the Manch'.
dynasty arc buried at the llsi Ting, or ‘‘Western Tombs.'
west of the town of Yi Chow, To reach the place, take a trair.
on the Peking-] lankow railway to Kao Pei-ticn (52 miles)
and from there a branch line of 25 miles to Liang- ko Chuang.
about one hour’s journey from the tombs. The railwav
was built to enable the Emperor of China to visit the tomb'
of his ancestors. As on a visit to Jeliol or the Eastern
tombs, one must make arrangements through his legation for
a permit. Bedding and servants must he taken from Peking
The cost of the trip will be about for each member of the
party.
The tombs are all in a park enclosed by a wall about
KALGAN
233
twenty miles in circuit. The burial place is a natural amphi-
theater formed by the Hsi Shan, and in a general way, is
much like the Ming tombs or the Eastern Tombs, though
more beautiful because of the fide park. The Imperial tombs
are the burial places of : Yung Cheng (1723-1735), Cliia Ch’ing
(1796-1820), Tao Kuaiig (1820-1850), and Kwang Hsu
(1875-1908). This is the burial place of many others of the
Imperial family, including the twenty wives of Yung Cheng
and 14 of the 17 wives of Chia Ch’ing.
Eastern Tombs. — This burial place of some of the
Manchu rulers is reached by \vay of the railway from Peking
to Tung-chow (15 miles) and a journey on horseback for the
remaining 64 miles, or it may be combined with the trip to
Jehol. Going direct from Peking, after leaving the railway
at Tung-chow, one passes through the following villages:
Yen-chiao, 6 miles; Ma-chia-fa, 9 miles; Pai-fu-tu, 18 miles;
San ho-hsien, 21 miles ; Tuan-chia-ying, 26 miles ; Pang-chun,
32 miles; Chi-chow, 40 miles; Lin-ho-chuang, (crossing of
the Lin Ho), 55 miles; Shih Men, 59 miles.
The Eastern tombs bear a striking re.5or,ihlancc to the
Ming tombs near Nankow, and the other imperial burial
places in China. The seven cemeteries arc located in a great
natural amphitheater of mountains twenty miles in extent.
The imperial graves number 54, in which lie the bodies of
emperors, empresses, princes, princesses and concubines.
The principal groups are approached by long roads bordered
with stone images of animals and men similar to those at the
Ming tombs. Among the sovereigns buried here arc : Shun
chill (1643-1661), Kang Hsi (1662-1722), Chien Lung (1736-
J795), Hsien Feng (1850-1861), T’ung-chih (1862-1875).
Kalgan.— The building of the Peking-Kalgan railway
has brought this city on the edge of Mongolia within easy
reach of travelers. Hotel, Kalgan, 5 minutes from the
railway station. The railway between Peking and Kalgan
traverses a distance of 124 miles and is gradually being
pushed farther to the west. Fare from Peking, first class,
$13.20; second class, $8.60.
Kalgan is among the cities recently opened to
234
tiAXDBOOK rOR CHINA
foreign trade and quite a number of foreign concerns are
already established there. It lias long been an important
caravan station through which tea is shipped to Russia and
]\Iong(dia and the meeting place of many camel trains travel-
ing between Peking and Urga. The railway will eventually
he completed to Urga, now distant a twelve days' journey by
camel, llctorc the building of the Trans-Siberian railway
the tea trade with Russia passed through here and the very
extensive compounds, with their high mud walls, which at
that time were the centers for tea transportation, are still to
he seen in the western part of the city.
Chihli Province.— Chihli Province has an area of 1 15.000
square miles, and a population of 20 millions. About half of
the area lies outside the great wall and is thinly populated by
Mongols, governed by Mongol princes. The greater part
of the province is a dead level plain, the northern part of that
great plain which stretches along the cast coast of the country
for 7{)() miles to the south through lionan to tlic Yangtszc.
In the northeast are many rugged hills. The climate is
invigorating, tlic summers being intensely hot and the winter?
intensely cold. Indeed, there arc few places where such
extremes of temperature are met, the summer temperature
often rising as high as at Hongkong, while in the winter
zero weather is common. The principal cities are: Peking,
1 icnt^in, d nngchow, Jeiiol, Clicngtingfu, and Shaiihaikwan.
Jehol.— This old summer residence of tb.e Emperors of
China is 144 miles noi tlicast of J’eking. The distance can I)e
made in from four to six days with good saddle horses and
pack animals. An clVieient interpreter is necessary for the
success of the journey. Chinese iniii are to be found at con-
venient points along the route. It is important before leaving
Peking to secure the necessary pcriuission to visit the Imperial
palaces, etc.
The town of Jehol <lcrives its name from an abbreviation
of the name of the stream, Je-Iio-erh, “hot river,” oil
which it is located. Tiiis river, a tril)utary of the Luan Ho,
is realCv hardy lukewariii. Tlie ^itj of the city is beautiful,
on a bend of t!io stream and surrouiiJeJ by mountains which
JEHOL
235
shelter it from the north winds in winter and afford a means
rf escaping from the heat in summer. Emperor Kang Hsi
’ egan the construction of the Summer Palace in Jehol in
1703; his successors, Emperors Yung Cheng and Chien Eung
further beautified the spot and it was occupied as an Imperial
ummer residence until September i, 1820, when Emperor
Chia Ch’ing, while staying there, was struck by lightning
This was considered an evil omen and the place was aban-
doned for forty years, until 1860, when Emperor ITsicn Feng
fled there at the time Peking was occupied by the Anglo-
French troops. lie died in less than a year after reaching
jehol rnd this event proved to the Imperial Clan the correct-
ness of their previous conclusions regarding llic evil influences
f tlie place, so tint in 1900 the Court did not lice to Jehol but
to Sianfu instead. For the same reason the Court refused to
ronsider taking refuge there during the Republican Revolution
nf 1911-12.
The principal entrance to the imperial estates is about
an hour’s walk north of Jehol. The park is enclosed by
high hatllemcnted walls six miles in circuit, the entrance
i;ate being guarded by the usual stone lions. It was at the
Imperial residence in this park that the embassy of Lord
Macartney was received in 1793 by Emperor Chien Lung.
The re.sidcnccs ami other Ijiiildings arc now in disrepair and
generally in a dilapidated condition, tliough this is not appar-
ent from any dibtaiicc, The view from any vantage ground is
delightful ; gifded domes of kio.^^ks. brilliantly painted l)ridges,
pagoda towers, and many colored buildings, rising in tiers on
the lower slopes of tlie hillsides, arc to be seen through the
shining greenery of the cedars. The phoenix and the dragon
arc represented over and over again in the architectural
‘Icsigns, while massive pink lions guard each highly ornamented
terrace. The lake covered with i)cautiful islands is fed by
shaded creeks and led into many canal.? crossed by fantastic
footbridges. The imperial residence itself is composed not
of a single building but of more than thirty structures scat-
tered about the park, all located with a fine regard to the
beauty of the whole scheme, no matter from what point it is
236
HANBOOK FOR CHINA
viewed. As is usual in Chinese parks and gardens, there are
many labyrinthine walks and grottoes constructed of artificial
stone. There is nothing remarkable about the villa.^
themselves, though they contain many interesting memenU;
of the sovereigns who occupied them, the walls of some bein
almost covered with inscriptions by Chien Lung and other
Emperors who spent their spare time in writing poetry.
Among the features of the place is a nine story pagoda
completed in 1764, and containing inscriptions in Chinese.
Manchu, Mongol and Tibetan, recording the fact that tlu
structure was erected in commemoration of the conquest oi
Zungari. The Imperial theater, surrounded by balconies, is
reached by a handsome marble bridge. Two richly endowed
Buddhist monasteries were built in 1770 and 1779 as rcplic.'u
of famous Tibetan convents located at Lhasa and Chigatsc,
One of the temples bears a striking resemblance to the Temple
of Heaven in Peking. Each is occupied by hundreds ui
Lama priests.
Returning from Jchol the traveler may follow the sani^.*
route as that by which he came, or go to Peking byway of th.(
Tung T,ing or Eastern Tombs. Another route is by boat
far as Luan Chow which is on the railway between Tientsin
and Shanhaikwan. The boat journey will take from two t ’
live days.
One of the first railways that wifi be built in these part
will no doubt be I lie one from Tungclunv to Jeliol which will
then he within easy access from Peking.
Sianfu. — At Honan fu the traveler to Western Chin
leaves the railway for more primitive conveyances for tl <
journey to the ancient city of Sianfu, the capital and mo-,
important city of Sliensi, and the most interesting city, hi^
torically, in all China. Sianfu is on the Yellow* River, tin
same distance from the sea that Hankow is on the Yangts/ -.
but the Yellow River unlike the Yangtsze is not navigable,
and Sianfu has acquire<l its present importance by overland
trade, which is almost entirely domestic. The population .>i
the city is about one million. It has no foreign Irotels and
the number of foreign residents is very small.
SIANFU
237*
Sianfu or a neighboring city was the capital of the
country on several occasions, and it was near here that, ac-
.ording to some authorities, the founders of the Chinese race
i-st settled, spreading out from here to all parts of Eastern
Asia. The city was in its prime as the capital of the Tang
dynasty, when it was known as Siking. Under the name
)f Cha’ng*an, it was the capital of the Empire from B. C.
206 to A. D. 605, when the capital was moved to Honan.
It was near here that the books of the country wore burned
hy Shih-Hvvang-ti (B. C. 24o>209). As late as 1900, the city
'^erved as the capital of the country, for the Empress Dowa-
ijer and Emperor Kwang-Hsu fled here during the Boxer
troublei.
‘‘Sianfu was the starting point of all those religious
movements which have intiuenced in any degree the immo-
bility of the Chinese nation. Here Mohammedanism found
its entrance, first success and permanent hold. Here a colony
of the sons of Israel came to their perpetual hanishment
among the sons of Han. Here Buddhism, under royal
patronage, first established its real sway. Here six hundred
years later when the Greek Emperor Pheodosius, the princes
of Central Asia and the rulers of India and Persia were send-
ing their envoys with presents to the Imperial court in Sianfu,
came the apostles of Ncstoriaiusni to propagate the Christian
creed.”
The walls which surround Sianfu arc about ten miles in
circuit, and thirty feet Idgli, .surmounted by watch tow'crs of
equal height. They are visible for many miles across the
oess plain on which the city is built. The present walks date
from the reign of the founder of the Ming dynasty. Hung
Wu (1368-1399), who also gave the city the name it ha.s-
since retained. The towers were a<3ded iji 1526. The four
gates are built at the cardinal points of the compass and the
Tai tar City is separated from the Chinese City hy a wall
Soon after the outbreak of the recent revolution, the Chinese
attacked the Manchus here anJ the dc.iths which followed
have been estimated at 20, OdO probably more than in all of
the fighting in Hankow and Xanking.
238
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
The neighborhood of the city abounds in tombs, monu-
ments and other relies of great antiquity. Many of the early
Yellow Emperors are buried here, though the marks of their
tombs have long since been effaced and few of them can
be identified with any degree of certainty. It was here that
one of the rulers of China was buried with such a wealth (jf
gold and silver that his sons feared the temptation it would
offer to robbers and constructed many other grave mounds
that no one could tell which contained the treasure. Tlu*
large number of tumuli in the vicinity give credence to thr
legend. Shih-Hwang-ti (B. C. 246-209) is buried at the city
of Lint’unghsien, 15 miles cast of Sianfu. It was this cm
peror who soi ght to begin the history of China anew 1)>
burning all tlie books of the country and to keep out tlu*
Mongols ami th.' Tartars by building the Great Wall. Hi^
tomb was so magnificent that it passed into a proverb and
formed the basis for some Arabian Xitjhts tales. It was
fifty feet high and a mile and a half in circumference.
Near the city is buried Wu Tse-ticn, the only Empress who
ever ruled over Ciiina in her own name. In the Manchu
(luartcr stands a stone on which is imprinted the figure of i
human hand, somewhat larger than life size. According to
legend, this mark was left by the Empress. Sianfu or a
ncighhoring city is reputed to have been the birthplace of
tlie legendary Fu TIsi.
South of the 'i'artar City is the famous Fei Lin. o-'
“Forest of Stones.” a collection of more than 1400 moini
ments on which the liistory of tlic place for 2000 years ha;-
been inscribed, some iif the records being pictorial. Tin
best • known of tlioi-c monuments is the Xestorian Tablet,
which bears the date of A. I). 781 and gives in 2000 Chinc.'^c
characters a record of the cstahli-hinent in China “of tlie
illustrious religion of Syria.” This, the only knowni recoi <1
of that early effort to Christianize China, was found by .‘•c i:i '
workmen in 1625 and was placed in the Pci Lin.
Ten miles from Pinchou, northwest of Sianfu, there is a
famous image of Buddha, carved out of the living rock. The
image is forty feet high, and a pendant image is larger than
shUasi province 23^
iite size. The work is said to belong to the T’aiig dynasty
(618-906 A. D.).
Of the many rich shops in the city, probably the most
notable are the furriers. Curio shops ai.»ouiuh where the
irticlcs offered for sale are usually of much greater antiquity
than those found in the shops near the const. As the place
iu\s been untouched by tourist travel, prices arc comparatively
low.
Sianfu has a laiqjc .Moslem population and is hcadquartert
for the Mohammedanism of the north. The Mohammedan
mosque, dating from the second century, is worthy of note.
During the great Mohammedan rebellion of 1861-1876,
Sianfu held out while every other city and village for miles
around was razed. Extensive bituminous coal fields c.xist
near Sianfu, awaiting the arrival of a railway lo make their
development possible. Missions: English Daptist and Scan-
dinavian Alliance.
Shensi Province. — The province of Shensi has an area of
75,270 square miles and a population of 8 millions. Th.;
northern two-thirds of the province is cut off from ihc
southern third by the 'i'singling range which is a labyrinth
of hills and liigh m<»nntains, some of ihe peaks rising to
heights of 12,000 feet. The general altitude is 8,500 feet.
Some of the streams, in tiiis broad range fall 600 feet in 30
miles The northern slopes are steep and cold and the
southern slopes are gentle and lie in a temperate climate.
The range is crossed by two important trade routes. The
valley of the Yellow River is mostly a dry and barren area,
vhilc the valley of the Wei is important agriculturally. On
die whole the soil of the province produces fine crops, jiro-
vided the rains arc abundant, but in time of drouth famines
ensue. One of the wor.^^t famines in the recent history of
China was that in Shensi which followed soon after the Boxer
uprising. In some of the districts the death rate was 70% and
despite the expenditure of almost £1,000,000 in relief, the
deaths Were about 21 million. The province suffered severely
during the Mohammedan rebellion of 1874, which is estimated
to have swept away about half the population. Immigration
240
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
has since been encouraged by the government, with tl..'
result that “the population is practically representative c :
the greater half of China, for there are immigrants fro: .
Shansi, Shantung, Honan, Hupeh, Szechuan, and Yunnan '
Salt, nickel, gold and iron are found in the province. Tlu
best known industries are “iron work at Tungkwan, stru'.
plaiting at Hwayinmiao. Incense sticks and bamboo furnitur*'
at Chihshui, and coal at Weinan Hsien.”
The Loess Plain. — On any road to Sianfu one pass* ^
through a part of the great loess district of western and centr;.!
Cliina, which stretches through the provinces of Shensi, Shansi
and Kansu. The area covered by the loess was estimated h,,
Baron Richthofen to be 375,000 square miles. North of
Sianfu the deposit attains a maximum depth of 1000 feet.
Through this loess deposit small streams have made canyons
sometimes several hundred feet deep. The roads through tln\
plain are especially atrocious, being quagmires in the rainr
season and deep with dust in the dry.
According to Richthofen and other authorities, loess is
the dust of northern Asia produced long ago and blown ovor
north China by the prevailing winds. This fine powdery
material mixed with sand covers what was the original surface
of the land with a varying depth which is often several hun
dred feet. Rivers in the loess country sweep through tlii^
loose material and find their beds on the original soil beneath,
with the result that all flow between steep, precipitous bank^
The soil is so rich that no fertilization is needed, as in othci*
parts of China, and with suitable rainfall abundant crops arc
produced, but crop failures from drouth are not uncommon.
According to a local belief, there is a small famine cv€r\
three years and a large one every ten.
A striking feature of the loess country is the vertical
cleavage of the soil. From a height, the plain appears to
stretch away for miles unbroken by any depression, but on
closer examinatiun, it is found to be full of ravines, many of
them sc''eral hundred feet deep and only a few yards wide.
Crops here arc not the same as in the south, millet, wheat, oats,
.corn and sweet potatoes taking the place of rice as staples.
TAlYUSNfU
241
Laacliowfu,— West of Shensi in the province of Kansu,
very thinly populated, is the far western capital of Lanchow-
fu, with a population of 500,000. Being so near to the high
Mongolian plateau, Kansu suffers great extremes of heat and
cold. Two roads connect Lanchowfu and Sianfu, the most
important being the northern. It was formerly a beautiful
thoroughfare, bordered by trees.
The trip from Hankow to Lanchowfu occupies about
two months, it being necessary to travel by cart from Honan-
fu. Lanchowfu is situated on the Yellow River which is
crossed by a bridge of boats in the summer and by ice in
winter. The China Inland Mission has a station with several
missionaries in this city.
Paotinffu— This city, 91 miles from Peking on the
Peking-Hankow Railway, was formerly the official capital of
Chihli, but with the growing importance of Tientsin, that city
has usurped practically all the functions of the provincial
capital. The city is enclosed by a wall four miles in circuit
built in 1402, and has a population of 80,000. It is the
location of a modern university, founded in 1901, and is ah
important center for missionary work. During the Boxer
trouble twenty-five foreigners, mostly American mission-
aries, were massacred here. The sacred mountain of Wu-
tai-shan, about 115 miles distant, can be reached in five
stages. It is visited more conveniently from Ting-chow.
Taiyuenfu.— This city, the capital of Shansi, is the
terminus of the Cheng Tai Railway, running from Cheng-
tingfu, where connection is made with the through trains of
the Peking-Haiikow line. Chengtingfu* is 152 miles from
Peking, and Tainyuenfu is 325 miles from Peking by rail.
The Cheng Tai line passes through a moimtainoiis section of
the country, of great scenic beauty. Population of Taiyuen-
fu, 100,000. There are two hotels of semi-foreign style.
The city is surrounded by a wall eight miles in circuit,
being laid out like the Tartar city of Peking. Two broad
* Spelled Tcheng Ting Fou on the railway time tables anJ also spelled
Che-Kia-Tcbouana.
242
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
streets run north and south and two east and west, connect-
ing the eight gates and dividing the city into rectangles. Some
of the fine streets are bordered with very old trees. The
place is of interest to foreigners because of the fact that it
was the scene of one of the most bloody massacres of the
Boxer uprising. Forty-five missionaries of Shansi were in-
duced to come to the capital and place themselves under the
protection of the governor. But as soon as all were there,
tiicy were treacherously massacred by llie ofrkials. Altogether
more than seventy missionaries, Catholic and Protestant, were
killed The Empress Dow^ager on her flight from Peking
stopped here and listened eagerly to the stories of the
tortures which had been applied to the missionaries. The
missionboards. invited by the Chinese government to settle on
an indemnity for the massacre. suggeUed that a fine of a half
million taels he exacted, not as an indemnity for the lives of
the missionaries, hut to estaldish a modern university to
remove the cause cd hostility, ignoiMine. It was also the
missionary who urged the oi)cning of tlu' railway as another
help toward progress. Since tliat time tlic railway has been
built, a number of foreigners have taken up residence lier'e, a
modern university with foreign facilities has liecii established
and tlie whole aspect of the place changed so far as the
interests of foreigners are concerned. In hl07 a permanent
exposition was opened here for the display of the product'
of tlie province, which include canids’ hair rugs, furs, cotton
goods, poUery, jewelry, carved furniture, ores, etc. At the
present time the city is well Vniown \hrongh<mt China as the
residence of Tl. E. Yen H>i Shan, Vviio Ims earned the title of
“the niodcl governor of Chin?..”
He. has introduced many reforms and the reactionary cits
of twenty years ago has became one of th.c nio^t progressive.
“One of the mountain peaks ot tlie plain is pointed out
as the ‘ Ararat ’ of China, and is commonly called Jen-tsu-
shall (Mountain of the Ancestors of Man), and the story is
told that ivhen the whole race were destroyed by a great
flood, two persons saved their lives by jumping on the backs
of two mighty lions, and were carried by them to the topmost
PEKING -MUKDEN RAILWAY.
PEKING-MOUKDEN-RAILWAr
243
ledpre of this mountain, and thus saved from the general de-
struction. These two afterwards became the parents of the
whole human race. On the top of this mountain is a very
old temple.”
Eighty miles north of Taiyuenfu is the sacred mountain
of Wu-tai shan, visited the whole year round by a steady
stream of pilgrims from all parts of the country, some coming
from Mongolia and Tibet
The elevated plain to the south of Taiyuenfu is covered
with villages. ^Many coal mines in the vicinity have been
worked by primitive methods for centuries. It lias been
estimated that the anthracite resources of Shansi and adjacent
territory arc equal to those of Pennsylvania and with the
development of mining this will be one of the richest sections
of China.
Pektng-Moukden Railway. — Tliis line of the Chinese
government railway system maintains a regular daily service
between Peking and Moukden. with an additional tlirough
train which in conjunction with the South Manchuria and the
Chinese Eastern railways, connects with the Trans-Siherian
through service to Europe. In addition to the regular fare on
this “train dc luxe,” seat tickets and sleeping herlh fees must
be added. Meals arc served on the train. Special reduced
rates are available from Scptemlier 30 to leister, for round
trip tickets from Peking to certain points in North Cliina
and Manchuria.
Principal points on the Peking-Moukden Line arc;
Miles from Mjlrs from
Peking
0
J’‘eking (sec page 199)
523
84
Tientsin (Central
439
87
Tientsin iCast (sec page 244)
436
114
Tangku
499
168
Tang shall
455
241
Pcitailio (sec page 247)
282
251
Truiglio. change for Chinwangtao
272
(sec page J47)
Shanhaikuaii (see page 248)
262
261
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
244
396
Chinchoufu
127
416
Koupangtzu change for Newchwang
(see page . 55)
107
486
Hsinminfu
37
522
Fcngtien (Moukden) (see page 248)
(S. M. R. Station)
1
523
Moukden (Fcngtien)
(C. C. S. Station)
0
Tientsin.— Located at the junction of the Pciho river
and the Grand Canal, about 80 miles from Peking and -10
miles from the coast. Fare from Shanghai, by coast steamers,
$60. Railway fare from Peking, first class $5.20, second
$3.25. Northern terminus of the Ticntsin*Pukow railway,
about 640 miles, owticd by the Chinese government. There
are three railway stations, Tientsin Central, Tientsin West
and Tient.siii Fast. The latter is nearer to the hotels, while
passengers to and from Peking cliange cars at Tientsin Central.
Post olTiccs, British, French, Japanese and Russian. Con-
sulates, (ircat Britain, United States, Belgium, Denmark,
France. Italy, Japan, Netherlands-, Russia, Sweden. Tram-
car. s, rieshas, and carriages take one to any part of the city.
Population,, about 1 million which includes about 10.000
{orcigners. Hotels: Imperial, Astor House.
As the river port for the capital and the entrepot for all
the northern provinces, Tientsin has for centuries played a
most important part in the commerce of China. It has been
ecpially impoitant from a military standpoint, for it is the key
to the capital and has figured prominently in all of the many
attacks on J\*!<ing. Sificc 1910 it has been the capital of the
province of Chihli. Because of the windings of the river,
'Tientsin was formerly 56 miles, by water, from the sea.
'Through an elaborate improvement scheme, this distance has
been reduced to 47 miles, from which an additional nine
miles will be clipped when the scheme is completed. The
Chinese population is made up almost entirely of traders and
merchants, Tientsin having but few manufacturing concerns.
Of late years the city has become an educational center. Li
Hunij Chang made this his residence and, under the favor of
TIENTSIN
245
Peking, ruled over Tientsin and the surrounding country like
a feudal lord. Under his leadership, Tientsin became known
as a center of reform. It was here that he tried his experi-
ments in education and army reforms — policies which were
later ably carried out by the famous old viceroy’s protege.
Yuan Shill K’ai.
The oldest foreign concession in Tientsin is the British,
which was established in 1860. The plans for the settlement
were drawn by General "‘Chinese ” Gordon, whose name has
been given to the principal administration hall. At the same
time France was allotted a concession. The Japanese, after
the war of 1895, received a concession and since 190l) other
concessions have been granted to Germany, Russia, Austria
and Belgium.
Walls were built around the place in 1403, and remained
until 1901, the year following the Boxer outbreak, when they
were pulled down by order of the foreign provisional govern •
incnt. The ground they occupied was utilized for the build-
ing of a fine thoroughfare, while the material contained in the
walls was used for railway ballast. During the Boxer outbreak,
the Chinese government sent troops against the foreign con-
cessions of Tientsin, whicli were Iicsicged for 27 daws until
the city was taken by the Allied troops. The city was
governed hy an international cnniniission from 1900 to 1907,
and during this time many important public works were
completed.
The railway to Peking was built in 1897 and proved
such a success that the track was doubled the following year.
The building of this railway, the tearing down of the city
walls, and the good example set by the fine foreign conces-
sions have led to great improvements in the Chinc.se City.
Broad streets have been laid out and kept in a good state of
repair, and a tramway system built reaching to almost every
part of the town. Many of the old temples have been turned
into modern schools, devoted to Western learning.
The treaty of 1858 was drawn up at the Sea View Bud-
dhist Temple, one of the show places of Tientsin, hut the
largest aud most imposing temple in the city was built as a
246
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
memorial to hi Hung CImng. It is surrounded by extensive
grounds laid out in the miniature landscape effect of which
the Chinese arc so fond. It is located in the rear of the
Viceroy’s yamen. An excellent view of the city may be ob-
tained from the Drum Tower in the center of the Chinese
City.
On tlic way to Tientsin from the coast, Taku will be
passed at the mouth of the Peiho, on the southern bank of
l!ic river. It is memorable as being the former location of
the Taku forts, several times the point of attack by foreign
forces. Under the protocol following tlie Poxcr troubles, the
forts were demolished, (‘hina agreeing not to fortify or to
maintain troops on tlic route I)etwccn the capital and the sea.
A large number of foreign trt)ops arc usually quartered in
Tientsin. The city formerly enjoyed some prominence and
prosperity through the fact that it was the shipping point for
the tribute rice coming to Peking from the southern prov-
inces. This was shipped to Tientsin as the northern terminrs
^)f the Grand Canal and thcncc transported to the cai)ital 1 nr
with the development of railways and steamship lines tl e
Grand Canal is no longer used.
For route of the Ticntsin-Pukoic line see hoge
for fehiny-Mnukden line see page
The Grand Canal. — Pike tlie Great Wall of China, t!i'‘
Grand Canal remains as evidence of tlie advanced state ('i
civilization in China twenty centuries ago. ‘ This great
ongiiteering work extends from Hangcliow in Chekian.
Province, to 'rientsin on the Gulf of Chihli, a distance of (k"
miles. The section between the Yang and liic Yellow Kivcv
wa.s begun about 4S.s B. C., that is 24 years after the Repiildic
of Ivome was established and during tb.c most glorious tim '
of Atlicns. It was not until more than a thousand yeari
Igtcr that the section south of the Yangtszc was built, while
the w'ork was completed on tlie Northern section in the
thirteenth century. Kublai Khan is often credited with tl..'
construction of the Grand Canal, but parts of it were in us-
long before his time.
CHIX-WANC-TAO
247
It is variously known by the Chinese as the Yuho (Im-
j)erial River), Yiin-lio, (Transport River), or Yun-liang-ho
(Tribute-Hearing River). Until recent years a large amount
of rice was sent through the Grand Canal from the Vang-
tsze \’alley provinces to Peking, but \n ith the partial silting
up of the canal, tiic coast steamship lines have usurped
that function. With the completion of the Tientsin-Pukow
Railway, Tientsin and Hangchow are now connected by rail
and the usefulness of the Graml Canal is lesstliaii ever before.
Peitaiho. — This summer resort, whicli is very popular
with foreign residents of North China and draws many visi-
tors from the Vangtsze Valley, is north-east of Tientsin. 240
miles from Peking on the Peking-Mouk ien line. (Pare from
Peking, lirst class $14.45, second class $9.05. Prom Tientsin
$9.25 and $5.75). The resort is on the seacoast, live miles
from the railway station of the same name and nine miles
from the port of Cliin-wang-tao. It may be reached from the
station in one hour l)y either carriage, donkey or cliair. The
climate is dry and bracing and is especially line during the
summer montlis when the temperature is about ten degrees
lower than in Peking, 'i'he excellent sea batiiing which is
enjoyed along the extensive hc:ich <lr.ring about six m >nths
of the year and the magnilicent scenery add to tlie poj)ularity
of the place as a summer resort. The vicinity oi Peitailio
abounds in delightful v.alk^ and game i.s picul’ ful in the
neighborhood.
ChiA-wang'tao. — I.s tlie terminus of a lailway ot’crated
by tlie Kailan Mining \dmiui-tr.ition from Tangho. on the
Peking M<juk(|cn line. It is :ds*j the northern terminus of the
steamship line from .Sliangaai. operate'I by the .same coinpatiy.
Pare to Shanghai $40.
Chin-waug tao wa^ opened to foreign trade in hut
owing to tiic Pioxer troubles a cu-,tomsdiousc wa.i nut set up
until three years later. .‘\ breakwater, cuiistructcd by the
admirals of the allied fleet in lOQl. has hcen jiiirchased hy the
Kailan Mining ,\dministration. This is the only part of tlie
Gulf of I’echili which is not ice hound at any time of the
year. It is an impc rtant point fur the shipincnt of coal.
248
handbook for china
Moukden (Fenglien.*)— This city, the capital of Man-
churia, has a population of about 200,000 Chinese, a few
thousand Japanese and about one hundred foreigners of
otlier nationalities. Moukden was nominally opened as a
treaty port by treaty between China and the United Slates in
1903 but as the Russo-Japanese War broke out soon after
that it was not actually opened until three years later. Three
railways meet here. It is on the main line of the South Man-
churia Railway, whicli extends from Dalny and Port Arthur
in the south and at Changchun connects with the Chinese
Eastern Railway and with the Trans-Siberian route. The
branch of the South Manchuria Railway from Antung con-
nects here wdth the main line. At Antung on the Korean
border it connects with the Korean railways and thence with
the railway system of Japan. Moukden is also the northern
terminus of the I’ching-Moukdcn line of the Chinese govern-
ment railways. There are two railway stations, the Fengtien
station of the South iVfanchuria line and the Sheng Yang
station of the Peking-Moukden line. Important trains of the
latter line proceed to the Fengtien station, winch is the
more conveniently located of the two. The Vamato Hotel,
conducted hy tlic South Manchuria ivailway, is a part of the
station building. As it is likely to be crowded at the arrival
of express trains, rooms should be engaged in advance. A
tram line connects the station with the city, distant about
.three milc.s, or Russian carriages may be secured. The usuai
fare is $1 an hour or 86 for an entire day. Mule' carts are
useful in carrying baggage and rieshas may be had at
the station or in any part of the city. The consulates,
French, British, Japanese, Russian and American are
situated outside the west wall of the city in or near the
‘'Foreign Settlement.” In addition to the Chinese post office,
there is a Japanese post office in tlie city, with a branch office
near the station. On the Japanese railway and at the Japan-
* Moukden, the name most frequently used by foreigners, is an
adaptation of the old Mancha name. Fengtien is the Chinese name of
the rity. The foreign name is frequently spelled Mukden,
M0UR9£N
249
se post office only Japanese money is accepted, or Chinese
noney at a discount. The Chinese railway accepts Mexican
r Chinese dollars. The one coin in general use in Moukden
^ the small ten-cent piece, 11 to 12 of them being equal
!i) a Mexican dollar. Throughout Manchuria paper notes are
ssued for 10 ten-cent pieces, and all the shops reckon in this
iullar, which is 8 or 9 per cent Icss^ than the Mexican or
Chinese dollar.
This ancient birthplace of the Manchu dynasty, which
• uled China for so long, is the largest and most important
v'ity in Manchuria, and is of great historical interest and
l^olitical import Mice. It was here that Nurhachu the Manchu
.diieftain, established himself in 1625, after effecting a con-
tederation of the tribes of the neighborhood and from here
he conducted his successful campaign against China which
resulted in the establishment of the Manchu dynasty. Before
that time the capital of the Maiichus had been at Hsing-
ching, about 100 miles cast of Moukden. Wlicn Peking
surrendered in 1644, the government was transferred to
that city, but Moukden has always retained an official im-
portance greater than that of other provincial capitals.
On arrival at Moukdrn station nothing is seen of the
city itself, as the nearest point is nearly three miles away
to the cast. The station is surrounded by the Japanese
settlement, with many fine new buildings, among %Ybich
the most conspicuous arc the hospital and medical school
belonging to the South Manchuria Railway. The southern
of the two good roads leading to the city passes a large
monument erected to the memory of the Japanese soldiers
who fell ill the battle of Moukden which was fought f.'om,
February 19 to March 14, 1905. Near the northern road is a
monument to the Russian soldiers. Between the two roads
are situated most of the consulates, a small English church
and other foreign buildings.
Entering Moukden by either of these two western roads,
one passes through an oramcntal iron gateway, which has
taken the place of the old gate through the outer wall. The
other gates are closed at night, and a military guard is sta-
250
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
tioncfl at all gates, This outer wall is built of mud and is
about 11 miles in circumference, but it is now broken down
ill mriny places so that pedestrians may cross. A mile or
more inside this rampart stands the inner city, a little more
than a mile square and surrounded by a massive battlenientcd
brick and stone wall, 40 feet high and 30 feet wide at the
summit. Until recent years there was a high tower over each
gate, but only one of these now stands. Interesting views of
the city may be had from several points on the wall, but
there is no walk around the top of it. 'I'he space between
the inner and outer walls is called the suburbs and is the
residential part of Moukden.
liroad main .streets nm through the city connecting the
eight gates, their most noteworthy feature being the large
arti.'dic shop signs which extend high above the fronts of
the shoi)s and arc ornamented with brilliantly colored
peacocks, dragon.s, birds and other designs, d'wo towers are
con^picuou.s, breaking the line of the more northern street
from cast to west, the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower.
The former contains the old drum beaten to summon the
guard to tlie defense of the city; the latter contains a large
boll sounded slowly ft)r curfew and more rapidly when there
is a serious lire. The more easterly of the two, the Bell
Tower (Chung I.ow or J<'ong Bow) can be ascended and
alTords a good view. 'J'he street between these towers is the
princiiial one in the city.
In the center of the city stands the old imperial palace of
Nurhachu (Chin-lan-ticn or Jin-lan-dyen) , well worth a visit
although the tinique collection of okl porcelain and Manchu
anti(iuities for which the place was formerly famous has
been removed to Teking. The buildings are just as when
used by the Manchu conquerors, though they might be kept
in better repair. The throne room and the summer pavilion
with its high roofs and balconies arc especially interesting.
A pass to visit the palaces must be obtained through one’s
consul. No charge is made but a tip is usually given to
the custodian. One entire side of the street, immediately
south of the palace is occupied by handsome government
MOUKDEN
251
: -lildings, all erected since 1905, the central entrance bein^
that of the governor's yamen. Most of the prominent build-
lags inside the city belong to the government, such as the law
chool, Bank of China, (near the west wall,) a large girls^
^chool near the east wall, etc.
In the southeast corner of the city wall is a curious old
lelicof nature worship, a temple to the fox. There is a
(ieep hole or cave in which the animal or its spirit is sup-
posed to dwell. Twenty years ago crowds went to this temple
lor healing, and there are many tablets erected by grateful
jiatients, but of late years it has been neglected and has
fallen into ruins. A short distance from this temple the
Boxers had their headquarters where many Cliincse Chris-
tians were killed.
Less than a mile east of the inner wall is a stretch of
water called the Small River. In summer the river bank
becomes the favorite pleasure resort of Moukden and is
worth visiting in the afternoons to see the crowds in the
booths, the pleasure boats moving slowly about, and the lotus
lilies growing in profusion on the surface of the water.
Farther north, near the outer wall, is an interesting Buddhist
temple, the “Tien Hsi Miao." The Buddhist l.clls may be
seen here at any time, and the huge images of Buddha
and his satellites, also the covered walk by which he goes
from one image to another. Worshippers frc(}uent the
temple only on the 1st and 15th of each moon, usually early
in the day. ‘
Outside the city, the most interesting sight is the tomb
of Nurhachu’s son, called the North Tomb (or Pei
Ling.) To visit this a pass is necessary. The tornh is cn a
plain a few miles to the northwest of the city and may he
reached by carriage or riesha. The main approach to the
tomb from the south is well worth walking along, though
forbidden to vehicles. In front of the triple south gate
which is kept closed is a fine archway of fretted white
marble. Visitors alight at the guard-house before the wes-
tern gate of the enclosure. Inside the wall are beautiful
avenues of old pines, curious stone animals, an artificial hill
252
HANDBOOK tOR CHINA
with fine glimpses of the surrounding country from its top,
and a second wall with battlements and towers. The gate:
of this inner enclosure will be opened by the custodian who
shows the party round and who should receive a tip. En-
trance is not allowed to the innermost enclosure surrounding
the tomb itself, a circular mound. In front of its gate is an
interesting erection where sacrifices are offered to the spirit
of the dead. Outside the outer wall lie extensive woods, in
which, to the northwest, one may find a smaller tomb, that
of the wife of the Emperor. The best time to visit this
North Tomb is in May or June on a cloudless day, but it is
beautiful in sunshine at any time, and an ideal spot for a
picnic. The Manchu custodians who live in a little house
at the gate are very obliging and will provide boiling water
for tea.
About seven miles to the east of the city is the tomb
of Nurhachu himself, called the East Tomb (or Tung
Ling.) It is liner and has more extensive and more
picturesque woods than the North Tomb, but the road lead-
ing to it from Moukden is bad and for that’ reason it is
seldom visited.
Close to the outer wall of the city is a Christian Arts
College, carried on unitedly by the three Protestant missions
at work in Manchuria, the United Free Church of Scotland,
the Irish Presbyterian Church, and the Danish Lutheran
Church. There is also a Union Theological Hall. Neir
these and inside the wall are a Chinese Christian church and
the buildings of the Irish Presbyterian Mission. Outside
the brick wall in the south suburb stands the Roman Catho-
lic Cathedral, a conspicuous building with graceful twin
spires. All the buildings connected with the mission arc
gathered round it—schools, orphanage, priests’ seminary,
convent, etc. This mission was established by French priests
in 1832 and now numbers about 50,000 converts in Manchuria.
Immediately outside the east gates is the largest Protestant
Church in Manchuria, attended by from 500 to 700 Chinese
Christians every Sunday. The congregation is governed
and financed entirely by the Chinese. It is a part of the
MOUKDEN
25J
Presbyterian church of Manchuria and was established by
ihe United Presbyterian, now the United Free Church of
Scotland, which began work in Manchuria in 1872. On the
banks of the Small River are the premises of the United
Free Mission (Scottish) which includes the largest hospital
in North China (140 beds for men and boys) a woman's
liospital (70 beds) Girls’ Normal College and school, and a
number of dwelling bouses. Besides the hospital there is the
Moukden Medical College, a large handsome collection of
buildings opened in 1912. The three missions unite in this
institution, which is also supported by the government of
Manchuria.
The country surrounding Moukden is very rich agricul-
turally and the city is next only to Yingkou in its importance
as a centre for the manufacture of bean oil and bean cake.
The annual production of oil is about 13 million pounds and
of bean cake about 100 million pounds. A large part of
the oil is used in Manchuria or shipped to China, while
Japan takes practically all of the bean cake for use as
fertilizer.
Thirty miles to the northeast of Moukden is the Fushun
colliery, now under Japanese ownership. Coins and house-
hold implements dug out of the mines indicate that they were
worked as long ago as the 12th century, mostly by Korean
immigrants who developed the mines in order to secure coal
for their pottery works. With the rise of the Alanchus to
power the'mines w'ere closed by imperial edict as it was feared
that their operation would have an adverse influence of feiuj
shui on the imperial tombs v/hich are near by. It was not
until 1901 that permission was .secured to work them. Two
companies at that time began operations, one purely Chinese
and the other a Russo- Chinese company. The property came
into the hands of Japanese at the time the Portsmouth treaty
was signed. A daily output of more than 5000 tons is
expected as soon as the transportation facilities have been
brought to a point where this production can be taken care
of.
MaacKuna.*-<‘Tbis division of China, known to the
254
llANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Chinese as Kwantung, has an area of about 370,000 square
miles and an estimated population of 20 millions. For more
than 2000 years the territory now known as Manchuria was
peopled by a number of Tartar tribes, known to the Chinese
as barbarians, and parts of it were at various times under the
control of China or Korea, and ruled separately. In the seven-
teenth century the Mancha tribe, previously of but small
importance, began its rise to prominence. Their chief,
Nurhachu, effected a combination of tribes and before his
death was able to set up an independent and powerful
government in Manchuria. Ilis successors fulfilled the dream
of their chief in 1644 when Nurhachu*s grandsons began
their rule over the whole of China. The population of
Manchuria was then drawn upon heavily to supply Tartar
garrisons in the principal cities of China, and the result was
that whole sections of the country u'ere entirely Aleared of
their inhabitants. Some of these sections have remained
without population for more than two centuries and Man-
churia is today a rich field for immigration from the crowded
sections of both China and Japan. Manchuria is divided into
three provinces: Shengking (orFengtien) Kirin and Heilung-
kiang, with populations, respectively, of 13 million. 5 million
and 2 million. Shengking has an area of 70,000 square miles,
Kirin 110,000, and Heilungkiang 190,000. In Shengking the
ranges of the Sungari mountains are covered with great
fore.sts of elm and pine, which are being rapidly thinned, the
logs being floated in rafts down the Yalii to Antung. The
plains of the province supply large quantities of soya beans
for export. The Chinese population is largely made up of
immigrants from Shantung. Colonists from China proper are
also replacing the native Manchu population of Kirin pro-
vince. The products are practically the same as in Shengking,
large quantities of beans being grown for export, and, in ad-
dition, much wheat supplied to the mills at Harbin Chinese
have colonized an important part of Heilungkiang, but the
greater part of the province remains peopled by pure Man-
chus, nomad Mongols, and the Tungusic tribes, who live by
fishing and hunting.
MANCIIUHIA
265
In 1898 the Russians leased Port Arthur and the adjoin-
ing peninsula from China and proceeded to connect their
leased territory with the Siberian Railway by the ccnstruct-
ion of the Chinese Eastern Railway, and to establish the ice-
free port of Dalny.
In 1900 the Boxer outbreak devastated the country.
Every foreign building was burned, which in Moukden alone
meant two Inspitals, two Protestant churches, six mission
houses, the Roman Catholic cathedral and other buildings.
The Catliolic bishop, two Ercnch priests, two Ercnch sisters
and a large number o f Chinese converts were killed. Th«
Russian punitive expedition swept the country of Boxers and
Chinese troops alike. In Moukden the Cliincse soldiers fired
the principal streets before fleeing. The Russians were from
that time on the preponderant foreign influence in the govern-
ment of Manchuria.
In the Ru.sso-Jc'.prinese war of 1904 5, whicli came as a
result of Russian aggression in Manchuria, thousands of
Chinese noncombatants were killed and wounded and tens of
thousands had their homes destroyed. Sin.'c the close of the
war tile Japanc‘«c have taken the place of the Russians as the
influential foreign power in vSouth Manchuria, the lUissian
influence continuing in N'orlh Manchuria with Changchun
(or Kw in-Clicag-'rzu) as a meeting place. The whole coun-
try remains, however, a part of China, under Cliincsc govern-
ment, tin; two foreign powers c.xcrci.sing sovereignty only
on their respective railways, settlements and mi.aes.
During 1910-11, Manchuria was visited hy a reinarkahly
deadly epidemic of pneumonic plague, 44,000 dcath.s taking
place without a single recovery. The Chinese authorities in
Moukden, with the help of Briti.sh missionary doctors and
others, worked liard and with gratifying success to prevent
the spread of the infection. A young doctor, Arthur Jackson,
died of plague and is buried about a mile outside Moukden
on ground given by the Chinese government. In April, 1911,
an international conference was held in Moukden to investi-
gate the nature of the disease and to devise methods for the
prevention of a future epidemic.
256
HANDBCX)K FOR CHINA
Shan-hat-k^an. — This town, on the boundary between
Chihli and Manchuria, is 260 miles from Peking. It is here
that the northern terminus of the Great Wall is to be seen and
for many travelers this is the only view they obtain of this
great monument. The city, which is unimportant, is about
four miles from the Great Wall, which was formerly buijt to
the sea, but that portion of it was destroyed long ago. The
line of the wall can be seen from here for many miles crossing
valleys and climbing precipitous mountain sides, sometimes to
a height of 1000 feet. A visit to a celebrated Taoist temple
on the top of one of the near-by hills is well worth the trouble,
because of the magnificent view that is to be obtained at its
elevation of 1500 feet. The city is one of some historical
interest for it was from here that Wu Sen-Kwei, who was in
command of the local garrison, appealed to the near-by
Manchus to come to the aid of the Ming dynasty and regain
Peking from the rebel Li (see page 49). The Manchu troops
occupied the city in May 1644, and shortly thereafter
made their victorious entry into Peking. • In fact most of the
history of the city has to do with the military affairs of China
and Manchuria.
Slian-hai-ks\an was a scene of great activity during the
Boxer siege, for it was here that the foreign troops were
landed for their march on Peking and the city was then
occupied by foreign troops, some of which remain in garrison.
The railway hotel, which was built then, affords comfortable
accommodation for travelers. There is a fine beach which
many foreigners visit during the summer.
Harbin.—TIiis is an important railway center where
passengers from Europe, Vladivostock, China or Japan change
trains to continue their journey. Here the southern section
of the Chinese Eastern Railway which connects with the
South Manchuria at Changchun, forms a junction with the
main line, the eastern continuation of the Siberian trunk line.
Though there arc four stations in Harbin all trains con-
verge at the commodious Central Station, where there are
large waiting rooms and a restaurant. Harbin is 495 miles
from Vladivostock, 874 miles from Peking, and 5100 miles
CHANGCHUN
257
from Petrograd# HoteU: Grand, Metropole and Orient, all
run on the American plan under Russian management. Run-
ners of the principal hotels meet all trains and look after
tickets and baggage. Russian, French and German arc the
principal European languages spoken here, and very few speak
English. “As Russian interests are predominant here Russian
currency was formerly in most general use but at the present
time Japanese coins are dominant. Many counterfeit coins
are in circulation and the traveler should be on his guard.
Harbin is a new town, owing its existence to the con-
struction of the Chinese Eastern Railway, and was not of
much importance until the Russo-Japanese war, after which
its growth became phenomenal. It now has a population of
about 50,000. The city is built on the leased ground of the
Chinese Eastern Railway, a tract of 29,000 acres, and con-
sists of three parts, Old Harbin, New 'Pown and Wharf Dis-
trict. The station is located in New Town, Old Harbin
being about two miles distant. The latter was formerly the
business center of the place, during the construction of the
railway, but with the establishment of the station, the interests
of the city followed. The old section is now important only
as the location of the barracks, residences of the railway,
officials etc. New Town has ail of the appearance of a
European city, with wide regular streets, which radiate from
the cathedral. The hotels, railway agencies, post office,
banks, etc. are all located in this section, near the station.
The whai*f section on the river northwest of the station i.s an
important business center. There is little in Harl)in to
attract the visitor to a lengthy stay and for most it is only a
waiting place between trains. These will find some amuse-
ment in the public gardens or the interesting shipping on the
Sungari River.
The principal industry of Harbin is flour milling, the
capital invested in the local mills amounting to more than
five million dollars. .All of the wheat comes from the farms
of North Manchuria.
Changchun.— Three railways converge at Changchun, it
being the northern terminus of the South Manchuria Railway
258
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
the southern terminus of the Chinese Eastern Railway and the
western terminus of the Changchun-Kirin line. Passengers
traveling by any of these lines for a destination beyond
Changchun must change cars here. It is well to note that
there is a difference between the official times of the railways,
the Russian railway time tables being 23 minutes earlier than
the Japanese time-tables. The Yamato Hotel is near the sta-
tion of the SoLitli Manchuria Railway. Post-offices : Chinese,
japancfe and Russian. Changchun, like Harbin, owes its
iini)ortance to the railways and contains nothing of any his-
torical interest. It is an important center for the bean trade
and is also famous for its horse fair which is held daily in a
suburb of the city outside the South Gate. The horsci arc of
Mongolian breed mostly fit only for draught purposes, hut a
few good riding horses arc offered for sale. The city has
a population of about 130,000 Chinese, 5,000 Japanese and
600 Russ ians.
The Changchun-Kirin Railway connects w ith Kirin, 80
miles distant. Kirin is an important trading town w'ith a
population of about 200,000, located on the navigable portion
of the Sungari River,
Missions; Irish Presbyterian, with hospital, church, etc.
in the Chinese part of the city.
Dairen (Dalny). — This is the Southern tertninus of the
South Manchuria Raiiw’ay, 246 miles south of Moukden, and
the piinci[ial seaport of ^Manchuria. Japanese post office.
Yamato 1 lotcl.
The territory now' occupied by Dalny w’as included in
the lease of Port Arthur obtained by Russia from China in
1898. Though a place of great natural advantages, as a port,
it had never been developed by the Chinese, and was then
merely a collection of lishcrmen’s huts. Russia immediately
began an extended scheme of improvement and in six years
accomplished wonders, laying out beautiful streets planted
with trees and lined with fine residences. The Russian popu-
lation grew to more than three thousand. The city is built
close to the shore at an ekvatioii of a little more than fifty
south MANCHURIA RAILWAY
259
feet, giving an excellent drainage system. The principal streets
1 adiate from circles where spacious public gardens are located.
In six years the Russians spent about 20 million roubles
on Dalny and then it fell into the possession of the Japanese
as one of the richest prizes of the Russo-Japanese war. The
Russian plans have been carried out and amplified by th<^
Japanese and Dalny is now one of the most rapidly growing
and most modern cities in the Far East. A new breakwater
and lishthousc have recently been completed and the city is
replacing Ncwchwang in importance as a Manchurian port.
It has a system of tramways, macadamized roads, electric
lights, telephones, and an Electric Park built along tlic lines
of the American electric parks. TheJaP'Uiese population of
the place is about 30,000, Cliinese, 20.000 and all others less
than 100. Steamers sail twice weekly for Shanghai, and there
is also steamer connection with the principal ports of Japan,
and several lines arc now running direct from Dairen to
ports on the Pacific Coast of the United States.
Hoshigaura (Star Beach) is about five miles from the city,
connected by an electric tram line. cliff garden has been
laid out and a hotel built tlicre, with several bungalows in
European and Japanese st\le, which arc lot to visitors. Ko-
ko-san is a pretty spot near Dalny rcachctl l)y a good carriage
road. It is on the seacoast where divers, for a small fee, will
give e.'iliibitions of their skill in the clear sea water.
South Manchuria Railway. — T he main line of this im-
portant railway extends from Cliangcium to Dairen, a distance
of 435 miles. There is one daily through train each way and
in addition llircc Continental express trains each week,
making connections at Changchun or at Harhin with Bie
Siberian express trains and connecting at Dairen with
steamers for Shanghai, or for ports in Japan and the United
States.
Principal points along the line (express
Miles from
Dairen
0 Dairen (sec page 250)
5 Chou-shui-tzu
train stops) arc :
Miles from
Changchun
435
430
Dairen (sec page 250)
Chou-shui-tzu
260
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Branch line to Port Arthur con-
nects here with main line.
20 Chinchoii 415
The walled town, population about
10,000, lies about 1 mile northwest of
the station. Nanshan, a plateau
beginning southwest of the station
was the scene of one of the most
fiercely contested battles of the
Russo-Japanese War.
28 Er-shih-li tai 407
65 Wa-fang-ticn 360
90 Wan-chia-ling 345
110 Hsiiing-yo-chcng 325
148 Ta-shih-chiao 287
Branch line to Yingkou or Newchvvang
(see page 255) connects with main line.
168 Hai-cheng 276
206 Liaoyang 229
One of the oldest towns in Man-
churia, its history going back to 1400
IkC. 1^'ormcrly a place of some com-
mercial importance, but of recent
ycacN its trade has dwindled. Con-
tains several interesting oltl temples.
Population 40.000.
236 Su-chia-tim ' 199
Branch line to the Fushun colliery.
246 Moukden or Fengticii 188
(sec page 248)
290 Tiehling 145
The most important city between
Moukden and Changchun and a great
center for the bean trade. Popula-
tion, 30,000.
311 Kai-yuan 124
324 Ma-chung-ho 111
A prolongation of the Great Wall
tUSHUN
26i
of China may be seen here.
330 * Chang-tu 105
The town, population 14,000, is five
miles northwest of the station.
364 ^ Szu ping chieh 171
This unimportant town is noted
as the meeting place of the Japanese
and Russian commissioners after
the war.
397 Kung-chu-Iing 38
Three miles northwest of the sta-
tion is the tomb of a Chinese prin-
cess, daughter of Taitsung, (1017-
1643) who died here on her way
to marry a Mongolian king.
435 Changchun (see page 249) 0
Lushun (Port Arthur) — This world-famous place is
known as Lushun by the Japanese, but by foreigners wilt
probably continue to be known as Port Arthur. It is 39 miles
from Dairen with which it is connected by railway and steam-
ship lines. The railway journey is less than two hours.
Hotel, Vamato.
Port Arthur, once the pride of the system of coast
defenses which China was developing, was taken hy the Japan-
ese in 1894, a victory which assured the success of Japan in
the war with China. Russia, Germany and France, posing as
friends of China, prevented Japan from taking possession of
the place, but four years later brought pressure to bear which
forced China to lease the position to Russia. Under the
Russians the original fortifications were improved upon
until it became known as the ‘'Gibraltar of tlic Far ICast.”
In the Russo-Japanese war. Admiral Togo attacked the
place, February 8, 1904, blockading the harbor. The presence
of mines in the channel made it impracticable to continue the
sea attack, but the blockade was maintained The land forces
began a siege of the place in May, the siege being marked by
many battles until the surrender of the position on January
1, 1905. The Japanese, in the surrender, took as prisoners
262
HANDBOOK fOR CHINA
878 officers and 23,491 men. The booty included 59 permanent
forts, four battleships and more than fifty smaller ships.
The principal points of interest in Port Arthur arc, < i
course, connected with the great battle which brought it into
fame. Good carriage roads lead to the vicinity of nearly ail
the forts and the Chinese drivers know the names and location,
of all of them. Tlic principal coast batteries arc on Tigci’,
Tail Pr(jmontory and ('.olden Hill, places which have recently
been opened to visitors. The Japanese are very jealous of this
.stronghold and visitors who carry kodaks should be careful
not to arouse the suspicions of the authorities, who arc alwa\ s
ready to suspect espionage.
One day can well be spent in viewing the main line of
fortilications which include Hast Cockscomb Hill (Tungchi-
kuaii-shan or 1 ligahhi-cikvvaa-zan) , Eagle’s Xest Hill (Ho
dai), Two Dragon Hill (lu-lung-sban or Niryu-zan). If
there is time to do so a visit should-'l^e made to 203 Meter
Hill, which will add a great deal to a realization of the
stupendous task which contronted the Japanese attackers. It
is one of tlie highest hills surrounding tlic city and was
considered a strategic point of the greatest importance. The
Japanese attack on the hill hogaii on Xovember 27 and ended
December 6, 1904, when the stiauigludd fell after nine days
and nights of desperate attacks. With the possession of this
point, the Japanese had a great a<lvantagc and in less than a
month the fortress fell. A visit to the hill will require tlic
better part of a day but on a clear day the view from the top
will omhrace the wludc of the country around Lushun. A
pair of held glasses will add a great deal to the pleasure of
the excursion.
On the high mole, known as Monument Hill, wliich
divides the old town from the new, is the national mausoleum
containing the remains of 22,000 soldiers who died here. A
monument 218 feet high is erected in their honor on the
summit of the hill. A stairway leads to a platform at the top
of the monument, where an excellent view of the bay can
be secured.
A very interesting Memorial Museum, which should be
CHE^OO
263
sited, is located near the old town. It contains a fine
< jllection of all kinds of war material, military stores, am-
munition, clothing, etc. The approach is lined by models of
enches, wire entanglements, etc., the whole making a very
impressive and interesting exhibit of the machinery of war.
d be museum is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Mondays ex-
cepted.
Newchwang (Yingkou). — Vor more than forty years
Newchwang was the only treaty port in Manchuria, and it
uas formerly of great commercial importance. The name of
ihc place now known as Newchwang to foreigners is really
Vingkou, the real Newchwang being 30 miles up the river.
When the place was opened for foreign residence, the for-
eigners found Yingkou to be more suitable than Newchwang
and arbitrarily settled there, changing the name of the
place to suit the requirements of the treaty. The country is
fiat and uninteresting and the town has nothing of interest to
offer the visitor.
Churches and Missions: St. Nicholas (Church of
Kngland), Irish Presbyterian and Roman Catholic.
Moukden to Antung (Ampo Line.) — During tlic
Russo-Japanese war the Japanese built a narrow-gauge line of
lailway from Moukden to Antung, a distance of 18^> miles, for
military uses. This was later turned over to the vSoulh Man-
ihiiria Railway Co. and made a standard-gauge railway on
which there is now an express train service traversing the
distance in (?hrs. 40 m. The whole line passes through some
very interesting scenery and presents numerous examples cf
engineering skill. On the line arc 24 tunnels and 212
bridges. At Antung connection is made with the Korean
(Chosen) railways and through them, hy way of Fusan, with
the railway system of Japan.
There are no towns along the line ot any importance,
and Antung does not merit a visit.
Chefoo.— One of the principal ports of rail for coasting
steamers in North China is Chefoo. two days’ journey from
Shanghai, located on the west of Chefoo Bay. Post offices:
British, French, Japanese. Hotels: Astor House, Beach,
264
HANDBOOK JOR CHINA
Sea View. Consulates: Great Britain, Belgium, France,
Japan, Sweden and United States. Opened to foreign
trade in March, 1863. The Chinese population is about
80,000. More than half of the 400 foreigners accredit-
ed to Chefoo are missionaries who reside in the interior.
The dry salubrious climate and the beautiful shore makes
Chefoo popular as a summer residence for foreigners, though
it has few places of interest. The trade amounts to about 40
million taels annually. The real name of the place is Yentai,
but ioreigners have arbitrarily given it the name of Chefoo,
which properly belongs to a large village on the opposite side
of the bay. The principal exports are hair nets, fresh eggs,
bean cake and straw braid. It is an important di.stributing
point for American kerosene.
Chefoo is a well-known center for silk and lace manu-
facture, and both articles can be purchased here at lower
prices than elsewhere. Near Chefoo grow the dwarf oaks
from the leaves of which pongee or Shantung silk is produc-
ed. The best known gold mine in China is at Chou-Yuoen
about 40 miles southwest of Chefoo, which has produced
sevcrpl million dollars’ worth of the metal.
Missions: China Inland, Church of England, American
Presbyterian, American Baptist, Roman Catholic. The large
school of the China Inland Mission for the children of mis-
sionaries is a conspicuous object on the beach to the east of
the town.
Weihaiwei. — The British leased territory of Weihaiwei
is on the south side of the Gulf of Pechili, near the extremity
of the Shantung promontory, about 115 miles from Port
Arthur and an equal distance from Tsingtau, two days from
Shanghai. Weihaiwei was formerly a Chinese naval station,
which was captured by the Japanese in 1895 and held by
them pending payment of the indemnity agreed upon at ti:e
close of the war. The battle of Weihaiwei, one of the prin-
cipal encounters in the war between China and Japan, was
distinguished by the gallant conduct of Admiral Ting, com-
mander of the Chinese Squadron. He had retreated here
after a defeat on the Yalu, but despite the battered condition
WfilHAIWEl
265
of his vessels prepared to resist the Japanese attack which
began on January 30th. The modern forts of the Chinese
fell in quick succession. However, despite the continued
success of the Japanese, Admiral Ting held out bravely until
February 12th, when he sent up the white flag of surrender and
then committed suicide, several of his officers following his-
example. Japan remained in possession of the place three
years. Great Britain then aided China in securing funds for
the payment of the indemnity, and in return was given the
lease of Weihaiwei. The lease provided for the occupation
of the place by Great Britian “ for so long a period as Port
Arthur shall remain in the occupation of Russia.” Though
Port Arthur was soon thereafter taken frerm Russia by Japan,
no move has been made to surrender Weihaiwei, which
is a sanatorium for the British Squadron in China.
The territory is covered by mountains, the highest
range being Mount MacDonald (1589 feet) whose summit is
crowned with the remains of old temples and altars, erected
at a time when this was one of the sacred mountains of China.
From the summit the whole of the leased territory may be
seen. Other high points include Mount Lansdowne (1367
feet,) Mount Goschen (1343 feet) and Temple Peak (1240
feet.) “The formation of the rocks..... can only be
described as extraordinary, conformity being conspicuous by
its absence. For absolute confusion of rocks the tourist is
recommended to explore the coast to the east of Water Witch
Bay. An interesting example of brecciated structure may be
seen near Three Peaks Point, in a cliff some 150 feet in height.
A magnificent monolith of white quartz twelve feet high
adorns the crest of Mount MacDonald. Gold has been
found both in alluvial deposits and in reefs and has been
worked by the Chinese.”
The leased territory includes the island of Liukung, all
the islands in the bay and a belt of land for ten miles along
the coast, the whole territory amounting to 285 square miles.
It includes more than 300 villages, with a total estimated
population of 150,000. Since the British occupation the
place has been greatly improved, many roads having been
266
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
built and a large hotel erected. With Tsingtau, Chefoo and
other northern coast points, it shares in the summer-resort
patronage from the more southern places. The climate is
fine the whole year and sea bathing is possible from May to
October.
The bay offers excellent anchorage, the harbor being
guarded by the island of Liukung, two miles long, Wei>
haiwei is a port of call for steamers running along the
coast, having direct connection with Shanghai, Chefoo and
Tientsin.
T»ingtau.— Three hundred miles north of Shanghai, at
the entrance to Kiaochow Bay, is the city and port of
Tsingtau. This was formerly a small and unimportant
fishing village, but in 1898 the territory was leased to
Germany for a period of 99 years, and since that time it has
been developed into a city of great commercial importance.
The pretext on which Germany demanded the lease of the
territory was the murder in Shantung of two German mis-
sionaries. The German Squadron occupied the bay Novem-
ber 14. 1897.
The town has been built since that date. It is well laid
out, has many handsome foreign residences and the streets
are well lighted by electricity. In the few years the place
was held by Germany many factories were erected and a
railway line built to Tsinanfu where it connects with
the Tientsin-Pukow line. The first sod on the Shantung
railway was cut by Prince Henry of Prussia. The area
of the leased territory is 193 square miles, in addition to
which a sphere of influence 30 miles from all points of the
leased' territory is recognized. This brings the total area up
to about 2750 square miles. Tsingtau has a foreign popula-
tion of less than one thousand, and a Chinese population of
about 60,000. The bay, almost surrounded by mountains, af-
fords good shelter and has been greatly improved, though it is
not free from ice in the winter. The entrance is half a mile
across, marked by a lighthouse. A long pier and a large dock
are among the many improvements which the Germans
added to the harbor. Among the notable conservation
TSINANFU
267
schemes carried out is the planting of trees on the barren
hillsides. Many good automobile roads have been built con-
necting with the villages in the interior. Tsingtau is one of
the most popular summer resorts on the China coast, and
has several good hotels. A fine bathing beach and a number
of interesting excursions to the near-by mountains add to its
attractions.
On August 16, 1914, at the outbreak of the European
War, Japan demanded that Germany surrender the leased
zone and on Germany failing to comply with this demand,
the place was attacked by Japanese and British forces by land
and sea. It was surrendered on November 7, 1914, and since
that time has been in possession of the Japanese.
Missions: In addition to strong Roman Catholic insti-
tutions, there are two German Protestant Missions, the Amer-
ican Presbyterian and the British and Foreign Bible Society.
T»inanfu.— This city, the capital of Shantung province,
is at the junction of the Tientsin-Pukow Railway and the
Shantung Railway from Tsingtau, being 260 miles west of
Tsingtau and an equal distance south of Tientsin. Popula-
tion about 350,000. Foreign hotels : Hotel Trendel and Hotel
Stein ; runners meet the trains.
According to local history a city was established on the
present site of Tsinanfu during the lifetime of the Great Yu.
or about 4000 years ago. At any rate a city bearing the
name Tsinanfu was located 25 miles to the east. About
300 A. D. for some unknown reason this city was moved
bodily to the present site of Tsinanfu, the name being
transferred as well. According to the legend a line of
men was formed shoulder to shoulder between the two cities
and the bricks forming the wall were passed from haiid to
hand, all being moved in one night. There was so much
breakage that although the walls before being moved were 20
li in circumference, the bricks served to build only 12 li here.
As evidence of the great antiquity of the place and of the
associations it had with famous characters of ancient history,
residents point out inside the south gate of the city a well
said to have been dug by Emperor Shun. The well is still
268
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
in daily use. The stone suburban wall, outside the city wall
proper, is of recent construction, having been erected as
a means of protection against the Taiping rebels.
The Yellow River, five miles to the north, runs in flood
time high above the level of the city, which is protected
by thick embankments. The great plain which extends from
Tsinanfu to Peking is broken only by a few small hills, while
to the south the country is very broken and mountainous. The
city is built at the foot of a range of these hills and receives
an excellent supply of water from a lake on the north. The
north wall runs through a swamp enclosing within the city
walls a large area, about one-fourth of the total, unfit for
building purposes. This lake “is divided into lots which
belong to various owners, who raise thereon reeds, lotus
roots, and beautiful water lilies, besides frogs— a table
delicacy here— and fish. Separating the lots are lanes of
clear water, lined during the summer season on both sides
with tall reeds, through which run boats that are in great
demand during the hot weather, carring pleasure-seekers to
the various tea-houses and temples located in various parts
of the lake.”
Among the points of interest in Tsinanfu may be men-
tioned the Confucian (or Public) Library, with its pictures-
que gardens located on the edge of the lake and accessible
from the mainland. Some of the notable inscriptions found
in Shantung province have been preserved here. A short
distance from the library is the Provincial Assembly Hall.
Shoppers will find the most attractive articles on the
main street which is from 12 to 25 feet wide and runs from
east to.w'est To foreigners the most interesting articles are
imitations of precious stones, manufactured locally.
Up to the time of the Boxer trouble Tsinanfu was one of
the most conservative cities in China, having little to do
with foreigners or foreign institutions. Since that time,
however, it has become very progressive and is now the loca-
tion of many government schools, a hospital, etc. conducted
on Western lines. It has also become a center for missionary
work. In the south suburb is located the very interesting
tsinanfu
269
museum of the English Baptist Mission. This museum has
attracted so much attention among the Chinese that the
average daily attendance is about one thousand. Adjoining
the site of the English Baptist Mission is the Union Medical
College ; its fine building was erected in 1910. The hospitals
and other enterprises of the American Presbyterian Mission
are located in the west suburb.
Tsinanfu was voluntarily opened for foreign settlement
by the Chinese government in 1906, being the first city in
China in which such action was taken. Several foreign firms
and two foreign hotels are now located there as well as a
fine foreign settlement covering a little more than one square
mile. Since the opening of the Tientsin-Pukow railway the
settlement has been growing rapidly.
The beautiful “Hill of the Thousand Buddhas’* is near
the city and may be easily reached from the south gate by
wheelbarrow or ricsha. “The view from the temple on this
hill over the city lying at its feet, out over the plain and
across the Yellow River, four miles from the city to the
north, is very extensive, and when the fields are covered
with growing crops, a very beautiful one^ but it is surpassed
in the extent and variety of the scenery by that from Pagoda
Hill, from the top of which can be seen not only the plain
to the north with the Yellow River winding through it, but
also the rugged mountainous country extending as far as the
eye can reaqh to the south. From the top of this Pagoda
Hill may b«i seen, on clear days, the form of Tai.shan, the
sacred mountain of Shantung, lying fifty miles to the south
and surrounded on all sides by billowy hills. There is a
legend which represents Tsinan as being fastened to th^ pa-
goda on the summit of Pagoda Mountain by an invisible rope,
which if ever severed through any evil influence will allow
the city to float out into the sw^amp lying north of the town.”
The Temple of the Dragon’s Cave, eight miles from the
city, is one of the most picturesque in China. The temple
lies at the bottom of a deep gorge and there are several caves
in the surrounding limestone cliffs.
Travelers who expect to visit Tai Shan, or the tomb of
270
. HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Confucius can make arrangements for the trip at Tsinanfu,
securing bedding, provisions and guides from the hotel.
The Yellow River. — A few miles north of Tsinanfu the
Yellow River is crossed on the famous bridge constructed
by German engineers, the most important bridge in China
and one of the longest in the world, its length being 4180
feet. Work on this structure was begun in 1906 and extended
over a j)eriod of more than three years, the total cost being
about $5,000,000 (Mexican.) Owing to the swiftness of the
current, the shifty nature of the stream and the lack of solid
foundations, the bridge was constructed under a great many
difficulties, but is now believed to be proof against any changes
of the very treacherous river. The foundations are sunk
about 60 feet below the low water level, the bridge being built
on reinforced concrete piles of that length. So many piles
have been driven tliat it is believed the bridge w^ould be
secure even if tlie earth should be washed away from the
concrete foundation of the piers.
This great stream, about 2500 miles in length, drains an
area of 47,500 scpiare miles. Scarcely a decade in the last
century has passed without some devastating outbreak of
this river. ]''norinous sums of money have been spent in
the construction of i)owcrful dykes and the natural sand banks
of the stream have in places been faced by stone embankments.
In 18*18 the embankment broke at Laoyang Hsien; in 1868
at a point near Clicngcliow ; in 1869 another break occurred
at the same place and a large area was covered. When the
water receded it was found that the land had been covered
by sand and rendered unlit for cultivation.
The river has been following this course only since 1852.
During 146 years, from 1048 to 1194, the river poured its
waters into the sea at Tientsin through the mouth of the Pei-
ho. Then the course w^as changed and it emptied into the
Yellow Sea 400 miles to the southward until 1852 when the
present course was adopted in a time of flood. It is unique
among the great rivers of the world in that it is of practi-
c&Wy no value for navigation.
“What must be said of the mental status of a people
TlENTSIN-PUKOW RAILWAY
271
who for forty centuries have measured their strength against
such a Titan racing past their homes abo^e the level of
their, fields, confined only *between walls of their own
construction? While they have not always succeeded in
controlling the river, they have never failed to try again. In
1877 this river broke its banks, inundating a vast area,
bringing death to a million people. Again as late as
1898, 1500 villages to the northeast of Tsinanfu and a much
larger area to the southwest of the same city were devastated
by it.’**
Tientsin-Pukow Railway. — This line, one of the Gov-
ernment railways of China, was opened for through traflic in
1912, and affords the quickest service between North China
and the eastern part of the Yangtsze Valley. The trip from
Pukow to Tientsin, a distance of 631 miles, occupies about
twenty-seven hours, making it possible to go from Shanghai
to Peking in thirty-si.'c hours. At Tientsin the road connects
with the government railways of North China, and at Pukow
it connects by ferry with the Nanking terminus of the {Shang-
hai-Nanking Railway.
Tlie negotiations for the construction of this line resulted
in dividing the work between Germany and England. The
northern portion, from Tientsin to the Grand Canal, was
built by German capital and engineers, while the southern
portion, from the Grand Canal to Pukow, was built by British
capital and' engineers. Both sections are under purely Chi-
nese control. Passengers will notice a striking contrast
between the German and British portions of the line. On the
former all the stations have been equipped with pretentious
buildings of brick, stone and tile, each one being of a dilTercnt
style of architecture, but all containing Chinese ideas as
interpreted by the German architects. In the British section
the stations are severely plain, being but little more than brick
sheds with galvanized iron roofs. Construction on the Brit-
ish section cost £10,600 per mile and on the German section
about £ 14,000 per mile. The greater part of the road runs
• ‘‘Faxmers of Forty Centuries,** ty Professor IMI. King.
m
HANDBOOK TOR CHINA
through prairie country with a few miles of mountainous
country in
Shantung. Between Tientsin and the
Yellow
River the country is very flat, and the soil contains
a Jarge
proportion of loess.
Important points on the line are:
Miles from
Miles from
Tientsin
Pukow
0
Tientsin (see page 244).
631
78
Tsangchow.
553
148
Techow.
483
220
Tsinanfu (see page 259). Con-
nection is made here with the Shan-
tung Railway for Tsingtau. A few
miles north of Tsinanfu the Yellow
River is crossed.
411
265
Taianfu (see page 266).
366
308
Chufou (see page 269), Express
trains do not stop at this station.
Travelers going to the tomb of Con-
fucius may descend at Ycnchowfu.
323
318
Ycnchowftt. Tomb of Confucius
distant 13 miles.
313
377
lyinchcng.
254
392
Hanchuang. The railway crosses
the Grand Canal near this station
(see page 246). To the west is a ,
lake which serves as a storehouse '
for the canal during the winter
months.
239
420.
I-Isuchowfu. At this point the
trunk line from Kaifengfu to the
coast joins the Tientsin-Pukow line.
The station stands on the old bed
of the Yellow River.
271
523
Pengpu.
108
631
Pukow (see page 273). A ferry
across the Yangtsze connects with
Nanking.
a
SHANTUNG PROVINCE
273
Sbftntung Province. — The area of Shantung is 762
square miles, and it has a population of almost 40 millions.
The hilly and mountainous portions of the south and east
occupy almost half the area of the province, the remainder
being a plain. The mountains of the eastern portion follow
the shore line closely, rising sheer from the sea and mak-
ing landing difficult. Only towards the extremity of the
promontory are there any natural harbors. There arc no^
no forests in the province though near the home of Confucius
the noble groves indicate the former beauty of the country.
There are many fine orchard tracts including pears, apples,
walnuts and persimmons and some important vineyards. In
the hills are the wild mulberry and oak plantations from
which pongee silk is made. The soil of Shantung has been
tilled contmuously for many centuries and is consequently
greatly impoverished, but continues to produce a minimum of
three crops every two years. '‘Wheat, millet, maize, sorg-
hum, sweet potatoes, peanuts, hemp, indigo, and a variety of
bean and pea crops are regularly grown. . . Apples, pears,
apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, cherries, grapes, and
persimmons are plentiful.” ''he Shantung men are very
much larger than the Southern Chinese, being of about the
same average stature as Europeans. Men six feet tall are
not infrequently seen. They are “stalwart, well-built men,
steadfast, blunt, outspoken, persevering, not so easily roused
as the men of the southern provinces, nor su easily pacified,
but yet sliaring other common characteristics of the race.
Mentally the Shaiitungese are hard-headed and incredulous
in their dealings with fellow mortals, though they manifest
the opposite of these qualities in their relations with the spirit
world. They are more convinced idolaters than are to be
found in most of the provinces of China, if we may judge
from a certain readiness to argue in defense of popular
deities.”
A large part of the present province of Shantung was
once the feudal state of Lu, which was granted by the founder
4)f the Chow dynasty to his brother Tan, “ who there carved
^put for himself a realm and reigned, loved by his subjects and
?74
handbook for china
revered in all later ages, as the sainted patriarch Chou Kung,
a sort of Alfred among the lords of old. Of all the feudal
States abolished by Emperor Shih Hwang-ti, that of Lu was
probably the most persistent in its attempts to regain inde-
pendence. There were princes of Lu under the Han dynasty
and as late as the Mings — sixteen centuries after the con-
solidation of the empire of China — attempts were made to
^-establish the state.
Tai Shan. — The great sacred mountain of Tai Shan,
(5100 feet high) is 45 miles south of Tsinanfu on the Tien-
tsin-Pukow Railway at Taianfu. The city itself is dirty and
uninteresting. This is probably the oldest sacred mountain in
the world, pilgrims having made their periodical visits to the
place for several thousand years. According to tradition
Emperor Shuu sacriliccd there in the 23rd century B. C. The
mountain is covered with temples and is the location of many
spots of great fame.
For many centuries Tai v^haii has held a high place in the
religion and mythology of the Chinese; and Confucianists.
Buddhists and Taoists alike have made pilgrimages to it.
Many of the early Emperors visited the place and left
mementos of their visits in temples, obelisks and monuments,
though many of these objects pointed oat by the guide are of
later date than he would have you believe.
The annual pilgrimage to the mountain takes place from
February to May, when as many as ten thousand people
will make the ascent in one day. A guild of chair-bearers
will carry one up and down the mountain, making the
round trip in a day but most of the devout prefer to
make the trip on foot wdiile some ascend on their knees.
It is curious to note that the guild whose members have a
monopoly of chair carrying are Mohaimncdaiis. An old local
law inflicts severe penalties on any coolie who slips or allows
a chair to drop in making the trip. The chair used is a con-
trivance peculiar to Tai Shan and found in no other part of
China, It is a very uncomfortable conveyance unless soften-
ed by pillows or blankets. The ascent to the top, 15 miles»
TAI SHAN
275
takes 6 hours and the descent half that time. The usual
charge for a chair is $3.00.
The remarkable mountain road which leads to the sum^
mit, starting outside the North gate of Taianfu, is paved
its entire length, and the ascent is made with 6300 stone
steps. The road at places is twelve to fifteen feet wide
and is a splendid testimonial to the engineering skill of tlie
ancient Chinese. For more than half the way the road follows
a mountain stream whose cascades and waterfalls add much
to the beauty of the scenery. It leads through fine groves,
the lower part being bordered by cypress which give way to
pines above the 3000 foot level. About halfway up the hill
one of the principal temples is reached, marked by a gateway
which is known as “The Middle Gate of Heaven.” After
this conics the steepest part of the ascent, a part of the
roadway being provided oh each side with chains placed there
for the aid of weary pilgrims. Farther on is another con-
spicuous gateway called “The Southern Gate of Heaven.”
From a small village near this gate, the road leads to the
summit by an easy grade. Here there are a number of pre-
tentious temples, the highest one being dedicated to Yu-huang,
the Taoist Fmperor of the Sky. The chief temple is dedicat-
ed to P’i-lisia Yiian-chun, the jade lady goddess of Chinese
mytliology. A slightly smaller temple honors the memory of
Confucius and contains a copy of the famous image of the
sage in the, temple at Chufou. Parts of the tenii)Ies at the
top are very old but being kept in perfect repair the older
parts are often unnoticed by the casual sightseer. The cast-
iron tiles on the temple to “The Old Lady of the Mountain”
have been in use since the 15th century. Near by are
cliffs over which devotees formerly threw themselves to the
rocks below. So great was the loss of life that the authorities
have guarded the place with a high wall, yet in spite of this,
some lives are sacrificed each year.
The view from the top of Tai Shan is one of the finest
in China. On the south one can see almost the whole valley
of the Wen Ho, while on the north, thoitgh Tsinan fu is
hidden, a part of the course of the Yellow River may be
276
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
followed. Confucius claimed he saw the sea on the east, and
Nanking on the south, a feat which is impossible to the
modern traveler, but the horizon is 85 miles distant and if the
great sage did not view the sea itself, he at least saw a spot
located very near to the seashore. The view from the
top embraces What might be called the Holy Land of China
where her greatest sages Confucius and Mencius lived, taught
fhd were buried. “In all the cities and villages of Shantung,
stones from Tai Shan are much in request as talismans. It
is believed to be unlucky for a house to be so built as to face
a turning or a cross road. To ward off the ill luck, stones
are inserted in the wall of the house so situated, with the
inscription ‘The stone from Tai Shan accepts the responsibi-
lity.’” Such stones have been found in every province in
China.
Among the many places in and about the city of Taian,
three te.mples are of especial interest. The “Buddhist Hell,”
not far from the railway station depicts ip life-sized clay
figures all the horrors of future punishment. In 1900 the
Boxers gathered and practised in this place, going out from
here to kill the first of the missionary martyrs. Only a three
minutes* walk from this place is the Brass Temple, also
devoted to “The Old Lady of the Mountain,” but usually
quite deserted. Here is the famous Golden Palace or brass
tower which formerly stood on top of the mountain but was
brought down here for some unknown reason about 1770.
Twelve huge bronze figures may be seen in the temple halls,
remarkable not only for their good casting but also for their
fine carving. The largest and most popular temple of the
city is- the Tai Miao dedicated to the Emperor Shun in the
northeastern part of the city. An Emperor of the Han
dynasty is generally credited with planting the gnarled old
cypress trees which to-day fill the courtyard of the temple.
Large trees growing out of crevasses in the walls attest to
the great age of the place, and there seems to be fairly good
evidence that some of the trees still standing date from the
Han dynasty. There is a well preserved locust of the Tang
periocL 600 to 900 A. D. Some of the large metaj incense
CHUFQU
277
burners were made during the Sung dynasty, 960 to 1280.
In one of the outer courts of the temple visitors are some-
times shown an extraordinarily large slab of jade pre-
sented by Emperor Chien Lung in 1736, held in great
repute by reason of the local belief that ope end is always
warm and the other end always cold. During the pilgrim
season one is likely to overlook the very interesting objei^s
about the temple because of the greater interest of the mass
of humanity which passes before one. Pilgrims from many
provinces, but especially from Shantung, then throng the
temple by thousands. A lively trade in souvenir toys carried
on at this time furnishes a livelihood for the citizens for the
remaining eight months of the year.
There are no foreign hotels in Taianfu, but the members
of the Methodist mission have made arrangements to entertain
small parties of tourists in their homes and make the neces-
sary arrangements for mountain chairs, trips to interesting
temples in the vicinity, etc. The price of board in the Taian-
fu homes is $4 per day. Very little English is spoken by the
Chinese here, and visitors are advised to write in advance
to the Superintendent of the Taianfu High School, where-
upon arrangements will be made to meet the train and
provide accommodation and guides.
Chufou. — Ninety miles south of Tsinanfu on th« Tien-
tsin-Pukow Railway is Chufou, the place where Confucius
lived and i.^. buried. When the railway was being constructed
a few years ago, the Duke of Kung, a lineal descendant of
Confucius, objected to the defilement of the sacred place by
luch a barbarous thing as a foreign railway and so was able
to keep it out of Chufou, where he is very influential. It is
therefore necessary for the visitor to ride five miles in a
Chinese cart or wheelbarrow from the railway station. The
fact that the Duke is now a wiser man and regrets that the
road does not touch his city docs not make the ride any shorter.
The principal point of interest at Chufou is the great
cemetery, covering about 600 acres and containing the bones
of the Confucian clan in all its branches for 2500 years. It
lies outside the north gate of the city and is reached by a
278
HANDBOOK FOR’CHINA
road about a mile long leading between rows of magni-
ficent old cedars. From the outer enclosure of this park-like
cemetery an avenue of trees leads to an inner enclosure at the
south end of the great cemetery containing many monuments
commemorating imperial visits to the tomb, some of them
dating back to the Sung dynasty, and also halls for wor-
ship. Near the center of the enclosure arc knolls which cover
the remains of Confucius, his only son, and a grandson, the
latter being the auilior of “the Doctrine of the Mean.’' The
tablet marking the resting place of the great sage bears the
simple inscription, “Ancient, Most Holy Teacher.” Near the
tomb is a monument marking the spot where a disciple lived
in a hut for six years, mourning the death of his master. All
the other disciples mourned for three years.
The great Confucian temple, the finest in China, occupies,
with its grounds and outlying buildings, one whole side of the
town, about one third of the area. The lofty green tiled roofs
are visible for a long distance. The carved stone pillars, a
mass of interlaced dragons and tracery, that support the
great shrine, the Ta Ch’eng Tien, ‘Hall of Perfection,'
wherein the statue of Confucius reposes, are one of the
marvels of Chinese sculpture. “The sacrificial vessels are of
priceless porcelain and bronze. The inscriptions are countless,
many of the tablets having papers pasted to them intimating
that rubbings are not to be taken without due authority.
Under the eaves are masses of gay colored wood carving,
enclosed in wire netting as a protection against birds and
bats, yet the buildings are by no means as clean as they might
be. On the varanda of the Ta Ch’eng Tien may be seen the
famous sounding stones, the caps of two small pillars that,
for some reason of which the secret is lost or well kept, ling
with a musical note when struck. The marble stairs and
ramps leading to the shrines are master-pieces. Everything,
in fact, that devotion and money can supply has been done to
make the temple buildings the grandest specimen of Chinese
architecture, and, as usual, they stand in a park of splendid
trees. The roots of one very ancient cypress are carefully
enclosed in a marble parapet. From this ancient stump.
TSOWHSISN
279
which is said to have been planted by Confucius himself, a
tall and vigorous stem, itself some centuries old, projects
staight aloft to proclaim that the old root has sap and life in
it yet. An extremely interesting and complete collection of
ancient musical iustruments is kept in the temple. Estates
reckoned at 48,000 moWy say 8,000 acres, are devoted to the
support of the temple and the supply of the enormous number
of pigs, sheep and cattle required for the sacrifices, for sym-
bolism has not taken root here and instead of burning cheap
paper images the worshipers of Confucius perform the full
sacrificial rites laid down in the books of old. In a word
the Prophet is l)y no means without honor in his own coun-
try.”* The original temple, built 498 B. C. was a very small
and unpretentious building. It has been rebuilt by successive
emperors, each one striving to out do his predecessors.
Many things intimately connected with the life of Con-
fucius are to be seen. The well from which he drank and the
room in which he taught are carefully preserved. The Duke
of Kung a direct descendant of the great sage lives in a
large establishment not far from the temple and there are
also nearby many mementos of Confucian disciples.
The Chinese inns at Chufou are comparatively well kept
and the traveler need suffer no discomforts if he carries bed-
ding for the one night it is necessary to spend there. Visitors
arc advised to make arrangements for the trip either at Tsi-
nanfu, Taianfu, or Nanking where guides can be secured.
Though this place derives its greatest fame from the fact
that it is the burial place of Confucius it should also gain
renown from the fact that it is the burial place of Shau-liau,
son of the famous third Emperor of China, Hwang-ti. Shau-
hau reigned from 2594 to 2511 B. C., a period of 83 years, of
which the Chinese legends give little information beyond the
fact that the custom of embroidering representations of birds
on the uniforms of civil officials and of beasts of prey on
those of military officials originated during this period.
Tsowhtien. — Seventeen miles south of Chufou on the
A Family Holiday Trip in I.u/* by W. J. Clcnnell.
280
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
Tjcntsin-Pukow railway is Tsowhsien, the birthplace of
Mencius, the sage who stands next to Confucius in the
estimation of the Chinese and whom many foreigners place
first. About midway between Chufou and Tsowhsien are two
cemetery plots, five miles apart, the larger and more accessible
one containing the grave of Mencius’ mother, a woman very
famous in Chinese legend. The sage is buried in a more
isolated place, too far away for the casual visitor. However,
both places may be visited by one willing to make the journey
in a wheelbarrow or cart. The grave of Mencius may also
be reached from Chufou by traveling about eight miles as it
is about midway between Chufou and Tsowhsien,
The chief point of interest in the town is the temple to
Mencius, outside the south gate, with memorials of imperial
visits second only in importance to those in the Confucian
temple at Chufou. On the way to the temple one sees a
memorial arch bearing the inscription, “Ancient Site of the
Third Change of Residence.” This refers to a famous story
told of the mother of Mencius. She first lived near a cemetery
but found that her son amused himself mimicking the mourn-
ers ; she then moved near a market place, where the young
Mencius imitated the bickerings of the tradesmen. The third
removal, commemorated by the arch, was to a site near a
school, where the mind of Mencius developed rapidly under
the good examples so constantly before him.
Tsowhsien has its duke, a descendant of Menchii. About
1000 families in the town claim to be descendants of the sage,
though a large part of the clan migrated to Soochow.
After leaving Tsowhsien, going south, there is little of
interest on the route of the Tientsin-Pukow Railway except
at a point just north of Hsuchowfu, (417 miles from Tientsin)
where it is possible to see the old bed of the Yellow River,
recognizable because it lies higher than the surrounding coun-
try, though it is now built over with houses and is under
cultivation. This trip from Tientsin to Pukow by rail gives
an excellent opportunity to observe the shifting character of
the Yellow River, which has been called “China’s Sorrow,’^
“The Ungovernable” and “The Scourge of the Sons of
PUKOW
281
Han.** The course of the river seen near Hsuchowfu was
formed in 1300 and followed it until 1852 when the river, in
the coarse of an unusual flood, broke through its banks and
took its present course, 300 miles to the north.
Puk#w.— This southern terminus of the Ticntsin-Pukow
railway is on the northern bank of the Yangtsze, 628 miles
from Tientsin. Passengers arriving here are transported
across the river to Nanking by railway ferry. Those pro-
ceeding to Shanghai are landed near the station of tbf
Shanghai-Nanking railway,
HONGKONG
(and South China)
ENERAL Information.— Hongkong is a
crown colony of Great Britain, ceded by
treaty with China January 25, 1841.
I'he principal city is Victoria, on the
north shore. Distance from London
10,000 miles, from Shanghai 800 miles.
Time, 7 hs. 35 min. in advance of
Greenwich. Population: Chinese, nearly
500,000; foreign, 13,000.
/I rnVfl/.— Steamers drop anchor in the
harbor, and are met by launches from
the various hotels, the charge for
landing at Blake Pier being $1 for each
person. This includes the transportation
of a liberal amount of baggage to the
hotel. From Blake Pier, the principal
hotels are Avithin easy riesha distance.
There are practically ^ no customs
formalities as Hongkong is a free port.
Hotels. — Hongkong, Astor House,
Grand, Carleton, King Edward, Peak,
Kingsclere (private). If a prolonged stay is., intended,
arrangements can be made for reduced weekly and -monthly
rates.
Money. — Ilongkong has its own currency, the value of
which iliictuates daily with the price of silver. The Hongkong
dollar is of about the same value as the Chinese dollar.
Cliinesc coins do not pass as legal tender and the tourist
should refuse to accept them.
Newspapers.^DdiWy, Hongkong Daily Press, South
China Morning Post, Hongkong Telegraph, China Mail.
Posts and Telegraphs.— General Post Office is in a
handsome building on the water front and extending back to
Des Voeux Road, Letter rates to union countries, except
China 10 cts. for one ounce, 6 cts. for each additional ounce ;
to United Kingdom and dependencies and China (except
Cantonese Actor.
HONGKONG
283
Canton, 4 cts. for each ounce ; to Canton and Macao 2 cts. for
each oz. Offices of the Eastern Extension Australia and
China Telegraph Co., the Great Northern Telegraph Co. and
the Chinese Telegraph Administration are on the water front
next to the Hongkong Club.
Trajisportatiou.—ChMs, 2 coolies, hour, 25 cts. ; hour,
35 cts. ; day, 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. $1.50; 4 coolies, hour, 80 cts. :
dav, $3.50. Ricshas, 1 hour, 20 cents. Because of the large
amount of tourist travel to Hongkong, tlie coolies are
acc '>tomed to make exorbitant demands, especially if one dis-
plays his ignorance of the rates by paying more than the usual
fare. Tramway to the peak, return ticket, 50 cts. Kowloon
ferry, 15 cts. During morning and afternoon, the ferry runs
every ten minutes; evenings 15 minutes. Sampans, 40 cts. per
hour. Motor boats, $2 per l.our. Motor cars, $3 to $8 per
hour. Motor launclics for trips about the island may be had
by special arrangement at $3 an hour upw^ards.
Consulates. — Belgium, Brazil, Chili, Denmark, France,
Italy, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, Portugal, Siam, Spain,
Sweden, United States, Norway, Nicaragua, Panama, Peru.
Cook*s Office: 16 ].)es Voeux Road.
Steamer Lines and lun cs.—Vor service to Europe and
America, see page 32 the rates for Shanghai, Hongkong and
Japan ports being about the same. The Indo-China, China
Merchants’ and China. Navigation Cos.’ steamers offer sailings
several times weekly to Shanghai and ports in Japan. To
Australia : Eastern and Australia, sailings every three weeks
to Adelaide. Nippon Yusen Kaisha. manthly to Melbourne.
To the Philippines : Indo-China S. N. Co., and the China
Navigation Co. offer service to the Philippines amounting to
ten sailings monthly. Several lines connect with points in
India, the Sfraits Settlements, Siam etc. A popular circular
tour is from Hongkong to Swatow, thence to Amoy and
Foochow, returning to Hongkong, with stopovers at all
places. ^
The occasional piratical attacks still made in the
waters about the entrance of the West River come as
reminders of the almost forgotten fact that Hongkong
is one of the Ladrones, or ‘‘Thieves” Islands, a name
which early Portuguese traders appropriately gave them.
But Hongkong itself has long ago outgrown its old name,
and as a British crown colony has been transformed in
l^iss than 75 years from a pirate-fisherman village with a
population of a few thousand to one of the most
284
HANDBOOK TOR CHINA
important business centers in the Far East, with a port
which is second only to that of London in the amount of
tonnage entering and leaving its waters. In the troubles which
preceded the war with China, the British traders who
were driven from Canton by the hostility of the Chinese
found refuge in the Portuguese colony of Macao, but
as this directed Chinese hostility toward Macao, the
British soon left and settled on the island of Hongkong,
feeling that they > ought not to compromise the safety
of the Portuguese settlement by remaining there. For a time
the little community lived on board the ships until residences
could be established, and there was some moving back and
forth between Macao and the island. In 1840 the British
expeditionary force arrived and made Hongkong its head
quarters. The island has been under the British flag evei
since that time. However, in the early days the colony was
found to be so unhealthful that the project of abandoning it
was seriously discussed. In 1844 the colonial treasurer drew
up a report in which he set forth the large number of deaths
and gave it as his opinion that “it was a delusion to hope
that Hongkong could ever become a commercial emporium
like Singapore.” These pessimistic views, though they found
some adherents, did not prevail, and such was the progress
made that about forty years later Sir William des Voeux was
able to write: *Tt may be doubted whether the evidences
of material and moral achievement, presented ?.s it were in a
focus, make anywhere a more forcible appeal to eye and
imagination, and whether any other spot on the earth is thu5
more likely to excite, or much more fully justifies, pride in
the name of Englishman.”
Hongkong is today without doubt the most beautifii!
city in the Far East and one of the foremost commercial
centers. It is an important point for the trans-shipment of
goods destined for South China, the Philippine Islands, and
other near-by points. The harbor, with an area of 15 square
miles, is well sheltered, being enclosed on two sides by loft}
hills, which rise on the mainland to a height of 3000 feet
How'ever, it is in the typhoon area, and on several occasion
HONGKONG
285
great damage has been done to shipping in port. Many
thousands of lives were lost in the typhoon of 1874. Warn-
ings of these disturbances are now sent out, greatly decreas-
ing the danger. The manufacturing interests of the city are
yearly growing more important and now include several large
sugar refineries, rope and glass factories and cement works
Several large dry docks and ship-building works are located,
here.
Except for a tradition that after the fall of the Mings
some of the courtiers fled to Hongkong and there found
safety from the Manchus, the place cannot be said to have
any place in history before the British occupation. A similar
tradition is connected with Kowloon on the mainland. It is
said that in the year 1287 the last Emperor of the Sung
dynasty, flying from Kublai Khan, took refuge there in a
cave. An inscription above the cave consists of Chinese
characters meaning “Sung Emperor's Pavilion."
*‘On the cession of the territory to Great Britain the
natives petitioned the Hongkong Government that the rock
might not be blasted or otherwise injured, on account of the
tradition connecting it with the Imperial personage above
mentioned. In 1898, during the administration of Major-
General Wilsone Black, a resolution was passed by the
Legislative Council preserving the land on which the rock
stands for the benefit of the public in perpetuity."
The island of Hongkong is known to the Chinese as
Heung-kong (Fragrant Stream or Good Harbor), but Anglo-
Saxons have ever found the nuances of Chinese pronunciation
difficult and the blunter official name has come into common
usage. The island is 11 miles long, from 2 to 5 miles wide
with a circumference of 25 miles and an area of 30 square
miles. The channel which separates the island from the
mainland is one mile wide between Victoria and Kowloon,
narrowing to 1/4 mile at Lyemun Pass.
T1 e island is covered with rugged hills and small valleys
through which flow a few rocky streams. A fine military
road winds around the greater part of the island, following
close on the beach, or climbing the sides of the steep hills
286
HANDBOOK l?OR CHINA
which fringe the shore. A motor car trip over this road
charming. Many other winding roads which would do credit
to any city in the world have been built reaching the top of
the Peak. Most of them are beautifully shaded and afford
excellent opportunities for fine walks. A form of exercise
very popular in Hongkong is to ride to the top of the hill on
chairs or in the tram and walk back to the city. The return
trip can be made in from one-half to an hour by a good
walker. The cable tramway leading to the top is a very
interesting piece of engineering and no visit to Hongkong is
complete without a trip over the line. Picnic excursions on
launches to the many small harbors and beaches about the
island are popular.
The colony, Britain’s first outpost on the China coast,
was established in 1841 when the island of Hongkong was
ceded by the treaty of Nanking. Two years later it was
made a crown colony and has since enjoyed steady growth and
almost uninterrupted prosperity. The colony was increased
in 1860 by the acquisition of the Kowloon peninsula, just
across the harbor from Hongkong, and an additional piece of
territory was acquired by lease in 1898, the whole territory
now amounting to 400 square miles.
The Colony is administered by a Governor, who is aided
by an J{xecutive Council of seven mem!)crs, two of whom
are unofficial. The Legislative Council is composed of the
Colonial Secretary, the Commander of the 'Troops, the
Treasurer, the Attorney-General, Director of Public Works,
Captain Superintendent of Police, Secretary for Chinese
Affairs, four British and two Chinese unofficial members.
The port remained free until 1909, except for opium, but
s.ince that time duties on spirits and wines have been added,
'travelers’ personal baggage is rarely examined.
The winter months of November to February offer the
best season in which to visit Hongkong, wh n the climate
will be found very pleasant and cool. March, April and May
are usually very damp and rainy and during the summer
tropical weather prevails, with practically no cool days to
relieve the monotonous heat.
HONGKONG
287
Outside of official documents one rarely hears the name
Victoria, the city being commonly given the name of the
island. The city is in a graceful curve five miles long
around the shores of the bay on the north of the island. The
business houses of the foreground and the residences in the
rear stretch back in a succession of tiers which reach several
hundred feet up the side of the peak. The background of
this impressive picture, as viewed from the harbor, is the
Peak, 1823 feet high. In the effort to escape the enervating
damp heat of the summer, many houses have been built on
the Peak, most of them being perched on narrow ledges quar-
ried out of the side of the hill and reached by a precipitous
flight of steps. The city has a population of over 450,000.
Exclusive of the army and navy, the foreign white population
numbers a litte more than 6,000. The general landing stage
for passengers is at Blake Pier, which is only a few minutes^
walk from the center of the city. Part of the water-front
street is known officially as Connaught Road, but the name
Praya is usually given to the entire stretch of street. Parallel
with this road runs Des Voeux Road and above that Queen’s
Road. The latter was formerly just above high-water mark
and the ground now betw^een it and the shqre has been re-
claimed. The principal business houses are found on these
three streets. Close to the business streets are located tlic
Chinese residences. They are not packed together on narrow
streets as in .the cities of China proper, for the streets of
Hongkong are fairly wide. Instead, the residences are high
tenement-like structures, containing many sinall rooms and a
population almost as dense as in the crowded cities of the
mainland. These rather squalid buildings afford an interest-
ing contrast to the fine residences of the foreigners, on the
Peak.
“There arc grander sights to be seen in the world, but
few more picturesque and graceful than that of Hongkong,
the entrance to the harbor and the panoramic view from the
mountain. Coming from east or west, you pass by islands,
or rather rocks, which are grey and naked, and glitter in the
sunshine. It is a desolate region ; not a vestige of vegetation,
238
HANDBOOK POR CHINA
not a trace of human life. The Portuguese have named this
group of islands the Ladrones — a name which they well merit;
for they have been for centuries, and still are, the resort of
pirates and robbers. Gliding between them, the vessel
approaches to a point from which Hongkong is seen, at no
great distance; a greyish mass standing out in relief, though
the neighboring land can yet scarcely be distinguished.
Little by little objects can be discerned; masses of verdure
here and there on the peaks ; a pane of glass glittering on the
summit of a pavilion amongst the trees. Suddenly the vessel
makes a curve, and the narrow channel discloses a fleet of
ships, junks and sampans ; the extended curve of quays ; the
regular line of buildings, and above them, rising on a succes-
sion of hill slopes, the villas in tiers along the zigzigs of the
mountain roads.’**
As the principal tourist point on the China coasL Hong-
kong abounds in curio shops stocked with Chinese, Indian
and Japanese goods. Most of the Chinese articles come
from Canton and Swatow, the distinctive local products
being Canton furniture and Swatow lace. The large porce-
lain shops, while offering nothing extraordinary, are well
stocked. Several of them have their goods marked in plain
prices, with labels giving descriptions of the pieces, a practice
which does not prevail in any other part of China.
Every visitor to Hongkong takes a trip to the Flagstaff,
to see the fine panorama which stretches out on' all sides. At
one’s feet lies the city outlined against the busy harbor, where
large steamers look like sampans. Eighty miles to the north,
if the day 5s clear, may be seen a grey speck, which is Canton,
the. largest city in China. Nearer at hand on the island are
Pokfolum reservoir, the village of Aberdeen to the south, and
Mountain Lodge, the summer residence of the governor of
the colony.
The interesting Botanical Gardens occupy a tract of eight
acres and are worth a visit. They can be reached by chair
in ten minutes from the principal hotels. Some of the finest
* "The Colonization of Indo-China,** by J. Chailley-Bert.
HONGKONG
289
scenery on the island can be seen on a chair ride to the
Tytam reservoir, about five miles distant from the city. The
route should lead by way of Bowen Road and over the Wong
Nei Cheong Gap. An interesting ricsha ride may be taken
over Jubilee Road to the fishing village of Aberdeen. It is
at this point that the Dragon boat races of Hongkong are
held annually. At Pokfolum is the important publishing
plant of the French mission. It comprises a complete type-
casting plant, where types of all the Oriental languages are
cast, said to be the most complete collection of types of this
kind in existence. The first dictionary of the Tibetan
language was published here. This is also the location of the
mission’s sanatorium, which stands on a large well-wooded
tract. In the vicinity are a number of pretentious Chinese
graves belonging to wealthy native families.
The principal educational institution of the colony is
Hongkong University, established largely through the liber-
ality of British, Chinese and Parsee gentlemen living in
Hongkong. The foundation stone was laid March 16, 1910.
The handsome building, occupying a site' about halfway
up the side of the Peak, is a prominent landmark from the
harbor.
Mission work began in Hongkong practically from the date
of the establishment of the colony, for mission institutions
which had previously found in Macao refuge from Chinese
opposition moved over to Hongkong with the British occupa-
tion. St. John’s Cathedral (Anglican) was erected in 1842.
Its architectural pretensions are not great J)ut the interior
woodwork shows fine Chinese carving. Other local religious
buildings are St. Peter’s (for sailors) ; St. Stephen’s (for
Chinese), Union Church, Wesleyan Chapel, Roman Catholic
Cathedral, St. Joseph's Church, St. Francis’ Church and
Church of the Sacred Heart. There are a Jewish sypagogue,
two Mohammedan mosques and one Sikh temple. A number
of Protestant mission chapels are maintained in various parts
of the city. St. Joseph's College is a school for boys managed
by the Christian Brothers (Roman Catholic). The Italian
Con^j^ent educates girls and brings up orphans. The Asile dc
290
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
la Sainte Enfance, conducted by French sisters, takes care
of many Chinese foundlings. Prominent among the many
other missionary institutions are: the Diocesan Home and
Orphanage, the Berlin Foundling Hospital, the Baxtor
Vernacular School, the Victoria Female Home and Orphanage
and St. Paul’s College. Roman Catholic, Protestant, Jewish,
Parsee and Mohammedan Cemeteries occupy sites in Wong-
nai Chung Valley.
Ferries which leave every ten and fifteen minutes convey
passengers from. Hongkong across the harbor to Kowloon.
The city of Kowloon is on the cast of the peninsula, a half
hour's riesha ride from the ferry landing. It is a walled city
of small importance, but will give the hurried visitor a good
idea of the character of purely Chinese cities, if he has not
time to visit Canton or other larger and more interesting
places.
The Canton-Kowloon Railway afTords the quickest route
between Hongkong and Canton, though travelers usually
arrange to travel one way by steamer and the other by rail,
as both routes are beautiful and interesting. The Kowloon
terminus of the road is close to the ferry landing, but the
Canton station is ZYi miles from the foreign settlement of
Shaniecn. However, it is connected by a good macadam
road, witli rieshas always available. The British section of
tliis road, 2Z miles, e.xtending from Kowloon to Eowu, on
the Chinese frontier, is one of the most expensive pieces of
road in the world, costing about £50,000 per mile. ' The most
difficult engineering feat was the tunneling of Beacon Hill
for a distance of 7200 feet. The Chinese section, which
connects with the British, is 89 miles long, giving the whole
road a length of 777 miles. The road will ultimately be the
southern terminus of the Canton-Haiikow Railway, which
will plaie Canton and Hongkong in aknost direct rail com-
munication with Paris.
Canton.— -Eighty miles from Hongkong, at the apex of the
delta of the Pearl river, is Canton, the commercial metropolis
of South China, the most advanced, the largest, and the most
turbulent city in the country. Steamer fare from Hongkong,
CANTOK
291
$3.50 to $5. Post offices: British, French, and Japanese*
Population, 2,000,000. There are several foreign style hotels.
Old as Canton is in comparison with the most ancient
cities of Europe, it belongs to a much later date in Chinese
history than that of the older cities of the north. It was a few
centuries before the Christian Era when the immigrants
from the basin of the Yellow River in the north reached
Canton as the most southern representatives of the rapidly
expanding Chinese people. According to local tradition, at
about the same time five fairy men arrived from the north on
the backs of goats, each bearing a stalk of grain and a mess-
age bidding the people in Canton to live in peace and pros-
perity-advice which they have only half followed, for while
the city has usually been prosperous it has seldom been peace-
ful. The fairies disappeared. The goats turned to stone and
can still be seen by the skeptical. From this circumstance Can-
ton is known as “The City of Hams.“
It is from Canton that practically all the Chinese in
America come, and they with their neighbors of Fukien settl-
ed in Hawaii, Philippines, and overran Java, Siam and the
other places of the Far East. Many of these emigrants
returned to their loved birthplace after amassing fortunes
abroad, bringing with them advanced ideas of government.
Those who did not return kept in touch with relatives at home
through letters and remittances, giving all Cantonese a
broader view of the world than that possessed by their more
secluded countrymen. Far removed from the power of Peking
the Cantonese never held the authority of the Imperial govern-
ment in very high regard. Songs reviling the Manchu govern-
ment were sold or sung openly on the streets of Canton when
similar action w'as met with dire punishment in other Chinese
cities.
The Chinese have a saying, “Everything new originates
in Canton.” and this is especially true of things political.
It was in this southern city that the plots which
resulted in the Republican revolution were hatched, and
during that brief but dramatic struggle the principal parts
were* played by Cantonese. For many years before this, the
292
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
«[uick-witted Cantonese had taken high honors at the ofBeial
examinations, much to the displeasure of the ruling Manchus,
who saw in every one of them a potential enemy to the
monarchy. Many of the best known men in China are
Cantonese.
Halfway from Hongkong to Canton, the comfortable
passenger steamers which make the trip daily pass through
Bocca Tigris (Tigers Mouth), the name given by early
Portuguese traders to the narrow point in the estuary. A
little farther on is Whampoa, where the famous clipper tea
ships of half a century ago dropped anchor while loading to
start on their race with the first tea of the season to the
Boston, Salem and Liverpool markets.
For many centuries Canton was surrounded by a wall
almost six miles in circumference and the streets were
world-famous for their narrowness. Now, however, the
v/all has been torn down, the moat filled up and the city pos-
sesses many miles of well paved streets 80 to 150 feet wide
and the motor car long since ceased to be a novelty. An
electric tramway which will connect the principal parts of
the city is under way. Banked for miles along the river are
thousands of Chinese water craft on which live a population
of several hundred thousands. Tens of thousands are born
live and die on these boats, forming a community complete
in itself, containing beggars, priests, workmen and
thousands of families whose ancestors were als-o members
of the boating population of Canton in former days. The
occasional typhoons create havoc on the river and cause
great loss of life among this population. House boats,
furnished with modern furniture, lighted with electricity
and run by steam, are among the modern facilities for
traveling on the river.
The Portuguese first came to Canton in 1511, but the
foreign trade of the city far antedates their visit. The tall
minaret known as the Plain Pagoda, is a Moslem mosque
built by Arabian voyagers and traders more than a thousand
years ago that they might have a place of worship on their
occasional visits to Canton. The Arabian trade with China
CAJfTO:^
293
ended many centuries ago, but the Moslem religion remains.
Early British traders came to Canton about 100 years
after the Portuguese and for many years carried on trade
with the natives, all of the dealings being through the
famous Chinese merchant's guild known as the Co-hong of
Canton. Sailing vessels came from Liverpool, Salem.
Boston and New York and returned laden with silks and
tea. The American vessels left the Atlantic coast laden with
cotton prints and other cheap goods. They sailed through
the Straits of Magellan and on the west coast of Canada
traded their cargo to Indians for furs or in Hawaii bartered
with the natives for sandalwood. These articles, highly
prized by the Chinese, were exchanged at Canton for tea
and silk. The sailing vessel might return home in two years
and if the voyage was fortunate, the owner would make
a fortune from one trip.
Until the Treaty of Nanking was signed (1841) all foreign
trade was confined to Canton and both the Chinese and the
foreign merchants who engaged in it made enormous profits.
With the opening of other ports, and especially with the
development of Hongkong as a British colony, Canton has
lest its old dominant position, but still remains a very im-
portant center of Chinese trade. A railway has been com-
pleted'from Canton to Kowloon, and one of the next links to
be added to the railway system of China will be the line
between Canton and Hankow. When it is completed Canton
will secure a great part of the traffic which now goes north
from Hongkong by way of the coast steamers.
When the foreign residents of Canton returned after the
war with Great Britain, in 1841, they found their residences and
factories in ruins and Shameen was granted to them as a place
of residence. It was then only a sandy mud flat, but has
since been converted into a handsome foreign-residence
section, separated from the western suburb of Canton by a
canal. It is here that the foreigners live and the traveler will
find accommodations at the Victoria Hotel. One-third of the
island is French and two-thirds British. It has been planted
with trees and is one of the pleasantest places of residence
2)1
BANDBOOK FOB CHIXA
in tropical China. Zest rather than danger is added to
residence there by reason of the occasional disturbances in
Canton, and the presence of pirates in the canals of the delta.
Several hundred temples in addition to pavilions, an«
oestral halls and other show places are located in Canton,
The most famous of Canton temples no longer exists for its
hundreds of priests have been driven out and it is now the
home of the Non Wo Middle School, whose students have
distinguished themselves in athletics. Among the places
well worth visiting are : The Flowery Pagoda, Five Storey
Pagoda, Temple of Five Genii and the Calamity Bell which
never sounds except to herald calamity to the city, Smooth
Pagoda, Mohammedan Mosque, Temple of the Three Great
Buddhas, Temple of Horrors, Temple of Honan, Chan's
Temple, Provincial Mint, Kwangtung Arsenal at Shektseng,
the Provincial Assembly Building, Christian College, the
Flower Gardens in Fati, the Old Viceroys Yamen, and First
Middle School Grounds.
Canton is the home of many Chinese industries, and the
Cantonese workmen are as famous for their skill as are the
Cantonese literati for their learning. The finest blackwood
furniture in China is made in Canton, while their tortoise
shell, lacquer, stoneware, fans and pottery enjoy a world-wide
reputation. No trip to Canton is complete without a.visit to
the street where the workmen inlay kingfishers’ feathers and
silver, and to the Chy Loong ginger works, where candied
ginger was put up for our grandfathers.
Among the unique industries of Canton are silk weaving
in its most intricate forms, crystal eye-glass making, glazing
cloth with half ton stone without heat, tobacco pressing and
cutting, ivory carving, bone cutting and carving, blackwood
or ebony work, grass matting weaving, lacquer work, mother-
of-pearl work, inlaid ware, groundnut oil presses, primitive
dye works, manufacture of pewter ware, incense sticks, and
glass blowing. Some of the streets of Canton are too narrow
ior rieshas, and guides with sedan chairs await visitors in the
shady streets of Shameen. The guide’s wage is a dollar a
(day ; the chairs, with four borers, cost $3.00 to $4.00 a day
kwangtunc province
29S
or $1.50 to $2.00 for half day. Anot'ier dollar will usually bo
expended in tips.
There are several interesting places near Canton, which
can be reached from Shameen. Fati, opposite Canton, is
famous for its gardens, while a trip to White Cloud Mountain
will be found very enjoyable.
Among the most important missionary enterprises in the
city is Canton Christian College, supported by the American
Union Missions. Religious services in English are held at
the Chapel (Anglican) in Shameen and at Canton Hospital.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral is located in the Chinese City
and the Chapel in Shameen. The American Presbyterian
and Baptist Churches maintain many missionary enterprises
in Canton, including theological seminaries, girls' and boys'
schools, etc. The Baptist Publication Society's printing
office is located in Tungshan, east of the city.
Kwangtung Province. — The area of Kwangtung Province
is 100,000 square miles and its population is 31 millions.
It lies almost wholly in the tropics and the area, well divided
between mountain and plain, is watered by four large rivers.
The principal products are silk, sugar, indigo, rice, tea,
tobacco, salt, oil, fish and live stock. The graceful banyan
tree is found in all parts of the province except the coast.
There are banana plantations along the East River, while
olives, lichees, pumeloes, oranges and other fruits are also
grown and find their w^ay to the Yangtsze Valley markets.
Camphor trees are abundant at Sunning and there are dense
palm groves in the Sunwi district. The palms are cultivated
for fans, of which millions are exported annually. Though
the province is densely populated, tigers and leopards are
still numerous and have been seen within twenty miles of
Canton. The coast line of the province is nearly 800 miles
long, and the deforested hills which mark a great part of it
are barren and desolate. The view from the sea gives no
hint of the existence of the rich agricultural districts of the
interior.
Because of its excellent harbors and its nearness to old
trade routes, it became the center for an extensive foreiga
handbook BOR CHINA
trade in ancient times» being in touch with the Arabs and the
Roman Empire for many centuries before the development of
modern foreign trade began. More recently it was the scene
of the pioneer work of foreign merchants and missionaries,
holding first place as a mercantile and missionary center until
superseded by the development of the Yantsze Valley. From
this province come the ablest and most enterprising of mer-
chants to be found in all the ports of China. The “Canton
Guilds'* and the “Swatow Guilds’* are powerful in the trading
communities of the country, being found in force in Shang-
hai, Tientsin, Hankow and other large commercial centers.
The province contains a large population of Hakkas, whom
the Cantonese insist on regarding as aliens. For the most part
the Hakkas occupy scattered villages and hamlets in the
mountains. They are a vigorous people, mainly agricultural,
and are probably better educated than those who live in the
crowded plains. Kwangtung province has furnished most of
jthe emigrants to Singapore and other parts of the Straits
Settlements, America, Australia and South Africa. Remit-
tances of millions of dollars annually from these emigrants
help to relieve the poverty of this overcrowded province.
Some of the wealthiest men in the province are returned
emigrants who amassed fortunes abroad. Piracy has always
prevailed near Canton, where the delta of the West river with
its numerous estuaries and coves affords ideal hiding places
for the pirates.
One little known part of the province is the island of
Hainan. The central and southern portions of this island are
covered with densely wooded hills inhabited by aborigines.
There arc many valuable and undeveloped forests of hard-
wood including rosewood and mahogany. The natives cut
nothing but aromatic woods which are sold in all parts of
China for use as beads, etc. There are great opportunities
for development here, hut efforts in that direction have been
retarded by the climate of the place, its lack of communi-
cations, etc. Tropical plants from Singapore have been grown
there with success and it is believed that rubber and camphor
would thrive.
MACAO
297
Macao. — Distant 35 miles from Hongkong is Macao,
equally interesting for its history, for the natural beauty of its
location and for the quaint mixture of thfi Orient with
mediaeval Europe, as seen in its buildings. The steamer trip
is made in three hours from Hongkong and should not be
omitted from any tour to southern China.
Macao is the oldest outpost of Europe in its intercourse
with China. The Portuguese established themselves here in
1557, and by a fortunate circumstance gained the good will
of the Chinese authorities. The coast was menaced by a
strong band of pirates, with whom the Chinese officials were
unable to deal, and the Portuguese colonists were asked to
help. They helped with such success that the pirates were
driven away, and out of gratitude the Chinese asked the
colonists to settle on the narrow end of the peninsula, which
has since been their home. The land was held at a nominal
rental from the Emperor of China of 500 taels a year, but in
1848 Governor Ferreira do Amaral took advantage of other
difficulties which engaged the attention of China to refuse
further payments and drove out the Chinese customs house,
together with every vestige of Chinese authority. It was
probably because of this that he was treacherously murder-
ed in August, 1849, and his head taken to Canton. The
comiilcte sovereignty of Portugal over the place was not
fully recognized by China until 1887, when a new treaty was
signed.
For several centuries Macao was the principal trading
point between China and the west, especially inf he eighteenth
century. The cession of Hongkong to Great Britain created
a dangerous competitor and since then Macao has steadily
declined as a commercial center. Hongkong was made a free
port and when the authorities of Macao attempted by reduc-
ing the customs dues, to regain the trade they had lost it was
found the change had come too late. Its harbor has silted up
and it has no important trade at present. Many of the
Macanese have removed to Hongkong, and Macao is now
chiefly a pleasure resort for South China. Some fine old
European furniture remains in many of the older houses of
293
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
Macao and one is occasionally able to pick up a good piece
in the second-hand shops. It is known as “the Monte Carlo
of the Far Ea'st” and the whole purpose of the government
of the place seems to be to derive revenue from gambling,
opium and lotteries, which have been driven out of Chinese
cities. The Pan Tan houses of Macao are famous along the
whole China coast and one of the principal industries of the
place is derived from the sale of lottery tickets. But despite
its vice, Macao is as quiet and has an appearance as purit-
anical as that of a New England village.
The area of Macao is eleven square miles, and with its
dependencies it has a population of 78,000. Of the original
1000 Portuguese families which settled in the place, little
remains but the Portuguese names, for long intermarriage with
the Chinese has resulted in the domination of Chinese blood.
Of the present population, the Portuguese of pure blood are
confined almost exclusively to the government officials, police
and soldiers, a total of probably less than 100. The troopers
from Goa, in their Indian costume, add color to the street
scenes of the place.
The blue, pink, yellow and brown buildings of Macao
rise on a hillside overlooking a beautiful crescent-shaped bay,
the appearance of the city being quite unlike that of any other
city in the Orient The buildings are neither Chinese nor
foreign, but a strange combination of the two, clearly show-
ing the survival of mediaeval Portuguese influenc/5. Standing
out high against the sky line is the fine facade of the San
Paulo cathedral, built in 1594 by the Jesuits, and destroyed by
fire in 1835. The Praia Grande, one of the famous streets of
the Orient, fronts the sea for a mile and a half, the entire
length being faced by an embankment of stone. The harbor
is picturesque but useless, for it is so shallow that only
small Chinese junks can anchor there. The small flat-bot-
tomed steamers from Hongkong and Canton use the inner
harbor, lying between the peninsula and the island of Lappa.
An excellent view of the entire city and the surrounding
territory can be had from the residence of the bishop, the blue
building at the top of the hill, near the Boa Vista Hotel. The
Tbs west RiTER
299
parapets around the residence and the little chapel are always
open to visitors.
The incorporated name of the city is “ City of the Name
of God, Moat Loyal of the Colonies, a name accorded it in
1642. It has always lived up to the latter part of its name,
and its history contains many passages telling how the
brave Macanese held the place against attacks of Dutch and
Chinese.
Camoens, the great Portuguese poet, lived in Macao as a
political exile and wrote some of his greatest poems here.
The grotto in which he worked is always open to visitors. It
is situated in the Casa garden, recently purchased by the
Portuguese government and improved by ornamental walks
and the planting of trees until it is one of the prettiest spots
in the Orient. The grotto, near the center of the garden, is
formed by several huge boulders, and the bust of the poet now
stands on the spot where he sat when writing the latter part
of his epic poem “The Lusiad.”
Near the entrance to the garden is the English church
and in the old Protestant cemetery at the back lie buried
many who were prominent in the early history of foreign
intercourse with China. Among the graves are those of Rev.
Robert Morrison, the pioneer missionary who made the first
translation of the Bible into Chinese ; George Chinnery, the
painter ; Sir Philip le Fleming Senhouse, the British Admiral ;
and Lord Henry Churchill, captain of ‘*The Druid.” Many
of the gravestones bear the names of American seamen from
Salem and Boston, mementos of the time when Massachusetts
skippers and representatives of the F^ast India Company were
keen rivals for the tea trade of South China.
In spite of the fact that it is no longer a city of any
commercial importance, Macao retains a few factories and
carries on a small trade in tea, silk, tobacco, and firecrackers.
A small village near the city is devoted to the making of fire-
crackers for sale in the United Statei.
The West River.— Until so recent a date as 1897, West
River, the principal waterway of South China, was closed to
all navigation by foreigners, and the rich territory through
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
3 JO
which it flows was scaled to the outside world. But m that
year the river was opened to foreign trade and since then it
has formed one of the most interesting parts of the itineraries
of many travelers.
The river rises in the hills of Yunnan and flows into the
sea a short distance from Macao, the length of the stream
being about 1000 miles. A trip on one of the stern-wheel
steamers which ply from Hongkong will take the traveler into
the heart of China, where he will have an opportunity to see
Chinese life as it exists where the natives have not been
brought into contact with foreigners.
The river at the point where it flows into the sea is
divided into a delta of countless streams and a trip of sixty
miles or more through narrow creeks surrounded on all sides
by cultivated rice fields is necessary before the West River
proper is reached. The principal towns passed on the trip to
Wuchow-fu arc Kum-chuck, Tak-hing and Samshui. The
following outline of a West River trip is suggested by the
Hongkong office of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son :
The steamer leaves Hongkong on the evening of the
first day. On the second day, in the morning, it arrives at
Samshui and remains there until 4:30 p. m., giving pas-
sengers time to see the ancient walled city of Samshui, etc.
On the third day it arrives at Wuchow-fu between noon and
4 p.m. The boat remains at Wuchow-fu the fourth day,
giving plenty of time to see the temples and the vejry interest-
ing town. Sailing at 4 p.m. the boat arrives at ' Samshui
early on the fifth day, and here passengers who are in a hurry
can catch a train reaching Canton by noon, spending the
afternoon in Canton and reaching Hongkong by midnight of
the fifth day.
* Amoy.— Three hundred miles north of Hongkong at the
mouth of the Pei Chi, or Dragon river, is the island of Hai-
mon, on which the city of Amoy is located. The city was
opened to foreign trade in 1842. Hotels : Sea View, New
Amoy Hotel. British, French, and Japanese post offices.
“Perhaps no place along this entire coast has had a more
interesting and exciting story to tell than this same small
AMOY
301
island, scarcely eight miles across. Many are the stirring
events which have taken place here and in the neighborhood.
For hundreds of years it was the rendezvous of bold buc-
caneers and unscrupulous adventurers, who, ravishing and
plundering its inhabitants without mercy, made off with the
spoils only to return another day to renew their wild depre-
dations more violently than before. It has been the theater
of many a fierce struggle, and the strong strategical position,
or gateway to rJI the vast territory beyond (even Formosa
itself,) coveted alike by the Manchus, the Long-haired Rebels,
the Dutch and the Japanese." *
The Portuguese s<^ttlcd here in 1544, about the time they
were driven from Ningpo by the Chinese government, but as
in Ningpoi trouble arose between the foreigners aud the
Chinese government and the foreigners were expelled and
their vessels burned. A hundred years later the famous
Koxiiiga held the place against the Manchus and even chang-
ed its name to Subengsu, which means “the island that
remembers the Mings." “He collected a band of followers
several thousand strong, andsetuphis standards (1647) on
the island of Kolongsu, an island just opposite Amoy. He
had, it is said, a fleet of 8000 war junks, 240,000 fighting
men, 8000 ironsides ; and with all the pirates that infested the
coast of southern China under his command he claimed to
have a combined force of 800,000 men. In training his
men, we are told, he used a stone lion weighing over 600
pounds to test the strength of his soldiers. Those who were
strong enough to lift this stone and walk off with it were
selected for his own body-guard named the Tiger Guards.'
They wore iron masks and iron aprons; they carried bows
and arrows painted in red and green stripes, matching with
long-handled swords used for killing horses ; and they were
stationed in the van that they might maim the horses’ legs.
They were his most reliable troops and were called Tron-
jidcs.’”*
At length, in 1680, after the death of Koxinga, the
• “In and About Anuoy,” by Rev. Philip Wilton Pitcher.
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HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
Manchus succeeded in establishing their authority in Anioy»
long after they had subdued the remainder of the country.
The city was built probably during the Ming dynasty
and now has a population of about 400,000, with 100,000
additional living in the other villages of the island. The
city, surrounded by a wall, is divided by a high rocky ridge,
surmounted by fortified walls. The bay with its numerous
islands crowned by psgodas and temples presents a beautiful
scene. The foreign settlement is on Kolongsu, opposite the
city, and is one of the prettiest in all China. During the
autumn and winter (October to February) the climate here
is delightful. It lies in the typhoon area, but Formosa
acts as a protecting barrier against the worst fury of the
typhoons.
One of thj famous sights of China is a stone bridge 20
miles up the river from Amoy. The bridge, 1100 feet long,
is constructed of giant spans of granite, some of them being
113 feet long, 6 feet wide and 5 feet thick, weighing 200 tons.
Local history affords no clue as to how these giant slabs were
put into place, nor does any one know where they were
brought from. A huge rocking stone back of the Chinese
city has been locally famous for centuries.
In addition to the Roman Catholics, three protestant
•organizations, the Presbyterian Church of England, the
London Missionary Society and Reformed church in
America, maintain chapels, hospitals and schools in Amoy.
Long before Amoy attained any importance, another
city called Zayton flourished in this neighborhood. Opinion
differs as to whether it was Chuan-Chow-fu, or Halting of
the present day, but there is no doubt about its being one of
the greatest commercial centers of the world, carrying on a
huge trade with India. It was from this ancient city that the
word saiift originated.
Foochow.— Foochow, the capital of Fukien province, is
located on the north side of the Min river, 34 miles from the
sea and 455 miles from Hongkong, or halfway between
Shanghai and Hongkong. Population 650,000. Chinese,
British and Japanese post offices.
FOOCHOW
303
The walled city is about two miles from the river bank
but a crowded suburb fills up the space between with a nu-
merous population. The walls, with a circuit of seven miles,
are built around three tree-covered hills (\Vushihshan,Yushan
and Tingshan) which give the city a picturesque appearance.
Foochow is known as “The Banyan City” and this magnificent
shade tree is found at its best in Fukien Province.
The scenery approaching Foochow from the sea and
about the city is magnificent. Vessels from the sea leave the
wide shallow stream for the narrower Kimpai Pass, 1/2 mile
across and enclosed in bold rock walls. The pass of Mingan
is even narrower, enclosed by towering terraced cliffs which
have been compared to those of the Rhine. “All around were
monuments of the past. At the entrance stood a tower on
the crest behind Sharp Peak; it w'as erected by a wife to
welcome back her husband from a voyage, but when he saw
the strange mark he concluded he had mistaken the estuary,
and sailed away never to return. Here w^as a post to com-
memorate a wreck, here an old beacon superseded by electric
telegraphy; yonder were forts to guard the passes. Here
was one of a pair of mandarin’s feet in the live rock. Sacri-
legious quarrymen were not debarred from carving away its
fellow by the blood which followed the strokes of the chisel,
but detached it and took it up to build a bridge, where it
assumed the offensive and kicked the masons into the river;
so the hint* was taken and the foot was allowed to follow
them ; this one remains here to prove the story.” Foreign
vessels, owing to the shallow draught of the river, anchor
at Pagoda Island fifteen miles away. In the war with
France, the French fleet steamed into the gulf and destroyed
the arsenal. As a means of preventing another attack of that
kind, barges loaded with stone were sunk in the channel,
adding more difficulties to the navigation of the stream.
Opposite the town, on Nantai island is a stone bridge,
435 yards in length. It was built in 1324 under authority of
the Emperor, by a monk much more enterprising than any
of those of the present day.
Foreign attention was first attracted to Foochow by the
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HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
famous Bohca tea grown in the Bohea hills in the extreme
north of the province. There was formerly a large trade in
this tea, but there is no longer much demand for it, the trade
with England having been supplanted by Ceylon teas. Foo-
chow people excel in lacquer work, the finest being made by
the She Shao-an family which has followed the trade for
many generations. In the exhibits of lacquerware at the St.
Louis Exposition, the first prize went to Foochow. The
manufacture of silver jewelry in which kingfishers' feathers
are inlaid is one of the most interesting to visitors. Silk and
woolen stuffs and household furniture are also manufactured
and camphor and oranges exported.
Two well-preserved pagodas are among the interesting
local sights. The Black Pagoda was built in 780 to com-
memorate the birthday of an Emperor and 100 years later the
White Pagoda was built as an act of filial piety. It is of seven
stories and 261 feet high. The Foochow hot springs in the
eastern part of the city are quite famous among the Chinese
and are credited with great curative powers.
The name Foochow first appears in Chinese history
during the Tang dynasty. When that dynasty fell it became
an independent state under the rule of the King of Min, but
a century later was reunited under the Sung dynasty. If the
.visitor is fortunate he may able to see some of the dog-
worshiping aborigines who live in the hills near by. Their
race is unmixed with Chinese and they worship a, dog as their
great ancestor.
The Min river is navigable for almost 300 miles from
Foochow and the scenery along its course is splendid, prob-
ably the finest in all of China.
The Min Monastery, Moon Temple and Kushan Mon-
astery, on hills near Foochow, all have beautiful sites and are
fine specimens of Chinese architecture. Kuliang, a mountain
resort 2900 feet high, nine miles to the cast of Foochow, is
popular with local foreign residents in the summer months. It
is also frequented by foreigners from Amoy, making a total
summer population of more than 300. It can be reached by
a four-hours' chair trip.
FUKIEN PROYINCB
30S
American misiionary work is important at Foochow,
among the prominent enterprises being a Union Medical
School for men, supported by three missions. The American
Board and the American Methodist Episcopal board maintain
colleges, hospitals, orphanages, etc. A Roman Catholic
foundling asylum is under the direction of the Spanish
Dominican Sisters,
Fukien Province.— The province of Fukien is one of
the smallest and most densely populated, containing an area
of 46,320 square miles and a population of 22 millions. The
province is an almost unbroken stretch of hills and forests,
the only plains being small and near the coast. “It is on the
higher slopes of these mountains that most of the tea which
finds its way to the marts of England and America is grown.
The famous Bohea hills are at the extreme north of Fukien.*
In addition to tea growing the chief industries arc paper
making and cloth weaving. The timber supply of the province
has been greatly diminished. The export of timber in 1846
was estimated at £2,000,000 but in recent years the entire
trade was but little more than one tenth of that amount.
The chief timber supplies at present come from the head-
waters of the Min. The mountainous character of the
country makes transportation difficult and the roads consist
chiefly of rough blocks of granite which follow the easiest
routes through a country where a dead level is unknown.
The need for transportation is inadequately supplied by the
streams, all crowded with boats. The southern half of Fukien
is undeveloped and is little known to foreigners. It is broken
and mountainous, sparsely populated and densely wooded.
The province was one of the first to gain by the development
of foreign trade owing to the large demand for Fukien tea,
but with the development of Ceylon and India teas, this trade
has fallen off. The partial failure of this industry and the
natural difficulties encountered in gaining a livelihood in such
a picturesque and mountainous country has caused a large
immigration from the province, second only to that of
Kwangtung. All of the Chinese in the Philippine Islands
come from Amoy, and are known by the Filipinos as Amoy-
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HANDBOOK fOVL CHINA
istas.*' In ancient times Fukien, like other parts of South
China, was inhabited by a number of semi-barbarous tribes,
each under a separate ruler. As a result the province exhibits
great linguistic difficulties, almost every community having
its separate dialect, often unknown thirty miles away.
Swatow’*— Swatow is a fine harbor 180 miles from
Hongkong. British and Japanese post offices. As the seaport
of the important towns of Chao-Chow-fu and San-ha-up, 40
miles up the river, Swatow was opened to foreign trade by
the treaty of 1858. But the early traders, who began
carrying emigrant coolies from the place soon turned their
attention to kidnapping ; and so many Chinese were carried
away to be sold into what was practically slavery, that there
was intense hatred of the foreigners. No foreigner entered
the city gates for several years after the promulgation of the
treaty, and it was not until a few years ago that they were
able to travel in the vicinity without annoyance and insult.
However, all that is changed now and Swatow has a number
of foreign residences and a foreign hotel, the Astor House,
Emigration from Swatow has been revived along legitimate
lines and now amounts to about 100,000 yearly, the returning
emigrants numbering about 80,000. A railroad, water works
and an electric light plant are among the modern improve-
ments boasted by the city. Swatow and surrounding country
are not especially interesting c-xcept for the local manu-
factures and curios. The city is famous for grass cloth,
pewter ware, drawn work and fans. Although these articles
are all on sale in Hongkong, they can be secured at cheaper
prices in' Swatow. Population 60,000.
Chao Chow-fu. — A short line of railway connects Swa-
tow with Chao Chow-fu, the scene of the exploits of Han Yu,
or Han Weu-kung, China’s prototype of St. Patrick, who is
patron saint of the Chao Chow plain and a national hero
honored in all parts of China. In 814 A. D. the Emperor
made elaborate arrangements to receive a bone of Buddha at
the court and Confucianists of the day saw in this a great
danger to Chinese civilization. The statesman Han Yu, who
was noted for his outspokenness, wrote a memorial against
YUNNAN
307
the proposed action, its effect being later decribed as follows:
^‘Truth began to be obscured and literature to fade; super-
natural religions sprang up on all sides, and many eminent
scholars failed to oppose their advance until Han Yu, the
cotton clothed, arose and blasted them with his derisive
sneer.” For this rash action Han Yu was banished to Chao
Chow, then peopled by tribes but little removed from a state
of barbarism. In less than a year he had established schools
here and had given such a stimulus to education that the re-
sidents of the place were noted for their learning centuries
afterwards. According to local tradition the rivers of Chao
Chow were then infested by crocodiles which devoured the
domestic animals and kept the people in a state of terror.
Han Yu was implored to rid the country of these reptiles
which he proceeded to do according to the classic Chinese
custom. He wrote an ultimatum to the crocodiles, which was
thrown into the water with a pig and a goat, and the reptiles
thereupon disappeared, never to be seen again. Shrines in
the neighborhood commemorate this exploit and the ultima-
tum remains to this day a model of literary style. It may also
be added that there are no crocodiles in the neighborhood.
Yunnan. — The province of Yunnan lies in the extreme
southwest of China. It is of a mountainous character with
large open plateaus of considerable altitude. 'J ill the opening
of the Tonkin-Yunnan railway by French enterprise a few
years sinqeithe province was very much isolated, communi-
cation being difficult, slow and costly. Now, however, the
journey from the sea at Haiphong to Yunnanfu the provincial
capital, may be made cheaply and expeditiously.
The province is of considerable interest, bordering as it
does on Tonkin to the south and Burmah to the west. The
people are of a quiet, friendly disposition and the traveler is
happily free from the prying curiosity which is so exacting
and persistent in some other provinces. .»
The valleys are occupied by Chinese who speak the usual
mandarin language of the interior, while in the mountains
one may find an almost endless variety of aboriginal tribes
such as Lolos, Miaotze, and numerous others, affording a fine
308
HANDBOOK FOR CHINA
scope for study along ethnological lines, There are many
Mohammedans in all parts of the province; hence certain
forms of provisions are available that are not usually found
in a purely Chinese community. Beef, mutton, fowls and
many kinds of fruit and vegetables are plentiful.
The climate is very much like that of Northern Califor-
nia, only the summers are much more moderate. The ther-
mometer ranges from 30*^ to 85® with a sunny, rainless
winter— the rainfall being confined to the months from May
to October. Winter is thus the time to travel par excellence
and nothing can be finer or more enjoyable than a cross-
country journey over the mountains of Yunnan in its brilliant
winter weather.
Coolies for transport of goods, and ponies for riding are
to be had always at reasonable rates. Cot beds, blankets and
the usual impedimenta of the careful traveler ire necessary.
Yunnanfu is the capital of the province, and is the
largest city in Yunnan. It lies in a well-watered extensive
plain on the east of a charming lake 23 miles long by 12
wide that lends much charm to the landscape. The elevation
of the plain, 6500 feet, ensures a comfortable climate and is a
most refreshing change from the depressing heat of Tonkin
and other shoreward places.
The city contains about 100,000 people, is surrounded
by a good wall, and is famous for its jade-cutting and metal
works such as bronze idols, incense burners, etc. •
The Confucian temple in the center of the city is worthy
of notice and may be inspected for a small gratuity to the
custodian. The buildings of the main temple are of imposing
size and well preserved, though dirty and neglected. A small
grove of cypress trees gives the touch of rusticity and solitude,
while the bridges and tanks maintain the classic touch with
the past. Across the big lake, the transit of which takes about
three hours, there is a lofty ridge with a very precipitous face
towards the cast. Here the ingenuity of the people has
combined with their religious bent to build a series of temples,
galleries and grottoes in the face of the cliff, with ornamental
balustrades excavated in the original rock at a point whence
YUNNAN
309
there is a sheer drop to the water far below. A magnificent
view opens across the lake to the picturesque city of Yunnan
and its amphitheater of mountains to the north and east. At
one point a lunching room with a round table and scats cut
from the solid rock.
Ten miles northeast of the city is Hei Lung Tan (Black
Dragon Spring,) where there is a fine temple in a grove
guarding a beautiful spring of pure water which gushes from
the limestone and goes meandering across the plain, carrying
fertility in its course.
About ten miles directly cast from the city is a bronze
temple of equal fame and beauty—Chin Tien— locally known
as “The Copper Temple.'* This gem lies in a miniature forest
and is approached from the main road by a series of paved
terraces across which gateways, arc built and named “The
First Gate of Heaven," “The Second Gate of Heaven" and
so on. The approach to the main temple is impressive though
dilapidated as is usual in even the most interesting spots in
this land.
The main temple is built wholly of bronze, even the ban-
ner and flagstaff being of that metal. A wall encloses the
temple, built to imitate a city wall; and indeed the resem-
blance to a miniature city is very striking. The temple was
built during the Ming dynasty and is said to be one of two
similar structures in China. Date of building 1628 to 1644.
A short distance from the south gate of the city is an
interesting ruin, worthy of notice by the amateur archaeo-
logist. An adobe building in a disreputable condition of
forlorn despair is an object of pride to the local Moham-
medans as being the tomb of Seyyid ed jel, a Mongol prince
who was governor of Yunnan from 1274—9, the date of his
death.
In the vicinity of Yunnan are many ruins, the result of
the Mohammedan rebellions which devastated the province
from 1855 to 1873 and came within an ace of succeeding,
being thwarted only by the defection of the principal rebel
general, Ma Ru Lung, and his men, when a ferocious
massacre took place and the country was pacified in the time-
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HANDBOOK fOH CHINA
honored manner of killing off all the rebels that could be
found.
While the city itself is smaller than most provincial
capitals there are few places that offer more attractions in
such agreeable surroundings than Yunnan. There is a
growing foreign community in which French naturally
predominates, but no traveler need long remain a stranger in
this hospitable city.
The French government supports a hospital and schools
for both boys and girls where the French language and liter-
ature is taught gratuitously. Electric light, telephones, tele-
graphs, a mint and arsenal, extensive barracks and the
ever-present soldier are evidences that Yunnan is swinging
into the modern current in common with the rest of China.
The people of the capital are quiet and reticent, generally
friendly, and phlegmatic enough to pay little attention to
a casual stranger. There is a large student population in
the schools, some seven or eight hundred being here from all
parts of the province.
The approach to the province is from Haiphong, the
principal port of the French colony of Tonkin. Haiphong
is reached by frequent steamers from Hongkong. The
French customs regulations in Tonkin are stringent in re-
.gard to merchandise, but passengers’ baggage is subjected
only to the ordinary scrutiny and rarely is there any objec-
tion raised. The exception is in the case of firearms, for
which a special permit is necessary before they can be brought
across the frontier at Ho Kou. The customs officials at that
point will arrange this matter for the traveler.
From Haiphong the traveler proceeds to Hanoi where
the first night is spent. Railroad traffic west of Hanoi is
suspended at night. Leaving Hanoi at 6.30 the next morning
the Tonkin-Chinesc frontier is reached at Lao Kay in about
twelve hours. Here the second night is spent. Good hotels
on the French plan arc availabe at all stopping places. Frcm
Lao Kay the traveler crosses into China the next morning
and travels up the valley of the Namti through some of the
most interesting scenery to be found in railroad travel. The
YUNNAN
311
line rises rapidly and is a triumph in railroad engineering.
The road crosses the plain of Mengtze, on the farther side of
which are the noted tin m4nes of Kochin. The third night
is spent at A-mi-ches, a typical Chinese city of the old type
— wall, gates, smells, etc. — with a modern suburb near the
station. The next day Yunnanfu is reached early in the even-
ing. Here there are one or two fair hotels, such as the Hotel
Terminus, where accommodations may be secured for the stay.
From Yunnan the main roads reach out to the east for
Kweichow, the next province to the cast ; to the west for
Talifu and Burmah; to the north for Szechuan and the
Yangtsze valley and to the northwest for the aboriginal
country and the borders of Tibet.
Many parts of the province are practically unknown to
foreign travelers. In the time of the Ming dynasty particularly,
banishment to the “frontiers of Yunnan" was a much dreaded
punishment. But as the province becomes better known and
more closely investigated it reveals attactions that are bound
to make it a favorite region with the tourist and explorer.
The Frenchman sees France again in the alternation of
mountain and valley and meandering rivers beneath a sun
that recalls the Riviera and its sun-bathed hills. While
Yunnanfu is at present the best known portion of the province,
the roads that connect with the southwest, northwest and
southeast parts of Yunnan offer to the traveler attractions
that will be, hard to resist.
Away down in the southeast corner of the province,
eighteen days from Yunnanfu, lies the little custom outpost of
Ssu-mao, a place opened to the foreign trade which 't was
hoped might be developed across the Shan states from British
Burmah. Here, in this remote spot, one or two foreign
gentlemen in the employ of the Chinese customs pass their
time in the midst of a highly interesting population. While
the Chinese are the ruling race, there is a medley of folks
interesting in its variety and attractive because of its prob-
lems. Shans in the valleys, Wahs in the hills and many
other kinds wedged between, a market day in Ssu-mao is a
moving picture of intensest interest. Beyond bsu-mao, in the
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HANDBOOK 9QM CHINA
triangular patch beween China, Burmah and Tonkin is a
kind of no man’s land, where adventure and discovery inVite
those whose temperament leads along that path.
To the northwest, where China impinges on Tibet and
the debatable land of the Tibetan marches, there is mufch
country of a character that appeals to the ardent traveler —
high mountain ranges with deep sheltered valleys where shy
unknown peoples live and the sportsman may still find prey
worthy of his mettle — bears, deer, leopards and many kinds
of game birds such as Lopho horus Tibetanum; tragapans
and various kinds of pheasant, golden, Reeves, Amherst and
the common China sort. To enjoy this kind of travel leisure
and temperament are needed: having which the opportunities
for enjoyment are practically unlimited.
The rate of travel along the main roads averages from 20
to 25 miles per day, going by the regular stages which are
fixed by “olo custom” and so form the most useful unit in
calculating the journey. The best inns and other accom-
modations and provisions for the road are to be found at
the regular stages, so the seasoned traveler tries to make
his halting places coincide with these. On the smaller roads
one has to trust his luck and rely upon his foresight and
backbone. ♦
From Yunnanfu to Suifu in the Yangtsze valley is a
journey of twenty-six stages — leisurely traveling. The road
passes through two large cities and the usual collection of
market villages and hamlets. Foreign residents, missionaries,
may be found at Tungchuan and Chaotung, at which points
pleasant breaks may be made in the journey.
To the west the road runs to Talifu, a journey of thirteen
days, where a halt should be made to look over the very in-
teresting country connected with the abortive rising of the
Mohammedai\s in the middle of the last century. English
and French missionaries reside at Tali and are available for
local information.
At Tali the road divides—the traveler for Burmah and
the west goes by the official road that leads to Bhamo and the
valley of the Irrawady, The road crosses the valleys of the
TIN MINES OE KOCHIN
313
Mekong, Salwen and Shiveli rivers and affords a comprehen*
sive insight into the the character of this little known, much
debatable frontier country. The time needed from Tali to
Bhamo is about twenty-five days. The chief towns on the
way are Yungchang and Tengyueh. At the latter are a
consul, customs house, and mission station. The road is
impossible during the rainy season.
From Tali to the northwest a road runs up to Batang in
the Tibetan marches of China. Time required between the
two cities approximately the same as to Bhamo.
The character of the country and people are quite dif-
ferent, however, both country and people being of a wilder
and less conventional type. The people are of a very hetero-
geneous character but are quiet and iricndly towards for-
eigners.
The Roman Catholic missions have some very strong
and well-developed stations on the way, where travelers are
made welcome and afforded such assistance as may be re-
quired.
Summary of routes :
Hong Kong to Yunnanfu : —
Steamer from Hong Kong to Haiphong 3 days
Haiphong to Yunnanfu by tail 3^2 ,»
Yunnanfu to Suifu by road 26 „
„ „ Talifu 25 „
Talifu to Bhamo in Burmah 25 „
Talifu fb Batang, Eastern Tibet 25 „
The Yunnan dollar and subsidiary coinage is available
all the way.
Passports are needed to enter China at Lao Kay. These
should be obtained at Canton or from Peking. Should the
traveler, however, find himself at the frontier without a pass-
port, a permit may be obtained from the Chinese official at
the border town of Ho Ksou— three minutes from Lao Kay.
The hotel or the Chinese customs official can give needed
directions how to procure this.
Tin Mines of Kochin — On the way from Lao Kay to
Yunnanfu the railroad passes within a few miles of the ccle-
314
HANDBOOK BOR CHINA
brated tin mines of Kochin. The mines are most easily
reached from Pe-she-tchai, a station on the railway near the
town of Mengtze. Ponies and chairs are obtainable through
the hotel keeper and are reasonable in rate. Two days
should be ample for the trip and inspection of the place. The
mines are situated in the mountains and carry on their opera-
tions by means of labor brought in from the surrounding
country. A large town has been built up adjacent to the
mines for the accommodation of those employed there.
The Swallow's Cave. — A second side trip that may be
taken on the way up by the railway is that to the Swallow’s
cave in Chi Kai. The break in the rail journey should be
made at A-mi-chou, the second night from Hanoi. It entails
a little journey inland from that point but the whole may be
accomplished in two days.
The cave is approached by a small footpath leading to a
very ordinary looking Chinese temple. Passing through the
temple and out by a side door, one is led into a weirdly
fantastic scene that reminds one of a built-up fairy land such
as one sees upon the stage.
Standing at the upper edge of a grotto one sees a swiftly
flowing river entering the cave from the north side and dis-
appearing in the gloom on the opposite side. A steep stone
staircase leads down to a terrace immediately above the river.
The limestone in the cave has been carved into lions, inscrip-
tions and various devices so dear to the Chinese heart, while
magnificent stalactites hang everywhere from th^ roof in
wavy ribbon-shaped forms and delicate tints of cream, pink
and yellow. The swallow’s have appropriated the cave for
their own uses and build their nests by the thousand in the
shelter of the cave.
<=^0^
IKEEX.
In fhe following index names of places and geographical
names are marked with * while names of persons are
marked f.
Abdication Edict, 93.
tAbeel, 74.
•Aberdeen, 288.
tAlopen, 73,
Altar of Earth, Peking, 223.
Altar of Heaven, Peking, 209.
Amahs, 15.
fAmaral, General Ferreira do,
297.
Ambassador’s Route, 168.
American Red Cross Society,
work of, 161.
fAmherst, Lord, mission to
China, 50, 108.
•A-m:-cliou, 311, 314,
*Amoy, 300-302.
Ampo Railway, 2G3.
Ancestral Worship, 70-71.
Anglo-Chinese Agreement, 40.
•Anhwei province, 1G4,
•Anking, lG3-iG4.
•Annam, 48.
Arabia, relations with, 72, 292,
296.
Architecture, 85-86.
Arrow War, 52-63.
Arts, 78-92.
Art Museum, Peking, 222.
Art, books on, 22-24.
Astronomy and Peking Obser-
vatory, 220-221.
tAttila, 46.
Austria, relations with, 69-60.
Baggage, 16-25.
•Batang, 190-191, 313.
Beamless Temple, Soochow, U7.
Bell Tower, Peking, 219.
•Bhamo, 311.
Big Bell Temple, Peking, 219-
220.
Black Pagoda, Foochow, 304.
•Bocca Tigris, 292.
•Bohea Hills, 304.
Books oil China, 20-24.
Botanical and zoological gar-
dens, Peking, 224.
Boxer outbreak, 58-00* 206, 255,
Brass work, 8, 112, 177, 207.
tBridgman, 74.
Brigands, 26.
Britain, relations with, 53-55,
67, 59-60, 104-105, 265, 271,
282, 286, 293.
Bronze Temple, Yunnanfu, 309.
Bronze work, 8, 81-85.
Bubbling Well Road, 109.
Buddha, 66-69.
Buddhism, G6-C9, 128-133, 47,
165.
''Buddhist Hell,” Tianfu, 27G.
tBurgevinc, 52.
Burniah, tribute, from, 48, route
to, 191, 311-312.
Calendar, 24-25.
•Cambulac, 73, 202,
tCamoens, 299.
Canals, 19.
Candareen (coin), 10, weight, 39.
♦Canton, 290-296.
Canton-Kowloon Railway, 290.
Carriage hire, 18.
Carving, 88-89.
11
INDEX, CONTINUED.
Oasli, 9.
CMy, 38-39.
Oiang^ (mcasuromeni), 40.
fClh'innr Chien, 159-lCO.
Chang Cliili-tung, 172.
i'CliuiigcliuT), 2o7-2r>8.
Changchuu-Kirin Railwaj’, 25^
258.
tChfiTig Ilsun, lOO, 212.
^Changsha, 175-178, IGl.
■fCliMTig Shin CJioiig, 144.
tCliang »Sbi Ilsin, 119.
iCl»img Tao-ling, 120.
*Ch:u).eliow-fu, 30G-307.
*Ohao lake, 1G4.
♦Chofop, 2G3.2C4.
*Chekiaag province, 125-142.
*ChenclK)w, 197-198.
Chen Dynasty, 4G.
""Chengcliow, 192.
tChong Hsien Chung, 49.
•Cheng, Blato of, 192.
Cheng Tai RailwJiy, 241.
•Choiigtcl), 178.
•Cliong-tiiig-fii, 192, 241.
•Chengtu, 18.5-187.
tCliia Ching. Emperor, 233, 235.
•Cliiamdo, 190.
Cilia, 1, Temple, Changsha, 17G.
tChien Tning, Emperor, 119, 124,
12G, 152, 215, 218, 220, 233,
2.35, 277.
tCi'ienLin, 117.
•Chieii Tang IJiver, IIC, 118,
127.
Ch'ihj (mcasiiTcnient), 40.
•Chihli province, 234.
•Chi Ka, 314.
*Chi-Kung Blian, 192.
Chin Dynasty, 44, 117, 201.
•Cliin, Kingdom of, 192.
ChiiK'SO Dollar, 12,
Chinese-Eastern Railway, 2i8,
256.
Chintse Govermnent Railways,
16.
Chinese names, 36.
Oitng, (inoasurcment), 40.
Ching-llan Railway, 192-193,
•Chiu-Ho River, 161, 187,
( bin-lau-tien, Palace, Moukden,
250.
•Ghing-tch-chen. 170-171, ICG,
1G8.
tCliing-tsong, Emporcr, 231.
•Ghin-wau-tao, 247-
)f tChing llwa, 80.
•Chingkiang, 151-153,
Chit, 12, 30.
Cliivalry, period of, 4G.
tChou Kun, 274,
fChou-sin, Emperor, 43.
tChow, Duke of, 43.
Christianity, 72-74.
Ohii, Kingdom of, 40, 173, 192,
tChnang Lich, Eraporor, 49.
•Chiifoii, 277.
tChung, Princo Regent, 01.
•Chungking, IGl, 184.
*Chung-tu, 201.
•Chiinsan island, 179.
•Chiisan archipcllago, 129, 134|
139.
•Chusan island, 138.
tChu Yuan, 176,
Climate, 6-7.
Cloisonne, 8, 90,
Clothing for travelers, 78.
Coal llill, Peking, 224.
•Cochin-China, 55.
Co-Iiong of Canton, 50, 293,
Coinage, 9-13,
tConfiiciiis, 270, hurial place,
277-79, Temple Vo, Peking, 217|
Great Temple, 278.
Confucianism, G9-70.
tCorvini, 73.
Curashaw, 30.
Customs House, 7.
•Dolney (Dairen), 258-259.
•Dawo, 190.
Dialects, 6.
District Magistrates, 95-97.
Dutch, relations with, 130, 133|
49.
•Derge, 190.
Devil Dance, Lama, 216,
Drum Tower, Nanking, 155j
Peking^ 219.
INDEX, CONTINUED,
111
Dynasties of China, Chin, 46,
Hnn, 46.4 G, Shaiig, 43, Yin,
43, Chow, 43, Tsi, 4G, Liang,
4r), Chon, 4G, Sui, 46, Tang,
46, Sung, 47, Yuan, 48,
Ming, 48, Ts4iig, 60, Manchu,
no-Gi.
E.isli'rn Toini'p, 23a.
Easiorn Tnr]a>t:iJi, 3.
E;»st luriiM (’oinpany, relations
willi, 60, 138.
East Ihvor, 293.
JClgiu’s inif^sion to Cliina, 63.
Lhiibioiihry, 90-91, 8, 177.
Enameling, 89.
Jjxami nation II:dls, Naiihing,
1.37, miiig, 221.
Exa m i na t i on?, olllo ial, 22 1 .
Exehango, 9-13.
JFaviifh: TCrt, 80-81.
Famillc ro-c, 82.
*Fati, 293.'
*Eongticn, (see Moukden), 218-
263.
yen<j Shui, 75-76.
tFoniando Peu-s do Andrade,
48-49.
*Feng Yang Ilnlor), 11“, l.''-7.
-T’eudal S3si< m in (Jji7ia, 4{;.
First Jtailway, 106.
File Tnv/ci^ kaneh:vng, 169.
F]ags1.-;ir, Unj,gkongr288.
’“FouehoM', l}02-3r).n.
Fooil and Di iiik, 27-28.
Foimcs's Lull'll in, 49.
‘‘Four Gicnt Kings, 08.
Foibiddtn City, Peking, 205.
France, relations with, 62-60,
105, 293.
Franciscans, 73-74.
fFu Hai, 42, 197, 238.
Fushun colliery, 253.
♦Fukien province, 306-30C.
♦Fulin, 191.
Geographical divisions, G.
Germany, relations with, 57, 69-
60,266,271,
Gilded Ball, Pagoda of. Nan-
chan g, 169.
♦Golden Mountain, 161-1.52.
. Golden Palace, Tiaiifii, 276.
I ♦Golden Eiver, ICI.
tOordon, General ‘‘Chinese/'
64, 245.
Government of China, 93-101.
tChengi.s Kiian, 4 7, 201.
♦Grand Canal, 246-24 7, 99, I.5I.
♦Great Lake (Ta llii), 115, 146,
149.
Groat Pagoda, S..,oi luuv, 145,
Anking. 163,
Great Wall, 41, 231, 256.
Guide:?, rati s, 26-27.
♦ITninan. 296, I'.OO.
♦iTaining, 1.36-137. ]>agO(la,
135-136.
♦Ilaiplioug, 3u7, 310.
♦l£:iiting. 302.
Jrakk.'us 296.
Hallof ('Ia.‘^''ie.S Cel ing*, 218-219.
Il-m Lyn.'isly, ■15.16, 2, 186, JIC.
11. in, Pj iiice ef. 45.
♦liaugghow, 116.-125, 115,4/.
♦llr.ai.-cuow 13 le, I!'. 1-137.
♦lianUew, 171-172. 160, <a{diiie
by 'Ik' s, 52, oiitbii:;!. <.l’
leuJui i. I', i 2, I /.3.
II;. nl litaii ll.' llw.'y, 172.
Ile.ui ’« K.i:g KalhvaVj 171.
♦ireias 310.
♦Ji.an ]?iver, 17M72, 161.
♦Jl.ariyang, 172-L.5, capluu* by
Taipings, 52, • utbieal; of
rc\«;Intion, 62, 170.
t Trail Yu, .306.
irarbin, 256-257.
tllait, t4ir Pubert, 107.
Heaven Invested Pagoda, Ning-
po, 138.
♦JleilungKi'ing province, 264.
*Ht‘ Lung Tan, 309.
♦Ilenshcng Mountain, 180.
♦Hengchou, 177.
♦Hienyang, 44.
“ Hill of a Thousand Buddhas/'
Tsinanfu, 269.
IV
niDBX, C0NTI3JUED.
♦Himalayas, 138.
History, books on, 21.
*fIo Ksoii, 313.
tllo Lu, Prince, 144.
♦Honan Province, 192. 197.
♦Hongkew, 104.
*Hongkong, 282-290, ceded to
Great Hritain, 61.
*Hongt8ze Lake, 164.
Hotels, rates, 26-26.
♦Hosliiguara (Star Beach),
259.
Houseboat trips, 114-115.
Ilsia Dynasty, 196.
tHsiao, Empress, 157.
♦HsiaKwan, 155, 168*
tHsieu Feng, Emperor, 62, 233,
235.
♦JTsing-ching, 249.
♦Ilsicn-ching Hsien, 192,
♦llsien-tion, 192.
*HsueIiowfii, 280.
tllsu Chin Yang, 168.
tHui Li, 122-123.
*I!iinan , province, 178-180.
♦Hui-li-chow, 191.
tllung Wu, Emperor, 48, 166,
157, 231, 237.
tllung-Chi, 80.
Huns, 40,
Hunting, 13-14.
tHung Hsio-chuen, 52.
♦llupeli province, 173.
Hutungs, 204.
♦flwang'llo (Yellow River),
270-271.
fHwaug-tl, Emperor, 42.
♦Hweicliow, 164,
♦Ichang, 161, 184.
♦Ichaug Gorge, 180-181.
Inns, Chinese, 25-26.
India, relations with, 122-124,
67, 127, 129.
Industries in China, 78-92.
Ink Pagoda, Soochow, 146.
Iron Pagoda, Kaifeng, 194.
Islam in China, 72.
Italy, relations with, 59-60.
Ivory ca*^ng, 8, 88.
Jade, 88-89, 308.
♦Jaochou River, 170,
Japan, relations with, 65-60, 122,
130, 2C1, 2G4, 267.
♦Jehol, 234.
♦Jen-tsu-shan, Mount Aarat
of China,” 242.
♦Jessfield, 115.
Jesuits, 112, 200.
Jewelry, 89-90.
Jews in China, 194-195, 118,
237.
Jinriesha, 17.
tJoha of Monte Corvino, 73.
Kachyns, tribe, 189.
♦Kaifeng, 192-195, 47.
Kaifeng-Honaii Railway, 193,
197.
♦Kai-lung river, IGl.
♦Kalgan, 233.
Kalgan Railway, 231.
fKang Hsi, Emperor, 119, 124,
126, 145, 152, 227, 233, 235.
•Kan River, 168, 169.
♦Kantze, 190.
♦Kanluslian, 151.
♦Kansu province, 4, 189.
♦Kao-pci-ticji, 192, 232.
tKao-tsong, Emperor, 40.
tKottelor, Baron von, 59.
♦Ke Lo Feng, 177.
♦Khanbalik, Peking, 201.
♦Riuling River, 184, 187,
♦Kiangka, 190.
♦Kiangpeh, 184.
♦Kiangsi province, 170.
♦Kiangsu province, 159.
♦Kiaochow, (Tsingtao), 266-267,
57.
•Kiatingfu, 187-188.
♦Kieneh*ang valley, 188, 191.
tKic, Emperor, 43.
King of Chala, 190.
♦Kirin, 264,
♦Kiukiaug, 165-166, 162.
♦Kochin, 314.
♦Kolongsu, 301-302.
Koran in China, 72.
Korea, relations with, 47, 65*
INDEX, CONTINUED.
tKowloou, 290, ceded to Britain,
B3.
tKoxinga, 154, 301.
tKiiang Hsu, Emperor, 122, 222,
233.
Kuan Ti (God of War), 68.
Kuan Yin (Goddess of Mercy),
69.
*Kuan Li-pii, 193.
fKublai Khan, 47-48, 201, 220.
♦Kuling, 166-168.
*Kuliaiig, 304.
*Kuin-chiick, 300.
fKung, Duke of, 277.
♦KunshaD, 160.
*Kung-tan river, 161.
‘‘Kwangsi province, 4.
♦Kweifu, 180.
*Kweitohfu, 196.
^Kweichow province, 4.
•Kwangcliovvinan, ceded to
Franco, 07.
♦Kwangtuiig Province, 293-294.
tKwang Hsu, Emperor, 56.
Lace making, 90, Chefoo, 264.
Lacquer, 91-92, 139, 304.
*Ladrones, 283, 288.
♦Lao Kay, 310.
Laws and Passports, 35.
tLaotsze, 64-66, 43.
Lamaism, 214-215.
tLanchowfu,^41.
Lama tempies, Peking, 213-217.
♦Lamaya, 190.
♦Leang-hsiang Hsien, 192.
Legation Quarter, Peking, 207-
209.
♦Lhassa, 189, 191.
ii, weight, 39, Chinese mile,
40.
weight, 39.
Liang Dynasty, 46, 158.
♦Liaotung Pcninsala, 49,
♦Liaoyang, 260.
tLi Hung Chang, 62, 64i
lAcheea, 28.
Likin^ 7.
Ling-yin, Monastery, of Hang-
chow, 122-123.
♦Lint^ung Hsien, 238.
tLi Yuan Hung, 62.
tLi Tai-po, 1G2.
tLi Pu, 1C7.
tLi Ping, 185.
tLi Tzu Cheng, 49, 198it
♦Litang, 190.
♦Liou-li-ho, 192.
Living Buddhn, 213.
♦Loess Plain, 240.
♦Lobo Valley. 197.
♦Lolo, tribe. 188, 192, 307.
Loongwha Pagoda, Shaiighaii
116.
♦Lowu, 290.
♦Lung Lu Shan, 66.
♦Lung Men Channel, 190.
♦Lushau, mountain, J65.
♦Lushun (Port Arthur), 261-263,
♦Lu, State of, 273.
♦Macao, 297.299.
tMaeCartney, Lord, mission to
China, 50, 108. 235.
Mace (coin), 10, w’cight, 39.
Manners and Customs, books on,
21.
Mantszp, tribe, 188.
3fafoo, 18.
♦Manchuria. 253-256, 60-61.
MangoeSj 28.
Manchus, rise to power, 49-50,
massacres of, 62.
Manchu Dynasty, 50-61, 203,
249.
Maitreyo, Buddhist Messiah, 68,
imago of, Peking, 215.
tMarco, Polo, 1,48, 73, 118, 123,
162-153.
Maritime Customs, 8.
Measures, Chinese, 38.
♦Mciling Pass, 169.
♦Mekong Valley, 313.
•Meiigtze, 311. 314.
tMenciuP, 43-49, 279- 281, 70,
279.
Mexican dollars, 5, 11-13.
Miaotze Tribes, 307.
Ming Dynasty, 48, 189, 193,
202.
INDEX, CONTINUED,
: VI
•Mingan Pass, 303.
Milo Fo (Buddhist God), 68.
74.
Ming Toiiihs, Nanking, luS-l.'i?,
P(;kirg, 229,
Kingdom of, 304.
•Mill Paver, 302-304. 161, 186,
187.
MiPsionnTy work, books on, 22,
operations, 73-74.
Mohaiiiedaiiisni, 71-72, 125, 186,
200, 237, .308.
Mohrimedan Mosques, 225.
•Mukc^^linn, 113.
IMonastcry of Benevolence,
Kiukiaiig, 105,
IMoiicy, 0-13.
MoiK'y (’hangers, 12-13.
•iMongolin, .3.
Mongols, 47-48.
Mongol Byiiasty, 47-48.
IMonunn iils, 85-86.
•aMoriuinerit Hill, Port Arthur,
262.
ti^forrisi'n, P(d>ort, 74, 299,
Motor (’ais, hire of, 18,
•aMoukdfiJ, 218-53.
IM- iikd' ii-Aiifiing Pailw.ny, 248.
t^foiile, ArelidejU'on, 13S.
•JMonnf, L‘’r.sdowTie, 265.
•xMoiiiit Ccschon, 265,
•Mount Onii, 187,
•i\Iouiit Mao Donald. 265.
Jlfni/j'. (’lii/iif-o noro, 40-11.
•AIu Lin Meiintain, 102.
•Nanclia I'lg, 1 68-163.
•Nanking, 1.53-153, 17, treaty of
r>l, 101, 233.
•Na nkow. 223-232.
•Nantai Island, 303.
•Nan Ting Cliow, 178.
• N: 1 n I u ngo 1 ; o w, 153-1 60.
•Nan Yo Mountain, 180.
•National Museum, Peking,
222.
Needle Pagoda, Hangchow, 117,
121.
Ncstoriars, 72-73, 2371 233.
•Ncwchwang, 263.
•Nine Lotus Flower Mountaint
163.
•Ningchow, 170.
•Ningpo, 137-142.
•Ningyuanfn, 191.
Noah, 138, 243.
North Tomb, Moukdon, 251.
No 8ii Tribe, 188, 131.
tNurhschu, 43. 254, Palace of,
250, tomb of, Moukden, 252.
tOdoric, Friar, 118.’
fOgotai, 47.
•Omi, Mount, 187.
•Ox)ium War, 51.
Pagodas, 301, 163, 145, 163, 138,
116,121.131,151-1 55, 14 0, 304.
•pagoda Hill, 263, Island, 303.
Paifown, 86.
Painting, 83-81.
•Pao-ting-fn, 132, 241.
•Pno-shnn. 116.
tParl-Ts, Hir Harry, 107.
Parljarn<'i!t, 33.
Pnsspruts, 35.
•jVail River, 230.
•Pei ( 'hi r, 300.
•JVi (’hihlj, gnli; of, 247,
•Peiho R’i.rr, 244.
•JVi Lin, 238.
•JMlail.e., 217.
•jVl.iiig. 133-233. ..
Peking-Jlankow Knihvny, 192'>
193.
Peking-jMoukden Pailwny, 243,
Peking-lvalgau Kailway, 223,
231.
•Pongpn, 272.
Persia, relations with, 200,
Persimmors, Chinese, 28.
•Pe-she-telua, 314.
•Pescadores, 56.
•Phocnix Hill, Hangchow, 117,
tPhn Hs', 168.
Picuf, weight, 38-39.
Pidgin English, 28-32,
Piau Liang, 193.
•Pillar of Heaven, Yangtsze
Gorges, 181.
INDEX, CONTINUED.
VII
PingliSidiig colliary, 170, 173.
^Pinelioii, 248.
Pirates, 26.
Political relatious, boolta on,
LM _2.
'*'Pootoo, Sacrc<l island of,
] 28-133.
Population, by provinoos, 4.
Porcelain, 78-83, ICC, 170.
♦Pokfolum, 289.
Poit'clain Pagoda, Nanking,
ir.4-l.-5.
*Port Arthur, 2G1-2G3, leased by
Pussia, 57, taken by Japan,
<)0.
Portugoso traders, 137-138, 297-
299, 48, 301.
T’oslotlicos, 35-3(>.
tPot Unger, Sir Henry, 51.
'^Puyang Jjako, 168-1(59.
^Praia CJraTid(\ 298.
Pnviuus Slono Tea House,
Nanking, 157.
Pii llsioii, (God of Goodness), C9.
*Pukow, 158-159, 281.
tPu Yi, Emperor, Gl.
Queues, origin of, 49.
Railways, Ampo, 263, Canton-
K(^\^■loon, 290, Changchun-
Kirin, 250, 258, Chong Tai,
241, Chim se-Eastcrn,248, 25G,
Chiiicso Gi^verninent, 1('., First,
lOG, KaiTeiig-lIonan, 193,
197, iMoukden-Antung, 248,
Peking - Hankow. 192-193,
Pek i ng' M o iik de n , 24 3, Pek ing-
Kalgan, 229, 231, Shanghai-
Nanking, 142-143, Shanghai-
Hangcliow, 103, IIG, South
Manchuria, 259-2G1, Tonking-
Yunnait, 307, Tientsin-Pukow,
271-272, Wuchang-Changsha,
175.
Painfall, 7.
Bams, City of, Canton^ 291.
Eebellions, 26.
•Bed Basin, 187.
Eeference Books on China, 22-24^
Bcligions of China, 64-77, books
on, 22.
Kepiibliean revoluti07i, 61-63.
tUieoi, Matteo, 73, 191.
fRiehtofen, Baron, 240,
ifieshas, 17.
Roads, 20.
BoinaiiCkitiiolies, 73-74, 112, 143,
Romo, relations witli, 190.
Routes and fine-!, 32-35.
Russia, ndaf'oes witii, 5!).GO, 57,
2r, 1-262. 248-219, 255, 259, 263.
Rugs, Tientsin, 207.
Russo-JapaiK’s(^ X'k'ar, 24 8-219,
2G1-2G2, 60, 255, 259, 203.
•Salweti River, 313.
•Saiushui, 30(>’
Sang do JloeuJ,
•Sau-ha-pu, 30(;.
Satan, origin of, 3o2,
tSehall, 73.
Sedan chair liire, 18,
Sorvant.s, 1 4-1(5.
♦SliaUoJUver, 192.
Shakyamuni, ((Jliiiie.se name for
Buddlia5, GO.
•Shamcen, 293.
fShan, Emperor, 217.
i'Sliang, Ihinee of, 43.
Shaiig Dynasty, 43, 190.
♦Shanghai, 102-110.
Shangha i - N ankitig Railway,'
103, 142-143.
Shangliai-Hangeliow Railway^
103, 11(5.
Shaiig-ta, (Ruler of Ib'avcii), 210,
♦Sl»nn-hai-k\vaii, 25(>,
♦Shansi province, 4.
♦Slum Sliing Kung, GO.
♦Shantung piuvinc<‘, 273-274.
♦Shasi, 161.
♦Shaohiiig, 12G-128.
tShau-hau, Emperor, 279.
•Shengking, 254.
tSbeii IS'uug, Emperor, 42, 197,
212.
♦Shensi province, 239,
tShih Eraperor, 44,
218, 237, 238, 274.
Tilt
INBEZ,
OZD,
Shimonoseki, treaty of, 67,
•Shiveli Biver, 313.
Shoppinj?, 8-9, Shanghai, 111-
112, Peking, 206-207.
•Shu, Kingdom of, 186.
tShun, Emperor, 42-43, 128, 138,
180, 2C7, 274.
tShuh Chio, Emperor, 119, 223.
•Shwang-ho Shan, 196.
♦Sianfu, 236, 44-46.
•Siring Kiver, 176,177.
•Siang-tan, 176.
Sifau Tribes, 188.
•Siccawei, 112.
Silk, 86-87, 8, 149, 160, 166,
<Jhefoo, 264.
•Silver Island Pass, 161.
Silverware, 166.
Sing-song girls, 148.
•Sin-ticn, 192.
•Small River, 261.
Small Money, 12.
•Soochow, 143-149, 116.
'*Son8 of Han,” 46.
South Manchuria Railway,
269-261.
South Gate Pagoda, Soochow,
145.
‘^Squeeze,'' 8, 16.
''Son of Heaven,” 209.
•Ssu mao, 311.
•star Beach, 261,
Shipa^ 86.
tSuen Te, Emperor, 80,
Sui Dynasty, 46.
•Suifu, 161, 312,
Summer Palace, Peking, 227,
•Sungari Mountains, 2M,
Sung Dynasty, 47, 193.
•Sungkiang, 114.
•Sung Shan, 196.
tSim Yat Sen, 24, 62-63.
Superstitions, 76-77.
•Swnllow^s Cave, 314.
Swatow, 306.
Syeeey coinage, 11.
Szechuan province, 187-189.
Tati, weight, 9-10.
•Ta Hu Lake, 116, 146, 149,
•Taianfu; 276-276.
•Taikeng, 196.
Tai Miao, Temple, Taianfu,
276.
•Tai Shan, 274-277.
tTai'tsung, Emperor, 46.
Taiping Rebellion, 62-54, 14C,
164. *
Taipo, 94.
•Taiyuanfu, 192, 241, 275.
•Taku Forts, 246,
•Takhing, 300.
•Talifu, 191, 311, 312.
Tan, 39.
Tang Dynasty, 46, 197, 237.
tTang Emperor, 43.
•Tangho, 247.
•fTang Shao-yi, 62-63.
•Tapt’u, 151.
Taoism, 64-66.
Taoiai, 95-97.
Tao Teh King, 66.
tTao ICuaag, Emperor, 233.
Tartars, 47. 201, 264.
•Tatsicniii, 18§, 189-191.
•Tayeh, 173,
•Tclicng Ting Fou, 241.
Telegrams, 35-36.
TempUs, 223, 209, 219-220, 309,
176, 217, 278, 213-217, 276,
212-213, 209-212, 226, 269.
Templo of Agriculture, Peking,
212-213.
Temple of the Dragon^s Cave,
Tsinanfii, 269.
Templo of Heaven, Peking,
209-212.
•Templo Peak, 266.
•Tengyuch, 313.
Theaters, 113-114.
Three Aboriginal Tribes, King-
dom of, 179-
Three Traitors, the, 46.
Three Kingdoms, tho 46, 186.
Thunder Peak Pagoda, Hang-
chow, 121.
•Tibet, 189-191, 161, 312.
•Tiolili2%, 260.
•Tientsin, 244-246.
•Tien Hsi Miao, 261.
INDEX. COST^y
'iontsin-Pukow Railway, 271-
272.
'igcr Hill Pagoda, SoocLow,
146.
rips, 26-30.
*Ti Wang Miao, 2‘>*'-
*'!^Jonking, “o.
Tonkin^- 1 unnan Railway, 307.
Tiansportation, 16-20.
Travel, cost of, 5.
Treaty Ports, 36-33, history of,
61, 63, 67.
fTsao Tsao, 46.
tTseng Kuo Fob, 180.
Tsi Dynasty, 46.
♦Tsiuanfu, 267-270.
*Tsingliug Mountains, 239.
•Tsiugtaii, 26G-2G7, leased to
Ch-riufins, 57.
*T.sin, Duke of, 44.
Tsin Dynasty, 44, 197.
•Tsowhsion, 279-281.
tTszo llsi, Empress Dowager,
64-55.
fTung Cho, 46.
*Tungclinw, 233,
tTung-ehi, Emperor, 54, 233.
•Tung Kuan, 197.
•Tung Wen Kou, 169.
•Tungtiiig lake, 161, 177, 178.
Tungusic Tribes, 254.
Two Pen Pagodas, Sooefaow, 146.
Typhoons, 7.
United States, relations with,
62, 55, 59-60, 105, 248, 293,299.
♦Urga, 231, 234. .
Venice of the Far East,” 144.
fVerbicst, 73, 220.
Viceroy, 94-98.
•Victoria, 287.
tWang Mang, 46.
•Wanhsien, 183.
fWard, General Frederick, 52,
64, 114.
•Wau, Kingdom of, 16|.
tWeddell, Captain, 50.
Weights and measures, 38-41.
•Wei-Uai-we'', 264-266, leased to
57.
♦m;!, Ivingdom of, 46, 192.
nVei River, 239.
Wenehu, (God of Wisdom), 69,
•Well Ho River, 275.
•West Lake, Hangchow. 124*
125, 115.
♦West River. 299.300.
Wesh'ru Tombs, 232,
•Whampao, 292.
•Wliangpoo River, 106.
White Doct Grotto, l\uling, 167.
White Cloud Mountians, 293.
W'hite Pagoda, Foochow. 301.
Willow Pattern Tea House,
Shanghai, HI.
♦Woosung, 106, 1 16.
♦Wong.shi.kong, 173.
•Wuchang, 171-175.
Wucdiang-Chaugsha Railway ,
175.
♦Wurhowfu, 300.
•Wu*Hau Cities, (Uaiikow,
‘Hanyang and Wuchang), 171.-
175.
•Wuhu, 102-163, 160.
fWu Hou, Empress, 46.
♦Wu, Kingdom of, 46, 144, 163,
173.
fWu .Tui, Prince, 176.
•Wuning Valley, 170.
fWu Sen Kwei, General, 46, 256.
♦Wusili, 149.151.
♦Wii-tai-sluin, (Sacred moun-
tain), 241, 243.
fWu Ting-fang, 62.
fWu Tsc-tien Empress, 238.
fWuti, Emperor, 158.
fWu-lfaung Empc’’or, 47.
fWu-wang, Emperor, 43.
tWu-yueh, Kings, 117.
jXavier, St. Francis, 73.
•Yaugchow, 151, 153.
fYang Su, 117.
♦Yanglszo Gorges, 180.183,
•Yangtsze River, 160-162.
tYao, Emperor, 42-43. 180.
CONTi.NtED.
•|-Y('1ioiiola, Einprobc. Dowager,
Yf iKnv lilvor, 270-271, 1C4,
Di;?, Ili5, no, 23iK
Yellow T(mpl(', P' 220.
*yrn-t'hcTig Ilsioii, 192.
^ V('7i(‘liowi'u, 127, 201.
Kiiigclom of, 201.
*Y(‘n II si hihar, 242.
* Vreiiyuenbsicn, 191.
"Yiiikow. 203.
Yin Dyiiristy, 43.
*Vo(‘lnAV, l(il, 179.
*V»)ln Slinii, 177.
•f Yu, Empeior, 43, 117, 128, 13»,
196, 267.
lYucn-feu, 86.
*^--'-slii-bsieu, 191.
•Yuncu..,,,^ 31:j.
‘Yungcbfiug, 013,
tYung Clieiig, 130, lai. 213, 233,
23.'.
♦Yung River, 138.
tYun<r Lo, Emperor, 80, 1^3,
15.5, 201, '219, 230.
•Yimuan province, 807,313.
♦Yunnanfn, 308-309, 191
•Yuvao. 128, 138.
♦Zalikow, 131.
•Zayton, 302,
915.l'(UO
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